Rep Power: 0

Hi, I wan't to add some good sound to my new civic. MY budget is my primary concern. I don't wan't absolute crap thought either. I intend to use a 10W6 series 1 that was given to me. I wan't to buy some speakers soon, I am gonna put up another thread after this on those. My question is, does anyone know a good 5 channel I can use to power my fronts, rears and single sub. OR, anyone think Im better off just powering the rears from the radio and getting a 4 channel for the fronts and sub? THanks in advance everyone.

 
Rep Power: 608

jl audio 500/5

 
Rep Power: 786

Phoenix Gold Octane-R 9.0:5

 
Rep Power: 0

Cool, i'll look up both of em. SO does that mean you guys don't think I'd be better off with a 4 channel instead?

I was also thinking about a HIFONICS Zues and running it 2 x 200 Watts + 1 x 300 Watts @ 4 Ohms and turing the gains way down for the components.

I was also thinking maybe Sound Stream Van Gogh VGA 800.5

 
Rep Power: 296

Crossfire VR705D
JL 500/5

Id stay the F&$# away from current soundstream.

 
Rep Power: 0

Yes, I do. Especially given that you are on a budget.

 
Rep Power: 292

jl 500/5 - 900 bucks but from what I've heard completely worth it

 
Rep Power: 310

JL 450/4
Dual power supplies makes it possible to run 75w into the components and 300w bridged to a woofer. Sounds perfect to me. Should be able to find it for under $400 I think. Run the fill of the deck.

 
Rep Power: 786

damn $900 USD for any amp is too much I don't care what brand name is silkscreened on it. For like half the price I'm sure you can find an amp that is just as good

 
Rep Power: 310

?? You're not talking about the 450/4 are you?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...725381553&rd=1

 
Rep Power: 304

it will be hard to find a 5 channel amp that has 400rms watts for the 5th (sub) channel.

just get 2 amps....1 for sub 1 for speakers

 
Rep Power: 0

Why does he need 400 watts for a 10w6? He'd be fine with the 300 that he'd get from the 450/4.

 
Rep Power: 310

I believe you checked specs from JL and neglected to realize that he has a 10W6V1 not a V2. 300rms for the V1. Hence my 450/4 suggestion being a perfect solution.

 
Rep Power: 0

Yeah, the JL 4 channel sounds good and you can just power the rear with the deck. I myself was looking for a 5 channel amp because I thought it would be less wiring and more compact. Kicker's KX700.5 was an amp I was going to buy. I was planning to bridge 4 channels to get 150x2 rms and run the 5th ch at 2 ohms for 400 watts rms. This would have cost me about $330 off of ebay. The JL 5 channel is way too costly and only powers the rear with 25watts. Might as well get a 3 channel amp.

I moved away from the 5 ch amp idea because I wasn't sure how bridging 4 channels for the front speakers would sound, since it would be running in mono instead of stereo. It will cost you about the same price for 2 separate amps, and just a little more wiring and space. Those 5 channel amps are usually huge anyhow. Plus a couple of people have told me that by buying 2 amps, if one breaks down, it would be cheaper to replace. I guess I don't trust "all-in-one" stuff.

 
Rep Power: 608

who told u that?
it's 5 channels. that means 4 sep channels for the 4 corner speakers. in stereo. would be kinda useless to have a 5 channel amp all running mono.

 
Rep Power: 306

What about the JL Audio E6450, about 300 dollars and provides decent output.

Simple, all the crossovers you need, and decent power for a W6. Not the most power, but on a budget, it is a good amp.

 
Rep Power: 0

I guess what I said was confusing. It's hard to find a good 3 channel amp that had enough power for the front components. So I planned to get a 5 channel amp to bridge the 4 speaker channels into two channels getting 150watts x 2 at 4 ohms mono. My Kicker Resolutions handle 100 watts rms, so I didn't think over powering that much would be a big deal. But I liked how the subwoofer channel ran at 400watts at 2 ohms. So my lame plan of getting a strong 3 channel amp by bridging the 5 channel wasn't too bad I guess. But I'm over it.

