Rep Power: 0

The other thread I was typing in got locked while I was out of town.

So coolant doesnt expand? I thought as it heated up, it expands? I have heard of stock motors spraying out coolant when filling up the resorvoir too much. They have all said, because that happens, and its not a prob.

It makes sense, isnt that why there is so much extra room in that resorvoir? Or is it for placement purposes for the radiator?

Please correct me if Im wrong, I thought that was the reason my resorvoir would spray coolant. It never does it unless I fill it about 6-7" too high. Other people are doing the same thing on this site as well. If I need my hg replaced, thats fine, not a prob. They are cheap as *** and a quick fix (unless warped head & needs shaving).

I dont think my hg is blown though. I dont lose coolant, I dont spray it, no smoke/steam. Car doesnt get hot unless long drives (25+miles on a 116 degree day). Than the gauge goes up to the halfway mark (water temp). Car drives very nicely, still gets 350+miles per tank.

Let me know

Peace

 
Rep Power: 584

its an overflow tank, when it needs some more it sucks it back in

 
Rep Power: 0

So, if it is near the top (especially after driving hard), would that be a good sign to replace the hg? It does not expand then?

or in otherwards...

If you fill up the overflow too much, would it be normal for some of the coolant to squirt of the top of the resorvoir?

Sorry if I sound like a dumbass, Im still learning.

oh, and never get any CELs, regardless of how high I boost, or if my car gets hot. Car runs very nice

 
Rep Power: 289

it heats up, thats what happend to my **** til I got the thermostat spring removed for the summer, this really helps out alot, but should be only temp as it keeps the car wayyy colder on cold nights.

 
Rep Power: 0

I know, Im the one who said ti DOES expand, but than I was told I was wrong. I am trying to figure this out. Cuz if so, I need to replace my hg. I have been told its fine, nothing wrong, many times. I have also seen stock cars do the same thing.

Can anybody help me out here?

 
Rep Power: 0

....................The Closed or Reservoir System vs. the "old style" Open System

One of the big disadvantages in the old open type pressurized system is that as the system cools, air is allowed back through the overflow tube. These systems are not totally filled with coolant because of the potential for coolant loss through the overflow tube when the coolant heats up and expands. As more coolant is lost through the overflow, less coolant is left to do it's job within the engine. Because of this, and that air can enter the system and reduce cooling system efficiency, overheating can occur. Closed reservoir systems were first used by car manufacturers in the early 1970's.

A closed or reservoir system has solved the problems listed above. This system is different in that a special radiator cap and overflow reservoir tank. Part of the radiator cap is a second sealing gasket under the shell that contacts the upper sealing seat of the filler neck. What was the overflow hose is now the connection between the radiator and the "bottom" of the reservoir.

While the open pressurized system is filled to a point 2-3 inches below the top of the radiator, the closed pressurized system is filled completely with coolant and the reservoir is filled approximately half full. When the engine is started and begins to heat up, the coolant expands. As the coolant expands it is forced out out through the pressure valve of the radiator cap, through the overflow tube, and into the reservoir. When the engine is turned off and begins to cool, a partial vacuum is created in the radiator by the contracting coolant. The upper sealing gasket in the pressure cap will then allow the vacuum to draw the coolant back into the radiator and engine from the reservoir. As you may have noticed, the actual volume of coolant that displaces during heat-up and cool-down transfer is minimal in most all cases.

Because of the coolant going back and forth between the radiator and reservoir, practically all air is eliminated from the cooling system. This pretty much guarantees that the engine block, heater core, and radiator are full of coolant instead of air. This allows the most efficient operation of the cooling system. Generally, on closed systems, coolant is added only as required, and then it is added to the reservoir, not the radiator.

back to top...............


http://www.centuryperformance.com/coolingsys.asp

^^nice info on that link, READ IT!

