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Okay i am getting 1 kicker SB for my car. its the older model 12" that are circles, it not the square kind.its 1000w sub... I want an amp that will pump the bitch loud but not over power my stock deck . Wat amp would u recommend, i am on a limited budget. And anyone know if this is a good sub?? ANy input welcome

 
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http://www.overstock.com/cgi-bin/d2....PROD_ID=464948

is that a good one?

 
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pardon me by saying....ewww

try something more along the lines of this or this

 
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^both are too strong dont u think for a 1000w sub and stock deck?

 
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no they arent to strong...that 1000watt is rms probally i dont remember the older SB rating your peak is probally close to 1800watts if not more. plus its usally always a good idea to get a strong amp...you can always turn the gain down but if u have a underpowered amp you cant always turn it up to get the full potential of that speaker.

 
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so it wont blow my deck or other speakers?

 
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the deck sends the signal to the amp...the amp dont send it to the deck. I have never heard of a deck blowing up due to any amp.

And I doubt either of those amps would blow the speakers as long as you wire it right and put the gain where its suppose to be. You could blow your speaker with a 100watt amp if you dont wire it correctly. Well it is a little hard with that but it can be done.

 
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Dude! u cant over power a radio are u ****ing retarded? The amp makes it own power. That sub is not a 1000rms that other guy is a **** off for saying so, it probably 1000peak and 400-500rms. all you need is an amp that is around 500x1 rms @ 4ohms. Just go to ebay or some place and look at the amps and see how much they push RMS into 1 channel. also you are going to need an amp kit (4 or 8ga) and a line out converter for your stock deck which splices in with the wires for your speakers.

 
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Okay....calm down turbo..

 
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sorry I just get irritated at people who dont know about car audio. Sorry I am obsessed with it and used to sell it and install it

 
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haha this kid got to be kidding me right. For one i said i dont remember the older series so i wasnt sure. But i just looked it up and rms for those was 500 peak is 1000 so yes u was right. And just because i didnt remember a freakin 5 year old speakers power handling dont mean i dont know anything about car audio i probally know more then you but lets not sit here and argue about that. So be a little less d*ck or well get the f*ck off the forum.

cjddrum1 the amp u listed i still wouldnt get. that hifonics amp is a beast and if u wanted to add another you could and its cheap also. But the first amp i listed is still a good one. It would be pretty pointless to get the other one i listed. these speakers are like 5 years old i can barely remember what happened yesterday forgive for forgetting how much watts a 5 year old solo baric can handle. either way.

 
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haha its cool....so that hifonics amp is good? even though its got more pwr than the sub?

 
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ya its straight...like i said before its better to have to much cause u can turn the gain down then be underpowered...plus if you decided to get another one or different speakers then u wont have to buy another amp. Its usally good to look ahead then right now.

 
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Alrihght cool thanks

 
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to tell u the truth i didnt even know what the rms and peak was but 1000rms and 1800 peak just seemed a little unreasonable. are those things DVC? U might want to get an amp with a bass **** so that you can control the volume of the bass w/o going into the trunk. No love lost, its all good

 
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Ya i think they are i dont really remember they are some old speakers. I was just guessing on the peak cause most the time people will say "its 500 watts" but that means there rms so peak u usally go up a bit. So it was just a guess.

That HiFonics BX1500D comes with a bass ****.

 
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Ya i want a bass ****

 
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if its a "circle" solobaric, i dont think its a solobaric. to my knowledge, solo barics are only the square kind. are you sure its not a comp or comp vr? you may be correct tho, im not very familiar with kicker's older stuff. (i just got my solobaric L7 3 weeks ago. i love it. just figured id let everyone know )

having an amp too strong for a sub isnt good either tho. if i were you, id look into an audiobahn a8002t on ebay. thats the amp i have and i got it for around $180 shipped. if you do decide to go with that amp, id reccomend going thru an ebay deal by the name of indoaudio. i had a problem with my amp shortly after i got it, and they replaced it for free, no questions asked. the amp runs 2 channels at 400w rms each (which would be close to perfect for the sub you have) at 2 ohm, and if you later upgrade to a higher powered sub you can bridge the audio channels for 800w rms at 4 ohm.

the resistance (ohms) of your system is an important thing to consider. if you have a sub that runs at 2 ohms and you have an amp trying to push 4 ohms into it, youre going to have a problem with your amp getting hot very quickly. i neglected to make sure everything matched up resistance-wise in my first system. i had bought everything used from a friend and didnt know much about car audio at the time. my sub ran at a lower ohms than my amp did, and i constantly had a problem with my amp getting too hot and shutting down. all this would happen within a matter of 15-20 minutes, even with the system only at a moderate volume.

as ive come to find out, it deffinetly pays off to thouroughly research and plan out your system before you start putting it together.

 
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Well does anyone know what the old solo baric subs run in ohms? ^thx for the tip, im definatley gonna look into that audiobahn amp...how fast was shipping with that dealer?

 
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The original Solo baric Was Round...they came out with the square ones if i remember right about 4 years ago or so.

