How to bleed brake fluid?
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From: boston, Massachusetts, US
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Usually on ABS cars you use a power bleeder - but norrmally its the same for all cars:
There is a fitting on the cailper, you stick a hose on the fitting and submerge it in brake fluid (usually in a pickle/mayo jar).
Then you open the fitting - depress the brake - tighten the fitting - release the brake.
repeat untill you see no bubbles in the fluid comming out of the tube.
-m
There is a fitting on the cailper, you stick a hose on the fitting and submerge it in brake fluid (usually in a pickle/mayo jar).
Then you open the fitting - depress the brake - tighten the fitting - release the brake.
repeat untill you see no bubbles in the fluid comming out of the tube.
-m
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From: Bay Area, California
Rep Power: 0 As long as you keep the tube end submerged in brake fluid, no need to tighten and loosen the fitting. Just open it, pump the brakes until the fluid is clean, and close it up. Don't forget to check fluid level every once in a while as you pump or you'll pump your reservoir dry and have to restart the whole process to get the air out of your lines. Do the wheel closest to your cylinder first and the farthest wheel last. Also make sure to use the right fluid and don't get any on your paint.
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From: Oklahoma
Rep Power: 306 Could use a good DYI for this topic.
I've never done the brake fluid thing, but need to now that I've broken my fluid down to a quivering mass from my open tracking events.
Going to try it sometime in the next 2 weeks and hopefully document so others can benefit.
ams
I've never done the brake fluid thing, but need to now that I've broken my fluid down to a quivering mass from my open tracking events.
Going to try it sometime in the next 2 weeks and hopefully document so others can benefit.
ams
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From: Oklahoma
Rep Power: 306 Found this when searching for power bleeders...
Motive Power Bleeders
Anyone used the Import Power Bleeder on their vic?
ams
Motive Power Bleeders
Anyone used the Import Power Bleeder on their vic?
ams
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From: Oklahoma
Rep Power: 306 I changed my fluid this weekend with a friends help to ATE Super Blue. It was very easy with 2 people.
FYI, the fitting will take a 1/4" tube perfectly. That is what we used and it worked nicely.
The method we used was to pump the brake pedal a few times then hold, then I released the nut on the fitting and tighted as soon as I released it. And repeated a few times for each wheel. We checked the fluid level after each wheel, replenishing as needed. Then topped it off after we finished the last wheel.
A hint I was given that helps to visually note the change is to switch between the ATE Super Blue and Super Gold fluid every other change. You will see the fluid going blue or gold easily contrasted against the existing fluid of the opposite colour. And from what I understand the two are the same exact makeup, only differing in colour.
Now that I've done it, I don't see why you'd want to pay someone to do it, it's very simple if you take your time and make sure to watch for bubbles etc.
FYI, the fitting will take a 1/4" tube perfectly. That is what we used and it worked nicely.
The method we used was to pump the brake pedal a few times then hold, then I released the nut on the fitting and tighted as soon as I released it. And repeated a few times for each wheel. We checked the fluid level after each wheel, replenishing as needed. Then topped it off after we finished the last wheel.
A hint I was given that helps to visually note the change is to switch between the ATE Super Blue and Super Gold fluid every other change. You will see the fluid going blue or gold easily contrasted against the existing fluid of the opposite colour. And from what I understand the two are the same exact makeup, only differing in colour.
Now that I've done it, I don't see why you'd want to pay someone to do it, it's very simple if you take your time and make sure to watch for bubbles etc.
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From: 4o8, California
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The last time I bled my whole brake system I bought a brake bleeding kit from mityvac. Its a small hand pump that you attach to the bleeder and pump all the dirty fluid out and air. Worked great and was well worth the 35 bucks.
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From: Mauritius, Other, ZEBRA
Rep Power: 0 How many times should you press the pedal for each caliper? i.e how many times for front left, rear right, etc.. I guess it won't be the same cause the rear brake lines are longer than the front.
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From: arlington, tx
Rep Power: 0 from what i was told you should start farthest from the cyclinder .. passenger rear .. then drivers rear .. passenger .. then driver. and keep doing that until a solid stream shoots out may take a couple times. keep going until you feel the brake pedal firm up
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From: Boise, Idaho
Rep Power: 329 Bleeding brakes,
I dont recomend this prodeure but if you dont have any other options you can do the pedal pumping method. The down side is if you over extend the masters cylinder piston in its bore you can do more damage then good.
