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After months and months of engineering Crower has Finally came out with the D17a2 cam sets, valvesprings and retainers, and rods for our cars! With the help of yours trully (Truehonda), we were able to have them be the first out to bring power to our 1.7 liters. Here is the initial group buy. These prices will never be seen again. They are introductory prices which basically most vendors will pay! Here we go:

All Stages 2+ require Valvespring + Retainer set

Crower Stage 1: $379
Crower Stage 2 Turbo Spec: $379
Crower Stage 2 NA Spec: $379
Crower Stage 3 Race Spec: $379
Crower Valvespring + Retainer Set: $302
Crower Rods: $699

"Which Stage is right for you?"

Q: If I want something good for the street but I do go track my car a lot
A: Crower Stage 2 with valvespring and retainer set

Q: I just want a little power gain and want to spend as little as possible
A: Crower Stage 1 (valesprings and Retainer Kit optional but recomended)

Q: I spray N20 or Nitrous, which cam should I get, the Turbo Cam or the Stage 2 NA?
A: Your best bet is to go with the NA because the turbo cam is setup for full time boost.

Q: I want to build a full race car which hardly sees streets
A: Crower stage 3. They have a high lift and long duration. your Idle will be very rough, but the power will be there. You CAN use this with Turbo Cars.

Info:

Crower Stage 1:

The stage 1 was built for for somoene looking for about 7-10whp. These cams have a stock idle basically and are smooth all the way to 8k.

Crower Stage 2:

The stage 2 NA are built with a very smooth Idle but have a bit of an edgier lift for those looking for 11-16whp with tuning. The valvespring and retainer set is 100% needed for these unless you wanna ruin the head/motor. The Stage 2 Boost, are meant for supercharged and mostly turbo cars.

Crower Stage 3:

They have a high lift and long duration. your Idle will be very rough, but the power will be there. You CAN use this with Turbo Cars. They are a full out race cam and need the valvespring + retainer set. You cannot go without it on these. They make power all the way to 9k+ and would be awsome to gain about 20whp+.



All prices before shipping



How to order:

Or Click here for the ordering links:

http://www.truehonda.com/inventory.p...products&id=86

Call 877-408-4348 and ask for Edward. Mention this retail sale and order away!

To order via paypal, send funds to: Sales@truehonda.com

Crower Cam Spec Sheet (Revised 5/13/05)

 
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TTTt

 
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This is very helpful and now i know exactly what i need

 
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Thats why its here

 
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TTT, a couple of you already pre-orderd and should get them next week!

 
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New Website ordering! Remember, we are Crower Direct unlike any of the other vendors here on 7thgen. We can offer killer packages, fast shipping, and stock the most!

Let us know ASAP!

 
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noob question but will these cams also work on the vp/dx/lx non vtec d17?

 
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No they will not it says right below the cam specs just in case you know how i know. I also wanted to install them on my lx but i decided to go with a head swap

 
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Would people that have automatic trannys see any difference in power at all? And would stage 2 work good?

 
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Since your tanny takes more power to power the wheels, you would notice less whp. Engine Horsepower would remain the same! The stage 2 is probably the best selection for most of you guys!

 
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Do u need any stock parts for the head if i bought Crower Stage 2 NA Spec: $379 and Crower Valvespring + Retainer Set: $302



Thanks

 
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Looks like your covered!

 
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So is any of this worth getting if I have nothing else done to the car, like it says 7-10 hp for the stage one, but that is with turbo or what?

 
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No that without turbo. The turbo cam varries a lot in power due to the turbo setup being your own. I would do stage II with the valve train!

Edward

 
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so if i have an auto and turbo it and do the stage 2 would that be worth it

 
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So would I actually achieve 7-10 hp higher than stock if I just get the stage 2 n/a with the valve train?

 
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read up top for more info, but here's an explanation.

The stage II cams are rated for over 11 WHP. With certain mods, you will achieve more. Basline should be 11WHP with tuning at around I would say 65-70 degrees and a good strong motor.

To get 11WHP out of just bolt ons, it would take

1. An exhuast (Full catback)
2. Race/high flow cat header
3. Pulleys
4. Cam Gear
5. Tuning.
6. Intake of some sort

etc.

Edward

 
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ok, mabey Ill order this somewhere along the line, I know Ill have to pay more, but dont think im ready for it just yet

 
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Ok, let us know!

Edward

 
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bumpiness

 
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i just bought these cams and they are awsome!! Teh best thing i have bought for my car

 
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what about for a 5 speed civic looking to make 300whp. used for street but wants the power there when needed

 
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u going with nitrious? I am Pm so we can talk

 
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Ttt

 
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anyone else?

 
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Updated Tracking Info on some pending orders:

D. Ciesiolka UPS #1Z9197070300462446
D. Walterman UPS #1Z9197070300462455
M. Gutierrez UPS #1Z9197070300462544

 
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I would still like to see a dyno before I order, but I know that that would be almost impossable...I might order once more people have installed it

 
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There shall be some dyno's sooN!

 
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i have an auto...if i put in the stage 2 turbo cam and valve springs+retainer...would my car be ok until i get my turbo

 
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this sux ***, nothing for non vtech. =( would the springs and retainers atleast work?