2002 Civic Si versus worst year of the mustang V8..1996
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2002 Civic Si versus worst year of the mustang V8..1996
It's long, but worth reading, imo
Oh boy oh boy, what a good lunch I just had. Some fish and brown rice and a V8, not once, not twice, but 3 times.
It's a V8 Mustang 4.6L Convertible with a passenger...that's a bad combo for the stang.

I know, nothing to be too proud of considering it's the worst year for the mustang. But here's the story:
On my way to lunch the guy in the V8 Stang was ****ing with me. I didn't bother racing him since there was traffic and I know he works where I work...I thought I'd lose!
But, on my way back to work, I see him again. I see him look in the rear view mirror at me and takes off a bit and gets in the lane next to mine. So he's going to let me take a running start. We were going about 30mph. He was just ahead of me, but I hit it first. By the end of 2nd I was already ahead of him and kept pulling through third...like 3 car spaces.
I slow down and he says I did a ricer fly by
I told him I know and I'll give him a chance at this red light we have ahead.
So we're sitting there and the passenger ask if I have N2o. I said no and it's just stock except for the i/h/e I have. So light turns green, we're even through 1st as I spinning out the entire rpm range and just wait till I hit the rev limiter to change gears...as it would have been worse if I had shifted, since I wasn't getting traction. 2nd gear I'm just barely ahead. 3rd, I'm leaving him a car space...then I have to slow down because there's someone in front of me going the speed limit.
he moves over and we catch another light. The passenger is all shocked. He's freaking out and going on about how surprised he his.
Light turns green, I get nervous again and spin out the entire 1st gear to the rev limiter and then shift. He at the time had about a car length. I pulled hard on him in 2nd and left him in 3rd. He was still trying, I thought for sure it was over, since I don't have all the power he has for a the amount of speed we are going. Well, to my surprise I kept my distance at 2 spaces away and went to fourth. At about 110mph he finally gave up.
So then we pull up to the gate (I'm in the military) to get on base. I asked him if it was a V8 (trying to act stupid
). He said yes and that he had a CAI. I just kinda looked at him with pity and said "Well....it's an older car, so you know" Then he goes, yeah, and your car is lighter.
The End
PS, I know I'm not the ****...it's the worst mustang ever...that's the reason I beat him, and he had a passenger.
Oh boy oh boy, what a good lunch I just had. Some fish and brown rice and a V8, not once, not twice, but 3 times.
It's a V8 Mustang 4.6L Convertible with a passenger...that's a bad combo for the stang.

I know, nothing to be too proud of considering it's the worst year for the mustang. But here's the story:
On my way to lunch the guy in the V8 Stang was ****ing with me. I didn't bother racing him since there was traffic and I know he works where I work...I thought I'd lose!
But, on my way back to work, I see him again. I see him look in the rear view mirror at me and takes off a bit and gets in the lane next to mine. So he's going to let me take a running start. We were going about 30mph. He was just ahead of me, but I hit it first. By the end of 2nd I was already ahead of him and kept pulling through third...like 3 car spaces.
I slow down and he says I did a ricer fly by
I told him I know and I'll give him a chance at this red light we have ahead.So we're sitting there and the passenger ask if I have N2o. I said no and it's just stock except for the i/h/e I have. So light turns green, we're even through 1st as I spinning out the entire rpm range and just wait till I hit the rev limiter to change gears...as it would have been worse if I had shifted, since I wasn't getting traction. 2nd gear I'm just barely ahead. 3rd, I'm leaving him a car space...then I have to slow down because there's someone in front of me going the speed limit.
he moves over and we catch another light. The passenger is all shocked. He's freaking out and going on about how surprised he his.
Light turns green, I get nervous again and spin out the entire 1st gear to the rev limiter and then shift. He at the time had about a car length. I pulled hard on him in 2nd and left him in 3rd. He was still trying, I thought for sure it was over, since I don't have all the power he has for a the amount of speed we are going. Well, to my surprise I kept my distance at 2 spaces away and went to fourth. At about 110mph he finally gave up.
So then we pull up to the gate (I'm in the military) to get on base. I asked him if it was a V8 (trying to act stupid
). He said yes and that he had a CAI. I just kinda looked at him with pity and said "Well....it's an older car, so you know" Then he goes, yeah, and your car is lighter.The End
PS, I know I'm not the ****...it's the worst mustang ever...that's the reason I beat him, and he had a passenger.
