Electrical Issues
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Electrical Issues
Hey Guys,
97 4 Door Civic.
Okay, the battery that came with the car was no good, at least i didnt think so. SO i replaced it, brand new. After about a week, it started doing the same thing the old one was doing. What seems to be boiling. Due to a overcharge. Theres no overcharge at idle, only when driving. So after replacing it with the brand new one I figured the issue may be in the alternator, being faulty by overcharging. Anyways when i took the battery back to the store the guy was like did you turn it upside down, or on its side. Obviously i did not, he said every cell inthe battery was dead.
Whatever, got a new battery in today. New alternator was installed on saturday, and alternator belt was also installed.
All seemed well but before installing the new alternator, I had to boost it to get it to the shop, when I boosted it, it seemed like it was getting very little power (which was more reason for me to get the alernator )
Bout a minute of driving, fueses started blowing, think a electrical surge may have happened somewhere along the lines. (duh) There was a bunch of blown fuses both under the hood and under the steering wheel. Swapped out most of the blown ones ran out though.
Whats happening now ? Well 2 concern me.
When in park or drive, whatever gear, if the lights are in the off posistion, if i go on my brakes, the ambers come on, and my dash lights, go off the brake, and suprise, they turn off.
SRS light is permantly on since the power surge. I see 2 fuses on the panel. (SRS and the SRS fuel pump) which one is related? or are they both ?
How many volts is considered safe for the battery to test at when idle, and when driving ?
Final thaught, what could have caused my alternator to be over charging, i understand the regulator is inside it could have gone bad. With putting the new one in, i just hope it doesent cook this battery.
EZONE, you have been a great help in the past, hopefully you run into this post.
Advise, thaughts, anyhelp would be great.
97 4 Door Civic.
Okay, the battery that came with the car was no good, at least i didnt think so. SO i replaced it, brand new. After about a week, it started doing the same thing the old one was doing. What seems to be boiling. Due to a overcharge. Theres no overcharge at idle, only when driving. So after replacing it with the brand new one I figured the issue may be in the alternator, being faulty by overcharging. Anyways when i took the battery back to the store the guy was like did you turn it upside down, or on its side. Obviously i did not, he said every cell inthe battery was dead.
Whatever, got a new battery in today. New alternator was installed on saturday, and alternator belt was also installed.
All seemed well but before installing the new alternator, I had to boost it to get it to the shop, when I boosted it, it seemed like it was getting very little power (which was more reason for me to get the alernator )
Bout a minute of driving, fueses started blowing, think a electrical surge may have happened somewhere along the lines. (duh) There was a bunch of blown fuses both under the hood and under the steering wheel. Swapped out most of the blown ones ran out though.
Whats happening now ? Well 2 concern me.
When in park or drive, whatever gear, if the lights are in the off posistion, if i go on my brakes, the ambers come on, and my dash lights, go off the brake, and suprise, they turn off.
SRS light is permantly on since the power surge. I see 2 fuses on the panel. (SRS and the SRS fuel pump) which one is related? or are they both ?
How many volts is considered safe for the battery to test at when idle, and when driving ?
Final thaught, what could have caused my alternator to be over charging, i understand the regulator is inside it could have gone bad. With putting the new one in, i just hope it doesent cook this battery.
EZONE, you have been a great help in the past, hopefully you run into this post.
Advise, thaughts, anyhelp would be great.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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Re: Electrical Issues
Sounds like the alternator is (or was) overcharging. Voltage is far too high. That will boil the battery and raise a stink.
The high voltage COULD have been the cause of fuses blowing.
Boosting a shot battery isn't good,and trying to start and run the car while the charger is on boost can cause damage too. If you ever check a battery charger while its running on boost, you might see 18 volts or higher and that can do damage.
Running the engine without a good battery in the circuit.....well, the battery is in effect a huge capacitor, it absorbs AC voltage from the alternator and limits/absorbs voltage spikes that happen when items turn on and off in the car.