 
Rep Power: 0

Tons of info up there. it DOES expand, and if its too full, it only makes sense that it will go out. Its the only place for it to go. As long as its coming out of the overflow, it should be fine

edit - the last 2 or 3 paragraphs (section) is what answers my question. This is explaining the difference between how our car cools, and older cars cooling system works. I suggest people who are curious like me about cooling systems, to read all that info. It only takes 5 or 10 minutes and is easily understandable.

 
Rep Power: 584

so ur running no thermostat at all

 
Rep Power: 0

Coolant does not expand, metals and plastics do. I believe that the resevior becomes pressurized under heavy load, which causes the density of the liquid in the confined area to burst.

 
Rep Power: 289

I have my thermostat intact, just that the spring was taken off.

 
Rep Power: 359

water mixed coolent can expand.

Try using Evans waterless coolent. It has a high boiling point.

http://www.evanscooling.com/catalog/C_npg1.htm#outline

Also, if you had blown the Head gasket, you wouldn't be driving awaywhere.

 
Rep Power: 584

so how would u know if ur temp is or isnt thru the roof

 
Rep Power: 359

the spring opens and closes a valve. the value will remain closed until the coolent reaches a certian temp, then the valve opens to let the hot coolent out and cooler coolent in to absorb the heat, the valve spring then closes again.

I believe he is just letting the coolent run on a continues cycle by removing the spring.

 
Rep Power: 328

Man

I though we cover this already.
You don't need to put any coolant on the reservoir.
Just leave it empty.
Fill the radiator to the top.
When it gets hot under heavy loads the coolant will move into the reservoir when it cools off it goes back into the radiator.

If the coolant doesn't go back, and it overflows you have a HG problem and or detonation is moving your cylinder walls allowing pressurazed air into your water jacket thru your HG.

And removing your spring out of the thermostat is just as bad as removing it all together and is not a good idea as your computer will run on a closed loop.

 
Rep Power: 362

 
Rep Power: 811

I have the overflow tank full and never had it spill over.

 
Rep Power: 0

Thank you. Between what you guys said, and what I read, I have had my questions answered.

Much appreciation. I think my car is fine, but might replace the radiator/fans to be safe. Of course with the 100% aluminum koyo. Ill get the air out of the system tonight and make sure I have enough coolant in there. I was adding it in the overflow (the long neck resorvoir) which is where I believe you are supposed to add it. I will try it your way.

Thanks!

Peace

 
Rep Power: 0

My car creates a LOT more heat than yours, plus I put extra coolant to get through all the lines i added.

Is it at the full mark, or the top of the resorvoir? Mine was way over the full mark in the past, not for the last couple months at least.

 
Rep Power: 811

Well yea I forgot to mention i'm NA. the coolant is at the top about 1/2 inch from the cap. You can open the cap and stick your finger in coolant. I was adding some and didn't realize, now I can't get it out. Well I'm just lazy I guess.

 
Rep Power: 0

hehe, yeah the first time it was 5am and I was workingo n my car all weekend (noon til 6am) for the last 3 days. Plus lots of beer in me, I forgot to see how much I was adding. It started coming out the top, lol. I was like, ehh, whatever at the time. Since than I have taken my hoses off/emptied the coolant, and added the right amount. Everything seems to be in good shape.

Occasionally my car gets hot though. It doesnt really overheat, but after driving for 30-an hour sometimes even more, my car gets hot. If I turn it back on after turning it off, the water gauge goes up half way, sometimes all the way.

I know its a dummy gauge, but it shouldnt be going up. I know I should have a more accurate gauge as well.

It only does this maybe 1 in every 15 drives that are long on HOT days (115+) Would you guys think it would be cuz the weather?

 
Rep Power: 811

I've heard turning the heater on helps because it routes coolant through the heater core, thus reducing the heat in the coolant.

 
Rep Power: 328

Everything you are describing here are symthoms of a slighly blown HG.
A motor in good condition shouldn't get hot AT ALL
Specialy if the dummy gauge is going all the way up, is just a bad sign,it shouldn't move at all.
All it means is that its really getting hot!

I wish you where right ,so I didn't had to fix my car when it was doing exactly the same thing as yours and red line's

After I had a block guard installed the head milled and a new Hg
my motor hasn't heat up once or everflowed any coolant at all.
And I push it more than often.