U sat there spinning u're tires the entire rpm range of 1st and u still beat him?
hmm.... i find that a little hard to believe.
1996 Mustang GT
Base Number of Cylinders: 8 Base Engine Size: 4.6 liters
Base Engine Type: V8 Horsepower: 215 hp
Max Horsepower: 4400 rpm Torque: 285 ft-lbs.
Max Torque: 3500 rpm Drive Type: RWD
hmm.... i find that a little hard to believe.
1996 Mustang GT
Base Number of Cylinders: 8 Base Engine Size: 4.6 liters
Base Engine Type: V8 Horsepower: 215 hp
Max Horsepower: 4400 rpm Torque: 285 ft-lbs.
Max Torque: 3500 rpm Drive Type: RWD
Last edited by n00dleboy; Jul 9, 2003 at 03:20 PM.
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Originally posted by YES
:zbsflag: :zbsflag: :zbsflag: :zbsflag: :zbsflag: :zbsflag:
hi. i like to smoke crack too. no your egg on wheels will not beat any stock gt mustang with a real driver. kk thx.
:zbsflag: :zbsflag: :zbsflag: :zbsflag: :zbsflag: :zbsflag:
hi. i like to smoke crack too. no your egg on wheels will not beat any stock gt mustang with a real driver. kk thx.
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Hmm... V6 I could see, unless that guy was a really bad driver... but up until a week ago I had a 95 Mustang LX, and I have a 2003 Civic LX now... and the Mustang would have kicked it's butt... I realize an Si is faster than my LX, but then again, the V8 is way faster than my older V6....
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Originally posted by YES
even the guys i remember from club si are calling yuo 4 ric3R!.
even the guys i remember from club si are calling yuo 4 ric3R!.
By the way, there's no use with people like yourself...you obviously have don't know about that model year mustang...not too mention the extra passenger, convertible, 7 years old. It has so many things going against it. Either that, or you are who you are and that's just the way it will be. I'm not BSing, I never have, never will...the driver even admitted it.
Oh well I guess
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Originally posted by Warlock_THR
Hmm... V6 I could see, unless that guy was a really bad driver... but up until a week ago I had a 95 Mustang LX, and I have a 2003 Civic LX now... and the Mustang would have kicked it's butt... I realize an Si is faster than my LX, but then again, the V8 is way faster than my older V6....
Hmm... V6 I could see, unless that guy was a really bad driver... but up until a week ago I had a 95 Mustang LX, and I have a 2003 Civic LX now... and the Mustang would have kicked it's butt... I realize an Si is faster than my LX, but then again, the V8 is way faster than my older V6....
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never mind, I stand corrected, I already checked. 95 was still the coupe style. I don't know what I was thinking. My friend had the 94 model 5.0 which was also a coupe and one car I also beat with my JRSC 1997 EX
He was stock except the intake at that time though
He was stock except the intake at that time though Registered!!
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Ah, didn't get into my Mustang too much, I kept it totally stock and mint, and when it came time to part I barely got anything for it... so... with my new LX I plan to mod it up the wazoo... maybe I'll see my old 'Stang and race the new owner some day.
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Originally posted by Warlock_THR
Ah, didn't get into my Mustang too much, I kept it totally stock and mint, and when it came time to part I barely got anything for it... so... with my new LX I plan to mod it up the wazoo... maybe I'll see my old 'Stang and race the new owner some day.
Ah, didn't get into my Mustang too much, I kept it totally stock and mint, and when it came time to part I barely got anything for it... so... with my new LX I plan to mod it up the wazoo... maybe I'll see my old 'Stang and race the new owner some day.
If not turbo always helps. It doesn't matter if you SOHC or not, do it right and you'll make that car blow doors off. i understand that the car had a passenger and was a convertible and also was a 1996, but i don't think you could of beaten it spinning 1st gear, unless the driver of the stang didn't know what he was doing. don't get me wrong, i believe you can beat that year stang, but it would be close.
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Originally posted by JRS1civic
i understand that the car had a passenger and was a convertible and also was a 1996, but i don't think you could of beaten it spinning 1st gear, unless the driver of the stang didn't know what he was doing. don't get me wrong, i believe you can beat that year stang, but it would be close.
i understand that the car had a passenger and was a convertible and also was a 1996, but i don't think you could of beaten it spinning 1st gear, unless the driver of the stang didn't know what he was doing. don't get me wrong, i believe you can beat that year stang, but it would be close.
