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Different products seem to move the HP without actually increasing it much. What item or items could creat more low end TQ and sacrifice the top end performance?

 
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Well, my stock modded intake seemed to have more jump without the resonator than with it on. I don't know how it affects the car on a long term scale because I put in an AEM V2 (with a sound like that, I say "to hell with low end power"). A few other things like bigger tires, nitrous (not a good idea if you value the life of your engine), grounding, and a throttlebody heater bypass will also help a little, but not significantly. Really, the only way to significanly change the low end torque is to get an engine swap and work with that. I would normally tell you to get a turbo along with that, but I'm assuming that what you really want is a fast launch off of the line, and turbos are only good from second gear on.

 
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the only thing that comes to mind without spending major $, is AEM underdrive pullies. Other bolt ons generally move power to the high end.

 
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the only way i can think of is to keep it stock.

 
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different gearing will make it feel like more low end power.

 
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Small wheels, a K&N drop in filter, and AEm pullys.

 
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supercharger.

 
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hummm just launch at a higher RPM and pray you don't break anything....

all joking aside, our engines are less than 2 liters obviously, so they are going to lack in the area of low end power. That's a big reason traction is so important. Get some stickier tires a better clutch and fly wheel combo and work on launching without spinning/hopping. Someone allready said it but a pully kit wouldn't be a bad idea also.

 
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lol drop in a 454. Its a honda we dont need low end man. Revs are better anyways hehe. Just gotta make the best of it where it counts.

 
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cant expect too much low end on a 4 cyl midrange-topend is where it is anyway. you can only do so much to increase rev speed.

 
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GET CAM GEARS. Adjustable cam gears will allow you to move the power band up and down in the rpm range. Advance to move the torque peak lower, retard to move it higher.

Gains on your stock motor will be small; you should really have this done on the dyno with a properlly indexed cam. Search this site and the web for info on cam tuning and indexing.

I strongly agree with the above statement obout getting a good clutch, lighter flywheel, and practicing...

Remember what you're doing here, movingthe powerband, not really increasing it (unless you do some I/H/Ework and an aftermarket cam)

 
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I tell you I have noticed a good increase in lower end driveability. I have an aem v2, dc sports header, megan cat delete, ractive mid pipe, and a flow force2 axel back. I noticed the bottom end increase after taking off the cat. I think mixed with the other parts gives me good low end especially when the ac is on.

 
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Remove everything from the interior of your car except the driver's seat, pedals, steeting wheel, gauges, and center console. I know it's not technically "moving" power to lower rpms, but you'll accelerate faster and you won't even have to sacrifice higher rpm power. If you have some cash lying around that you don't need, you can always replace the stock hood, trunk, and fenders with carbon fiber.

 
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I agree mostly everthing that i have done to mine give me more top end. aem intake, aem pulley's, Kamikaze header, removed resignator, also getting custon 2 1/4 exhaust in 3 weeks i'll be interested to see how murc top end i gain.

 
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Uh.... Question was about LOW END GAINS.

 
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i wish they made one for are car but they dont only thing we have is turbos and swaps

 
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lsd. i can't say this one enough. flywheel underdrive pulleys and aem plug and play module. good luck

 
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keep stock exhaust system thats for sure since backpressure in low rpms creates more torque if i have be told correctly

 
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i've heard that also but i been told by a few ppl here that 2 1/4 exhaust is the best for non asperated motor.

 
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Next time anyone tells you anything about "back pressure", try and get them to explain the concept to you. There is no such thing.

Instead of trying to conceptualize back pressure, think of it this way.

There are two things going on in your engine's plumbing (intake and exhaust). They are 1) a standing sound wave created by the periodic opening and closing of the valves on both the intake and exhaust side, and 2) the flow of air/fuel into the engine and exhaust flow out.

So, we have a sound wave and some mass of gasses flowing in the exhaust (and intake).

The sound wave is caused by the opening and closing of the valves. The frequency of the sound wave is controlled by the speed at wich the valve opens and closes (valvetrain RPM). To review some highschool physics, a standing sound wave is a series of "pulses" of alternating high and low pressure zones that travel past some fixed point. Also to review, when these pulses reach the end of the tube, they get reflected back up the tube. We can use these high- and low-pressure zones to help us out. If we can get a low pressure pulse to arrive at the exhaust valve just as it opens, it can help us pull the gasses out of the cylinder a little more efficiently. Also, on the intake side, if you can get a high pressure wave to arrive at the valve just as it opens, it will help us get a little more charge into the cylinder. We can "tune" the exhaust and intake runners by changing their lengths (or diameters).

As far as flow through the tube, we want to balance the speed of the gas so it is not too fast, and not too slow. If the gas is required to flow too fast, there will be an undue ammount of friction and turbulance in the tube, and we will be robbed of some power. If the gass does not flow fast enough, the gass will not have enough inertia. The inertia of the gass is important because it determines how much gass we can get into the cylinder after bottom dead center (the point at wich the cylinder is no longer pulling on the gass). The more velocity, the more intertia, and the more gass will squeeze itself into the cylinder after the intake stroke and before the valve closes. We use the diameter (and length) of the tube to tune it for velocity. For a given mass of gass traveling down a tube, the larger the diameter, the slower the velocity.

Now, for low torque:

We want a longer pipe to accomodate the longer (lower frequency) sound wave (caused by low RPM operation) AND we want a smaller diameter pipe to keep the velocity of the gasses up. That sounds like a stock exhaust to me, right?

For more top end power:

We want relatively short pipes for the higher frequency sond wave, and larger diameter to let the gass flow with less restriction becase the high rpms will help keep the gass velocity up. Hmm, this sounds like short intake runners (think itb's) and large 3" diameter turbo exhausts.

Yall have some pride! Back pressure is a redneck camaro and mudslingin' concept. Dont use that term anymore!

 
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454 is a little to big to fit, but someone on the site just compleated a 350 swap w/ rear wheel drive, that puppy should move

 
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454 is to big, but one of the members here just put in a 350 w/ rwd

 
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Holy hell, that sounds fun.

 
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dude u oficially know everything in the world about flow(I dont know what to call it since it's not back pressure)

 
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ok, thanks for the lesson. much appreciated!