General tip for bleeding all brakes is start at the farthest point from the master cylinder, but this is NOT always the right rear wheel. I recomend following the manufactures repair manual. Power bleeders can sometimes have issues with ABS equiped cars. I recomend as someone has stated using a vacuum type system similar to this picture below.
Its always best to suck out ALL the old fluid from the master cylinder and start with clean fluid in the resivor prior to doing the bleeding.
I dont recomend this prodeure but if you dont have any other options you can do the pedal pumping method. The down side is if you over extend the masters cylinder piston in its bore you can do more damage then good.
Bleeding Process
Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.)
Locate the bleeder screw at the rear of the caliper body (or drum brake wheel cylinder.) Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw – and don’t lose it!
Place the box-end wrench over the bleeder screw (10mm for discs, 8mm for drums.) An offset wrench works best – since it allows the most room for movement. (If you do not have an offset wrench, avoid pushing the wrench head to the bottom of the bleeder screw – since the wrench may interfere with other parts during movement. Allow a standard wrench to sit near the top of the bleeder screw contact point.)
Place one end of the plastic hose over the nipple of the bleeder screw.
Place the other end of the hose into the disposable bottle.
Place the bottle for waste fluid on top of the caliper body or drum unit. Hold the bottle with one hand and grasp the wrench with the other hand.
Instruct the assistant to "apply." The assistant should pump the brake pedal three times, hold the pedal down firmly, and respond with "applied." Instruct the assistant not to release the brakes until told to do so.
Loosen the bleeder screw with a brief ¼ turn to release fluid into the waste line. The screw only needs to be open for one second or less. (The brake pedal will "fall" to the floor as the bleeder screw is opened. Instruct the assistant in advance not to release the brakes until instructed to do so.)
Close the bleeder screw by tightening it.
Instruct the assistant to "release" the brakes. Note: do NOT release the brake pedal while the bleeder screw is open, as this will suck air back into the system!
The assistant should respond with "released."
Inspect the fluid within the waste line for air bubbles.
Continue the bleeding process (steps 11 through 16) until air bubbles are no longer present. Be sure to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel! Add fluid as necessary to keep the level above the seam line. (Typically we repeat this process 5-10 times per wheel when doing a ‘standard’ bleed.)
Move systematically toward the driver – right rear, left rear, right front, left front - repeating the bleeding process at each corner. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on the brake fluid reservior! Keep it full!
When all four corners have been bled, spray the bleeder screw (and any other parts that were moistened with spilled or dripped brake fluid) with brake cleaner and wipe dry with a clean rag. (Leaving the area clean and dry will make it easier to spot leaks through visual inspection later!) Try to avoid spraying the brake cleaner DIRECTLY on any parts made of rubber or plastic, as the cleaner can make these parts brittle after repeated exposure.
Test the brake pedal for a firm feel. (Bleeding the brakes will not necessarily cure a "soft" or "mushy" pedal – since pad taper and compliance elsewhere within the system can contribute to a soft pedal. But the pedal should not be any worse than it was prior to the bleeding procedure!)
Be sure to inspect the bleeder screws and other fittings for signs of leakage. Correct as necessary.
Properly dispose of the used waste fluid as you would dispose of used motor oil. Important: used brake fluid should NEVER be poured back into the master cylinder reservoir! Dispose of the fluid as you would motor oil.
Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.)
Locate the bleeder screw at the rear of the caliper body (or drum brake wheel cylinder.) Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw – and don’t lose it!
Place the box-end wrench over the bleeder screw (10mm for discs, 8mm for drums.) An offset wrench works best – since it allows the most room for movement. (If you do not have an offset wrench, avoid pushing the wrench head to the bottom of the bleeder screw – since the wrench may interfere with other parts during movement. Allow a standard wrench to sit near the top of the bleeder screw contact point.)
Place one end of the plastic hose over the nipple of the bleeder screw.
Place the other end of the hose into the disposable bottle.
Place the bottle for waste fluid on top of the caliper body or drum unit. Hold the bottle with one hand and grasp the wrench with the other hand.
Instruct the assistant to "apply." The assistant should pump the brake pedal three times, hold the pedal down firmly, and respond with "applied." Instruct the assistant not to release the brakes until told to do so.
