Weight reduction in preocess *Pics*
Weight reduction in preocess *Pics*
Well in the never ending quest for better 1/4 mile times and free horsepower I am gutting the car. I have removed the rear seats and everything in the trunk. I am in the process of removing the sound reduction tar from the trunk,floor, under the carpet and firwall. I am saving it all to weigh in the end to let everyone know if it is really worth the effort. I will also be spraying the bare metal showing in the back black to match.Here are some pics of the process so far.
My SL65 rim, because a rim is all I can afford
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I did that to one of my older civics.... didn't help much in the 1/4, maybe .1 or so. Sure helped in handling though.
yeah I think it makes a difference. I'll get on the scale and weigh everything I removed. when I go out to run I remove the passenger seat and that seat and bracket is pretty heavy. with what I have taken out it's about the difference of racing with a passenger and not.
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From: so cal djmota=oscar
Rep Power: 324 I have always wondered what the sound deadining material wieghed. Are you using the dry ice technique or just scraping it out? kepp us posted 
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Rep Power: 302 Remember to race on near empty gas, that could kill your efforts. Also, take out the passenger seat if you are going to the track you can always put it in. Take out the plastic center console around the shift assembly.
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Rep Power: 284 Glove box can go to, Fuse cover, carpet, headliner. In the engine...Windshield wipers, wiper hoses, wiper motor, hood prop(??), Fuse cover, valve cover, winshield fluid reservoir.
Last time I had this much fun some furniture got broken!
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Originally Posted by Jeffsta17
TAKE OFF YOUR BRAKES!!!!!!!!!! j/k i dunno man gutting ur car is cool for race, but im all show lol.
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From: Harker heights Tx
Rep Power: 389 all that material weighs in around 26lbs when its fully gutted. Andrew the "BEAR" has a 6 sec hacthback that has been stripped and thats about what it averages in most cars. If your running the strip it may be worth it, but a daily driver I just don't see the hassle is worth it
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Rep Power: 0 My coupe is stripped and caged, the only thing left really is most of the stock dash minus all the guts, in the place of the HVAC are all the fan, ignition, power, fuel pump switches and oil, and water gauges. Chucking everything and basically only putting in a racing seat, harnass, cage, fire bottle, and nessecery electronic bits nets a good bit of savings. Remember cages are heavy so they take up alot of weight that you just took out but the stiffness that you gain is worth it in spades.
If you're using a full length exhaust you're carrying about 20lbs of ballast, cut it off just under the passenger seat and stick on a turndown with a little resonator. Chuck the stock seats and get a fixed back race seat with side mounts for a hefty loss. If you don't already have an intake chuck all the scilencer boxes under the hood, they weigh quite a bit. Get aluminum body coilovers, they're worth 5+lbs per corner over stock steel bits. Hollow swaybars are the only way to go, chuck all those crappy rubber bushings and go to solid wherever you can. Use solid upper shock mounts(tien pillowball), they are way lighter than the rubber bushed stock type. Get a racing battery, that's worth 10lbs or so. Go crazy and do plastic windows, C/F hood(a superthin racing type, not those OE replacements. Ditch the 18's for a set of light weight 15's. The list goes on and on.
My HX coupe's down to a mere 2115lbs on a full tank of gas with an EX engine and tranny and mainly I/H/E and it will give a modded GSR a run for it's money in a line and destroy it in the corners. Light = Fast
If you're using a full length exhaust you're carrying about 20lbs of ballast, cut it off just under the passenger seat and stick on a turndown with a little resonator. Chuck the stock seats and get a fixed back race seat with side mounts for a hefty loss. If you don't already have an intake chuck all the scilencer boxes under the hood, they weigh quite a bit. Get aluminum body coilovers, they're worth 5+lbs per corner over stock steel bits. Hollow swaybars are the only way to go, chuck all those crappy rubber bushings and go to solid wherever you can. Use solid upper shock mounts(tien pillowball), they are way lighter than the rubber bushed stock type. Get a racing battery, that's worth 10lbs or so. Go crazy and do plastic windows, C/F hood(a superthin racing type, not those OE replacements. Ditch the 18's for a set of light weight 15's. The list goes on and on.
My HX coupe's down to a mere 2115lbs on a full tank of gas with an EX engine and tranny and mainly I/H/E and it will give a modded GSR a run for it's money in a line and destroy it in the corners. Light = Fast
Originally Posted by Sdcivic549
My coupe is stripped and caged, the only thing left really is most of the stock dash minus all the guts, in the place of the HVAC are all the fan, ignition, power, fuel pump switches and oil, and water gauges. Chucking everything and basically only putting in a racing seat, harnass, cage, fire bottle, and nessecery electronic bits nets a good bit of savings. Remember cages are heavy so they take up alot of weight that you just took out but the stiffness that you gain is worth it in spades.
