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Just got my car back from the accident and took to a shop, my car needed a new clutch for some reason They were going to put in a Type-R clutch but they used this ACT instead. It's a REALLY aggressive clutch I was going out not driving the car too hard since I have a duct-tape coolant reservoir (not radiator) cap until mine comes in since it's backordered, but I stopped and launched at about 5 grand a couple of times and I couldn't believe it then I did it a few more times and I pulled home got out of the car like I must go to the track this weekend, my car already ran strong now maybe... sub 15.5s... kickass.

 
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cool. you're the first person that i know of with an aftermarket clutch. glad ya like it[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

 
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what does 6-puck mean?

 
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6-Puck means instead of a circular disc with a single pad it has six seperate "spokes" with seperate clutch pads on each for a very aggressive feel and enhanced performance. At least thats what I was told, I didn't see it before I went in.

 
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how much was it, and what did it cost to have it put in

 
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Hey SOHCVTEC, is the one at the upper right of the pic the 6-puck that is/resembles what you have?

 
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Yes thats the one in the picture that you posted... the shop charged the insurance company $389 for the clutch disk and something like $700 installation, lol, the insurance company seems to have gotten butt-raped but they are probably going to raise my premiums for having to pay for all of this stuff. The EX is off of my car as well... so if i DO run mid-15s with stock exhaust, will make some people go hmm..

 
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Hey can you go into detail about your home ported TB? I would like to know what you did because that 1/4 time is impressive

 
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Actually... a friend of mine did the TB for me, im not sure on the exact details, I know that he used a dremel to significantly improve the room for air in the TB and then polished it to minimize turbulence. Thats the extent of what I know, I'll see if I can get more info. from him, I know that he's done over 20 for ppl around here and I have to pull the intake off in a couple days I can snap a pic of it.

 
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that would be great if you took a pic of your TB, btw if you get more info from him can you get a price too?

 
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Jon,
He charges $50 I believe for the porting. But... he is private, and there is no 100% guarantee that it will come out perfect. I can talk to him toinght and get some details or have him register and post here. Hey my racing team and I are going out to the bradenton 1/4 mile track ont he next runday Sunday, I think 3 weeks from now. You shoudl come get some runs in, we have 2 7th gens, 1 6th gen, and 1 4th gen Prelude Si right now. Also a Neon but he sucks [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/IMG]

 
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we use a dremel too, but instead of polishing, we make cross hatches to make the air spin in a circle as it goes in [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

 
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Thats an interesting idea? Have you dynoed or noticed and gains at the track? From my CAI and TB I went from 16.08 to 15.7... just curious if yours may be more efficient i could trade for astock one and redo it.

 
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The swirling in the throttle body won't be noticed once the air enters through the valves into the combustion chamber. The valves themselves swirl the air around in our engines. This is just my opinion, but I don't think that cross-hatching will have a positive effect. Maybe if you have a nitrous setup and you injected nitrous before that cross-hatched space. Then it might make a difference and let the nitrous mix in with the air and the fuel a little better.

 
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I have a question about that 6 puck clutch. If it engages so tightly how is the feel from the clutch pedal? Is it much stiffer than stock if any? Do you have to put more effort?

 
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good job....keep it up

 
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Yes the clutch is much stiffer than stock, it takes a little bit more effort and im finding that it is becoming a real pain in my 40 minute bumper-to-bumper commute... but, I'll keep it anyways. I'd say it requires maybe 50% more effort than the stock clutch and its not as easy to edge up either... I used to be able to let the clutch out a little around 2k rpm and inch up.. NOW I have to almost get it in gear to do the same thing. I would probably recommend the ACT Street/Strip for anyone who does commuting and watns a clutch.

 
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well most nitrous enters through the intake manifoldand has to pass through the throttle body. have you even had can of coke on a hot day, and it starts to 'sweat' ie when the air touches the colder can the water in the air comes out of suspension and will stick to the can. its the same thing in your throttle body, only some of the nitrous will come out of suspension and bead against the throttle body. the cross hatches will pervent some of the beading from happening, causeing a buildup of nitrous in the TB/intake pipe...the leading cause of haveing your intake blow and reach low earth orbit[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]

 
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throttle body mods USUALLY dont have such a great effect on horse power, at least from the dynographs that ive seen. they make a helix tower for our throttle bodies that creates a spining effect on airflow. i had a big bore tb and a helix plate on my toyota 4x4 dohc 4. it made the throttle response better but i wont say that it made amazing gains. its worth doing if you can get it cheap enough.