Sway bar civic 2K1
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Sway bar civic 2K1
What is the best way to install sway bar on my civic 2001...
-Buy a kit like Neuspeed
-Buy rear suspension arm of civic 2004 and put rsx sway bar..
-???????????????????????
Thanks
-Buy a kit like Neuspeed
-Buy rear suspension arm of civic 2004 and put rsx sway bar..
-???????????????????????
Thanks
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Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Gaithersburg, MD
Rep Power: 412 yo0u need to decide how much oversteer you want to induce and that will determine the size of the bar. There is no best. You have to find the parts that work for you.
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From: Gaithersburg, MD
Rep Power: 412 just to let you know that the progress bar is good, but sometimes it can snap stock endlinks. I really suggest you do some research before you start slapping parts on your car. If you take your time you won't regret your purchases (i know I regret a lot of mine because I rushed into things). think of a goal for your car and then mod to meet that goal.
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Rep Power: 0 I think made the same think of this guy.....
Ok kids, heres what you've been waiting for. I have successfulyl completed this DIY with a cost of 150 USD and about 40 dollars worth in favors. To date, I have had no problems with the attatchments, welds or anything that might "break off" considering a custom-non-oem modification.
What I have noticed so far: Performance gains are minimal under normal driving conditions. The car does however, perform under high speed turns but don't expect enough G to black out. The roll is transfered from our once "sloshly" rear to the front, which is now the weak point and thus inhibits the performance I expected out of it.
NOTE: If you guys really want to drift in the rain w/o your handbrake, this is one way to do it!
I will not give any parts numbers because they are different btn Canada and USA so I will simply verbally describe them.
You will need:
1 left rear 2001 EX/SI endlink Honda
1 right rear 2001 EX/SI endlink Honda
2 10mm flanged nutz Honda
2 10mm flanged lock nutz Honda
2 19mm sway bar bushings Acura
2 19mm sway bar bushing holders Acura
2 8mmX18mm bolts Honda
4 8mm flange nutz Honda
2 8mm bolts (must be 3 1/2" long) Anystore
2 custom-made steel attatchments
1. First off, you must get you hands on something that allows you to attatch the endlinks to the rear lower arm. I designed my own set of mild-steel attatchment and had them made at a machine shop. Everything was free because I had aquaintance with the engineer. I realized this first step may set most of you guys back from doing this install but I can see in the future to either get a large batch for you guys at a low price or I may simply post the CAD design later. As you can see, the coke can is rougly the diameter of our tube-like control arm.
2. As you can see, from the picture above the pop can is roughly the diameter of our pipe-like lower arm. Once you have this piece made, the rest is quite simply. You must find the spot on the lower arm just distal to the strut linkage on the arm. There, you can find an unobstructed place to WELD these into place. I highly recommend you take it to a muffler shop and beg a 10 minute favor from someone. The beauty of this is that you don't have to be TOO precise on the placement of the steel attatchment. Just try the position by attatching everything to the sway bar and hold it up, tentatively, against the lower center beam and have it welded once u are satisfied with the placement.
NOTE: the mid-pipe clearence
Once it has been welded it might be a good time to spray some automotive rust inhibitor paint over the steel attatchment and the welds. You can see I just did before the photo was taken
3. This part takes some courage on you behalf. You must drill 4 holes into your lower center beam.
NOTE: the top two holes must penetrate the entire 3" of the lower center beam. There is no choice. Fortunatly it is hollow. You will note that one the other side of the beam on the driver side it a bracket holding the fuel tank in place. I drilled right to it but not through it. I do not have a picture to show you, but you will see what I mean. There will be JUST enough space to fit the nut there so have faith. Be precise in your drilling of you'll get a nice fuel leak.....no just kidding, but please do be careful.
4. Basically, with the attatchments welded on, the holes drilled, you're now ready to bolt everything up.
Place the bushings on the sway bar.
Correctly orient the bar. (Just look at how the bar curves up and back down to clear the lower arms)
Place the enlinks on the bar (Remember which is left and which is right by keeping it in its respective packaging)
Bolt up the links to the bar using the 10mm flange nutz(you'll notice the center spindle of the link rotates, preventing you from tightening the nut. Simply find the corresponding HEX key to keep the spindle from rotating.