Loosen the bleeder screw with a brief ¼ turn to release fluid into the waste line. The screw only needs to be open for one second or less. (The brake pedal will "fall" to the floor as the bleeder screw is opened. Instruct the assistant in advance not to release the brakes until instructed to do so.)
Close the bleeder screw by tightening it.
Instruct the assistant to "release" the brakes. Note: do NOT release the brake pedal while the bleeder screw is open, as this will suck air back into the system!
The assistant should respond with "released."
Inspect the fluid within the waste line for air bubbles.
Continue the bleeding process (steps 11 through 16) until air bubbles are no longer present. Be sure to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel! Add fluid as necessary to keep the level above the seam line. (Typically we repeat this process 5-10 times per wheel when doing a ‘standard’ bleed.)
Move systematically toward the driver – right rear, left rear, right front, left front - repeating the bleeding process at each corner. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on the brake fluid reservior! Keep it full!
When all four corners have been bled, spray the bleeder screw (and any other parts that were moistened with spilled or dripped brake fluid) with brake cleaner and wipe dry with a clean rag. (Leaving the area clean and dry will make it easier to spot leaks through visual inspection later!) Try to avoid spraying the brake cleaner DIRECTLY on any parts made of rubber or plastic, as the cleaner can make these parts brittle after repeated exposure.
Test the brake pedal for a firm feel. (Bleeding the brakes will not necessarily cure a "soft" or "mushy" pedal – since pad taper and compliance elsewhere within the system can contribute to a soft pedal. But the pedal should not be any worse than it was prior to the bleeding procedure!)
Be sure to inspect the bleeder screws and other fittings for signs of leakage. Correct as necessary.
Properly dispose of the used waste fluid as you would dispose of used motor oil. Important: used brake fluid should NEVER be poured back into the master cylinder reservoir! Dispose of the fluid as you would motor oil.
General tip for bleeding all brakes is start at the farthest point from the master cylinder, but this is NOT always the right rear wheel. I recomend following the manufactures repair manual. Power bleeders can sometimes have issues with ABS equiped cars. I recomend as someone has stated using a vacuum type system similar to this picture below.
Its always best to suck out ALL the old fluid from the master cylinder and start with clean fluid in the resivor prior to doing the bleeding.
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From: Boise, Idaho
Rep Power: 329 im not aware of any cars that require it to be started to bleed the brakes, that dont mean its not needed on any. I would recomend checking the manufactures repair manual prior to bleeding if your uncertain.
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From: Boise, Idaho
Rep Power: 329 Originally posted by Titleist71
bleeding your brakes is pointless. If you autocross...yeah....upgrade brakes or do a conversion...yes. Otherwise its just a gimmic to get you to spend money.
bleeding your brakes is pointless. If you autocross...yeah....upgrade brakes or do a conversion...yes. Otherwise its just a gimmic to get you to spend money.
Why Bleed the Brakes?
The term "bleeding the brakes" refers to the process in which a small valve is opened at the caliper (or drum) to allow controlled amounts of brake fluid to escape the system. (When you think about it, "bleeding" may appear to be a somewhat graphic term, but it aptly describes the release a vital fluid.)
We bleed the brakes to release air that sometimes becomes trapped within the lines. Technically, "air" only enters the lines if there is a compromise of the system’s sealing (as when flex lines are removed or replaced), because when fluid boils, it will instead create "fluid vapor." Vapor in the brake fluid, like air, will create an efficiency loss in the braking system. However, for the sake of simplicity we use the term "air" throughout this article to describe both air and fluid vapor.
When air (or vapor) becomes present within the lines, it creates inefficiencies within the system because, unlike liquid, air can be compressed. So when enough air fills the lines, input at the pedal merely causes the air to compress instead of creating pressure at the brake corners. In other words, when air is present within the system, the efficiency and effectiveness of the braking system is reduced. Usually, a small amount of air within the brake system will contribute to a "mushy" or "soft" pedal (since less energy is required to compress the air than is required to move fluid throughout the brake lines.) If enough air enters the brake system, it can result in complete brake failure.
So how does air enter the lines in the first place? Sometimes, it can be the result of a service procedure or an upgrade – such as replacing the stock flex lines with stainless steel braided lines. But often it is the result of high temperatures that cause brake fluid components to boil, thus releasing gasses from the boiling fluid into the brake hydraulic system.