 
Rep Power: 310

I am somewhat confused. Are you saying you intend to take a 5 channel amp and use one channel to power a subwoofer. Then take the other 4 channels and bridge them into 2 channels to run your components. And that you expect your unbridged, channel 5 to run at 400w x 1 @2, and your bridged 4 channels to stay at 4oms???

 
Rep Power: 0

excuse me?
we forget about the memphis belle



75x4, 1100x1

 
Rep Power: 310

Its too small

 
Rep Power: 0

Ludlamtheory i've been told by others that you are an expert here. someone also said that you maybe had infinity kappas and cdt cls at one point in time, if so can you recomend the better fo the two. and if you read the beginning of this post could i get your opinoion on an amp to run my fronts and a single 10w6 series 1 sub? thank you.

 
Rep Power: 0

That's exactly what I was thinking of doing. I actually asked on this forum once or PMed someone whether or not I can run the bridged channels and subwoofer channel at different impedances. I didn't really get an answer, so I just gave up on that idea. But, from your response, it seems like it was not possible...haha.

I guess it's strange to me that you can make a 4channel amp into a 3 channel amp and run the bridged channels at a different impedance. An example is after bridging, it can only run at 4 ohms, while the other two channels can run at 4 or 2 ohms stereo.

 
Rep Power: 0

Here are the specs of the newer kx700.5.

Model KX700.5
Power (WATTS/CHANNEL), 2 Ohm Stereo 85 x 4
Power (WATTS/CHANNEL), 4 Ohm Bridged Mono 165 x 2
Power (WATTS), Class D 2 Ohm Mono 420 Remote Bass Control Yes
Fan Cooling Yes
Length With Shroud (IN., CM) 22-1/2, 57.2
Width With Shroud (IN., CM) 10, 25.4
Height With Shroud (IN., CM) 2-1/2, 6.35

 
Rep Power: 310

Well, the issue was that if you hypethetically did bridged 4 channels into 2, the speakers wouldn't be at 4ohm unless they were 8ohms to start. Whereas bridging effectively appears to halve the impedance of the speakers to the amp. This isn't exactly how it works but for now just look at it like that, the effect is the same. So, heres a for-instance to help you understand:

- a 4ohm sub run off channel 1 would still yeild 4 ohms, not 2 as you eluded.
- 4 ohm components run off any bridged channels (as you said, 4 into 2) would effectively be Halved into 2ohm loads as far as the amp is concerned.
- The power would be greater to the components than it would to the sub.

If I am right in assuming you wanted to run a set of components and a sub off a multichannel amp, you should be using a 4 channel amp, run into 3 channels by running 2 channels into the components and brigeing the other 2 into 1 to run the sub. The comps get a 4ohm load, the sub looks like a 2ohm load, the comps get 75wx2@4, the sub gets 300x1@2. Thats the right way to use a multi-channel amp to power fronts and a sub. And if you are looking for a good one, the JL 450/4 is great, but kinda pricey.

 
Rep Power: 310

Or the Belle as Ludlam showed you up top, 75x4 and 1100x1. Thats a lotta AMP.

 
Rep Power: 0

Okay, I'm a total noob in audio...haha. I guess I misunderstood JL's wiring diagram. I thought that you can wire a dual 4-ohm subwoofer in parallel and the amplifier's dedicated mono channel would see it as 2 ohms.

Plus, I did not know bridging would effect the impedance of the wiring. I thought bridging just reduces the resistance you are allowed to wire the speakers. I'm pretty lost now, because what knowledge I thought I had was crap...haha.

You know what even more confuses me. You said that bridging the 4 channels would cause me to run the components (which have an impedance of 4 ohms) at 2 ohms.
Here's a quote from Kicker's manual about the kx700.5.
"The KX700.5 is capable of bridged operation on AMP 1 and AMP 2. This, for example, would allow you to bridge AMP 1 to run the
Right side and AMP 2 to run the Left side. You will need to use 2 RCA Y-Adapters for this configuration. Remember AMP 1 and
AMP 2 are only stable down to 4 ohm in this configuration." So I guess bridging is useless for this amp, since not many speakers are 8 ohms that I know of. And not many people would be bridging this amp for subwoofers, that is just stupid because they should have gotten a 4 channel instead.