Bolt up the remaining end of the endlink to the steel attatchments using the 10mm flange lock nutz (use tge same tightening method as above)
Slap on the 2 bushing holders and bolt the top 2 ends first using the 3 and a 1/2 inch 8 mm bolt with the 8mm nutz (getting the driver side will be tricky. Because u drilled under the fuel tank bracket, you'll need nimble rat claws to get the nutz on)
Bolt up the bottom 2 with the 8mm nutz
Presto, drive like go-kart!!!!!!
Ok kids, heres what you've been waiting for. I have successfulyl completed this DIY with a cost of 150 USD and about 40 dollars worth in favors. To date, I have had no problems with the attatchments, welds or anything that might "break off" considering a custom-non-oem modification.
What I have noticed so far: Performance gains are minimal under normal driving conditions. The car does however, perform under high speed turns but don't expect enough G to black out. The roll is transfered from our once "sloshly" rear to the front, which is now the weak point and thus inhibits the performance I expected out of it.
NOTE: If you guys really want to drift in the rain w/o your handbrake, this is one way to do it!
I will not give any parts numbers because they are different btn Canada and USA so I will simply verbally describe them.
You will need:
1 left rear 2001 EX/SI endlink Honda
1 right rear 2001 EX/SI endlink Honda
2 10mm flanged nutz Honda
2 10mm flanged lock nutz Honda
2 19mm sway bar bushings Acura
2 19mm sway bar bushing holders Acura
2 8mmX18mm bolts Honda
4 8mm flange nutz Honda
2 8mm bolts (must be 3 1/2" long) Anystore
2 custom-made steel attatchments
1. First off, you must get you hands on something that allows you to attatch the endlinks to the rear lower arm. I designed my own set of mild-steel attatchment and had them made at a machine shop. Everything was free because I had aquaintance with the engineer. I realized this first step may set most of you guys back from doing this install but I can see in the future to either get a large batch for you guys at a low price or I may simply post the CAD design later. As you can see, the coke can is rougly the diameter of our tube-like control arm.
2. As you can see, from the picture above the pop can is roughly the diameter of our pipe-like lower arm. Once you have this piece made, the rest is quite simply. You must find the spot on the lower arm just distal to the strut linkage on the arm. There, you can find an unobstructed place to WELD these into place. I highly recommend you take it to a muffler shop and beg a 10 minute favor from someone. The beauty of this is that you don't have to be TOO precise on the placement of the steel attatchment. Just try the position by attatching everything to the sway bar and hold it up, tentatively, against the lower center beam and have it welded once u are satisfied with the placement.
NOTE: the mid-pipe clearence
Once it has been welded it might be a good time to spray some automotive rust inhibitor paint over the steel attatchment and the welds. You can see I just did before the photo was taken
3. This part takes some courage on you behalf. You must drill 4 holes into your lower center beam.
NOTE: the top two holes must penetrate the entire 3" of the lower center beam. There is no choice. Fortunatly it is hollow. You will note that one the other side of the beam on the driver side it a bracket holding the fuel tank in place. I drilled right to it but not through it. I do not have a picture to show you, but you will see what I mean. There will be JUST enough space to fit the nut there so have faith. Be precise in your drilling of you'll get a nice fuel leak.....no just kidding, but please do be careful.
4. Basically, with the attatchments welded on, the holes drilled, you're now ready to bolt everything up.
Place the bushings on the sway bar.
Correctly orient the bar. (Just look at how the bar curves up and back down to clear the lower arms)
Place the enlinks on the bar (Remember which is left and which is right by keeping it in its respective packaging)
Bolt up the links to the bar using the 10mm flange nutz(you'll notice the center spindle of the link rotates, preventing you from tightening the nut. Simply find the corresponding HEX key to keep the spindle from rotating.
Bolt up the remaining end of the endlink to the steel attatchments using the 10mm flange lock nutz (use tge same tightening method as above)
Slap on the 2 bushing holders and bolt the top 2 ends first using the 3 and a 1/2 inch 8 mm bolt with the 8mm nutz (getting the driver side will be tricky. Because u drilled under the fuel tank bracket, you'll need nimble rat claws to get the nutz on)
Bolt up the bottom 2 with the 8mm nutz
Presto, drive like go-kart!!!!!!
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