The term "bleeding the brakes" refers to the process in which a small valve is opened at the caliper (or drum) to allow controlled amounts of brake fluid to escape the system. (When you think about it, "bleeding" may appear to be a somewhat graphic term, but it aptly describes the release a vital fluid.)
We bleed the brakes to release air that sometimes becomes trapped within the lines. Technically, "air" only enters the lines if there is a compromise of the system’s sealing (as when flex lines are removed or replaced), because when fluid boils, it will instead create "fluid vapor." Vapor in the brake fluid, like air, will create an efficiency loss in the braking system. However, for the sake of simplicity we use the term "air" throughout this article to describe both air and fluid vapor.
When air (or vapor) becomes present within the lines, it creates inefficiencies within the system because, unlike liquid, air can be compressed. So when enough air fills the lines, input at the pedal merely causes the air to compress instead of creating pressure at the brake corners. In other words, when air is present within the system, the efficiency and effectiveness of the braking system is reduced. Usually, a small amount of air within the brake system will contribute to a "mushy" or "soft" pedal (since less energy is required to compress the air than is required to move fluid throughout the brake lines.) If enough air enters the brake system, it can result in complete brake failure.
So how does air enter the lines in the first place? Sometimes, it can be the result of a service procedure or an upgrade – such as replacing the stock flex lines with stainless steel braided lines. But often it is the result of high temperatures that cause brake fluid components to boil, thus releasing gasses from the boiling fluid into the brake hydraulic system.
Slowest 7thgen in the GTA
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From: Maple (GTA), ON
Rep Power: 288 Originally posted by Titleist71
bleeding your brakes is pointless. If you autocross...yeah....upgrade brakes or do a conversion...yes. Otherwise its just a gimmic to get you to spend money.
bleeding your brakes is pointless. If you autocross...yeah....upgrade brakes or do a conversion...yes. Otherwise its just a gimmic to get you to spend money.
yeah, bleeding brakes is a must. anyone here who has had the gut wrenching feeling of the pedal go to the floor because of air bubbles in the system knows what I am talking about..............
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From: Metro Detroit, Michigan
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by Titleist71
bleeding your brakes is pointless. If you autocross...yeah....upgrade brakes or do a conversion...yes. Otherwise its just a gimmic to get you to spend money.
bleeding your brakes is pointless. If you autocross...yeah....upgrade brakes or do a conversion...yes. Otherwise its just a gimmic to get you to spend money.
You should do a little research first before you post stuff like that cause that could cause someone serious injury listening to that sort of advice.
Oh, and you should find a new "master mechanic"
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Rep Power: 0 Bleeding brakes is not pointless. Do yourself a favor and stop listening to that old dog.
Over time, brake fluid begins to contain water, from moisture in the air. Since it's obvious that water has a much lower boiling point then good brake fluid, this water lowers the boiling point of your brake fluid. This could be a bad thing if your brakes get really hot for some reason; stop and go straffic, etc. If you're brakes get hot, and your pedal begins to feel spongy, this could be the reason. DOT 4 may be something you may want to consider also, it has a higher boiling point.
I do think every 3 years may be a little to much though.
Over time, brake fluid begins to contain water, from moisture in the air. Since it's obvious that water has a much lower boiling point then good brake fluid, this water lowers the boiling point of your brake fluid. This could be a bad thing if your brakes get really hot for some reason; stop and go straffic, etc. If you're brakes get hot, and your pedal begins to feel spongy, this could be the reason. DOT 4 may be something you may want to consider also, it has a higher boiling point.
I do think every 3 years may be a little to much though.
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Rep Power: 0 Also,
If you want to bleed your brakes yourself, and don't have a helper. You can always gravity blead them. Just take the cap off your master cylinder, and crack open a bleader screw. Since your master cylinder is higher then your bleader screws, the brake fluid will slowly run out of the bleader. You can still use a tube and bottel to contain the fluid.
Keep in mind this will take awhile. Start with the brake furthest from your master cylinder, do one bleader at a time, and make sure you keep fluid in it. If it goes dry, you'll have to start over.
If you want to bleed your brakes yourself, and don't have a helper. You can always gravity blead them. Just take the cap off your master cylinder, and crack open a bleader screw. Since your master cylinder is higher then your bleader screws, the brake fluid will slowly run out of the bleader. You can still use a tube and bottel to contain the fluid.
Keep in mind this will take awhile. Start with the brake furthest from your master cylinder, do one bleader at a time, and make sure you keep fluid in it. If it goes dry, you'll have to start over.