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I tell you guys what. I see so much bashing on here about the new Si and about how slow you guys think it is. So now you see someone with one post about beating a crappy 1996 mustang and you can't take it. So if any of you are NA with you oh so powerful SOHC and want to go up against me, let me know. Or if you have a friend that has a 1994-1996 or so mustang, let me know I'll go for a run. I'd like to keep this at the track also if possible...I hate risking mine, anyone elses life and getting a ticket.
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I may have missed it but you never said the GT was stick or auto.
If it was an auto modular V8 96 mustang vert, then your car "should" be faster.
However, if the stang was a stick shift, then the guy couldn't drive to save his left ********. In your sig you have 15.5 as a 1/4 mile time with intake and header. Exhaust may have gotten you a slight bit quicker....
However, that mustang in stick shift form is still good for at least a 15.1 with an average to good driver. And it's certainly a 14 second car at least. People are somehow under this misconception that the 5.0 was quicker off the showroom floor than the 4.6. And that's just not true for most cases. (there were some foxbodies and 5.0 variations that were quicker, but for the most part, they were slower than the 4.6)
So now you on your best run of let's say 15.4, beat a car that with an average joe should run 15.1. And what makes it even harder is that this most certainly WASNT your best run of 15.5, because you said you had no traction through your entire 1st gear and spun all the way through 1st. YET SOMEHOW you were even with him the whole time off the line.
No matter what, off the line RWD>FWD any day. So there's an indication right there the guy couldn't drive for crap.
I'm not calling BS, but if his stang was a stick shift, don't think you had the faster car, because you most certainly didn't. However, you did out-drive him.
If it was an auto modular V8 96 mustang vert, then your car "should" be faster.
However, if the stang was a stick shift, then the guy couldn't drive to save his left ********. In your sig you have 15.5 as a 1/4 mile time with intake and header. Exhaust may have gotten you a slight bit quicker....
However, that mustang in stick shift form is still good for at least a 15.1 with an average to good driver. And it's certainly a 14 second car at least. People are somehow under this misconception that the 5.0 was quicker off the showroom floor than the 4.6. And that's just not true for most cases. (there were some foxbodies and 5.0 variations that were quicker, but for the most part, they were slower than the 4.6)
So now you on your best run of let's say 15.4, beat a car that with an average joe should run 15.1. And what makes it even harder is that this most certainly WASNT your best run of 15.5, because you said you had no traction through your entire 1st gear and spun all the way through 1st. YET SOMEHOW you were even with him the whole time off the line.
No matter what, off the line RWD>FWD any day. So there's an indication right there the guy couldn't drive for crap.
I'm not calling BS, but if his stang was a stick shift, don't think you had the faster car, because you most certainly didn't. However, you did out-drive him.
Have you run your car with your exhaust on it yet? 15.5 seems awfully slow for a new SI. I was under the impression that they ran faster than mid-15's, especially with i/h/e. I almost bought the SI but didn't like the hatchback style. I have never raced one but I might have to try my luck now...
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Originally posted by S2000man01
I may have missed it but you never said the GT was stick or auto.
If it was an auto modular V8 96 mustang vert, then your car "should" be faster.
However, if the stang was a stick shift, then the guy couldn't drive to save his left ********. In your sig you have 15.5 as a 1/4 mile time with intake and header. Exhaust may have gotten you a slight bit quicker....
However, that mustang in stick shift form is still good for at least a 15.1 with an average to good driver. And it's certainly a 14 second car at least. People are somehow under this misconception that the 5.0 was quicker off the showroom floor than the 4.6. And that's just not true for most cases. (there were some foxbodies and 5.0 variations that were quicker, but for the most part, they were slower than the 4.6)
So now you on your best run of let's say 15.4, beat a car that with an average joe should run 15.1. And what makes it even harder is that this most certainly WASNT your best run of 15.5, because you said you had no traction through your entire 1st gear and spun all the way through 1st. YET SOMEHOW you were even with him the whole time off the line.
No matter what, off the line RWD>FWD any day. So there's an indication right there the guy couldn't drive for crap.
I'm not calling BS, but if his stang was a stick shift, don't think you had the faster car, because you most certainly didn't. However, you did out-drive him.