SRS will be on with no codes when voltage reaches something like 16v (at least this is true for newer cars, I assume it's true for that car too.)
Check the SRS for codes though.
Normal charging voltage should stay anywhere between battery voltage (12.4v) and 13.8-14.6v (rough estimate for max), depending on what the computer wants the alt to charge at.
You have a new battery in it, but is that one still good now?
You have a new alternator, right?
Have you inspected every fuse in the car (both fuseboxes) and replaced all the blown ones?
Make sure the ground cable is good from the battery to the engine and body. Voltage drop tests, clean, etc.
Connect a voltmeter to the battery now. I'd use LONG wires so I can set the meter inside and watch while driving. (I might just hook it to the cig lighter socket instead)..
Run the engine, see what your voltage is. Drive the car, see what the voltage is.
The high voltage COULD have been the cause of fuses blowing.
Boosting a shot battery isn't good,and trying to start and run the car while the charger is on boost can cause damage too. If you ever check a battery charger while its running on boost, you might see 18 volts or higher and that can do damage.
Running the engine without a good battery in the circuit.....well, the battery is in effect a huge capacitor, it absorbs AC voltage from the alternator and limits/absorbs voltage spikes that happen when items turn on and off in the car.
SRS will be on with no codes when voltage reaches something like 16v (at least this is true for newer cars, I assume it's true for that car too.)
Check the SRS for codes though.
Normal charging voltage should stay anywhere between battery voltage (12.4v) and 13.8-14.6v (rough estimate for max), depending on what the computer wants the alt to charge at.
You have a new battery in it, but is that one still good now?
You have a new alternator, right?
Have you inspected every fuse in the car (both fuseboxes) and replaced all the blown ones?
Make sure the ground cable is good from the battery to the engine and body. Voltage drop tests, clean, etc.
Connect a voltmeter to the battery now. I'd use LONG wires so I can set the meter inside and watch while driving. (I might just hook it to the cig lighter socket instead)..
Run the engine, see what your voltage is. Drive the car, see what the voltage is.
Last edited by ezone; Feb 3, 2014 at 07:03 PM. Reason: Ninja edits!
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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if the lights are in the off posistion, if i go on my brakes, the ambers come on, and my dash lights, go off the brake, and suprise, they turn off.
This is usually caused by a wrong bulb.
Like you stuck a single filament bulb in a tail/brake light where a dual filament bulb was removed.
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When I went back to my car after working only 4 hours. Car was dead. Boosted no problem. Im thinking, something must be draining my battery when the car is off. I do have a aftermarket alarm which was acting up before all these power issues started. However i think i only disconnected the siren. I will go back tonite and remove it completly.
So im running a test right now, since it boosted - drove no problem, alternator must be good. I replaced it less than 3 days ago. brand new. Battery I just picked up a reconditioned one as if it was gonna start smoking i figure do it with a cheap battery.
No smoking no boiling from the battery since changing the alternator. So when i removed the posotive terminal this morning hoping if i go back to my car, connect it up under the hood. If it starts, i think it could be related to that faulty alarm probally stuck in a cycle of some sort.
But if it doesent. is it possible the alternator is not charging the battery at all ? Like thats partially to what its suppose to do. And with it being a new alternator.. im wondering, could a bad ecu be telling my car to do weird stuff ? ...
i have cleaned, sanded inspected all grounds in the car.
replaced all the important fuses. not some of the minor ones, rear power window.. etc...
the abs light is no longer coming on at all when i go on the gas. which is good.
im hoping for the best when i go to the car today.
gonna swing by the shop today and see if my mechanic will come on a test drive with me with his volt meter and see whats cookin.
ill post my results tonite.
Ezone...
Thanks!
So im running a test right now, since it boosted - drove no problem, alternator must be good. I replaced it less than 3 days ago. brand new. Battery I just picked up a reconditioned one as if it was gonna start smoking i figure do it with a cheap battery.
No smoking no boiling from the battery since changing the alternator. So when i removed the posotive terminal this morning hoping if i go back to my car, connect it up under the hood. If it starts, i think it could be related to that faulty alarm probally stuck in a cycle of some sort.
