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Ok so i am preparing to turbo my d17, i know it wont be cheap but i know it can be done so dont flame me or try to talk me out of it. from everything i can tell and just common sense the intake manifold is obviously the weak spot so i have started the process of acquiring a series of parts to to handle the increase in pressure/fuel requirements that a turbo setup would need. I have the obvious, rsx-s injectors, walbro fuel pump, aem d16y8 fuel rail, a COMPLETE d16y8 manifold that is hopefully on its way to my house (frp, vacuum lines, tb, injectors, rail....) i am going to run some sort of fuel return setup from that, now as i start getting these parts in i notice the rsx injectors dont fit the d16 fuel rail so i am left to wonder will they fit the d17 fuel rail and if so do i keep the injector plate from the d17 and weld shut everything but the runners on the manifold which would leave me another problem of then how do i make a fuel return? do i get a universal fpr and put some sort of an fitting on the end of the d17 rail? other problem also being do the injector plate and manifold even mate nicely or am i better off just bolting the d16y8 manifold with its injectors and all right up and just upgrade it slowly.

I guess on a side note i am trying to run about 1 bar, i assume i need some sort of emu, suggestions? ummm i also am not sure what size turbo to go with i would like to keep minimal turbo lag and hopefully get mid range power spooling at about 2500rpm or so. and then i guess how much do i need to beef up the internals to make sure that i am not gonna **** my block or is it just inevitable?

(i know this is a double post but i realized that this post might be better answered in the 7th gen section.... i forgot this was a civic forum now and not entirely 7th gen)

 
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Well to get it in before one of the mods does the ubiquitous "This has been covered 'X" number of times, use the search button" and locks the thread, I;ll answer some of your questions.

RSX-S injectors fit the D17 rail, not the D16. If you're going to run the Y8 mani, you have to do something about the EGR channels on the D17 and the coolant port on the Y8 mani. That port matches up with the EGR port on the D17 injector plate - not good. You either have to block off the EGR channel or weld a D17 shaped flange on the Y8 runners and lose the D17 injector plate. I don't know what will happen if you don't have the EGR channel anymore.

To run a return setup on the D17 fuel rail, just get a -6AN bung welded on to the right side of your fuel rail. Gerry at JDM Fabtech (02fpcivic on here) will do it for $40 if you supply him your fuel rail, $75 if he buys a new one and does it.

Yes you will need an EMS, Hondata's K-pro standlone is reputably the best, however there are some decent piggyback options as well - those being the PCS-XFC and the new AEM F/IC. You can also run the other standalone which is AEM's EMS.

If you want to run 1 BAR of boost, you will need to upgrade your injectors as the RSX-S ones will max out at just under .5 BAR. The SRT-4 injectors (577cc) are also plug and play into the D17 fuel rail. Anything above 9 psi and its recommended to at least replace your stock rod bolts with ARPs and also upgrade to an ARP head stud kit while everything is all ripped apart.

I'm just about done with my build and am about to start the install. I'll be boosting at just a titch over .25 BAR to begin with as that's all the injectors can handle. Check my terbow shopping list link in my sig to see what I've bought, and I hate to say it, but search the F/I section of this forum as well. There are still a couple decent FAQs left on the site.

 
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very good info speedfoos. Yeah search the F/I forum, their is very useful information in there. Just so you know the mods will close this thread so get what you need from it now

 
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You can always start with SRT-4 injectors with stock intake mani. I would not call stock mani as weak spot, it should not blow up at 15 psi.
As far as fuel management, go with K-pro, AEM EMS or at least with the newest toy - AEM F/IC

 
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Running 14 psi is gonna blow something quick.
The weak link is the hardware holding the motor together.... the head bolts and the rod bolts. Without upgrading those... disaster is a matter of time.
I wouldnt run 14 psi on a stock bottom end and plan on it lasting.... Gerry found stock rod bolts stretching out at 9.... and you dont want one of those coming loose.
Build the entire bototm end if you're gonna run that much boost.
For the rest of the questions....
Buy injectors that fit the Y8 ports if you're planning on using it, or you can just bore out the seats for the bigger tips.
You need a stand alone to run that much boost and trust it, I wouldnt trust a signal fooler, and for the turbo... it either makes power, or it spools fast. Finding the middle ground is tough because it'll run out of steam.
Try a GT2560R, 2860RS, or 2871R. They get bigger as the number goes up obviously, but the 2560R will hang on pretty good until around 7K RPMs.

 
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thanks for the answers guys, the search feature i found was both a gift and a curse because as i researched that is where these questions came from.

you certainly answered a lot of questions and im thinking it might be a good idea to rethink that 1 bar goal and go with something more practical like 9 psi. i would certainly like to run the rsx-s injectors or i guess if needed the srt-4 injectors because i would think they would be a little more wiring friendly, i shouldn't have any trouble getting a fuel rail to work with the injector plate then since it seems like it would be a good idea just to keep the stock fuel rail and have my friend weld a bung on. saves me time shipping parts back and forth.

of course that leaves me to wondering what to do for an intake manifold then? do you guys just suggest sucking it up and getting the sidemount from jdm fabtech?

 
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IDK, depends on your budget really on the IM. Gerry makes a nice mani, for sure, but they're spendy. Our mani actually has a decent design, with its only shortcoming being its plastic construction. Reputably its dodgy after 10 psi, and will start to develop leaks. A few folks are rocking Gerry's manis on this site, and they report they're fantastic. Dezod also has one that is about to (reportedly) go into mainstream production soon. You'll also need an aftermarket FPR once you convert to a return setup.

Here's what I'm doing if that helps any. Rocking the stock IM until I get my welder to chop the flange off the Y8 IM and weld the D17 injector plate to it. I also need to get a flange made up to take the D17 TB and get that welded on there too. This way the Y8 mani will be pretty much plug and play. I have a guy who is making me a custom IM as well. Once he's done with that, I'll be able to compare the two on a dyno to see which one is better.

So that's stock mani for now, converted Y8 mani (takes D17 TB, and rail) for later, and custom one to see which is better.

 
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Its everything you dont want in a FI manifold. The distance from the TB to the head is 18", its got an abrupt direction change in the plenum (goes all the way down, then back up, like a sink trap), and the plenum isnt really all that big in there.

 
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And that's what I get for repeating what I read from another post. Consider me chastised boiler. LOL - caught me with my knickers down, that's embarassing!