You get moisture in you system only if the temp of the fluid is at a boiling point and cools. Wow. Yes the person I spoke with is a certified Master Mechanic who works on everything from race cars, trucks, to his own WRX STi. He knows what he's talking about. I don't doubt his abilities and neither should u doubt what I write. I wouldn't post if I didn't trust what I hear and see. Yes, I did do a brake upgrade and my pedal pressure is perfect. I don't have moisture in my brake line system because I don't beat the F*CK outta my brakes to the point where the fluid boils and it destroys everything. U probably have that why u needed to bleed them. Let me guess you already changed your plugs too? You probably burnt them to a crisp? And your tranny fluid? I bet you had to flush that as well along with the 10lbs of metal grinding because you beat the hell out of your transmission trying to be MR. Racecar Driver with a honda civic. LOL gimme a break.
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From: Jacksonville, Fl
Rep Power: 375 At what interval should a normal driver change their brake fluid? Also, what grades for fluids can the civic's system handle?
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From: Metro Detroit, Michigan
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by Titleist71
trying to be MR. Racecar Driver with a honda civic. LOL gimme a break.
trying to be MR. Racecar Driver with a honda civic. LOL gimme a break.
Originally posted by bobbyd
What are you trying to be with a 10" tachometer? I bet your "master mechanic" said you needed it with a Honda Civic right? He probably told you that with a huge tach you will at least look like you are fast correct?
What are you trying to be with a 10" tachometer? I bet your "master mechanic" said you needed it with a Honda Civic right? He probably told you that with a huge tach you will at least look like you are fast correct?
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From: Anniston, Alabama, US
Rep Power: 307 As per HONDA:
Replace brake fluid every three years, independent of mileage.
Enough said, the fluid wears out, or more to the point, becomes contaminated. New fluid works better than old. And the Super ATE is awesome. Beats the manufactures specs in every way, and the gold and blue is an easy way to tell when you have completed the change.
A side note, add in some stainless brake lines during the change and you will be amazed at how much better your brakes work.
Replace brake fluid every three years, independent of mileage.
Enough said, the fluid wears out, or more to the point, becomes contaminated. New fluid works better than old. And the Super ATE is awesome. Beats the manufactures specs in every way, and the gold and blue is an easy way to tell when you have completed the change.
A side note, add in some stainless brake lines during the change and you will be amazed at how much better your brakes work.
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From: , Other, ZEBRA
Rep Power: 0 hey, yeah i bought the Motive Power Bleeder. it works very well.
the first time i did it, i followed the instructions and it worked great.
but it's a hassle to clean out the the unit after each use, so now i just use it as an air pressure pump. i pour fluid to the top of the resovoir, then place the Motive on top and pump air into the resovoir while i bleed the brakes, making sure that the fluid level in the resovoir does not drop below the line (otherwise you get air in the system). if it runs low, i just take the cap off, put more fluid in, then pump the air again.
if you use the unit in the latter manner i described though, you could easily make your own unit for about $20. just get a pump-type pressure sprayer from the garden section of Home Depot, buy an OEM cap for the fluid resovoir from Honda, then modify the hose on the sprayer to fit the cap. then buy a rubber O-Ring to fit on the cap so it's air tight. technically, you could fill the garden sprayer with brake fluid and it will probably work, but just to be safe i wouldn't.
the first time i did it, i followed the instructions and it worked great.
but it's a hassle to clean out the the unit after each use, so now i just use it as an air pressure pump. i pour fluid to the top of the resovoir, then place the Motive on top and pump air into the resovoir while i bleed the brakes, making sure that the fluid level in the resovoir does not drop below the line (otherwise you get air in the system). if it runs low, i just take the cap off, put more fluid in, then pump the air again.
if you use the unit in the latter manner i described though, you could easily make your own unit for about $20. just get a pump-type pressure sprayer from the garden section of Home Depot, buy an OEM cap for the fluid resovoir from Honda, then modify the hose on the sprayer to fit the cap. then buy a rubber O-Ring to fit on the cap so it's air tight. technically, you could fill the garden sprayer with brake fluid and it will probably work, but just to be safe i wouldn't.
Originally posted by alienmeatsack
Found this when searching for power bleeders...
Motive Power Bleeders
Anyone used the Import Power Bleeder on their vic?
ams
Found this when searching for power bleeders...