I may have missed it but you never said the GT was stick or auto.
If it was an auto modular V8 96 mustang vert, then your car "should" be faster.
However, if the stang was a stick shift, then the guy couldn't drive to save his left ********. In your sig you have 15.5 as a 1/4 mile time with intake and header. Exhaust may have gotten you a slight bit quicker....
However, that mustang in stick shift form is still good for at least a 15.1 with an average to good driver. And it's certainly a 14 second car at least. People are somehow under this misconception that the 5.0 was quicker off the showroom floor than the 4.6. And that's just not true for most cases. (there were some foxbodies and 5.0 variations that were quicker, but for the most part, they were slower than the 4.6)
So now you on your best run of let's say 15.4, beat a car that with an average joe should run 15.1. And what makes it even harder is that this most certainly WASNT your best run of 15.5, because you said you had no traction through your entire 1st gear and spun all the way through 1st. YET SOMEHOW you were even with him the whole time off the line.
No matter what, off the line RWD>FWD any day. So there's an indication right there the guy couldn't drive for crap.
I'm not calling BS, but if his stang was a stick shift, don't think you had the faster car, because you most certainly didn't. However, you did out-drive him.
If someone has more power in a FWD than a RWD...I would think there is a good chance the FWD will get the guy off the line....no matter what. Maybe the guy couldn't drive oh well...he deserved it for ****ing with me when I was going to lunch...the point is he thought he was bad *** with his V8 and had his *** handed to him by a damn minivan three times.
I know I can't beat all Mustang GT's in that rear...especially if they have some good bolt ons...they react way better of course. But the people here in San Antonio think if they have a mustang they are Gods...I love it, they can't drive for ****. That's why I'm not scared to say I'll race someone with a pretty much stock GT in that year...again, if it was say a 99up GT, I don't think it would matter if it was a crappy driver, I'd lose to those.
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Originally posted by NismoSpecV
Have you run your car with your exhaust on it yet? 15.5 seems awfully slow for a new SI. I was under the impression that they ran faster than mid-15's, especially with i/h/e. I almost bought the SI but didn't like the hatchback style. I have never raced one but I might have to try my luck now...
Have you run your car with your exhaust on it yet? 15.5 seems awfully slow for a new SI. I was under the impression that they ran faster than mid-15's, especially with i/h/e. I almost bought the SI but didn't like the hatchback style. I have never raced one but I might have to try my luck now...
Here's the slip from the winter with sri and hp header

Here's the slip with the i/h/e I now have with the 17's in May, remember I'm in Texas...it was 93 out that day

Also my A/F is looking pretty bad according to the guys at team extreme

And yes, that isn't a good time for the new si imo. My 60fts are absolutely terrible. I'm still working on that...I usually launch at 2500-3000 rpm at the track...unlike when I'm on the street I get nervous and launch at a rediculous 5000-5500 rpm
Last edited by 02SilverSiHB; Jul 10, 2003 at 08:33 AM.
why do you launch so high on the street?? I launch at like 2000 rpm ( but I have more low end torque). If you were to run at night in like September your times should get a little better. Don't get so nervous when you are about to run someone. Just let it flow naturally. I miss 5th gear all the time in my car because I think about it too much. If I just let it flow then I have no problems getting into 5th. I would think you could be at low 15's with i/h/e. I have yet to run my car so not exactly sure what it will do. Other drivers have done 15.2 or 15.3 with just CAI like I have. So we shall see.
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Originally posted by NismoSpecV
why do you launch so high on the street?? I launch at like 2000 rpm ( but I have more low end torque). If you were to run at night in like September your times should get a little better. Don't get so nervous when you are about to run someone. Just let it flow naturally. I miss 5th gear all the time in my car because I think about it too much. If I just let it flow then I have no problems getting into 5th. I would think you could be at low 15's with i/h/e. I have yet to run my car so not exactly sure what it will do. Other drivers have done 15.2 or 15.3 with just CAI like I have. So we shall see.
why do you launch so high on the street?? I launch at like 2000 rpm ( but I have more low end torque). If you were to run at night in like September your times should get a little better. Don't get so nervous when you are about to run someone. Just let it flow naturally. I miss 5th gear all the time in my car because I think about it too much. If I just let it flow then I have no problems getting into 5th. I would think you could be at low 15's with i/h/e. I have yet to run my car so not exactly sure what it will do. Other drivers have done 15.2 or 15.3 with just CAI like I have. So we shall see.
then my foot hits the gas and the other foot lets off the clutch..weird.Last time I went there was a guy who couldn't drive his spec V for ****. He was stock hitting 16.3! With i/h/e you'll be in the low 15's and maybe even a 14.9, I know a few have.
