Only a few N/A mods to go! Will post Dyno Pics
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Only a few N/A mods to go! Will post Dyno Pics
Heya Pplz,
Well I've had my new race clutch in for a week - still breaking it in (very nice! dahm our stock clutch's suck) However my car is booked in for the 6th for the final list of mods:
-P&P head
-Machined Head
-Bored TB (throttle body)
I promise to post up Dyno pics once everything is completed. If all goes well I should have my car tuned and ready to be collected on the 10th. EDIT: going overseas - will get to my car later
Well I've had my new race clutch in for a week - still breaking it in (very nice! dahm our stock clutch's suck) However my car is booked in for the 6th for the final list of mods:
-P&P head
-Machined Head
-Bored TB (throttle body)
I promise to post up Dyno pics once everything is completed. If all goes well I should have my car tuned and ready to be collected on the 10th. EDIT: going overseas - will get to my car later
Last edited by Tomola; Jun 13, 2005 at 01:09 AM.
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Originally Posted by mradam85
what kinda clutch did you put in?
so wait, you P&P'd and machine a DX/LX head? if i were you i probably would have bought a EX head to do that to.
Last edited by Skunk2ner; May 19, 2005 at 10:54 AM.
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Rep Power: 283 Yeah I would have put in a cam and new springs retainers and done a head swap from lx to EX and pnp the EX head....wait I am doing that!!!! Guess we will see huh!!
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Originally Posted by Nokturnl
Yeah I would have put in a cam and new springs retainers and done a head swap from lx to EX and pnp the EX head....wait I am doing that!!!! Guess we will see huh!!
Yeah I was thinking about the head swap. In fact I was so keen on it! But by the time I get the cam to Australia, find the VTEC head at a wrecker get a work shop to do the swap for me (I don't have the tools) that would end up a 2 month process. So I'll have all the last mods done in 1week. Then finally install my Zex Wet Kit see how the 55shot does with the uped compression, and eventually move on to the 75.
So it should be nice I mean NA will be around 130 WHP + 75 should be making a nice 200WHP.
Last edited by Tomola; May 24, 2005 at 03:00 AM.
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Originally Posted by Tomola
Yeah I was thinking about the head swap. In fact I was so keen on it! But by the time I got the cam to Australia, found the VTEC head at a wrecker got a work shop to do the swap for me (I don't have the tools) that would end up a 2 month process. So I'll have all the last mods done in 1week. Then finally install my Zex Wet Kit see how the 55shot does with the uped compression, and eventually move on to the 75.
So it should be nice I mean NA will be around 130 WHP + 75 should be making a nice 200WHP.
So it should be nice I mean NA will be around 130 WHP + 75 should be making a nice 200WHP.
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Originally Posted by DMunny
75 shot huh...get a cam gear so you can retard your timing if needed. So......are you still planing on getting a VTEC head or not sure. That way you can tinker a little bit with the timing on your dyno runs. Your post didn't make a lot of sence to me. Anyway, I'm glad you're happy with your clutch and your other N/A Mods.
*edit* crap now i'm not making sence.
I meant to put the part about tinkering at the dyno after the sentance about getting the cam gear....excuse my Star Wars hangover. I went to the midnight show and had to be at work at 7am.
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Originally Posted by DMunny
75 shot huh...get a cam gear so you can retard your timing if needed. So......are you still planing on getting a VTEC head or not sure. That way you can tinker a little bit with the timing on your dyno runs. Your post didn't make a lot of sence to me. Anyway, I'm glad you're happy with your clutch and your other N/A Mods.
I really don’t think I’ll ever do the VTEC head swap, but if a cam comes out for the D17A1 - I will be the fisrt to jump on it!
I have the new AEM 5 bolt cam gear which will go on. I will have to retard my timing 2-4 degrees regardless of the Nitrous shot because of the machined head.
Further retarding the timing upon installing my nitrous kit, depending on the shot I will be running. I will retard around 1-2 degrees for the 55 Shot and 2-3 for the 75 shot, then again on the Dyno it could prove differently.
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Originally Posted by Tomola
The clutch is really nice, plenty of bite however it's still far from broken-in, what I mean is that it's still pulsating at low RPM engagement (yes I did get my fly wheel machined) when gently feathering around a car park for example. Exedy recommends 500 miles break in - i've only done like 80.
I really don’t think I’ll ever do the VTEC head swap, but if a cam comes out for the D17A1 - I will be the fisrt to jump on it!
I have the new AEM 5 bolt cam gear which will go on. I will have to retard my timing 2-4 degrees regardless of the Nitrous shot because of the machined head.
Further retarding the timing upon installing my nitrous kit, depending on the shot I will be running. I will retard around 1-2 degrees for the 55 Shot and 2-3 for the 75 shot, then again on the Dyno it could prove differently.
I really don’t think I’ll ever do the VTEC head swap, but if a cam comes out for the D17A1 - I will be the fisrt to jump on it!
I have the new AEM 5 bolt cam gear which will go on. I will have to retard my timing 2-4 degrees regardless of the Nitrous shot because of the machined head.
Further retarding the timing upon installing my nitrous kit, depending on the shot I will be running. I will retard around 1-2 degrees for the 55 Shot and 2-3 for the 75 shot, then again on the Dyno it could prove differently.
Also I feel that Crower will eventully come out with an A1 cam. In the thread in the Group Buy section there's a blurb about this cam is for the A2 only because there were no A1 cores blah, blah. Sounds like they are at least thinking about it.
Either way even without VTEC your ride is probably faster than mine...so far I just have an intake/exhaust. I hope I can scrounge the dough for the stage 1 cam...but I doubt that will be anytime soon.
Mad Props.....keep us posted
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Rep Power: 0 Please update after you've broken in the clutch, id like to know if it's a good choice. i've been running 50 shot on my D17 and if i stay on the bottle consistanly like i am, im gonna be needing a new clutch too. Hopefully no head gaskets!
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Originally Posted by JxL_o2Lx
Please update after you've broken in the clutch, id like to know if it's a good choice. i've been running 50 shot on my D17 and if i stay on the bottle consistanly like i am, im gonna be needing a new clutch too. Hopefully no head gaskets!
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Originally Posted by DMunny
I feel that Crower will eventully come out with an A1 cam. In the thread in the Group Buy section there's a blurb about this cam is for the A2 only because there were no A1 cores blah, blah. Sounds like they are at least thinking about it.
Mad Props.....keep us posted
Mad Props.....keep us posted
Last edited by Tomola; May 21, 2005 at 12:21 AM.
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Rep Power: 0 The Exedy Stage 1 Clutch is really good 
I drove the car fairly hard on my little trip and shifting down in the red the clutch holds like no tomorrow.
I'm stiil don't know what to do, with the head swap option! I'm going to make some calls tomorrow morning and see how much I can get an A2 head and how much I can get someone to install it for me. Sell my S-AFC II and get a V-AFC II and then get the Crower Stage II cam! All up that would come close to just doing my orignally posted mods!
I drove the car fairly hard on my little trip and shifting down in the red the clutch holds like no tomorrow.
I'm stiil don't know what to do, with the head swap option! I'm going to make some calls tomorrow morning and see how much I can get an A2 head and how much I can get someone to install it for me. Sell my S-AFC II and get a V-AFC II and then get the Crower Stage II cam! All up that would come close to just doing my orignally posted mods!
Last edited by Tomola; Jun 3, 2005 at 12:15 AM.
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I have the new AEM 5 bolt cam gear which will go on. I will have to retard my timing 2-4 degrees regardless of the Nitrous shot because of the machined head.
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Originally Posted by HeHateMe
I thought you could only adjust timing with a piggy back system like e-manage. not a cam gear because our ECU will just compensate for the new timing you just made with the gear to keep the timing stock, so Ive been told..
