Rep Power: 0

Pretty self explanatory. Drove through a puddle the other day on the passenger side with the fuse box. A few block after my lights started pulsing MIL came on and speedo started bouncing around. got the code scanned and its only a P1298 the 7.5 amp fuse location 15 ( I believe ) was blown and the one next to it ( 20 amp door lock or something weird my car doesn't have power locks or sunroof ).

I've already check the TSB repair for this
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http://chowcman.com/krispycreme2010/...r%20Wiring.pdf

and I found 4 wires that were slightly rubbing the bracket so I seperated them put some electrical tape on each, replaced the fuses and tested it. same problem.

Now I've heard the ELD is in the fuse box with a 3 wire connector on the underside I was going to check continuity of ground among a few other things I found here

http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2009/...eld-fault.html

although my fuse box is not the same as 2001 I'm unsure which one my ELD is.

back to look while I still got daylight, otherwise I'm driving it to the repair shop I work for tomorrow

 
Rep Power: 517

P1298 is the only code? Hmmm...




First things first:

Does it still blow fuses?
Repeatedly?
Immediately, or do you have to drive it to get it to blow?

Does it blow both of the fuses mentioned?
Repeatedly?
Immediately, or do you have to drive it?


Do you have a wiring diagram that shows all of the components that are fed by the fuse(s) in question? Hopefully one that shows locations too.

Do you know how to trace out a wiring short to ground? (There are many more wires involved than just the ones under the manifold, that was just the common place for them to rub through and blow the fuse.)

 
Rep Power: 0

It hasn't blown them yet but I don't wanna drive around to find out in case it causes me to lose taillights. I'm ok with wiring but I only have a multimeter with me, found this
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http://www.justanswer.com/honda/1uo3...98-trying.html about to go check the ELD connector.... if i can find it

 
Rep Power: 517

Why would you think you are going to lose taillights?


If the fuse(s) are now not blown, clear the code.
Now read codes again. See if the same code comes back right away.


Trying to figure out if there really is a problem you should be looking at with the ELD, or if the code was just caused by the blown fuse.
I personally have not seen any problems with those old ELDs in that generation of car.

 
Rep Power: 0

dash lights went out when fuse blew the first time and almost everytime I've seen that short it usually takes the tail lights with it, although thats usually a short in the headlight switch nvn wasn't thinking clearly. I just didn't check if the tails were non functional and haven't blown a second fuse yet.

just looked in my fuse box and I see some water on what i guess is the ELD

will post pic soon. trying to remove fuse box to get to test the ELD connector but after removing the 3 bolts it still won't pull up. I can remove the battery and still test for continuity from the ELD connector to ground yes?

 
Rep Power: 0

it just started raining but there looks to be water under neath the black thing with the brown top. can I remove that just by the tabs on the side and is that the ELD?

 
Rep Power: 517

Continuity might not be a good test unless you can be certain that what you are checking is the ONLY thing on the circuit.
You still have O2 sensors and a VSS that use the same circuit (sharing the same fuse, at any rate), maybe more (see a real wiring diagram). Each item will contribute some amount of continuity to ground.



I was serious on this part:
Is the code caused by blown fuse or not?
If the code was caused by a blown fuse, you need to chase the blown fuse.
If the code keeps repeating even though it was cleared and the fuse is good, then continue doing what you are doing.

 
Rep Power: 517

The brown thing behind the big fuse looks like the ELD. I don't know if it will come out as-is. Like I said, I never saw any problems with this particular generation.

I bet the wiring attached to the bottom of the ELD is very short and won't let you pull it all the way out. You may need to pull the fusebox up and take off the bottom cover to access the wiring.

 
Rep Power: 0

I disconnected the ELD connector and checked the ground it has continuity, green/red has 4.61v with key on. black/white has 5.26v with key on. no voltage key off.

upon further exam of blown fuses I found the alternator sp fuse (7.5 amp) blown under the dash along with the radio, back up (7.5amp) and door lock roof unit (20amp) blown under the fuse box by the battery.

picking up some fuses brb

 
Rep Power: 0

new alternator sp fuse installed. No MIL, no pulsing lights, no speedo bouncing. Test drive time its about 20 miles home so if it blows again I have 4 more fuses. Is there any logical reason for the lights to pulse and speedo to bounce with just a blown fuse? It doesn't seem right to me....

 
Rep Power: 517

Good. Now just wait for the fuse to blow again. Or maybe you fixed it with the first wire repair.

Yes, but you are worrying about the wrong things here.

Remember all of these symptoms so you know quick which fuse just blew when you see it.