Starting issues 90 DX
Starting issues 90 DX
Just wanted to say hey to everyone. My name is Chris and I am from good ole south Louisiana. I own a 1990 Civic DX Hatchback and am experiencing some starting difficulties. Don't know if this is the place to post a question but the only thing I could find to post anything.
My civic will not start. Starter is good. Ignition solenoid is clicking but am only getting power to one side of it. It has a four wire plug containing two black/white wires on one side and one blue and one red on the other. I placed my test light on the black/white wires and turned switch to start and got power. No power to blue or red wire. How do I jump this solenoid out to check for starting?
My civic will not start. Starter is good. Ignition solenoid is clicking but am only getting power to one side of it. It has a four wire plug containing two black/white wires on one side and one blue and one red on the other. I placed my test light on the black/white wires and turned switch to start and got power. No power to blue or red wire. How do I jump this solenoid out to check for starting?
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Re: Mechris
Ignition solenoid is clicking but am only getting power to one side of it.
It has a four wire plug containing two black/white wires on one side and one blue and one red on the other.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 










Re: Mechris
I placed my test light on the black/white wires and turned switch to start and got power. No power to blue or red wire.
The blue/black wire should become grounded when you push the clutch pedal down.
(I assume this is a manual trans, yes?)
The switch for that is at the TOP of the clutch pedal (not the one at the bottom), it's kinda hard to see.... The rubber or plastic button pad that pushes on the switch plunger probably crumbled to pieces (pieces laying at your feet on the floor now)--- now when you push the pedal down the switch doesn't make contact.
Re: Mechris
Yes it is a standard and I have jumped the safety switch out already thinking it was that. Relay was clicking so I figured I would test the safety switch, which was a bitch to get to.
OK I connected my test light to the blue wire on the plug, relay is out, and turned key to on position. Touched a hot connection on fuse panel an test light lit.
OK I connected my test light to the blue wire on the plug, relay is out, and turned key to on position. Touched a hot connection on fuse panel an test light lit.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 










Re: Mechris
OK I connected my test light to the blue wire on the plug, relay is out, and turned key to on position. Touched a hot connection on fuse panel an test light lit.
The 2 black/white wires are hot with the ignition switch in the crank position
The blue/black wire is ground when you push the clutch pedal down
That should make the relay click. You said it does.
The last wire black/red should become hot (+12v) when the relay clicks.
If it doesn't then the relay is bad. Swap test with the horn relay if it is the same?
If you test that last wire while the relay is unplugged, it should light the test light as a ground (touch other end of the test light to power again) that would verify continuity to the starter solenoid...... if you use an ohm meter I think it would test around 1-2 ohms.
You can jumper either black/white to the last wire (black/red), twist the key and it should crank--if wiring and starter are good.
Make sure the shifter is in neutral first.
If the starter makes a clunk but does not crank, there's other issues.
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