too much oil
 

hey i just did my first oils change on my 2001 honda civic lx.
changed everything over to mobile 1 syn. anyways I'm so used to putting 8quarts in my olds race motor and 5 quarts in my ford that i didn't even think about it, and put 4 quarts mobile 1 syn and 1 quart lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer:_doh: :_doh: . on the v8's the crank will just dip into the oil and cause airation. is it bad for my 1.7 .
thanks in advance

yeah, lx takes 3.4 quarts (or liters, im not quite sure off the top of my head). liters and quarts are close anyways.

well you need to remove that 1 1/2 quart or so of extra oil you added. Overfilling the oil on any vehicle will cause problems.

is it even a good idea to use that lucas stabilizer?

any body else have an opinion on lucas

Here's one person's opinion on the stuff. I wouldn't touch the stuff at all in my car.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

worst pictures ever. damn that guy sucks at the internet

Beat me to it :lol:

that transmission stuff worked on my tahoe for about three days

And in that three days, did you sell it? :lol:

i suggest draining it into an oil pan and keep it in case you then underfill.

but you have got to be shittin me about the first oil change for an 2001 civic?

i think its the first one he personally has done on the car

makes me laugh about all these "old timer's" that come in to my shop with their loud and knocking engines, in their f-series and GM trucks and tell me how they've used Lucas for 10-20 years and never had a problem...then I ask them was your truck always this loud? and they tell me no...why? "no reason...I'm just curious..." hehe

My opinion: Don't put enithing in the oil!
Do you think you can improve your aftershave puting some crap on it?

As for the oil quantity. Yes, drain it out and put the 3.4 qt (DX or LX) or 3.7 qt (EX, HX). Put firs 3 qt and then slowly add and chack the level couple of times.


I have a PDF version of the Users guide for Honda Civic 2001 if anybody is interested.

i would ONLY use www.lubecontrol.com products in the car.

hey
 

yes i just bought the car 01 with 125k on it. still runs super smooth, but i guess thats just honda:rockon: it is the first oil change since i bought the car. i will just drain it all out and replace with 3.4 qts of mobile 1 syn. does the lube LC20 and FP60 help out at all??? who all is using, and what did you notice???
thanks again

I use FP60 all the time, gives me about 2MPG in my truck and 3-4 MPG better in my 06 Civic. When I had my '03, I got some improvment too. LC 20 isn't bad, but I didn't notice that much difference when using it, so I never bought any more.

As for your oil choice, Mobile 1 is good, but there are better buys out there. For any car that has more than 60k, I suggest using Valvoline Max Life. It contains 5 wt% moly, which is an excellent anti-ware addative for higher milage cars. It is also about 25% synthetic, which is high than almost any oil. And at a price of $12 for a 5 quart jug at Walmart, it is far more economical than Mobile 1 and probably protects just as well if not better.

Congrats on the new car!

it helps alot if you use both all the time. tons more gas mileage and smoother engine. i'm gonna start using some different oil next time. is castrol syntec fine since they have 5w20 full syn? and can i put lubecontrol in it?

no one near me sells syntec 5w20....and have any tests been done with the MaxLife synthetic? is it the same moly count as the regular max life?


Gearbox....why wouldn't you be able to use Lc in it?

all i know is the castrol commercial was pretty convincing. ..no other oil gives more horsepower haha. but ya i'm not sure if lc was made for synthetic or if there is even any need to use it due to the properties of the synthetic oil.

its wierd how some cars take fewer or a bit more oil cause usually all civics take 3.25 quarts of oil and i noe cause i work at goodyear doin oilchanges. many 2001-2005 civics come in nd it doesnt matter if its an lx,dx, or ex cause they all took 3.25 but then again thats with a oil gun not bottle so i guess they could b off. o well

the dealer here just fills it to the low mark. I guess thats enough for the motor to work even tho i gave them 4 quarts. I bet there's a bottle back there with my name on it.

