k20a vs k20a2
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k20a vs k20a2
hey guys,
i already tried searching and didn't find anything on this topic... i'm looking to do a swap but i can't make up my mind. Is the japanese type r motor worth it? k20a or k20a2?
i already tried searching and didn't find anything on this topic... i'm looking to do a swap but i can't make up my mind. Is the japanese type r motor worth it? k20a or k20a2?
If you're interested in forced induction, the K20A2 is a little more friendly. If you want a big NA build-up, the K20A is a better starting point, although simply getting Type R cams and swapping gaskets gets you most of way there with a K20A2.
I would just get a K20A2 because they're so much easier to find.
I would just get a K20A2 because they're so much easier to find.
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Originally Posted by DDragon7
But u could turbo the k20a2 in the future if u want. 
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Originally Posted by DAQIUN
on hmotorsonline they have the dc5 type r for 5600 plus shipping. then you have to get it put in about 8gs'
Originally Posted by HondaLuver
i sugget get a k20a2 swap, put ips k2 cams, LSD and Kpro, AEM CAI, DC race header, and 2.5 inch piping... you will smoke a d17 turbo and a k20a
I wouldn't get a motor from anywhere else but hmotorsonline ...
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join up on kseries.com for more info on swaps and other krelated questions. They have motors on there for 4,000 grand for a2 3500 for tsx k24a2 and other k24 motors(crv, accord).-corsport. Good site, like this but for kseries motored vehicles. I plan on do a2 swap come spring. Look @ salvage yards to-you can find a2 for 3000 complete swap, sometimes even cheaper. I don't know about buying motors that I can't do a compresion test on and start up and listen to it. I heard hmotors online isn't that good of a place to get a motor- but I could be wrong. The k20a is alot more expensive to do compared to a2. You could buy a lsd from a type r and swap it to you a2 motor. Alot cheaper to do that than buy the k20a(I don't think Ive seen em for less than 5500 shipped) where with an a2 you can get em shipped for 3000 grand and with the extra 2500 you save get kpro, intake, race header, and some other goodies. Or get the ips cam pac with kpro - ithink it was 2,000grand. 1sikcivic youre on kseries right, i go by same name on there as on here. If thats you what up man.
Block => k24A2
Head => k20A2
TRan => Type S or Type R
Header => OEM k24a2 hear works best with our swapping needs
Exhaust should be custom.
Whatever intake......KPro.......etc..etc.. trust me
Head => k20A2
TRan => Type S or Type R
Header => OEM k24a2 hear works best with our swapping needs
Exhaust should be custom.
Whatever intake......KPro.......etc..etc.. trust me
Originally Posted by aznboysrfr
k20a i/h/e/kpro > k20a2 cams/i/h/e/kpro
I wouldn't get a motor from anywhere else but hmotorsonline ...
I wouldn't get a motor from anywhere else but hmotorsonline ...
if the k20a and the k20a2 were mod for mod then yes the k20a would put out more hp than the k20a2... but the only reason why that would be is becuase the k20a has 11.5:1 compression versus the k20a2 compression of 11:1... but if you added a thinner gasket to the k20a2 then the k20a and k20a2 should be on par with each other...
now lets redo the equation
k20a i/h/e/kpro > k20a2 stage 1 cams/i/h/e/kpro
k20a i/h/e/kpro = k20a2 stage 1 cams/i/h/e/kpro/thinner head gasket
k20a i/h/e/kpro < k20a2 stage 2 cams/i/h/e/kpro
you guys gotta remember that the only MAIN difference between a k20a and k20a2 is the cams and compression... if you wanna get more technical then intake manifold and headers....and red valve cover
why spend $5500-$6000 for a k20a when you can get a k20a2 for around $3500... take that extra money of $2000 you save and get stage 2 cams for about $1000..
Originally Posted by xproductionz
acutally you are wrong...in a way.. stage 1 cams yes.. stage 2 cams no
if the k20a and the k20a2 were mod for mod then yes the k20a would put out more hp than the k20a2... but the only reason why that would be is becuase the k20a has 11.5:1 compression versus the k20a2 compression of 11:1... but if you added a thinner gasket to the k20a2 then the k20a and k20a2 should be on par with each other...
now lets redo the equation
k20a i/h/e/kpro > k20a2 stage 1 cams/i/h/e/kpro
k20a i/h/e/kpro = k20a2 stage 1 cams/i/h/e/kpro/thinner head gasket
k20a i/h/e/kpro < k20a2 stage 2 cams/i/h/e/kpro
you guys gotta remember that the only MAIN difference between a k20a and k20a2 is the cams and compression... if you wanna get more technical then intake manifold and headers....and red valve cover
why spend $5500-$6000 for a k20a when you can get a k20a2 for around $3500... take that extra money of $2000 you save and get stage 2 cams for about $1000..
if the k20a and the k20a2 were mod for mod then yes the k20a would put out more hp than the k20a2... but the only reason why that would be is becuase the k20a has 11.5:1 compression versus the k20a2 compression of 11:1... but if you added a thinner gasket to the k20a2 then the k20a and k20a2 should be on par with each other...
