Rep Power: 210

Hi, I have a 2004 DX 5spd, and last week the voltage regulator in the alternator burnt out, causing the alternator to die. Because this was likely caused by the aftermarket electronics in the car, I decided to grab a new 160amp alternator to compensate for the extra draw.

Now the problem is, the car can only maintain a voltage of more than 12v when it's not idling (1100rpm or higher) and I have no idea why. When I'm driving along, I can have everything running (a/c, 200w amp, 850w amp, carputer, HID's) cranked relatively high and still maintain a voltage of 13.5-14v. When I pull up to a stop sign, even with the two amps turned off, the remaining accessories and the turn signal alone drops the system voltage to almost 11.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remedy this? Is the high-output alternator still not enough to keep up at low rpms? Is my battery maybe shot? (I have let the battery die about 4 or 5 times)

Just to include as many details as possible, everything is hooked up inline with the stock wiring of the car except for the two amps, which are connected to the battery directly, I'm using an Optima Red Top battery, and I have a 4 farad cap hooked up to the 850w amp for the subs.

Advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

 
Rep Power: 811

most hondas come with an ELD (electronic load detector) which senses electrical loads and turns the alternator off when it is not needed for better gas mileage and longer alternator life. it is located in the under hood fuse box. there are many threads here about it and how to find and disable it by removing the unit and putting a jumper wire in its place to make the alt run at full power all the time. the problem with the ELD is it does not "see" most aftermarket electronics you add to the battery terminal. so it is like having a stock car with lots of invisible equipment drawing on it without the car knowing. for example when you turn the fan on, it will detect the added power demands and turn the alt on. but when you crank the stereo with amps and subs, it will not do anything.

 
Rep Power: 210

Ah, sorry, that's the one thing I forgot to mention....I spent about an hour last night reading about the ELD and how to bypass it, and then I read that most canadian models don't have one, so I went outside and checked and sure enough, I don't have one...now that would mean that the alternator should be running at full capacity, correct? The new one definitely makes a difference overall, but idle voltage is still below the optimum 13v+

 
Rep Power: 811

hmm yeah the alt should be at max and continuous output, even at idle. did you have it tested with one of the auto stores fancy machines? usually a voltmeter will not tell the whole story. make sure that the alt is actually putting out the amps you think it is. most auto stores should have the better equipment to do a free check.

 
Rep Power: 210

Okay, thanks, I'll give that a try.