 
Rep Power: 0

That is one big *** amp.

One more thing. You said I would want a 4 channel amp to bridge 2 channels to run the sub. That has been the route I have chosen, but your impedance number of 2 ohms doesn't make sense to me. Here is the stats of the JL 450/4 amp.

Channels 1&2 :
stereo mode:
150 W RMS x 2 @ 1.5 ohm – 4 ohm
(11 – 14.5V)
bridged mode:
300 W RMS x 1 @ 3 ohm – 8 ohm
(11 – 14.5V)
Channels 3&4:
stereo mode:
75 W RMS x 2 @ 1.5 ohm – 4 ohm
(11 – 14.5V)
bridged mode:
150 W RMS x 1 @ 3 ohm – 8 ohm
(11 – 14.5V)

In bridged mode, it only list the power between 3-8 ohms. So I thought this meant that in bridged mode, it is only stable down to 3 ohms and higher. Therefore, you can't wire a DVC 4 ohm sub in parallel or the amp would fry seeing 2 ohms. Please help me, is my logic wrong?

 
Rep Power: 310

Why kicker is stupid:

The KX700.5 is capable of bridged operation on AMP 1 and AMP 2. True

This, for example, would allow you to bridge AMP 1 to run the Right side and AMP 2 to run the Left side. True

Remember AMP 1 and AMP 2 are only stable down to 4 ohm in this configuration." This is the important part.

The reason they say this here is becasue this only works with 8ohm components. Notice that they say the right side and left side, but dont' say anything about what they are powering, subs, components, raw drivers, etc? Lets say you had two 8ohm 6.5" subwoofers in the doors, this would be great. See, even though, the load is not ACTUALLY reduced by 50% by bridging, barring any sort of technical babble we can say that EFFECTIVELY the amp sees half the impedence. So a 4ohm speaker bridged to 2 channels of an amp will show the amp 2ohms per channel, thats what is important as far as what the stability of the amp is. You can bridge the channels the way it is described but if you do, you will not have a bridged sub channel. You will just have the regular 1 channel and the impedence will be whatever the speaker is to begin with and the power will not be doubled or quadrupled, it will be whatever the amp is rated at.
Now, as far as the JL is concerned, you are right by saying that Jls 450/4 is only technically stable down to 3ohm. Is it safe at 2ohm? I dont know I never tried it, maybe someone else can tell you. Therefore, you're also correct about the 4ohm DVC in Parallel would be a 2ohm load. But bridging an amp to it makes it look like a 1ohm load, that it is definitley not stable for. It would only be a 2 ohm load still if you connected it to ONE of the channels, no bridging involved. However, a 4ohm with the VC in series will give you 8, the bridge will make it 4ohm. The biggest thing I wanted you to realize is that you would rather bridge channels of an amp to a sub than you would to a set of components, the components need less power or power manipulation in this case. If you are only looking to power fronts and subs, look into using 2, 2-channels, one briged the other night. Say the were 300w amps. Run your rt and lt off one amp, 150w/side @ 4ohm and bridge the other amp to the sub, 300w.

 
Rep Power: 0

ok
let me start
1 - in my personal opinion cl61 > kappa
why:
infinity kappa's dont know what anything below 200hz is. youll be losing a big ol gap in your midbass. another option to look into in this price range is the Resonant Engineering RE series components. i think they go for 175 and seem to be damn good bang for the buck

2 - 10w6 = dual 6 ohm coils,
this leaves you a 3 ohm load which leaves your options pretty low, one being the jl 450/4.

3 - i forgot what else you asked, so remind me.

 
Rep Power: 0

Thats all i really asked unless you want to tell me what your best suggestion would be for my setup for an amp. its helped that you told me tht the jl 450.4 was an option but im wondering what an expert would choose if you know of other amps that would be better or less money than the jl. j-187 mentioned that jl 450.4 before but when i checked it was very very expensive. He or someone said you might have a better suggestion. thanks a lot, i've been helped tons so far.