Is easier to be in self denial and not bother to fix it hoping that the next bolt you turn or spring you remove will solve the problem.

But unfortunately there is no easy fix.

When you fix your Hg if you do,make sure they put the straight edge on your block to make sure isn't warped specialy if you car has heat up more than once.

Other wise you'll have the same problem over and over again.

 
Rep Power: 0

yeah, I'll replace the hg than. I was thinking it could be slightly blown. Ill check to make sure the head wasnt warped either. I definately wont leave that part out. Its the most important thing for me to do when fixing it.

Shouldnt take more than an hour or two, huh?

Ill let y'all know how it works out. I doubt Ill be able to get one for the next week or week and half. (Honda always has to order sh*t)



and when my dummy gauge does go up, the car was usually turned off right before. After Im done driving and the turbo timer shuts the car off, I put the key on to ign, but dont start the car. Occasionally (on very hot days) the gauge will go up to usually half way, sometimes 3/4. That is probably a 20-30 degree increase id say to the 3/4 from 1/4. Not good. It has gone up one or two times in the last 6 or 7 months while actually driving. It used to heat up more often when I used the wrong brand coolant. It was the right color, but wrong brand. HG works 50x's better.


You guys really dont think that 116 degree weather would help this to happen? Since a turbo on a non factory turbo'd car WILL get hotter. I thought the weather would be playing a big part of the heat issue. I was about to pop my hood off for the summer, but wont (law issues).

 
Rep Power: 362

^ you must be superman if you can do a hg in an hour or two

 
Rep Power: 811

it took two friends a full day to do mine. Thats almost 12 hours and they've already done it once before. There is ALOT to do.

 
Rep Power: 298

All the problems youve had! Do you regret going boost?

 
Rep Power: 327

MAke sure when you use a straight edge that its a machinist straight edge , NOT the straightest prybar in your tool box

 
Rep Power: 327

Even thou this wasnt dirceted at me, ... My only regret is not boosting sooner!

 
Rep Power: 413

PS. Without a thermostat you continuously run in OPEN loop, not closed. Closed happens at full operating temp.

 
Rep Power: 0

that sucks. I think I can push it out pretty quick though. Especially with the help of a friend. I know a couple people that change them in about 3-4 hours or less on their v8's. I was gonna have them help. At least they said it shouldnt take more than a couple hours, but well see.

2hrs=12-15hrs usually, haha.


lol, I thought Id use a leveler instead, haha. j/p

Yeah, Ill bring it to a shop to check it out more than likely. Im not that stupid.



Hell no. The only main prob I have had is my settings dont save. I will be getting a 2nd battery in the next week or so, and hooking it up to that. It will have to be on all the time, but it will work. I am trying to find something that I can recharge and hook it up to. That way every night I could plug my car into one of my garage outlets and recharge it for the next day.

My car drives very nicely, never had any major problems with it. The only thing that sucked was changing my clutch for the first time (on any car ever). Took me waaaay too long. But now I can change it in about 3 hrs. I had to rip everything apart twice, and the second time it didnt take but 2.5-3hrs working hard/fast.







Last night I added some coolant to the radiator, left the cap off, and started it up. Let all the bubbles get out (normal operating temp they were gone) and added more coolant. My car seems to be driving nicer, and staying cooler. There were a LOT of bubbles, and a lot of coolant missing. maybe 10 or 12 ounces? That could cause my car to heat up.
bubbles and not enough coolant=unhappy motor?

Well this morning on the way to work my car drove cooler than it had been. When I turned it off, and checked the gauge, it was at 1/4. Usually it doesnt stay below 1/3 at normal temps, even in the winter. So Im hoping this was "part" of the problem. I will still change the hg if it ever heats up more than normal. On the way home from work is when Ill really know, its hotter out, and Ive been driving throughout the day.

anybody have any ideas on the rechargeable battery idea? Thats what I really want to do. So I dont have to replace my battery too often.