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Whats up guys/ gals.
well im planing to get a kit soon. And im hearing about how Wet kits are better for our cars, but a guy at our local shop said its bad to get a wet kit because our T.B wasnt designd to carry fuel...anyone have any problems.. and is this wrong?

 
Rep Power: 607

Nitrous does not combust unless mixed with fuel. By inecting both through the intake can result in what is called "puddling" in the IM. This can be dangerous as the mixture is igniting inside the IM. Some ppl have even cracked the stock IM from this.

 
Rep Power: 281

^can't that happen in any car!!!
I remember awhile back sombody blew their intake manifold up, but they were not spraying at the right rpm/gear!!!
The wet kit is much safer than the dry kit, even though we have a plastic IM!!!
The chance of leaning out and messing up the engine with a dry kit is greater than the chance of using a wet kit, with caution and knowlege of a nitrous system, and getting puddleing of fuel/NO2 in the IM.

 
Rep Power: 285

i would tell your mechanic to install a dry kit then. I would love to see how that works out. Just remind him that the regulator used to spike the fuel pressure wont work on our cars. Hence the reason the wet kit is almost required



*** i say almost because there are some big mods you can do to your fuel system in order to run a dry shot

 
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Yeah, i know of some 7thgeners who run the dry kit, but they are really gambling!!

 
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so how does "puddleing" accure ( this is the main reason im afraid of going n20 at all)

 
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the velocity of the air flowing through your manifold is not enough to keep the momentum of the liquid fuel moving through the vertical part of the runners in the manifold. Therefore the fuel gets stuck in the bottom of the plenum.

This will cause the motor to run lean. This lean situation can cause a backfire which will light off the fuel, destroying your manifold.

This is typically called a nitrous backfire. It is actually very common. Most the time it is not too terribly violent (doesnt break stuff). But with our manifolds, even the small ones can cause some damage.

 
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eeeeeee.......so would it be wise to go dry?

 
Rep Power: 285

nope. the dry setup is not as accurate with the fuel delivery as the wet system.

Also, with an otherwise stock fuel system, there is no return line to install the pressure regulator on.

A dry system uses a regulator to spike the fuel pressure to add more fuel at the injectors. The amount of fuel delivered varys with the size of the injectors, number of cylinders, etc.

On a 2001+ civic with a completely stock fuel system, you cannot properly run a dry setup.

 
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Is that part of the reason that you have to spray at high rpm, so that the engine is really sucking air in???

 
Rep Power: 607

Spraying at a high rpm gives more velocity through the charge pipe and IM moving the nitrious/fuel mixture through the IM. You can install a window switch that allows you to spray at high rpms.

 
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So what constituts High RPM.. are we talkin 4k-6k, 5k-6k , ect. ( note: i say six because im not spraying into 7th.

 
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I spray fom 3500-6500, dyno session revealed a BIG drop of in power and torque past 6600 prm.

 
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thanks Dizzle.