But if it doesent. is it possible the alternator is not charging the battery at all ? Like thats partially to what its suppose to do. And with it being a new alternator.. im wondering, could a bad ecu be telling my car to do weird stuff ? ...
i have cleaned, sanded inspected all grounds in the car.
replaced all the important fuses. not some of the minor ones, rear power window.. etc...
the abs light is no longer coming on at all when i go on the gas. which is good.
im hoping for the best when i go to the car today.
gonna swing by the shop today and see if my mechanic will come on a test drive with me with his volt meter and see whats cookin.
ill post my results tonite.
Ezone...
Thanks!
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: Electrical Issues
But if it doesent. is it possible the alternator is not charging the battery at all ? Like thats partially to what its suppose to do. And with it being a new alternator.. im wondering, could a bad ecu be telling my car to do weird stuff ? ...
Don't freak out until you have fixed the overcharging alternator and the ruined battery. If it still acts up after that, then worry..
ill post my results tonite.
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Today we are making progess. New alternator checks out, this one is not over charging the battery.
Went back to the battery store, got a new one. Got the tech there to come take a look.
We have identified now, i have a battery drain. Which is essentially being caused by something getting constant power.
All the fuses under the hood are good, no issues there.
However under the dash there are 4 fuses that are not setting off the test light when fuse is removed. 2\4 had the fuses blown, the other 2\4 were not blown but had a very dim light.
The instructions i followed are below..
Went back to the battery store, got a new one. Got the tech there to come take a look.
We have identified now, i have a battery drain. Which is essentially being caused by something getting constant power.
All the fuses under the hood are good, no issues there.
However under the dash there are 4 fuses that are not setting off the test light when fuse is removed. 2\4 had the fuses blown, the other 2\4 were not blown but had a very dim light.
The instructions i followed are below..
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery terminal. Make sure that the ignition key is not in the ignition and all lights and switches are turned off. Make sure all doors are closed. Connect one end of the test light to the negative terminal of the battery and the other end of the test light to the end of the negative battery cable.
2. Take note of how bright the test light is. A faint glow or no glow is normal. A bright glow however indicates a battery drain.
3. Go to the fuse panel in the car and begin removing fuses and relays one at a time. Check the test light after removal. If the light remains on after the fuse/relay is removed, that system is OK. Replace the fuse/relay and remove the next one.
4. The system causing the battery drain is identified by the test light. If the test light stops glowing bright after you remove a fuse/relay then that fuse/relay is causing a drain. Replace the relay and re-check system otherwise a deeper underlying problem exists in that particular fused system.
_____________
I fear the "deeper underlining problem"
Now, until i am able to ideneify the issue, i am to disconnect the negetive terminal on the battery to ensure the next time I go to it, It will start.
Apart from looking like a doucebag, is there a quick disconnect terminal i can attach to the negetive post so I dont gotta whip out the socket set ?
So now alternator are good, battery is also good. But ideniftying the drain...
I took the cover that idenifys the fuses with me to work today, and i stayed home so i will post the name of those 4 fuses when i get in tomorrow.
2. Take note of how bright the test light is. A faint glow or no glow is normal. A bright glow however indicates a battery drain.
3. Go to the fuse panel in the car and begin removing fuses and relays one at a time. Check the test light after removal. If the light remains on after the fuse/relay is removed, that system is OK. Replace the fuse/relay and remove the next one.
4. The system causing the battery drain is identified by the test light. If the test light stops glowing bright after you remove a fuse/relay then that fuse/relay is causing a drain. Replace the relay and re-check system otherwise a deeper underlying problem exists in that particular fused system.
_____________
I fear the "deeper underlining problem"
Now, until i am able to ideneify the issue, i am to disconnect the negetive terminal on the battery to ensure the next time I go to it, It will start.
Apart from looking like a doucebag, is there a quick disconnect terminal i can attach to the negetive post so I dont gotta whip out the socket set ?
