What's your A/F ratio like?
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From: OKC, Oklahoma, US
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I take it that you're using your stock o2 sensor. It really isn't very accurate.
Everyone's gauge that is hooked to the stock narrowband sensor will bounce around a lot, if you want to really find out what your a/f ratio is like, go to a dyno or use a wideband sensor/controller on the street to see what your ratio is.
Everyone's gauge that is hooked to the stock narrowband sensor will bounce around a lot, if you want to really find out what your a/f ratio is like, go to a dyno or use a wideband sensor/controller on the street to see what your ratio is.
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From: OKC, Oklahoma, US
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If you want the ability to see what your ratio really is on the street, you can get a portable wideband, like AEM's UEGO gauge combo, or Innovate Motorsport's LM-1 unit. I have the LM-1 unit in my car, and it's great. Datalogging and extremely accurate, and you can download the logs to a computer to see your a/f ratio vs RPM and load.
Both of those units are around $400, but if you're going to have a turbo and do any of the tuning yourself, you'll need one or the other.
Both of those units are around $400, but if you're going to have a turbo and do any of the tuning yourself, you'll need one or the other.
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Those gauges are absolute crap and even mess up the O2 sensor over time. You need a wideband to measure a/f at wot. Some places sell modded gauges or digital.
http://www.gadgetseller.com/gauges/modifiedproducts.htm
http://www.gadgetseller.com/gauges/modifiedproducts.htm
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From: so cal djmota=oscar
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Originally Posted by Havok2k1
why even waste your time and money?
PLX makes a good one also.
Originally Posted by opto_isolator
Get a PLX devices wideband. Mine cost $370 for their top model with an adaptor for my autometer gauge. I run around 10.5-11 A/F and it stays rock solid.
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Originally Posted by HyaBoosta
so you autometer doesn't bounce around anymore? where did you get yours from hondatech?
The PLX devices wideband has an interface module which will convert the signal to narrowband. I hooked the narrowband signal up to the autometer gauge. It works like its supposed to now. I like using it because its a idiot light - its saved my butt a few times now (like when I'm boosting, but my A/F doesn't kick up fast enough) - I wouldn't drive a turboed car without one, wideband that is.
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