Rep Power: 0

I have the SF kit, and recently had experienced a blown head gasket due to my theremometer sticking! I replaced it and 3 weeks later blew it again! the 1st time I was running 4.5 lbs of boost and most recently I was running 8.5 lbs! also both times I used the honda nippon leakless headgasket and apr headstuds! does anyone hear know if there is a better HG on the market! I'm sorry I didn't have time to run a search for this! I have little time and I'm never at a computer, so if you can help call Ivan at (951) 317 5299, thats my father and the main one working on my car! anyone in here from so cal and is boosted I'd like to get together sometime and have you look at my setup and make sure it's solid! thanx!

 
Rep Power: 293

Somethings wrong is your car tuned?? If its not thats your problem you are leaning out and its blowning the headgasket. Also you should try o-ringing the head gasket and thats a stronger way. If you are not tuned I highly recommend it what fuel system are you using? The sf fuel system is a horrible system.

 
Rep Power: 328

You mention thermometer sticking?
Did the car got hot and overflowed?
You head may be warped.
Take the head off and rectified it at a machine shop.
Also check for warpage at the block, use a straight edge.

 
Rep Power: 607

You have a bigger problem than just a HG. Are you using the SF fuel system and is the pump working ????

If so, as supermex said........your car may have overheated for too long and warped the head.

 
Rep Power: 396

Ohhh jeez, he's not going to like the results of this... good thing D17's are so cheap.

 
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I agree. Either (1) you are running too lean, (2) your head is warped and needs to be resurfaced or replaced, or (3) your head wasn't reinstalled properly. I would vote for head warpage, though.

 
Rep Power: 362

you could also say:

it's crappy that the d17's are so cheap.

 
Rep Power: 350

I called and talked to your dad and explained to him why you lifted the head the 2d time. You really need to not only do something for fuel but also for ignition timing. That's why the head lifted, you aren't pulling any timing.

 
Rep Power: 323

also after you check your head and deck for not being warped. make sure to torque the head down 10 ftlbs over stock.

 
Rep Power: 285

You either have something hooked up wrong or not hooked up at all. You werent listening for detonation, didnt feel what the car was doing, and dont understand how the **** it all works together.

I have run 14 psi on 91 octane shell gasoline, without pulling any timing. I have run 18 psi with a 91/103 octane blend, again, without pulling any timing.

Yes, i am now completely rebuilding my motor, but this was after 2 years (actually 1 year, 11 months, and 4 days) of completely beating the **** out of the car. I turbod it with only 16,000 miles on it, and it now has 62,000. Most of which was running at 9 psi or higher. And my motor didnt like it when an injector locked closed under lots of boost.

After you fix what you had hooked up wrong (or didnt hook up), check the head and block for level, check the cylinders for round, surface the head and block (if needed), hoan the cylinders (if needed), put it back together with the stock head gasket from honda, torque it to 59 ft/lbs, and drive the ****ing car.

If you are determined that everything is hooked up right, use an allan key to take the top off of the FMU (dont lose the ****ing spring), take the neoprene gasket off, and make sure there is a metal disc in there. The disc should fit loosely inside the FMU (about .015-.030" clearance side to side)

If there is no disc in there, or the disc is much smaller than the top of the FMU, you got ****ed by SF, and welcome to the club.

 
Rep Power: 350

You may've run 14 psi for a little while, but if you are just running pump gas and doing nothing else, if you don't pull timing, it's only a matter of time before the head lifts, I figured you'd know too much not to know this (and I know who you are )

Anyways, the 18 psi, if this was on a civic, again, with nothing for your timing, how can you not think that's unsafe? If your plugs are going off at the same time, it's essentially trying to send the cylinder pressure in the opposite direction or straight down onto the crank. Why would you not want to optimize your timing for optimum safety and horsepower? Just because you may have done it and gotten away with it doesn't mean it's safe or smart.....

 
Rep Power: 285

andy, did i ever turn the boost down?

I know it was unsafe as hell. But im just saying if my car lasted a full day on 18 psi, im sure his car would last more than 2 weeks on 4.5 psi.

I actually did break my car once before, and it was on 4.5 psi. BUT, my Air-water intercooler leaked all the coolant out, and i was seeing intake temps over 300 degrees. Hot air = more prone to detonation.

I got away with WAY too much boost for a very long time. I am not saying that leaving the timing stock is the safest way to go. I am actually installing an engine management where i can alter the ignition timing because i know full well the benefits of it. I am just saying with only 4.5 psi, its not necessary. With low boost, the stock timing curve is fine, IF you have the fuel for it.

I simply cant see the car breaking 2 times without 1) something being installed wrong (fuel system or missing link) or 2) he hurt the car before and warped/cracked the head (nitrous, plastic bag on the radiator = overheating).

Not trying to argue andy. Its good to see you on here again! Hows everything been goin?

 
Rep Power: 350

Nah, I'm not trying to argue either. But he said the second time it went, he was running closer to 8 psi. Once I finally got my car going with the original kit, I was running 10 psi daily with no timing pulled, either. I would never do it again though. But that, as well as a lack of fuel will lift a head in no time flat. You can't get a consistant spray pattern running an injector at over 200% fuel pressure than it was designed for.

I'm doing good man. Got my project done and bolted on but having some minor wiring issues with the d16 im I have. Hopefully will get them figured out and taken care of soon. After that, I plan to get it to the dyno. Hoping for some decent numbers before I start a build. What about you? What are you doing now?

 
Rep Power: 285

read my profile. Ive spent way too much money.

 
Rep Power: 396

LMFAO I like your last sentence mike, that takes a man lol

 
Rep Power: 328

I got me a return fuel system boosting 12psi daily on internals 8:01 oversized pistons.

Still after boosting on full throttle for a few seconds the fuel line dried down to the bone, even with a bigger fuel line and RXS injectors.
Resulting on a lean condition that will cause a HG to go.
The actual pump assembly from the tank has a very small orifice coming out.
So there is only so much volume flowing through.

We are building a separate fuel reservoir that will get fuel from the tank then to an on line pump then to the fuel rail with a regulator then back to the reservoir then back to the main tank.
Thus having a good 1/2 gallon of fuel always available to quench the thirst.

I'll find out next week how it all works out.
I'm using Optos electronic systems and dynoed at 215 hp / 200 lbs torque so far.

 
Rep Power: 350

Well, you can always use a -6 AN fitting in place of the stock spout....I thought about doing that and I just may, that's interesting to know though. What makes you so sure that caused you to run lean?

 
Rep Power: 328

Fuel gauge