So now alternator are good, battery is also good. But ideniftying the drain...
I took the cover that idenifys the fuses with me to work today, and i stayed home so i will post the name of those 4 fuses when i get in tomorrow.
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From: Ajax, Ontario
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Found this
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...-draining.html
really helpful ! I saw you put your 2 cents in on this one as well..
Seems like im going through the same thing.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...-draining.html
really helpful ! I saw you put your 2 cents in on this one as well..
Seems like im going through the same thing.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: Electrical Issues
Connect one end of the test light to the negative terminal of the battery and the other end of the test light to the end of the negative battery cable
Last edited by ezone; Feb 5, 2014 at 03:03 PM.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: Electrical Issues
Apart from looking like a doucebag, is there a quick disconnect terminal i can attach to the negetive post so I dont gotta whip out the socket set ?
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I'll be picking one of those up till i can truly diagnose whats causing the drain.
hopefully its not a required relay for something important.
something like a rear defroster i can defiantly live without.
hopefully its not a required relay for something important.
something like a rear defroster i can defiantly live without.
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okay, quick disco is awesome. Have had zero problems starting.
However, i got new tails, installed them. Noticed I had a brake light out.
Replaced the bulb. Saw a tiny lil spark where the bulb goes in. and now. No brake lights, liscence plate lights or anything from the rear for that matter.
I checked the fuse for tail lights\ liscence lights. But I got notta.
Any ideas ? I did not see any seperate relay for the rear.
could all the bulbs have gone all at once ?
Weird. but ive seen weirder things happen with this car..
TnX n Advance..
However, i got new tails, installed them. Noticed I had a brake light out.
Replaced the bulb. Saw a tiny lil spark where the bulb goes in. and now. No brake lights, liscence plate lights or anything from the rear for that matter.
I checked the fuse for tail lights\ liscence lights. But I got notta.
Any ideas ? I did not see any seperate relay for the rear.
could all the bulbs have gone all at once ?
Weird. but ive seen weirder things happen with this car..
TnX n Advance..
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: Electrical Issues
No brake lights, liscence plate lights or anything from the rear for that matter.
Fuse 32 in the dash box
Fuse 48 in the engine compartment box
Brake lights: Got all 5 missing? (2 inners, 2 outers, 1 center)
Does the HORN work?
Fuse 52 in the engine compartment box
The only common connection between all of those lights is grounds.
If it ain't fuses, I'd be using a voltmeter or test light to see what is missing at the inoperative bulbs.
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K changed a few fuses and now ... i got 1 brake light. Got turn signals. Ambers are okay. Liscence plate lights also okay.
It seems to be just the running light for the tails. Im assume this is probally the bulb. Gonna pick up a pack tonite and go from there.
Horn is okay!
Tnx for pointing me in the right direction.
CHeers.. Civic finally coming together.
It seems to be just the running light for the tails. Im assume this is probally the bulb. Gonna pick up a pack tonite and go from there.
Horn is okay!
Tnx for pointing me in the right direction.
CHeers.. Civic finally coming together.
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resolved! some of my sockets for the bulbs seems to be messed up. switched the order of the rear bulbs around and everything works.
Thank You EZONE.
A electrical genious.
Honestly, Thank you.
Thank You EZONE.
A electrical genious.
Honestly, Thank you.
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From: Ajax, Ontario
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Finally figured out what was causing my drain.
Main relay for the rear defroster. Finally got a miltimeter. went through fuse by fuse. Was drawing quite the current.
way over the suggested 50ma or less. Only resoved with the help of this site, and the eric the car guy video..
so glad i dont have to disconnect my battery whenever i park it.
esp. thanks to ezone.
Main relay for the rear defroster. Finally got a miltimeter. went through fuse by fuse. Was drawing quite the current.
way over the suggested 50ma or less. Only resoved with the help of this site, and the eric the car guy video..
so glad i dont have to disconnect my battery whenever i park it.
esp. thanks to ezone.
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