Nitrous FAQ #1

Well, any Strong MOD on a car can be dangerous, but n2o is just as safe as a turbo and a supercharger as long as you use your brain and don’t over due it.

A n2o wet kit is when the n2o is activated and spraying, the system sprays a matching amount of fuel through the nozzle with the n2o to give a “more accurate shot”.

A n2o dry kit is when the n2o is activated and spraying, the system uses a vacuum to adjust the fuel pressure and use the cars injectors to spray the fuel accordingly.

If you are going to run a 50-65 dry shot, it is not required but it is recommended, that you get these mods:
1. New plugs NGK BKR7E
2. Fuel pressure regulator
3. New clutch. Yours will die after a little while.

If you are going to run a 65-80 dry shot, it is highly recommended that you get these mods in addition to the previous mods:
1. New fuel pump. Walbro makes a good one “Walbro 255L/h Fuel Pump”
2. Some sort of device to retard the timing automatically. Helps your car run better. MSD BTM or the MSD Dig 6+
3. Motor mount inserts. Needed to keep the car from hopping when n2o kicks in.

1. New plugs NGK BKR7E
2. FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator)
3. New clutch
4. Fuel pump
5. Motor mount inserts

This question is under very high debate right now so I will post one answer.
The common answer is to retard the timing 2 degrees for every 50hp shot of n2o.
But most people have not retarded their timing untill a 75 shot and then only retarded it 1 degree. They feel you should not have to untill at least 100hp shot. This is also the way I feel. Zex has a dramatic retard change. NOS does not?
Zex™ Kit (#82011)
55hp 65hp 75hp
Nitrous Jet 32 35 38
Fuel Jet 36 34 32
Ignition Retard 0° 2° 4°

This depends on what you want to do? If you are going to run less then 70-75 then dry would be best for you. It is perfectly stable and easier to install. But, if you are going higher than 75 you might want to try a wet shot since the wet does manage the fuel better when spraying.

Most bottles hold 10 pounds of N²0. The price varies according to where you live. Dave pays about $3.33 a pound here in Panama City, Florida. That’s because there’s limited supply. You may get a better deal in bigger cities where there is an N²0 Dealer competition. In Orlando, Florida I pay anywhere from 2.50 a pound where they freeze the tank for a day, to 3.50 a pound where they pump the gas in.

A window switch is a device that, when the power to the n2o is activated and the car is a WOT it will only let the n2o actually fire in the range that you specified with the switch. You change this with pills that set the rpm range.

Example: you insert a 5000pill and a 7500pill you floor the car when you reach 5000 rpm the n2o will spray till you hit 7500rpm then the n2o will turn off.

Is the window switch needed? It depends on how paranoid you are. Most people do not think it is worth the hassle to install the switch, but if you are running a chipped ECU, I would actually recommend it due to the higher rev limit.

Well that depends on what you are going to do? If you are going to do a dry shot, do not go higher then 75, due to the restricted fuel flow you will be experiencing. If you are going to a wet shot, then max I would say is 100 shot with all the upgraded mod items.

Everyones' cars are different so this is just a hard question to answer it is best to start with a small shot and keep checking the engine to see if you have any damage and slowly upgrade.

If your motor blows don't try to hide the damage. Any experienced tech can tell if you had a major mod.

Well that all depends on you. You can't rely on your car to be the sole thing to beat another car. Everything is up to the driver. You can have a very fast car and still lose to a slow car with a good driver.

You can install n2o in ANY car you want all you need to do is figure out what type of kit you want and convert it to fit your car.

NO, a purge kit is not needed. A purge kit just removes the dead air in the line. It saves you about .1 of a sec off your time, and the amount of n2o that gets sprayed out with the air could be used for another pass down the track. You blow about $1.50-2.50 each time you purge.
Yes, any purge kit you get can be hooked up to any n2o kit you have.

Yes, it is a great thing to get a n2o gauge. The reason for this is, that if you have the gauge on the dash it will help tell you if you have enough pressure to race and if you have any n2o in your tank. It sucks pulling up to race and finding out your tank is empty. I also recommend a fuel pressure gauge and a air/fuel gauge. But I cannot in, good conscience, recommend the autometer air/fuel gauge. Get a good one like Greddy or HKS. The Autometer one, when on a dyno with a air/fuel test being done, was wrong, which could cause damage.

To get the best reading of the pressure on your line, I would plug the gauge into the line closest to the solenoids to get the most accurate reading

Well, the purple box most people mount it right behind the intake manifold. It is a very tight squeeze but it will fit and looks nice there. This is the same place I mounted my NOS setup.
The best place to mount the tank is in the trunk behind the driver side. It is best here because on the driver side of the car you have the brake lines run so you can put your n2o line run in the brake line runner so the n2o line will not get crushed which stinks from experience.

The best place to mount the nozzle is 1-6 inches from the throttle body the dry kit I recommend 6 inches If you are using a dry shot and you have a AEM you can use the oil return line and tap the nozzle into that or drill a hole in the bottom and aim towards the throttle body,, if you are using a wet shot I recommend about 2-3 inches and try to point it to the runners to make sure the fuel make it in with the n2o.

When can or when should you spray? Well, 2 gears you should not spray in is 1st and 5th the reason being is that in first you will just sit and spin but with practice you might be able to learn how to do it. With 5th that is the weakest gear on the clutch and tranny due to it is a highway gear and not made to handle the sudden kick of power.
Try not to spray until 4500-5000 rpm to make sure the engine is nice an spinning and try to stop by 7500-7800 so you wont bounce and cause some damage.