Motive Power Bleeders
Anyone used the Import Power Bleeder on their vic?
ams
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Boise, Idaho
Rep Power: 329 Originally posted by Titleist71
You get moisture in you system only if the temp of the fluid is at a boiling point and cools. Wow. Yes the person I spoke with is a certified Master Mechanic who works on everything from race cars, trucks, to his own WRX STi. He knows what he's talking about. I don't doubt his abilities and neither should u doubt what I write. I wouldn't post if I didn't trust what I hear and see. Yes, I did do a brake upgrade and my pedal pressure is perfect. I don't have moisture in my brake line system because I don't beat the F*CK outta my brakes to the point where the fluid boils and it destroys everything. U probably have that why u needed to bleed them. Let me guess you already changed your plugs too? You probably burnt them to a crisp? And your tranny fluid? I bet you had to flush that as well along with the 10lbs of metal grinding because you beat the hell out of your transmission trying to be MR. Racecar Driver with a honda civic. LOL gimme a break.
You get moisture in you system only if the temp of the fluid is at a boiling point and cools. Wow. Yes the person I spoke with is a certified Master Mechanic who works on everything from race cars, trucks, to his own WRX STi. He knows what he's talking about. I don't doubt his abilities and neither should u doubt what I write. I wouldn't post if I didn't trust what I hear and see. Yes, I did do a brake upgrade and my pedal pressure is perfect. I don't have moisture in my brake line system because I don't beat the F*CK outta my brakes to the point where the fluid boils and it destroys everything. U probably have that why u needed to bleed them. Let me guess you already changed your plugs too? You probably burnt them to a crisp? And your tranny fluid? I bet you had to flush that as well along with the 10lbs of metal grinding because you beat the hell out of your transmission trying to be MR. Racecar Driver with a honda civic. LOL gimme a break.
LOOK HERE !
I've also Quoted it below.
Clean brake fluid essential today
Anyone who has studies the brake system or serviced it should know the importance of brake fluid. But
brake manufacturers and specialists in servicing brakes say few technicians or car owners give brake fluid
the respect it deserves.
Mike Leeper, a technical trainer at EIS Brake Parts, said many technicians forget that brake fluid absorbs
moisture. Mr. Leeper explained that moistures creates two major problems in any brake system.
First, it corrodes precise metal hydraulic components such as valves and pistons and causes them to
stick. Eventually, moisture also creates a rusty sludge inside the system that clogs its vital valves and
ports. Second, moisture can degrade brake performance by causing vapor lock inside the hydraulic
system, he said. New brake fluid has a boiling point of 425 degrees Fahrenheit. After only 18 months in
service, brake fluid can absorb enough moisture to lower its boling point to 300 degrees, he said. If the
fluid boils, vapor bubbles occur. When this happens, the brake pedal will feel mushy or spongy and it will
take more pedal effort to stop the vehicle. Mr. Leeper said that technicians would recognise the pedal feel
as being the same as that on a system that needs to be bled.
Mr. Leeper said that brake rotor temperatures can reach the range of 800 to 1400 degrees F. Because heat
naturally travels toward a cooler object, some rotor heat is dissipated to the air around the rotor. But rotor
heat also travels through the brake pad and into the caliper, where it heats up the brake fluid inside the
caliper.
Sometimes, boiled brake fluid evades diagnosis, Mr. Leeper warned. By the time the technician has a
chance to road test the vehicle, the brake fluid has usually cooled down and condensed back into a liquid.
Therefore, the brake pedal feels normal again and the technician can’t find anything wrong with the
vehicle. In these cases, the technician can try to recreate the symptom by making repeated hard stops
with the vehicle or simply by explaining the situation to the customer and selling him a brake fluid
change.
Technicians at Weinhagen Tire Co. in St. Paul, Minn., change brake fluid with every job and flush the
hydraulic system by bleeding fresh fluid through it. When dirty fluid is found inside the master cylinder
reservoir, it is siphoned out and the reservoir flushed.
Kevin Lawrence, the service manager at Wilrae Inc., a full-service tire dealership in Bridgeview, Ill.,
recommends flushing the hydraulic system with every brake job. When the customer appears sceptical,
Mr. Lawrence demonstrates the need for changing the brake fluid by using a tester that measures the
amount of moisture present in the liquid.