If you're using a full length exhaust you're carrying about 20lbs of ballast, cut it off just under the passenger seat and stick on a turndown with a little resonator. Chuck the stock seats and get a fixed back race seat with side mounts for a hefty loss. If you don't already have an intake chuck all the scilencer boxes under the hood, they weigh quite a bit. Get aluminum body coilovers, they're worth 5+lbs per corner over stock steel bits. Hollow swaybars are the only way to go, chuck all those crappy rubber bushings and go to solid wherever you can. Use solid upper shock mounts(tien pillowball), they are way lighter than the rubber bushed stock type. Get a racing battery, that's worth 10lbs or so. Go crazy and do plastic windows, C/F hood(a superthin racing type, not those OE replacements. Ditch the 18's for a set of light weight 15's. The list goes on and on.
My HX coupe's down to a mere 2115lbs on a full tank of gas with an EX engine and tranny and mainly I/H/E and it will give a modded GSR a run for it's money in a line and destroy it in the corners. Light = Fast
If you're using a full length exhaust you're carrying about 20lbs of ballast, cut it off just under the passenger seat and stick on a turndown with a little resonator. Chuck the stock seats and get a fixed back race seat with side mounts for a hefty loss. If you don't already have an intake chuck all the scilencer boxes under the hood, they weigh quite a bit. Get aluminum body coilovers, they're worth 5+lbs per corner over stock steel bits. Hollow swaybars are the only way to go, chuck all those crappy rubber bushings and go to solid wherever you can. Use solid upper shock mounts(tien pillowball), they are way lighter than the rubber bushed stock type. Get a racing battery, that's worth 10lbs or so. Go crazy and do plastic windows, C/F hood(a superthin racing type, not those OE replacements. Ditch the 18's for a set of light weight 15's. The list goes on and on.
My HX coupe's down to a mere 2115lbs on a full tank of gas with an EX engine and tranny and mainly I/H/E and it will give a modded GSR a run for it's money in a line and destroy it in the corners. Light = Fast
Originally Posted by Sdcivic549
My coupe is stripped and caged, the only thing left really is most of the stock dash minus all the guts, in the place of the HVAC are all the fan, ignition, power, fuel pump switches and oil, and water gauges. Chucking everything and basically only putting in a racing seat, harnass, cage, fire bottle, and nessecery electronic bits nets a good bit of savings. Remember cages are heavy so they take up alot of weight that you just took out but the stiffness that you gain is worth it in spades.
If you're using a full length exhaust you're carrying about 20lbs of ballast, cut it off just under the passenger seat and stick on a turndown with a little resonator. Chuck the stock seats and get a fixed back race seat with side mounts for a hefty loss. If you don't already have an intake chuck all the scilencer boxes under the hood, they weigh quite a bit. Get aluminum body coilovers, they're worth 5+lbs per corner over stock steel bits. Hollow swaybars are the only way to go, chuck all those crappy rubber bushings and go to solid wherever you can. Use solid upper shock mounts(tien pillowball), they are way lighter than the rubber bushed stock type. Get a racing battery, that's worth 10lbs or so. Go crazy and do plastic windows, C/F hood(a superthin racing type, not those OE replacements. Ditch the 18's for a set of light weight 15's. The list goes on and on.
My HX coupe's down to a mere 2115lbs on a full tank of gas with an EX engine and tranny and mainly I/H/E and it will give a modded GSR a run for it's money in a line and destroy it in the corners. Light = Fast
If you're using a full length exhaust you're carrying about 20lbs of ballast, cut it off just under the passenger seat and stick on a turndown with a little resonator. Chuck the stock seats and get a fixed back race seat with side mounts for a hefty loss. If you don't already have an intake chuck all the scilencer boxes under the hood, they weigh quite a bit. Get aluminum body coilovers, they're worth 5+lbs per corner over stock steel bits. Hollow swaybars are the only way to go, chuck all those crappy rubber bushings and go to solid wherever you can. Use solid upper shock mounts(tien pillowball), they are way lighter than the rubber bushed stock type. Get a racing battery, that's worth 10lbs or so. Go crazy and do plastic windows, C/F hood(a superthin racing type, not those OE replacements. Ditch the 18's for a set of light weight 15's. The list goes on and on.
My HX coupe's down to a mere 2115lbs on a full tank of gas with an EX engine and tranny and mainly I/H/E and it will give a modded GSR a run for it's money in a line and destroy it in the corners. Light = Fast
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