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While our supply lasts, we are running a sale on our turbo pistons for 10% off of normal price. Remember, this is while supplies last.



http://dezod.com/pd_dezod_motorsports_performance.cfm

 
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free?

Ok, the serious question... are they for .020 over or the stock bore?

 
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Stock bore sir.

 
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So what makes up for clean up machining the cylinder walls if you reuse the block in the car? Or is the assumption that it gets a bit toasty in there because of the boost and they expand to fill in the room?
or does one need to start with a fresh engine?

 
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Depends on how many miles are on the engine Boiler, if there is no ridge, send the block out to be hot tanked, have em hone the cylinders and then just gap the rings according to the formula they usually give you in the ring package and you are generally good for a street app. Make sure not to use WD-40 on the cylinders prior to or during assembly. When you get it back from the macine shop use fine steel wool (not an s.o.s. pad) and soap and water to take off any residue or metallic dust. Dry it, then put on a light coat of non-synthetic motor oil. I generally assemble motors with cheap oil in the cylinders, on domestics sometimes I use ATF on the cylinders instead. PS I wouldnt get too crazy on over sized pistons, the thinner the cylinder walls, the weaker they are. If you need over sized pistons go only as much as you have to.

 
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Well i need a motor thats going to last on the track (i.e. 15 minutes, plan on 12 of that to be under boost). I have no intent to turn the boost way up (I'll be happy at 9 or so, before I lose all corner exit traction), but I don't want it coming apart, nor do I want to be picking up rods off the track. So its going to have to go a little beyond just "street built" but definitely doesn't need to be a full race motor (it cant, it has to somehow stay OBD compliant (inspection)).
Still trying to sort it all out. I read a couple detailed things on motor building, I dont know if I should to do it all myself or not. Not that I can't, its more that I dont think I'll have the time to do it.

 
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Yeah making sure everything is just right does take time, you are more than capable of the task though. If there is no ridge on the tops of the cylinders generaly there isnt enough wear to require reborning. Usually forged pistons are a tiny bit sloppy (not usually physically noticable) and like you were thinking, yes they do slighly expand. I know of some cars that actually have a slight piston knock when the car is cold. I guess thats not very uncommon. I have heard of many DSM cars doing that too. If you take it to a machine shop they will tell you if its within tolerance. if you do it yourself just number the pistons and keep the rings with them.


In case you were wondering I opted for a whole new block, girdle, mainstud assembly from Majestic Honda, it was less than $400 dropped of at my door. So thats a good option too. They put lots of cosmoline(sp?) on the thing and it was a bitch to clean. I used my shower hahaha.

Sorry to clog up the thread Paul, maybe it will spark some interest and get some people over the fear of building one of these things.


Edit: I just looked at the MH website. the price went up, $395+shipping now. Not sure how much you'd spend at the machine shop.

 
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interesting. im about to built my motor from the bottom up with plans to go turbo middle of next year. i have a d17a1 and im about to do a head swap for now. i was looking at a d17a2 to build and swapping that when its finished. i read somewhere that someone got some 76mm pistons and sleeves for their a2. dezod know anything about these? would it be possible to drive n/a on turbo pistons for a short time until the boost comes along?

 
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Where do you go to get a block hot tanked??

 
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a moderate size engine machine shop would have one. If the block isnt grimey or doesnt have **** all in the coolant/oil passages you can usually just get away with powerwashing them. You want the engine as clean as humanly possible. Buy lots of white rags an build it in a controlled environment with no dust or sudden/drastic and repeated temp changes. Condensation = rust if the motor isnt run dirrectly after building, use lots of oil. I built mine in my kitchen, its still there. Thank god I have a good wife.

 
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Thanks for fielding the questions Jerry, and just to let you guys know all of the pistons are gone and the sale is over. We had a nice influx and the sets are gone. Thanks for your patronage and all orders are going out today!

 
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holy crap...it was a 1 day sale and everything is gone..lol awsome!

 
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I know. Crazy!

But 10% off on performance turbo parts is no joke.

 
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this is true paul!!