Feel a big difference w or w/o strut tower brace?
Feel a big difference w or w/o strut tower brace?
Anyone who has a strut tower brace. Did you feel a BIG difference when you didnt have it and put one on? I just sold my neuspeed, its still on the car but I was told by a few of my friends that you really do feel a big difference. I have the lower front sway bar and rear sway and tie bar.
i sold mine and i feel a big difference. The firs time i drove it after it was off i was all over the road like i was drunk but i have a cutom underbrace, rear strut bar, rear lower bar and sway bars so i felt a big difference.I picked up a DC strut bar cant wait to put it on.
Last edited by Civicman1988; Nov 13, 2006 at 05:26 PM.
When I put my front strut tower bar in, the only difference I noticed was less wheel hop. And civicman1988, i think it's all in your head dude, only thing the damn bar does is makes the body less able to flex. It doesn't change handling much at all unless maybe you're doing auto-x.
When I put my front strut tower bar in, the only difference I noticed was less wheel hop. And civicman1988, i think it's all in your head dude, only thing the damn bar does is makes the body less able to flex. It doesn't change handling much at all unless maybe you're doing auto-x.
Thats alot more than just a damn front strut bar. duh if you had all that and then took it off you would notice a difference. But if you just add/remove a front strut tower bar....VERY LITTLE DIFFERENCE.
Registered!!
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 679
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, New York
Rep Power: 0 
this is where i got my neuspeed one, but it was on sale
http://www.namotorsports.net/listing...t=17&subcat=68
http://www.namotorsports.net/listing...t=17&subcat=68
Registered!!
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 679
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, New York
Rep Power: 0 there is also www.dezod.com and www.truehonda.com
true i noticed a big difference after i took it off so i got another one sorry miss read the question dont bit my head off
it all depends on how you drive too, if you drive like an old lady you won't feel crap... but if your whippin around corners it's great
Banished to the Depths of Rice.
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 9,196
Likes: 1
From: SoCal 714/909/626
Rep Power: 352 
ya....the car feels alto stiffer when u take an onramp......i have to take one everyday, and i put my neuspeed in, and you do notice a diff (ive driven this same onramp for 2yrs now...every morning...ahhaha)
but i dont think its enough of a differenace where you can say ur car handles better...
but i dont think its enough of a differenace where you can say ur car handles better...
I found it much easier to hit and hold the line I wanted after I installed the neuspeed strut tower bar. The steering felt much more precise. I would rate it as the second best mod I have done next to my D-specs.
I just burnt my tongue
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 0
From: Chino Hills, CA
Rep Power: 319 strut bars make a huge difference...but it actually has to do with what kind of strut bar it is...when i put my tanabe on it made a really big difference on when i cornered compared...i tested this with stock springs than with my coilovers it made a world of difference either way...i have full coilovers, tanabe upper strut bar, tanabe underbody cross brace, tanabe 22m rear swaybar, dc sports lower tie bar...im gonna be selling my tanabe strut bar so i can get a dc sports one so i can fit an intake
i know u can run any aem intake with the dc sports bars because AEM ownes DC sports...my friend is currently running a dc sports cs-2 strutbar and a aem v2 shortram intake
i know u can run any aem intake with the dc sports bars because AEM ownes DC sports...my friend is currently running a dc sports cs-2 strutbar and a aem v2 shortram intake
Last edited by ragingSPAM; Nov 14, 2006 at 01:32 PM.
feel the difference for sure. even upper rear strut, some people say its no good but when my rear sway was loose (and that time i didnt even know whats going on) and making a thugging loud sound, i installed my upper rear strut, it minimize the sound where you can barely herre it. so i guess that really helps somehow.
if you want a big difference, get a good coilover. it'll put your stock sway to useless lol, well kinda.
if you want a big difference, get a good coilover. it'll put your stock sway to useless lol, well kinda.
When I put my front strut tower bar in, the only difference I noticed was less wheel hop. And civicman1988, i think it's all in your head dude, only thing the damn bar does is makes the body less able to flex. It doesn't change handling much at all unless maybe you're doing auto-x.
anyone selling a dcsport? No, doesn't have to be. Wheels hop is caused by bouncing effect of the suspension (springs, struts, etc.), and also by flex in the body of the car. In our cars, we don't have an actual chassis making them rather flexible. When wheels hopping, the two sides of the car are being "bounced" up and towards the center. A strut bar reduces this flex by making the area of the car that is being bounced more rigid. And so it's less likely to wheel hop. Being attached to the firewall helps even more but the basic purpose of the bar is accomplished without being attached to the firewall.
That's bout as good as I can explain it. If you still don't get it then maybe I can get a picture to show you.
That's bout as good as I can explain it. If you still don't get it then maybe I can get a picture to show you.
.
Just some searching...
What is wheel hop?
My front/rear end goes "whump whump whump" when I launch. What's going on?
Search for this topic now!
This is generally wheel hop, also known as a convenient automatic windsheild wiper activation feature. Both AWD and FWD DSMs apparantly suffer from this, in proportion to other mods; FWDs tend towards front wheel hop, AWDs prefer rear hop.
Not really caused by wheels bouncing, wheel hop occurs when the tires are getting/loosing grip in rapid sucession. Wheel hop tends to stress transmissions, differentials and other driveline components quite badly, as described in this post by John Werner. It has also been posted that the majority of center differential failures are directly related to wheel hop. Slicks, stiff suspensions, hard launches and burnouts promote wheel hop, and the resulting driveline failures.
Those who suffer from wheel hop should read Mark Purney's page on reducing wheel hop. Mark's solution (provided by Road Race Engineering) involves filling the stock engine mounts with polyurethane rubber to make them stronger.
Other FWD solutions include: equal tire pressures (left to right), lower tire pressures, softer suspension, a front sway bar (not strut tower brace) and less drastic launch techniques. AWD solutions include: equal tire pressures, softer suspension, and less drastic launch techniques.
Also look at this post by Scott Willard, which describes his experience with a loose driveshaft striking the bottom of his car. This is not the same as wheel hop but has the same symptoms - he describes a test to differentiate between the two conditions. AWD cars which exhibit a thumping from the rear are likely to have this problem, which is caused by worn carrier bearings. The solution to this problem is listed on the FAQ Locator; the $5.00 Carrier Bearing Fix page has the details.
My front/rear end goes "whump whump whump" when I launch. What's going on?
Search for this topic now!
This is generally wheel hop, also known as a convenient automatic windsheild wiper activation feature. Both AWD and FWD DSMs apparantly suffer from this, in proportion to other mods; FWDs tend towards front wheel hop, AWDs prefer rear hop.
Not really caused by wheels bouncing, wheel hop occurs when the tires are getting/loosing grip in rapid sucession. Wheel hop tends to stress transmissions, differentials and other driveline components quite badly, as described in this post by John Werner. It has also been posted that the majority of center differential failures are directly related to wheel hop. Slicks, stiff suspensions, hard launches and burnouts promote wheel hop, and the resulting driveline failures.
Those who suffer from wheel hop should read Mark Purney's page on reducing wheel hop. Mark's solution (provided by Road Race Engineering) involves filling the stock engine mounts with polyurethane rubber to make them stronger.
Other FWD solutions include: equal tire pressures (left to right), lower tire pressures, softer suspension, a front sway bar (not strut tower brace) and less drastic launch techniques. AWD solutions include: equal tire pressures, softer suspension, and less drastic launch techniques.
Also look at this post by Scott Willard, which describes his experience with a loose driveshaft striking the bottom of his car. This is not the same as wheel hop but has the same symptoms - he describes a test to differentiate between the two conditions. AWD cars which exhibit a thumping from the rear are likely to have this problem, which is caused by worn carrier bearings. The solution to this problem is listed on the FAQ Locator; the $5.00 Carrier Bearing Fix page has the details.
A strut tower brace helps handling in many ways, by improving chassis stiffness, it aids in making the chassis more sensitive to chassis tuning by improving weight transfer to the outside wheels. It also improves ride by making the suspension work to abosorb bumps insted of the chassis flexing, finally it helps maintain suspension geometry by reducing flex.
The Ultimate Time Trial, Street Prepared Class Solo II, SCCA ITB, Hot Street Car set-up!
Use Motivational, True Choice,
The Ultimate Time Trial, Street Prepared Class Solo II, SCCA ITB, Hot Street Car set-up!
Use Motivational, True Choice,
Please draw me a picture...
Last edited by yamahaSHO; Nov 18, 2006 at 08:26 AM.