not anymore....betcha they made the noobie techs do shots from it hehe

where i work if you provide the oil, watever we have left after we are done with the oil change, we just give it back unless you dont want it back or we just decided to just use it all....

hey gearbox that sounds almost similar to when my friend did oil changes when he used to work at the lincoln dealership. they would actually overfill cause they think its better than being under. thank god i dont have a lincoln nor would want one in the first place

gearbox, i normally use mobil 1, but since walmart ran out on the shelvs, i went with castrol fully syntheic oil and ran perfectly fine in my car. i really didnt notice anything diff compared to oridnary mobil 1.

since you're gonna change the oil again, might as well claim that you "flushed" the engine oil lol

My opinion: don't put any aftermarket compound in synthetic oils. They are well manufactured and with optimum chemicals.
Today’s oils are pretty good. So the differences between them can be measured by dyno only.
Synthetic oil last longer, but if you think to change at regular intervals then any middle quality oil is good. Stick to the 5W20 as much as possible one grade up and down (eg. 5W30, 0W20) is tolerable but better to use the type indicated by Honda.
My suggestion: cheap oil -> change it after 3000 mi
mid range oil -> change it after 5000 mi
upper class -> change it after 5000 and 7000 mi.
When your vehicle is operated in severe condition (freezing or high temperature, race etc) the changing interval is lower.
For gas use time-to-time some "gas treatment" (eg. FP60 or other). Basically you can get about 2-4 MPG mor with gas treatment. But the benefit is not this 2-4 MPG. This 2-4 MPG at a full tank is about 1 gallon or so, which give you $2.3 saving but you need to extract the "gas treatment" price. So, where you are? Basically the gas treatment is good for the injectors and valves to keep them clean, and avoid slug build up. Using it time to time instead of every tank may save you some green. Using it once a month I think is ok. If you use some good gas, that contains already additives then you don’t need to put anything on it. But is better for you pocket if you stick to 87 grade gas and put fuel treatment (~$1 for one thank) then spending $3-4 more for treated gas. Exception if you use nitrous then you need higher-octane fuel for reason you people know.
Did you guys notice that usually I send larger comments? The bad think is that the no. of post change your status and not the length of the comment! :(
Well I will try to post soon just:
Yep.
:)
etc.

That, I don't know. I have only used the normal syn blend stuff, I go about 4-5k miles on this (depedning on temp and driving conditions and all that). But anyway, I persoanlly would not waste money on synthetics. The idea that synthetics are the BEST oil is kind of old, it comes from when there was a HUGE difference in dino versus syn. 15-20 years ago there was a big difference in dino versus syn addatives, today this is not the case, a good dino and blend oil like MaxLife all pretty much have very good addatives. If you want to use synthetic, go for it. It won't hurt your car, just there is no major reason to do so IMO.

If you have high enough miles, you could switch to a 5w30 if they don't have anything else. Reason being that after a high number of miles, the rings and bearing and all that get worn, and the thicker oil won't hurt them or deprive them as much as when the car is new. Think of a cave (that's a the rings and bearings) and a person going in. If the cave is small, only small people can get in but if you start chipping away the enterance, bigger people can get in, hence a bigger oil is okay.

Actually LC20 shines with synthetic oils. The purpose of the stuff is to add the addtives back to the oil. Most addatives burn off around 4-5k miles (synthetic or dino) and as a result you are left with just oil. Plain old oil is bad because it does not have the antiware addtives, defoming, but worst of all it can no longer ssupend carbon. So you end up devolping sludge and huge carbon deposites. If you use a synthetic oil, and go say 10,000 miles, you are constantly adding addatives in with the LC20, hence you can go super long between oill changes (read Really good for truckers). dino oils can not go this longthough, so it is a moot point with dino oils.

It's not the size, it's the content that important. Don't worry about post counts, the regualars know who you are and most of respect your opinion without huge post counts.

:) Thanks :rofl: