Got New Coilovers!!!
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Got New Coilovers!!!
Well guys, they finally came, my K Sport coilovers. I'll be installing them this weekend!! Hopefully these are just as good as the teins, but if they aren't I won't be unhappy because I only paid $700 shipped and they are 32 way damper adjustable.
Here are some pics...
I'm hopefully going to install them this weekend. The only part I'm afraid of is taking the old tie rod off the stock suspension. Gunna go check out the DIY section and see if we have anything on it. I really don't wanna rip the dust booty...
Boggie1688
Here are some pics...
I'm hopefully going to install them this weekend. The only part I'm afraid of is taking the old tie rod off the stock suspension. Gunna go check out the DIY section and see if we have anything on it. I really don't wanna rip the dust booty...
Boggie1688
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taking the tie rod off is easy, and from the looks of it you just need to disconnect it. you have to take out the pin in the bolt and then take off the nut. i believe it is a 14mm. then if you have a seperating fork put that inbetween the bushing and the place the place it bolts into and hit the end of the fork with a hammer. and it comes right off. attached is a crappy mspaint diagram. hit here is last step.
Last edited by ajhdragon; Oct 2, 2006 at 09:34 PM.
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Rep Power: 380 a hint get a buddy to help when installing the stuff back in. on the back i hard to stand on the rear drum while he put the bottom bolt back in, and on the front he helped get the bolts alligned at the top. but its a really easy install. i did my first 7th gen like a week ago(mine) took all of 2 hours for all 4. oh yeah and be careful when taking the springs off the shock cause if you don't compress them first the spring will pop and you can hurt yourself. or just do like i did lay the whole thing on its side, stand on the side of it and use an air gun.
Last edited by ajhdragon; Apr 28, 2005 at 10:32 PM.
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Rep Power: 380 back towers are easy, there are 2 bolts, roll back the carpet of the trunk and they are right there you will need an extension to get to the rear bolt of the towers.(don't remove the nut from the shock) but really easy to do. if you lived anywhere close i would come help ya out.
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http://gametrax.net/springs/ << Mex's DIY, It rules. I used it.
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Rep Power: 0 HAHA thats the one...I clearly the remember the animation of him hammering the tie rod, hence why I thought they are hard to remove...LOL
Anyone in so cal have time this weekend? LoL...
Anyone in so cal have time this weekend? LoL...
Last edited by Boggie1688; Apr 28, 2005 at 10:48 PM.
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Rep Power: 0 Quick hint on the tie rod ends; Using a pickle fork (goes in between tie rod end and strut steering arm) is usually not recomennded as it tends to tear boots and damage the ball joint. We only usually use those if the tie rod end is going to be replaced. The above image of the puller is also a bad idea as it can screw up the threads on the end of the tire rod (the threads get smashed together, it is very soft metal.) What I have always done and has always worked is just to hit the steering arm with a hammer, suspension unloaded(car is jacked up) so that way nothing really gets damaged. If you are replaceing the strut assembly, then nothing important gets hurt. If it doesnt pop off at first, get a bigger hammer or hit it harder.
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Rep Power: 334 OMGGG i have D2 racing coilovers. and those use the SAME EXACT DESIGN. Same camber plate, same pillow ball mount, same damepner adjustment sticks, SAME EXACT bendable Brake line mounting sticks.
YOurs does however come with rear top mounts, D2's dont. What yours lack vs. D2 is dust covers for the shock.
http://www.d2racing.com.tw/absorber-racing.htm
http://www.d2racing.com.tw/absorber/...IVIC%20ES1.htm
How much were the ones you got? Who sells them? I hope they ride good! let us know when you get them on!!
YOurs does however come with rear top mounts, D2's dont. What yours lack vs. D2 is dust covers for the shock.
http://www.d2racing.com.tw/absorber-racing.htm
http://www.d2racing.com.tw/absorber/...IVIC%20ES1.htm
How much were the ones you got? Who sells them? I hope they ride good! let us know when you get them on!!
Last edited by AzNmiKex215; Apr 29, 2005 at 03:32 PM.
Originally Posted by boostaddict
Quick hint on the tie rod ends; Using a pickle fork (goes in between tie rod end and strut steering arm) is usually not recomennded as it tends to tear boots and damage the ball joint. We only usually use those if the tie rod end is going to be replaced. The above image of the puller is also a bad idea as it can screw up the threads on the end of the tire rod (the threads get smashed together, it is very soft metal.) What I have always done and has always worked is just to hit the steering arm with a hammer, suspension unloaded(car is jacked up) so that way nothing really gets damaged. If you are replaceing the strut assembly, then nothing important gets hurt. If it doesnt pop off at first, get a bigger hammer or hit it harder.
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Rep Power: 0 Yea I got dust booties on the front shocks, but they don't go all they way up. They start where the threads stop and then go up a bit then stop about 2-2.5 inches away from the top.
I know they are the same as the D2, they are made in the same factory with the same specs. Everyones been racing about the ksports because they are exactly the same, but relabeled for remarketing in the usa. www.ksportusa.com is where u can get them, go to their distributor list...or talk to me. I know the ksport guy really well...hence the $700 shipped to my door, he gave them to me at a great price, cuz he wanted to get his coilovers on the market. I told him I'd help him bring business to his new company, I already go a few ppl waiting to order.
As for my install, not yet....I was hoping to have the car back this weekend, but the dealership called and said it won't be out of the body shop until monday. Sigh it sucks...
Oh and to answer someones question about the spring rate, they are:
F 11 kg? R 7 kg?
They have an application listing on their site, but they don't list it for the 01s and up...but if you look at all the other civic spring rates they are the same, so I'm going to guess they are the same. If anything I'll ask lawerence and tell you guys later...
If any of you guys are interested tell me, I'll go talk to Lawerence for you...maybe he can give my other 7th gen buddies a hook up.
I know they are the same as the D2, they are made in the same factory with the same specs. Everyones been racing about the ksports because they are exactly the same, but relabeled for remarketing in the usa. www.ksportusa.com is where u can get them, go to their distributor list...or talk to me. I know the ksport guy really well...hence the $700 shipped to my door, he gave them to me at a great price, cuz he wanted to get his coilovers on the market. I told him I'd help him bring business to his new company, I already go a few ppl waiting to order.
As for my install, not yet....I was hoping to have the car back this weekend, but the dealership called and said it won't be out of the body shop until monday. Sigh it sucks...
Oh and to answer someones question about the spring rate, they are:
F 11 kg? R 7 kg?
They have an application listing on their site, but they don't list it for the 01s and up...but if you look at all the other civic spring rates they are the same, so I'm going to guess they are the same. If anything I'll ask lawerence and tell you guys later...
If any of you guys are interested tell me, I'll go talk to Lawerence for you...maybe he can give my other 7th gen buddies a hook up.
Originally Posted by AzNmiKex215
OMGGG i have D2 racing coilovers. and those use the SAME EXACT DESIGN. Same camber plate, same pillow ball mount, same damepner adjustment sticks, SAME EXACT bendable Brake line mounting sticks.
YOurs does however come with rear top mounts, D2's dont. What yours lack vs. D2 is dust covers for the shock.
http://www.d2racing.com.tw/absorber-racing.htm
http://www.d2racing.com.tw/absorber/...IVIC%20ES1.htm
How much were the ones you got? Who sells them? I hope they ride good! let us know when you get them on!!
YOurs does however come with rear top mounts, D2's dont. What yours lack vs. D2 is dust covers for the shock.
http://www.d2racing.com.tw/absorber-racing.htm
http://www.d2racing.com.tw/absorber/...IVIC%20ES1.htm
How much were the ones you got? Who sells them? I hope they ride good! let us know when you get them on!!
Edward
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Rep Power: 0 Ok I've found out the spring rates, Lawerence is telling me 7k and 7k. He also says that all inquries should go through the dealers. I think shipped from dealers is like 800 or something, at least thats what it was the last time I checked.
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Rep Power: 334 my ride is great, I got a stiffer 9k rear becuase i usually ride pretty low. WIth lowness on these type of coilovers, you have to sacrafice shock travel. In doing so you risk bottoming out a lot and the chances increases even more if you have lots of weight in the rear (people, groceries, systems).
But the ride is very Nice. I just put 18 inch wheels on with Falken tires and i MUST say it rides better then my stock crapstones.
I am under the impression that a front wheel drive car should have softer front / stiffer rear setup.
But the ride is very Nice. I just put 18 inch wheels on with Falken tires and i MUST say it rides better then my stock crapstones.
I am under the impression that a front wheel drive car should have softer front / stiffer rear setup.
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Rep Power: 0 oHHH yea...I was going to ask you that, what are you damper settings at?
BTW I was talking to the ksport rep, he was telling me a lot of ppl install coilovers wrong. For our civics to adjust the height you actually need to turn the bracket that attaches to the disk brakes. You don't turn the perch that right below the spring because that will compress it and you lose travel or something like that. He said to change the height, the correct way you'll need to remove the coilover and turn the bottom bracket. For the rear he said it was ok to turn the top perch.
This is how you guys do it?
BTW I was talking to the ksport rep, he was telling me a lot of ppl install coilovers wrong. For our civics to adjust the height you actually need to turn the bracket that attaches to the disk brakes. You don't turn the perch that right below the spring because that will compress it and you lose travel or something like that. He said to change the height, the correct way you'll need to remove the coilover and turn the bottom bracket. For the rear he said it was ok to turn the top perch.
This is how you guys do it?
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Rep Power: 0 Hey can you post pics of your drop? How much did you drop it? What was the full length of your coilovers after your drop? I'm trying to figure how much to extend or shorten the coilovers for my drop.
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Originally Posted by Boggie1688
oHHH yea...I was going to ask you that, what are you damper settings at?
BTW I was talking to the ksport rep, he was telling me a lot of ppl install coilovers wrong. For our civics to adjust the height you actually need to turn the bracket that attaches to the disk brakes. You don't turn the perch that right below the spring because that will compress it and you lose travel or something like that. He said to change the height, the correct way you'll need to remove the coilover and turn the bottom bracket. For the rear he said it was ok to turn the top perch.
This is how you guys do it?
BTW I was talking to the ksport rep, he was telling me a lot of ppl install coilovers wrong. For our civics to adjust the height you actually need to turn the bracket that attaches to the disk brakes. You don't turn the perch that right below the spring because that will compress it and you lose travel or something like that. He said to change the height, the correct way you'll need to remove the coilover and turn the bottom bracket. For the rear he said it was ok to turn the top perch.
This is how you guys do it?
Type:1
[D2 Racing | K sport | Tein Basic | Tein SS ]
Coilover only has 2 locking perch nuts. Those nuts affect both spring load and height. Height is adjusted by lowering the perch, therefore lowering the shocks travel, moreover reducing ride quality and bottom out insurance.
Type:2
[JIC MAGIC | BuddyCLUB | Tein FLEX]
Coilover has 3 locking perch nuts. The top two only affect spring load. The 3rd and last locknut on the bottom, allows for the entire shock body to move up and down changing ride hieght but not affecting shock travel. This is better becuase the ride quality would be the same for all heights.
Any of the Gurus care to chime and and correct me if im wrong? Boilermaker? Rob Clark?
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Rep Power: 334 My setup is like this:
Wheels: BuddyClub P1 Racing rims wit +43 offest
Tires: 215/40/18 Falken Ziex 512
Supsension: D2 racing coilovers
Settings:
Dampening: (starting from fully soft; turned all the way to the left first)
FRONT: 1 Turn harder [clockwise]
REAR: 1.5 Turns harder [clockwise]
Height: (Counted from the bottom thread to the one directly under the bottom lock nut when tightened)
FRONT: 7 or 8 inch Spring. Perch is raised up exactly 13 Threads.
REAR: 6 inch spring. Perch is raised up exaclty 14 Threads.
The wheel gap is between 1 and 1.5 inches all around. I do not rub anywhere. Hope this helps!
*BIg tip, WHen tightening the lock nuts, especially for the fronts. Get a hammer and tap the lock nuts tightley into place. They WILL COME LOOSE if you dont do this.
Wheels: BuddyClub P1 Racing rims wit +43 offest
Tires: 215/40/18 Falken Ziex 512
Supsension: D2 racing coilovers
Settings:
Dampening: (starting from fully soft; turned all the way to the left first)
FRONT: 1 Turn harder [clockwise]
REAR: 1.5 Turns harder [clockwise]
Height: (Counted from the bottom thread to the one directly under the bottom lock nut when tightened)
FRONT: 7 or 8 inch Spring. Perch is raised up exactly 13 Threads.
REAR: 6 inch spring. Perch is raised up exaclty 14 Threads.
The wheel gap is between 1 and 1.5 inches all around. I do not rub anywhere. Hope this helps!
*BIg tip, WHen tightening the lock nuts, especially for the fronts. Get a hammer and tap the lock nuts tightley into place. They WILL COME LOOSE if you dont do this.
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Rep Power: 0 Hmm...the ksport guy was telling me the front coilovers have 2 perches yes, but there bottom of the shock that has the bracket that holes the disk brakes and also is welded to the mount that connects to the tire rod completely turn.
Look at this pic:
Ok you see A? Ksport rep says never turn that, unless your only adjusting up and down a few turns to change the feel of the spring. B is to help lock A in place. C is to adjust the entire overall length of the coilover. I know you coilovers are installed on your car soo you really can't take them out and test. But I have mine, and I assure you C can rotate entirely...and it does actually change the overal length of the coilover! I think this is so that you don't make your springs harder or softer, you can change your height but maintain the same stiffness on the springs. Then if you do want to make your springs harder aka "feel of the springs" you adjust A slightly up or down to achieve what you want. The C just helps A keep from moving.
Look at this pic:
Ok you see A? Ksport rep says never turn that, unless your only adjusting up and down a few turns to change the feel of the spring. B is to help lock A in place. C is to adjust the entire overall length of the coilover. I know you coilovers are installed on your car soo you really can't take them out and test. But I have mine, and I assure you C can rotate entirely...and it does actually change the overal length of the coilover! I think this is so that you don't make your springs harder or softer, you can change your height but maintain the same stiffness on the springs. Then if you do want to make your springs harder aka "feel of the springs" you adjust A slightly up or down to achieve what you want. The C just helps A keep from moving.
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Rep Power: 0 Wow now i'm HELL confused, I went and double check. They didn't change in length....its like a god damn optical allusion. You see the thread area between C and perch B? That area grew a lot when I turned C but the overal length of the coilover didn't change at all....??? HUH?!?!?!?! My other coilover which I didn't turn thread area between B and C is the unchanged, I left it the way I got it. One has more thread showing, but they are the same overall length!!!
The other thing I notice was the amount of thread inside the center of the spring became less. Instead of going up the the 4 coil, it is now down to the 3...the other coilover which I didn't change goes up to the 4 coil.
Can anyone explain?
The other thing I notice was the amount of thread inside the center of the spring became less. Instead of going up the the 4 coil, it is now down to the 3...the other coilover which I didn't change goes up to the 4 coil.
Can anyone explain?