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Originally Posted by Eclectic
tomola, if you don't mind sharing, how much is all this costing you??
just wondering, thanks!
just wondering, thanks!
Alright so I made some calls:
So to do the SWAP
-D17A2 Head, best price $950, labour $400 (some one to do the swap for me), Sell my new S-AFC II buy V-AFC II $150, loss, Stage II cam $495, Springs+Retainers $390, $80 Shipping, Dyno Tune $200. Total $2665 Total WHP 25-35.
Do the other listed mods
-P&P $700, mill head $200, Bore TB $250, labour included, $200 Dyno Tune. Total $1350 Total WHP 18-25
*Note, prices are in AUD.
So I've finally decided to just complete the final list of mods and be done with the mods on the motor. That will get me close to 130 WHP, PLUS 55-75 shot Nitrous put me 180-200 WHP.
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Just curious how much you spending on all this? I know a guy who did all this, plus trubo. Still managed to only run like a 14.8 and all i did to mine was add a muffler, dc headers and an ingen RD cold air intake an ran a 15.8.. well untill i managed to hydrolock the engine. *word to those with intake. By the damb air bypass vavle* But the good news is althought that engine has departed this earth, i have given birth to a new monster one i like to call DC5R aka K20A overnighted from Japan (makers of the finest auto parts around!) and have transplaned that 220hp w/a lot more than 110whp. in to my car. Any one need an intake? maybe a muffler? or how about a set of dc headers. cheep! or even parts of the old engine. Just bent a connecting rod thats all.
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Originally Posted by TransformedBG
Just curious how much you spending on all this? I know a guy who did all this, plus trubo. Still managed to only run like a 14.8 and all i did to mine was add a muffler, dc headers and an ingen RD cold air intake an ran a 15.8.. well untill i managed to hydrolock the engine. *word to those with intake. By the damb air bypass vavle* But the good news is althought that engine has departed this earth, i have given birth to a new monster one i like to call DC5R aka K20A overnighted from Japan (makers of the finest auto parts around!) and have transplaned that 220hp w/a lot more than 110whp. in to my car. Any one need an intake? maybe a muffler? or how about a set of dc headers. cheep! or even parts of the old engine. Just bent a connecting rod thats all.
To me all the mods I'm doing is simply a learning exercise, to get a good feel for the whole ‘tuning’ idea as a platform for future vehicles in life. For example what happens when you do this....etc... The D17 is cheap and easy little motor to work with. Sure the gains are not massive! But after I'm finished, with around 130-35 WHP NA + a 75shot, close to 200WHP - It will be good fun to play with.
Then when I move onto my next car at this stage I'm guessing an older '01 '02 - S2000 or a newer Accord Euro, I'll know what to expect from specific modifications and so on and be able to really focus on tuning the car where it infact needs tuning!
I'm going overseas soon, and won't finish the final mods untill I get back! I'll keep ya posted people.
Last edited by Tomola; Jun 3, 2005 at 12:34 AM.
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From: CenTex
Rep Power: 281 Yeah well its a good idea, but i can tell yah you wont make it to 200whp on a naturaly asperated engine. And if your planing on running a 75 shot, you better have some serious work done. IE pnp, fuel system upgrade, and upgrade your ingnision system. if not your eaither going to blow the eninge, or burn it up. just some friendly advice. Also dont forget to change your oil after using it. You will develop methane bubbles, if you dont. NOT GOOD.
And if you really want to know what to expect, you really dont. you can get a general idea. But bolting a header to a d17 vs a b16 are going to yeild way different results. But like you said its kind of something you play around with and get the feel for. Tunning is pretty simple, but it can get expensive.
And if you really want to know what to expect, you really dont. you can get a general idea. But bolting a header to a d17 vs a b16 are going to yeild way different results. But like you said its kind of something you play around with and get the feel for. Tunning is pretty simple, but it can get expensive.
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