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So i've gone through and rebuilt the bottom end all new bearings, new pistons, etc... Everything worked fine on the bench once everything was slapped together. The engine rotated by hand with no issues. Now that i bolted the auto transmission to the block, i cannot turn it by hand. Is there a possibility the shifter cable is not hooked up correctly? Thus I cannot find Neutral to turn the engine over by hand?

 
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I'm thinking it's this part of the cable that isn't connected into the metal housing correctly. So this would present a possible issue that the trans is still in gear

 
Rep Power: 517

Sure. But that cannot be the answer for the problem you have now.
Nope. Guess again.

Unbolt the torque converter---you should be able to push the converter back just far enough to clear the flexplate, like 1/8 inch--- and see if you can turn the crank now.

Did you install the flexplate backwards?

 
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i pulled the head to make sure nothing was wrong with it, and that was fine. im going to pull the engine tomorrow, and it's possible the flex plate could have been installed backwards. my guess is the binding is going on with either the flex plate or torque converter.

first time messing around with an automatic civic, oh man what fun it's been. =)

if i cannot turn the engine how can i unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate??

 
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im pretty sure the flexplate cannot be installed incorrectly from what i remember in had an indention where that little round riser / shim is installed that the main flex bolts attach to the crank. however i installed the torque converter directly onto the flex plate with out the trans being installed. Once attached to the flexplate i just slid the trans on.

 
Rep Power: 517

How on Earth did you get it bolted together (TC+flexplate) if the engine won't turn? Did you even get that bolted together?

Did the bellhousing fit flat against the block without having to draw it together using bolts?

Think back through each step, figure out what happened between the last time it could turn and couldn't.


Leaving one of the TC bolts out only a few threads can cause it to jam on most of the engines...meaning if you only started one of the bolts without running it all the way down, that crank isn't turning.
There is only enough room for the head of the bolt, plus one fingernail thickness. Even something as simple as sticking a washer on a TC bolt is a no-no, there isn't enough room on most of their engines.

 
Rep Power: 517

OMFG I HOPE you didn't just ruin the trans or converter. The converter has to go in the bellhousing FIRST and sit on its splines......

If you bolted the units together, I bet it is too late now.

 
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well i will give an update possibly friday, thanks for the responses

 
Rep Power: 517

It is a PITA to jiggle the converter onto all its splines by itself with the trans on the ground.

You can't possibly even HOPE to get it to slide on correctly while attached to the engine. If you bolted the trans to the engine, something just got expensive.

I hope I'm wrong, but I bet I'm right.
Let me know if I'm wrong.

 
Rep Power: 185

Threads like this are why I'm paying Honda the $1000 in labor to install a reman trans when mine finally decides to go.

 
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I've always been a manual transmission kind of dude. Never had any issues in the past, and have built a few motors. Even if this is a major failure on my end lesson learned and still will be cheaper than 1 grand to fix.

 
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If the mainshaft is foobar'd looks like 96+ auto transmissions use the same mainshaft.

 
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**update**

got the engine pulled, trans unbolted undid the torque converter from the flex plate attached to engine. then correct installed everything... meaning...

torque converter installed into tranny first then mated with the engine. then rotated the crank shaft to attach flexplate to torque converter. So far so good, inspected the splines and they didn't look boogered up...

Now im stuck on the timing with this motor, every time i get everything on the exact timing marks pulley and cam gear then rotate couter clock wise it's off a tooth. So fustrating, so you think this could be cause by strech in the used timing belt?

 
Rep Power: 517

Timing belt is only like $25 retail.

Spring not installed? Got a shop manual?

 
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I got it installed, Autozone Special T-Belt 13 and tax. Bought it, and installed it no issues. I guess the other was stretched and was causing some issues.

 
Rep Power: 252

Should of gone OEM with the belt.

 
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So a little update on the engine. Started up drove around the block, had some slight over heating issues due to not all of the air burped out of the system. Took care of that, and then gave it a nice go around the neighbor hood. Transmission feels fine and no ill effects caused by my main mistake of putting the torque converter directly on the flex plate then mating the trans to it.

But now i know, torque converter inside transmission then mate to engine.. Perfect. I had some issues with the EGR valve throwing a code, but i think it was due to using a the intake manifold that didn't have the little EGR holes. Fixed that and she is running like a top. Will be adjusting the valves once more and calling it a day. Thanks for the input and help guys. Much appreciated.

 
Rep Power: 252

Good to hear.