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The turbine outlet is 48mm... so a 75mm (3" for you non-metric types) pipe ought to do it... this is gonna be like throwing a hot dog down a hallway.
(for those of you wondering... I havent bought the rest of it because I need to make sure I can clear the alternator. I have 5.5", the flange and the transition take up 2... you do the math. Pie cut mania!!!!!!!!!!) The AC is negotiable, I think I used it 3 times all year. Total plan is to run 3" from the turbo back, with a high flow cat, a 18-ish inch resonator and some sort of non-fart can looking muffler. Yeah, its still gonna be loud, but there's something to be said for turbo scream coming out the exhaust pipe.

 
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when u gonna be done?????, im pullin for ya, i want to see some biiiig numbers outta u boiler, good luck

 
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Man Justin when does awesome become not enough. I always thought your setup was perfect, but good luck with the upgrades.

 
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Heh heh, I can't wait to see those welds.

 
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V-bands too, very nice. You doing the welding yourself, Justin? I've been looking at mandrel and straight lengths all last night to make my new exhaust. Piping and muffler is easy, what are you going to use for a resonator and where are you sourcing it from? Saw some of the ARO ones that looked decent, but I'm balking at paying $80 just for the res.

 
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I can't weld. I'm gonna try to fab and mock it up, then have Edwin's friend weld it for me. If I get ambitious, I'll try tacking it up, but even that is doubtful considering I dont have a welder.
As far as the resonator goes... I havent made it that far back in the system yet. I need to check to see if the downpipe clears everything up front first. if it doesnt then this is pointless. Once I figure that much out, I'll tackle the rest. I'll probably just pick up something like a magnaflow. I dont think its gonna matter too much. I just want to try and tone down some of the obnoxiousness. Its going to be pretty loud regardless.

 
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it doesnt have to be loud, dont get a resonator, get a glass pack instead, thats what i did in place of my resonator, it sounds much better, and its much cleaner

 
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Should be interesting Boiler. 3" exhaust on a T28 turbo D17. Let's see it!!!

 
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Good stuff Justin. I'm borrowing a buddy's welder tomorrow and am teaching myself how to weld this weekend. It's time to take matters into my own hands.

What are you using to cut the pipe with? Big-*** pipe cutter? Or do you know someone with a bandsaw? Hope it's the latter. I've been looking at some of the Flowmaster mufflers personally. I haven't decided yet either.

Looking forward to seeing the end result.

 
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I have a chop saw with a compound deck, so I can cut angles. If it gets really crazy we'll see what happens, but I dont think this is going to get *too* bad. as long as I can get that first bend headed downward and slightly towards the engine block. I'll be in OK shape. After seeing edwin's, I have an idea of what needs to be done.

 
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good luck and cant wait to see the end result if it works

 
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Downpipe sexytime!!!!


the BIG problem is solved, I can get it to clear the alternator. Took a couple tries to get a sucessful pie cut (I kept cutting the slices too thin and breaking through). Also tried this new blue welding rod... its fantastic. I havent had a chance to drop it in the car, but the big one was the 5.5" between the turbo flange and the alternator, I managed to pull it off in about 5.1. It'll get a little shorter once the pipes are completely deburred, but I can for sure get the pipe in there. Next trick is clearing the AC, which I do not think is gonna happen. I guess I can pie cut the **** out of it, but that kinda negates the point of the big pipe. We'll see if I can pull something off without too much trouble, but if the AC has to go, its gotta go.
Think I'm gonna go with an Apexi World Sport muffler, its the only 3" muffler available as a universal that also seems like it might be quiet. I'll probably hack off the huge tip and put a 3 or 3.5" pipe on the back end so it doesnt look as obnoxious.
Once this initial bending and fabbing is done, the under car part shouldnt be too hard. I'm just going to try and tuck it as high up as I can get it to go... but big pieces are easier to deal with than pie cuts.

 
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Nice stuff Justin! I hope you were wearing a mask with that new blue rod. It spatters like nobody's business. I gotta get this wiring clean-up done so I can fix my exhaust too.

 
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how ghetto

 
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Good luck with a 3" the rest of the way back. Gery can tell you how that goes, lol. That's why I don't want an exhaust.

 
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I've made it a foot out of the turbo... when I get under the car we'll see what happens. by the time it makes it 5 or 6 feet down the line its cooled off enough that going to 2.5" might be ok. I'm just going to feel it out as I go, if I need oval tube to do it, then i might give it a try. Once I make it under the car the only real big problem is getting over the control arm, so we'll just have to see how far back I can get it.

 
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Fixed... you forgot a word

 
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awsome! keep it up boiler.

 
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waiting...

 
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Here is what you should have considered first. these things are the bomb!

http://www.pro-werks.com/detail.php?...STEEL%2BDONUT#


It's what i used on mine. It would be fairly easy to make a 3" DP with these.

Here is my DP as an example and i didnt try that hard to make it REAL tight



And these would be something to look at also for under the car...


http://www.drgas.com/store/product.p...1&cat=8&page=1

 
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^^ the donut is bent no tighter than the bends I got.... both are on a 3" radius. Its just a matter of hacking things to the right angle and whatnot to get them to cram in there. Dont forget though that its on a centerline radius.... the outside of a 3" bend is 4.5"... everything gets big... fast.

 
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the donut is definitely not any tighter but it would certainly look clean with minimal welds. nice job on the down pipe btw

 
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The number of welds is a moot point, with the exception of what it'll cost me. The donuts need to be seam welded because when they bend them, they cant close the inner seam.... so there's still welding to be done. That clearance is tight... I think even with a donut, some type of crazy angle cut would have been necessary, and with a chop saw, its hard to cut a donut (you cant clamp it down).... so bends and tubing it is for me. Thats a form over function thing, and I'm way over towards the function side. The upper part of the DP will be jet hotted and/or wrapped up anyways, you wont see much when its done. All its gotta do is work.

 
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Hows this project comming? Im thinking of gathering some parts to do a 3" dp too.

 
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It still where it was 2 weeks ago. I'm going to try and make some more headway this weekend, at least figure out AC or no AC, and try to get it under the car. once I get there, I should be somewhat ok until ground clearance becomes a factor.

 
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Well if you can clear the rear control arm and sway bar you'll probably be all set running the 3 inch. If I dropped my car any lower it would probably hit going over descent bumps. As of now its perfect but it took a while to get it just right. It can be done, you just need to take your time.

 
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If you can keep the A/C ill definatly do this. I cant live without it here in socal...

 
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Hey and where did you get your 3" radius bends. Ive only found 4" radius mild steel ones.

 
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Fark! Folks want like $132 for a 3" mild steel donut! No thanks.

But here's a link to some $14 3" radius 3" tubing mandrel bends on Ebay. That sounds like a winner to me!

180127979164

 
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^^^ thats 4.5" radius on the centerline.
ATP Turbo sells 3" CLR bends, so does verocious motorsports. I'm sure other places sell them as well. Type it into google or something