now lets redo the equation
k20a i/h/e/kpro > k20a2 stage 1 cams/i/h/e/kpro
k20a i/h/e/kpro = k20a2 stage 1 cams/i/h/e/kpro/thinner head gasket
k20a i/h/e/kpro < k20a2 stage 2 cams/i/h/e/kpro
you guys gotta remember that the only MAIN difference between a k20a and k20a2 is the cams and compression... if you wanna get more technical then intake manifold and headers....and red valve cover
why spend $5500-$6000 for a k20a when you can get a k20a2 for around $3500... take that extra money of $2000 you save and get stage 2 cams for about $1000..
type r intake manifold
lsd
type r gearing/final drive
there is more to it too ... I just didn't have time to finish my post last night.
the average person can't DIY their own cams ... so that is money spent on labor. TRUE some people can, but most people cannot... or they just can't afford the downtime. (such as myself)
And how about a K20A with stage 1 or 2 cams? ... you can sell the oem dc5-r cams for a decent amount and make some money back.
but like I did say in my previous post, yes other things we pointed out like the intake mani, header, lsd, gearing + final drive all come into play as well.
$3500 Type S motor
- $200 (?) DC5R intake mani
- $1000 IPS cams
- $300 ITR LSD
- $75 new differential bearings
- $300 (?) ITR final drive
- $200 (?) DC5R flywheel
total - $5575 ... that is if you DIY everything.
There is a breakdown of how much it would take all the edges off a K20A from a K20A2. Even after that, the K20A's compression will still be better, as well as the actual 4th, 5th and 6th gear that is all shorter on the K20A (not only the final drive).
but any angle you look at it, JDM bling is always nice. The price is about the same for the basic setup above, minus the other couple things I mentioned, red valve cover, black dipstick. You may be slightly faster with the above setup, but why waste all that time and efforts? You don't have to waste your labor (or money for labor) when you can just buy a motor and swap it in ... rather than taking your head and tranny apart.
the average person can't DIY their own cams ... so that is money spent on labor. TRUE some people can, but most people cannot... or they just can't afford the downtime. (such as myself)
And how about a K20A with stage 1 or 2 cams? ... you can sell the oem dc5-r cams for a decent amount and make some money back.
but like I did say in my previous post, yes other things we pointed out like the intake mani, header, lsd, gearing + final drive all come into play as well.
$3500 Type S motor
- $200 (?) DC5R intake mani
- $1000 IPS cams
- $300 ITR LSD
- $75 new differential bearings
- $300 (?) ITR final drive
- $200 (?) DC5R flywheel
total - $5575 ... that is if you DIY everything.
There is a breakdown of how much it would take all the edges off a K20A from a K20A2. Even after that, the K20A's compression will still be better, as well as the actual 4th, 5th and 6th gear that is all shorter on the K20A (not only the final drive).
but any angle you look at it, JDM bling is always nice. The price is about the same for the basic setup above, minus the other couple things I mentioned, red valve cover, black dipstick. You may be slightly faster with the above setup, but why waste all that time and efforts? You don't have to waste your labor (or money for labor) when you can just buy a motor and swap it in ... rather than taking your head and tranny apart.
uhh... well i did say main DIFFERENCE... but if you read my post again i did say also INTAKE MANIFOLD etc ... etc...
but may i also state that i aint taking into consideration the tranny.. i was STATING it from a HP point of view.. not gearing nor am i stating lsd and all that other stuff.. now that would be an entire discuassion on its own..
also remember that the original poster is asking if it is worth it... not about DIY or lsd or that other stuff... we dont know what his main focus is too do with his motor...
also then again... IF YOU ARE GOING TO DO THIS SWAP AND JUST STOP THERE THEN IMO THATS JUST A WASTE OF A PERFECTLY GOOD K20... BUT IF YOU ARE GOING TO PUT IN A K20 AND THEN BUILD IT THEN START OFF WITH THE K20A2... IF YOU WANT TO PUT IN A K20 THEN STOP AT THAT THEN GET A K20A.. IF YOU WANNA BOOST THEN PUT IN A K20A3 CAUSE COMPRESSION IS ALREADY LOW
but may i also state that i aint taking into consideration the tranny.. i was STATING it from a HP point of view.. not gearing nor am i stating lsd and all that other stuff.. now that would be an entire discuassion on its own..
also remember that the original poster is asking if it is worth it... not about DIY or lsd or that other stuff... we dont know what his main focus is too do with his motor...
also then again... IF YOU ARE GOING TO DO THIS SWAP AND JUST STOP THERE THEN IMO THATS JUST A WASTE OF A PERFECTLY GOOD K20... BUT IF YOU ARE GOING TO PUT IN A K20 AND THEN BUILD IT THEN START OFF WITH THE K20A2... IF YOU WANT TO PUT IN A K20 THEN STOP AT THAT THEN GET A K20A.. IF YOU WANNA BOOST THEN PUT IN A K20A3 CAUSE COMPRESSION IS ALREADY LOW
yes, I did see that you said intake manifold. Did you read mine?
I consider the fact that the lsd, final drive, gearing and flywheel is different to be a very huge difference. If you think that the itr tranny isn't much different than the type s trannies, then explain why itr trannies go for $1800 and type S's go for $900.
if the original poster just wants to do a swap and stop, I don't see why you should tell him that that would be a waste of money. What he does with his motor and his money is up to him, not you.
Originally Posted by aznboysrfr
yes other things we pointed out like the intake mani, header, lsd, gearing + final drive all come into play as well.
if the original poster just wants to do a swap and stop, I don't see why you should tell him that that would be a waste of money. What he does with his motor and his money is up to him, not you.