When you are going to spray you want your bottle at the highest pressure you can get but not to dangerous 1300 is extremely high and dangerous your burst disk might blow,, 1000-1200 is the best pressure to get the most out of your kit below that you will feel it but not as hard. With bottle pressure of 600 you really wont feel that much at all

To achieve this you should get a bottle blanket and or a bottle heater. And YES, other company's blankets and heaters will work for other bottles.

Well it depends on you but here is a easy way to figure it out,, with a 50 shot take off .5-.75 off your average time with a 100 shot take off 1-1.5 off your average time ”estimated” this has been tested with timeslips from other gas heads.

You should only need internal mods with a shot of about 100 or higher if higher then 100 then I recommend piston, rods, valves, springs, retainers, cams, cam gears.

I have checked with 90% of the manufactures that make cams and see if they recommend or think their cams work with n2o, and so far the only companys that say theirs will work are Crower makes a set that they say works with n2o, JUN stage 1 says it can handle n2o and ZEX makes a set that works well with n2o,, most other companys say they have not tested with n2o and do not recommend it and say it sould void warranty.

Yes you can still run n2o but you are putting extreme strain on the engine at on time so it could damage it I recommend a wet shot for this to make sure you have enough fuel and retard the timing alittle more and also do not spray above 50 to keep it safe.

Shot Size Wet NOS N2O Jet Fuel Jet Recommended Ret.
50 .037 .022 0
60 .039 .024 1
70 .041 .026 1-2
80 .043 .028 2-3

Shot Size Dry NOS N2O Jet Fuel Jet Recommended Ret.
40 .034 .044 0
50 .032 .042 1
60 .034 .042 1-2
70 .041 .036 2-3

Zex Kit Shot Size N2O Jet Fuel Jet Zex Retard Setting
55 32 36 0
65 35 34 2
75 38 32 4

Auto trannies take better advantage of N2O than manuals since it shifts faster and you don't have to lift between gears, But keep in mind that you are still spraying when the tranny is shifting and could cause flooding and maybe even a blown engine. An auto tranny should easily handle 55HP of extra power; if anything, the torque converter isn't in question, rather the clutches/bands in the first two forward gears. Nevertheless, you SHOULD have NO problems with the 55HP dry setup.

The shot is equivalent to the Horse Power gain. 55shot=55hp (although it's not exact, that's the main idea). So if you went with a 75 shot of N20 than you would expect a 75 HP increase NOW this is different with certain systems dry kits tend to rate the HP at the Flywheel and not at the wheels.

Well, if it's a standard Zex kit you have an endless amount of locations. I've seen people mount all their switches by the ebrake. I also see people cut a piece of ABS Plastic and mount them in that pocket down by the drink holders (Si version). You also could mount in that change draw like you said. In that location you can not close the drawer unless the switch is completely off (Safer). There really is no end to the locations. Dave on the other hand mounted his PROUDLY right next to the Sunroof button and mirror adjustment button (sorry no pics). As far as keeping your hands on the wheel, just learn to launch with it armed in first gear and everything should be fine.

For a 75 shot I would run the PSI at 44 with line off. That would put your idle psi at about 41 idle psi is measured with line on of course). I actually ran my psi at 51 with line off. But was running real rich. I dyno'ed it at 44 psi with line off and the air/fuel was right on. Remember it's better to run rich then lean. And with a dry system you need the psi up higher than normal.

Kit	New	Used under 6m	+6 Months
Zex	$500	$400	$250-$300 Max
NOS 5122	$500	$350	$200-$300 Max
NOS WET	$600	$400	$300-$350 Max
NX	$550	$400	$350
Venom	$1100	$700	$450
Purge Kit	$100	$90	$75
Bottle Heater NOS	$100	$90	$75
Bottle Opener NOS	$190	$100	$75
N2O 10lb bottle	$150	$100	$100
Clutch	$300-$600	Never buy used

Summit Pricing and Part Number for Window Switch
#MSD-8956 RPM Window Activation Switch = $76.95
#MSD-8744 RPM Modules 4000-4800 = $20.69
#MSD-8748 RPM Modules 8000-8800 = $20.69
#MSD-8961 MSD High Current Relay DPST = $25.95
TOTAL = $148.28

This is almost about personal preference they BOTH do the same thing and they are both DRY systems. The NOS kit is known to produce more horsepower since it is seemed to be rated at Wheel HP in stead of zex’s Flywheel HP.
As for the differences, Zex is a lot easier to install it is VERY user friendly and relies on a WOT voltage to activate. NOS dry takes a little longer to install and uses a mechanical switch to activate in WOT.

PRO’S of ZEX:
Very easy to install
Self contained
Safe if instructions are followed
CON’S of ZEX:
Low HP
Electrical WOT activation
Been known to have problems. could be due to install

PRO’S of NOS DRY
Higher HP
Long lasting company and support
Can be upgraded
Mechanical WOT Switch
CON’S of NOS DRY
Takes longer to install

Well, you are going to have to think for a minute. Do I have the time to research this and make sure I do not blow up my engine? Do I really have the time to keep going and refilling my bottle? Can I control the urge to raise the shot without taking the proper safety measures?

If you answered yes, then you might be okay running N2O.