Electronic EGR problems - Fixed and explained
 

Hey guys. I got a problem with my 7th gen. I am positive its the EGR valve, or something that got to do with the system, because the car bucking at cruising RPM was eliminated when I unplugged the EGR unit.

I cleaned the system out with throttle cleaner but the problem still exists. It was filthy btw.

Now im convinced that the pintle isnt even opening when it should be. Solenoid problem or computer problem? Anyways. Does anybody know how to test the EGR unit? Like take it apart put some current throught it and test if the pintle opens and closes when it should.

Can someone point me in the right direction on how to perform these tests? I would hate to buy a new EGR valve only to find out it isnt the problem. Its $250CDN :eek:

Re: Electronic EGR problems - help test
 

Somebody? :confused:

Re: Electronic EGR problems - help test
 

Possible cat failure?

Too much back pressure?

I only threw a P0300 code.
Random misfire

SO CONFUSEDDDDD.........:confused:

Re: Electronic EGR problems - help test
 

i think something might be causing it not to open. perhaps the ecu isnt getting proper signals, what year is your car? 01? is the problem consistent or does it come and go?

Re: Electronic EGR problems - help test
 

Happens constantly. Everytime. It doesn't fail. Its so bad I can get it going on command like a obidient dog.

Changed the cat(it to was filthy). VERY noticeable improvement. But yup...sure enough still there.

HELP!

Re: Electronic EGR problems - help test
 

The thing is the problem only occurs when the cars opperating with a load. So I can't reproduce it in the shop.

Sigh.

Re: Electronic EGR problems - help test
 

I don't think it is the EGR. I have blocked mine off before and I felt not diff. So I put it back but I did run without it for about a month.

Re: Electronic EGR problems - help test
 

If everything was so filthy, that tells me that you are running rich. What do your plugs look like and where do you buy your gas? If the plugs are bad, I recomend a plug change. Also run a can of SEAFOAM threw it and start buying your petrol at a reputable station.

I only buy gas from EXXON, MOBILE or SHELL. That is all, no exceptions, I also run 89. I know that our cars don't need 89 but when you buy gas from the three I mentioned you get some additives in the 89+ octains. That is why I run it. I also run a can of B12 Chemtool threw the fuel system every oil change.

Re: Electronic EGR problems - help test
 

I live in Canada. Surfur rich gasoline in all grades. Our gas sucks.

Update: Certainly wasnt the EGR valve. I swapped it with another and it didnt improve.

So I'm thinking now its a clogged EGR or poor signal or messed up ECU.
also
When I put the 12 volt voltage tester to the plug with the car on but not started. I got a current on only one pin. and the one pin with current isn't putting too much through. It lights up my light only half compared to say the ignition current or the battery.

Can someone test theres and see if they get the same result.

Much help appreciated and I thank you in advance.

Need to pass emissions, lol

Re: Electronic EGR problems - help test
 

UPDATE: It was the Catalytic Converter

THE CAR: 2001 civic si(canada)/ex(US). 270k kms. miles(i dunno)

FIRST DIAGNOSTIC: The only code threw was P0300 Random misfire. So i didnt have much to play with

ISSUE: The car drives like crap at cruising RPM in every gear. Whenever egr opens its pintle to let hot exhaust gas air back into the chambers for a more through cleaner burn out your tailpipe. Its symptoms are jerking and bucking violently around 2000-2500 RPM. And will occur more violently when staying in that RPM with a steady foot. Diagnosing the problem in a shop is impossible since the EGR opens only under load.

THE FIX: Cat converter. The shop found out that it was indeed the excessive back pressure due to a plugged cat that was producing these symptoms.

THE REASON: Our EGR are electronic. It has a sensor. Its electronically monitored by the ECU and is constantly adjusting itself. He found out that by monitoring the EGR desired and EGR actual positions moved further and further apart when the surge became more and more violent. At idle and WOT the EGR actual and EGR desired matched perfectly. He also said since it can't be reproduced in the shop and only under load, we are most likely looking at excessive backpressure messing with the sensors. So we changed the cat. Apparently this should fix the problem he says. When it took it out the garage, problem still there. :(

The reason why I didnt pick it up right after the shop and thought the problem was still there was becasue I forgot to reset the ECU and at this point the ECU was still learning the new setup and the new flow adjusting itself accordinly. After a day, problem all gone. And never came back and I passed emmisions today :) So happy.

So if anybody ever has this problem. Take a look at this possiblity first. I went to many mechanics and some told me its blocked and they have to tear the whole motor apart to clean the passage ways blah blah. All mechanics told me it was a MAJOR fix.

Re: Electronic EGR problems - help test
 

Oh ya....what I got was an exhasut twice as loud as I got the car back on the road. I switched OEM cat with a brand spanking new Magna Flow high flow. Clogged dirty OEM small cat converter < Highflow clean Magna Flow bigger cat converter = more noise. I hate it. O well