Rep Power: 0

My daughter has a 2004 Civic LX automatic with the 1.7

She called me earlier this week to say it wouldn't start (and was parked illegally. Yay). I drove to her school, got the car jumped, and drove it to the parts store. They tested the battery, which tested bad. Battery was replaced by the parts store under warranty.

I am convinced the battery was bad. There were several start attempts and at least two attempts to jump it before I got there.

First turn of the key after the new battery was installed resulted in no crank. I had the parts guy clean the connectors and after that the car started right up.

I drove the car to her dorm and shut it off. I tried to start it half a dozen times and one of those times it didn't crank. But it did several times after that.

She has called me since then and said that twice more it didn't crank on the first turn of the key but that it started right up on the second (I think maybe once it was the third).

My investigation suggests that maybe it's the main relay. Maybe it's the ignition switch. Less likely, though possible, is the starter. I'm prepared to replace all of those, but I'd like to properly diagnose it before I start replacing parts.

Do you have help on how I can diagnose this?

Also, can anyone help me with part numbers for the main relay and the ignition switch?

Thanks,

Matt

 
Rep Power: 242

Did you happen to notice the status of the green key light when trying to start the car and it wouldn't?

 
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Not specifically. I saw that there was a green light, but I don't know how it behaved and I didn't pay attention to any differences between "cranked" and "no crank".

I'm getting the car back on Saturday. I'll pay attention to it then.

What is the significance of the green light?

 
Rep Power: 221

Green light is for the immobilizer system

 
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That's a security system?

Edit: I just watched a Youtube video about it. In that video the guy had a key/fob combo and claimed there's a chip in the fob that is authorized by the car. The keys we have for this car have no fob. Does this still apply somehow?

 
Rep Power: 221

The chip is in the head of the key which is why a new key is like $250

 
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I've got the car home now. I think all that's wrong with it is that the Autozone guy did a crappy job installing the battery. The wire-end clamp bolts were only finger tight. I disconnected the battery, cleaned the connections, and properly re-installed it. I've turned the key about 20 times and it's started right up every time.

 
Rep Power: 221

Glad to hear you got it figured out and it was a simple fix!

 
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The damn thing just did it again. This time, though, I wasn't the driver. My wife was in the driveway attempting to start it.

From under the hood when the key is turned I hear a sharp mechanical click followed by . . . . nothing.

I *think* I'm hearing the solenoid fire followed by the stater motor not turning. What do y'all think?

Thanks

 
Rep Power: 517

Starter solenoid has bad internal contacts.
Replace the starter. (or have it rebuilt by a trusted local auto electric rebuilder)

 
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Thanks. Old starter is on my workbench. New starter has been ordered and is on the way.

 
Rep Power: 517

Make sue the small wire terminal fits tightly on the starter, a loose connection would cause intermittent operation. I usually give that terminal a gentle squeeze with small pliers just to make sure it grips tight when installed

 
Rep Power: 0

Will do. Thanks for the tip.

 
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New starter is in. Sample size is small but I'm at 100% starting.

Thanks for the help.