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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHflV...ature=youtu.be

video of the motor, i have no clue what the problem is, as said in vid description, the car performance has not changed since the starting of the noise, and i keep up with oil changes, you guys know what the noise sounds like? thanks!

 
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bump

 
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Does it make the noise with the clutch in? does it get louder when u rev it?
is it coming from the drivers side or passenger side?

could be back A/C pump, Power steering pump if on drivers side, if on pasanger side it could be the throw out bearing(if goes away with clutch in) or it could be the input shaft on the tranny.

 
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My initial thought when I heard the video was a rod bearing but that usually has firmer sounding knock type sound, (atleast the ones I have heard). Like mentioned before does it increase with engine RPM, transmission engaged/clutch?

 
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its an auto, i cant hear the noise when i drive, due to the rpms goin up, it was in park when i recorded, when i rev, it seems to jus be drowned out by the increasing rpms, but i would assume it goes away, my car idles at like 500-700rpms, but i do not think that has to do with anything, my bro was sayin that it could be my a/c pump. i think the noise gets louder as i get close 2 the belts, my a/c stays on even tho its off, and i can control air temp, air flow, and all that good stuff, is there a sure way to know if its a/c pump?

 
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Disconnect the belt that is attached to the ac. If the noise goes away then thts your problem. You can also take off the belt to the power steering pump to see if it's that.

 
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I had a similar noise on my EX i though it was my Power steering pump, I replaced it and noise was still there, turned out it was the A/C pulley with a bad bearing causing the noise removed and problem solved (i never use A/C anyways)

 
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ahh!! so i should jus take off the belt then? or is it a reasonable costing fix?

 
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power steering pump is easy you can do it your self, and you should be able to one cheap at the wreckers, now ifs the AC its gets a little complicated, I couldn't be bothered by mine so i just cut my belt off since i can live with out AC

 
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gotcha,but if its the power steering pump,wouldn power steering not work? or not be as good?i assume that if the bearing bad, they would be more friction, which would make PS not as good, granted its being powered by a belt, but yea lol

 
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i remember an old car that used to whine and hum like crazy and leak all over but so long as the fluid was good, the steering worked great.

 
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What you can try as a test,. sit on level ground and turn your wheels al the way to the left and hold for a couple seconds, then turn your wheels all the way to the right and hold, do that several times to see if the steering gets harder or if you hear the noise change tones.

 
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yeaa, i thought i could test it, but it dnt make any noises, or tone changes, ill just take off the belt, and see what happens after, thanks for the help guys!

 
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Let us know !

 
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sry for the wait, but i regret to inform you guys that i have not took the belt off yet, but im going to probably today cuz i wanna get my car inspected..another question but, i didn wanna make a new thread, but it seems you guys know what your talking about, so ill just post it here...i went to get my car inspected couple months ago, and the scanner tool said that my car wasnt ready to be inspected? i assume it must be talking bout the cycles? well 4 months and 3000 miles later, i went back, and it still wasnt ready, no check engine light, but when it would come on sometimes. got it scanned and it was honda code 1337, googled it and it was the csf sensor? well never changed it, and the light has been off, for a while now. so what im asking is, even if the light is off, and the part is still bad, will it tell the computer that the car is not ready to be scanned?

 
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car "not ready" means the readiness codes are not setting for some reason. these are ecu self checks on things like emissions and sensor outputs. you do need to drive the car in a variety of ways to set the codes, but usually you can do it within 100 miles of resetting the ecu. if yours are not setting, you either have a bad battery connection that is constantly resetting the computer, or something is actually wrong. altho usually the engine light would turn on for problems.

 
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and if something was wrong, wouldn my check engine light come on? i mean with these odb2, if anything goes wrong, the owners would know?...this may sound like a stupid question, but is there a sure way to know if i have a bad battery connection? all my terminals are tightened, and theres no slack on any of the 2, ill take it the shop, and get it tested again, this will be the 4th time lol. Thanks for the info man

 
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Don't think you can get the ECU into a passing cycle without taking care of all the engine codes. Even if the light is not on. It might not ever get a successful cycle until you change the csf.

 
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hmmmmmm.....this is what i wonder, i may check the battery as what Gearbox said, ill check the voltage, and hopefully thats my problem.

 
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i feel like this is becoming redundant lol, sry for the post, i bet you guys are like "wtf this guy? but i solved the issue of the "not ready" status, i was at autozone, and i checked my battery, and it was good, so no issues with that!. but i called my bro, and explained my situation, and he says look for a fuse called "back up", so it was broke. Replaced it, and now i got a slew of error codes, my o2 sensor(bank 1 sensor 2) bad, my lock up clutch dnt engage, so im stuck in 4th gear, A/F sensor is bad, and my ELD is giving high input!

 
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at least you can now start fixing those things

 
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im hoping once i fix the o2 sensors, everything else would clear. i heard some pretty interesting stories about how the o2 sensors made the car do funny things