Please explain how having a bigger amp hurts a speaker when there is something called gain. You turn your radio to 90% of the volume then turn the gain down until you dont have distortion then turn it a bit more down. You can stick a damn 2000watt amp on your stock speakers (it would be pointless) and it wouldnt hurt the speakers.

Wiring the amp is the important thing. It depends on how you wire it for the ohms.

Cjddrum1 u gonna have to look up on i think its the magnet that says what model # the sub is and right there it will tell you the ohms u should run. If my memory is correct they came in 2,4 and 8 ohm solo barics.

hehe and the amp i suggested him up ^ was on ebay and from indoaudio and it had his bass ****

 
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Whats the deal with links to all of these off brand amps? Why not get an amp that is recognized in the industry like an MTX or JL Audio? I mean that is just my preference! I owned two foreign amps( amps manufactured in other countries) Kenwood and Visonik and didnt get great results with them. They rate the power capabilities of their amps in "peak" power which is what you get for about a half of a second or less when the voltage of your cars electrical system spikes temporarily. So why pay for power that your not really getting? American amps like MTX and JL rate the power of their amps in "RMS" or continuous power which you can use because that is the voltage your car normally runs at. I guess it depends on what your looking for in an amp as well. The MTX and JL's slam hard! Now dont get me wrong, there are good foreign amps but they arent readily available at circuit city or best buy and cost a pretty penny. Both MTX and JL have ports for bass ***** to plug into! But if these arent what your looking for then choose what's best for you! I have owned both and would reccomend them to people who listen to their music the same way I do LOUD

 
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You never heard of HiFonics nor audiobahn...they are like the oldest electronics companies around. They been making amps and subs longer than mtx, JL, Kicker, any other brand names u want to go with. Why does it have to be a "brand name". A lot of times there are better things then brand names...Have you heard of RE...they hit hard if not harder (depends on your opinion) then JL W7's and are less expesnsive. Dont get into all the hype about only brand names.

 
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My turntable is made by hi fi electronics! and of course everyone knows about audiobahn but Im just relaying the fact that i havent had good results with certain foreign amps. Im not trying to come across as an audio expert im just giving my opinion! Isnt that what these forums are about? Ask a knowledgeable sales associate at your local car audio shop about the rule of thumb when purchasing an amp. "You should pay at least as much for the amp as its nominal or "RMS" power rating! in other words "a dollar per watt of RMS power" So if the amp can run 500 watts of continuous power then it should cost you about 500! and trust me after owning an amp that cost only 600 dollars and claimed to run 1000 watts continuously and then owning an amp that cost 530 dollars and ran at 500 watts continuously i firmly believe in that statment! but it is just my opinon so you can take it or ignore it!

 
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yes they are here for peoples opinions...and i was giving you a answer to your question (Whats the deal with links to all of these off brand amps?)

I will never ask a sales associate cause they are usally always people who know very little about car audio...and what they do know is the "brand names" or only what they sell. And really u shouldnt go buy the dollar a watt thing cause u are paying to much. it doesnt matter how much u spend on something just because its the most expesinve doesnt make it the best.

 
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Thats what I meant by knowledgeable! Not car toys or circuit city! A shop that deals solely with car audio and nothing else! And yes the dollar a watt rule may seem expensive but if you want quality you have to pay for it and as the saying goes you get what you pay for! and yes the brand name companies do mark up their products because of the name. This is getting off topic but put it this way, your looking for a car and you notice a base honda civic costs a tad more than a base hundayi which one are you gonna choose! both will get you where you need to go and the hundayi may even be putting down more power but whats in a name? Alot? Little? You decide!

 
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no you dont have to pay for quality if you know what your doing. or where to get it cheaper do your research on the product dont go off of..."oh well this lighting audio it $2200 and its 2200 watts so it must be good" its not a good forumla just do your research before you buy.

 
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sorry guyz i didnt mean to strew the thread off topic!

 
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yes, there is something called gain, but when you change the power output of the amp, you also change how many ohms it is putting out. in the case of the audiobahn amp i mentioned, it will run 2 x 200w rms at 4 ohm, or 2 x 400w rms at 2 ohm (adjusting the gain **** to achieve different wattage outputs). SO if you had a 1000w rms at 2 ohm amp running to a 500w rms sub and you turned the gain down halfway, your ohms would double. there is nothing wrong with this as long as the sub is of the 4 ohm variety, but if you had a 2 ohm sub, you would experience problems similar to what i mentioned in my last post.

 
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To Everyone on this Post.

1. Yes you can get good power from a cheap amp. It may not always be the cleanest (free of distortion) but it will work a speaker no problem.

2. You can over power a speaker. Run 2000 watts through a speaker ment for 50 and you get a small fire as the voice coil over heats and burns.

3. Gain is not a wattage agaustment or a volume ****. It is designed to match the output of the deck to the input of the amp with the lowest amount of distortion possible.

4. To hook an amp to a factory deck you need what is called a high level input. So your amp can get an input signal from a deck with no RCA outputs.

 
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Where can i get one and how much they cost?