Also, he cautions technicians to watch for instances of accidental brake fluid contamination, explaining
that he’s seen cases in which car owners or quick-service oil change workers have topped off the master
cylinder with motor oil or transmission fluid. Petroleum-type lubricants such as -transmission oil and
motor oil cause rubber brake parts to swell up.
Mr. Leeper, Mr. Weinhagen and Mr. Lawrence all predicted that routine brake fluid changes will be
necessary to keep the intricate hydraulics inside anti-lock brake systems (ABS) perform Img properly. Mr.
Leeper said that if tire dealers check the owner’s manuals in the vehicles they service, they’ll find car
makers are increasingly requiring periodic brake fluid changes for both conventional and ABS brake
systems.
Anyone who has studies the brake system or serviced it should know the importance of brake fluid. But
brake manufacturers and specialists in servicing brakes say few technicians or car owners give brake fluid
the respect it deserves.
Mike Leeper, a technical trainer at EIS Brake Parts, said many technicians forget that brake fluid absorbs
moisture. Mr. Leeper explained that moistures creates two major problems in any brake system.
First, it corrodes precise metal hydraulic components such as valves and pistons and causes them to
stick. Eventually, moisture also creates a rusty sludge inside the system that clogs its vital valves and
ports. Second, moisture can degrade brake performance by causing vapor lock inside the hydraulic
system, he said. New brake fluid has a boiling point of 425 degrees Fahrenheit. After only 18 months in
service, brake fluid can absorb enough moisture to lower its boling point to 300 degrees, he said. If the
fluid boils, vapor bubbles occur. When this happens, the brake pedal will feel mushy or spongy and it will
take more pedal effort to stop the vehicle. Mr. Leeper said that technicians would recognise the pedal feel
as being the same as that on a system that needs to be bled.
Mr. Leeper said that brake rotor temperatures can reach the range of 800 to 1400 degrees F. Because heat
naturally travels toward a cooler object, some rotor heat is dissipated to the air around the rotor. But rotor
heat also travels through the brake pad and into the caliper, where it heats up the brake fluid inside the
caliper.
Sometimes, boiled brake fluid evades diagnosis, Mr. Leeper warned. By the time the technician has a
chance to road test the vehicle, the brake fluid has usually cooled down and condensed back into a liquid.
Therefore, the brake pedal feels normal again and the technician can’t find anything wrong with the
vehicle. In these cases, the technician can try to recreate the symptom by making repeated hard stops
with the vehicle or simply by explaining the situation to the customer and selling him a brake fluid
change.
Technicians at Weinhagen Tire Co. in St. Paul, Minn., change brake fluid with every job and flush the
hydraulic system by bleeding fresh fluid through it. When dirty fluid is found inside the master cylinder
reservoir, it is siphoned out and the reservoir flushed.
Kevin Lawrence, the service manager at Wilrae Inc., a full-service tire dealership in Bridgeview, Ill.,
recommends flushing the hydraulic system with every brake job. When the customer appears sceptical,
Mr. Lawrence demonstrates the need for changing the brake fluid by using a tester that measures the
amount of moisture present in the liquid.
Also, he cautions technicians to watch for instances of accidental brake fluid contamination, explaining
that he’s seen cases in which car owners or quick-service oil change workers have topped off the master
cylinder with motor oil or transmission fluid. Petroleum-type lubricants such as -transmission oil and
motor oil cause rubber brake parts to swell up.
Mr. Leeper, Mr. Weinhagen and Mr. Lawrence all predicted that routine brake fluid changes will be
necessary to keep the intricate hydraulics inside anti-lock brake systems (ABS) perform Img properly. Mr.
Leeper said that if tire dealers check the owner’s manuals in the vehicles they service, they’ll find car
makers are increasingly requiring periodic brake fluid changes for both conventional and ABS brake
systems.
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From: Metro Detroit, Michigan
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by tfnaaf
Your such a F***ing N00B! You may want to change "Master Mechanics" ! Read the following and enjoy. And seeing how You are throwing your friends credentials around, i too WAS an ASE certifed tech for almost 15 years. And im very certain that you have no idea what you are talking about!
LOOK HERE !
I've also Quoted it below.
Your such a F***ing N00B! You may want to change "Master Mechanics" ! Read the following and enjoy. And seeing how You are throwing your friends credentials around, i too WAS an ASE certifed tech for almost 15 years. And im very certain that you have no idea what you are talking about!
LOOK HERE !
I've also Quoted it below.