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An SRI is also probably hurting you more than helping. You should go with the CAI if power is what you are looking for.
Also, team extreme doesn't know WTF they are talking about. Number one, you haven't done anything to change your air/fuel ratio. Number two, it looks just fine for an EP hatch. It never goes below 12:1, however, that 15:1 right at the beginning scares me. Not sure why your car is running that lean so low in the rpm range, but then again, that may be normal. Otherwise for your stock ecu/fuel system car, your air/fuel is fine and team extreme doesn't know jack. In time if you get a VAFC or something to that effect, you could lean out the ratio a bit more, but only on the Hi throttle side. But that's a whole technical boat I won't go into right now.
As for you beating the GT, as you said you know you didn't have the faster car, and that makes you a level headed racer.
AS for the FWD vs RWD and the "power" thing. You'd have to have a LOT more power on a FWD car and some damn sticky tires to outlaunch a RWD car. And in this case, you had neither of those, so that's where the driving skills came in.
Also, team extreme doesn't know WTF they are talking about. Number one, you haven't done anything to change your air/fuel ratio. Number two, it looks just fine for an EP hatch. It never goes below 12:1, however, that 15:1 right at the beginning scares me. Not sure why your car is running that lean so low in the rpm range, but then again, that may be normal. Otherwise for your stock ecu/fuel system car, your air/fuel is fine and team extreme doesn't know jack. In time if you get a VAFC or something to that effect, you could lean out the ratio a bit more, but only on the Hi throttle side. But that's a whole technical boat I won't go into right now.
As for you beating the GT, as you said you know you didn't have the faster car, and that makes you a level headed racer.

AS for the FWD vs RWD and the "power" thing. You'd have to have a LOT more power on a FWD car and some damn sticky tires to outlaunch a RWD car. And in this case, you had neither of those, so that's where the driving skills came in.
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Originally posted by S2000man01
An SRI is also probably hurting you more than helping. You should go with the CAI if power is what you are looking for.
Also, team extreme doesn't know WTF they are talking about. Number one, you haven't done anything to change your air/fuel ratio. Number two, it looks just fine for an EP hatch. It never goes below 12:1, however, that 15:1 right at the beginning scares me. Not sure why your car is running that lean so low in the rpm range, but then again, that may be normal. Otherwise for your stock ecu/fuel system car, your air/fuel is fine and team extreme doesn't know jack. In time if you get a VAFC or something to that effect, you could lean out the ratio a bit more, but only on the Hi throttle side. But that's a whole technical boat I won't go into right now.
As for you beating the GT, as you said you know you didn't have the faster car, and that makes you a level headed racer.
AS for the FWD vs RWD and the "power" thing. You'd have to have a LOT more power on a FWD car and some damn sticky tires to outlaunch a RWD car. And in this case, you had neither of those, so that's where the driving skills came in.
An SRI is also probably hurting you more than helping. You should go with the CAI if power is what you are looking for.
Also, team extreme doesn't know WTF they are talking about. Number one, you haven't done anything to change your air/fuel ratio. Number two, it looks just fine for an EP hatch. It never goes below 12:1, however, that 15:1 right at the beginning scares me. Not sure why your car is running that lean so low in the rpm range, but then again, that may be normal. Otherwise for your stock ecu/fuel system car, your air/fuel is fine and team extreme doesn't know jack. In time if you get a VAFC or something to that effect, you could lean out the ratio a bit more, but only on the Hi throttle side. But that's a whole technical boat I won't go into right now.
As for you beating the GT, as you said you know you didn't have the faster car, and that makes you a level headed racer.

AS for the FWD vs RWD and the "power" thing. You'd have to have a LOT more power on a FWD car and some damn sticky tires to outlaunch a RWD car. And in this case, you had neither of those, so that's where the driving skills came in.
I have a cai don't you see that in what I just posted? The dyno and all and check my profile. Many people have seen my a/f and have agreed that it is hurting my power curve. You're the first to disagree. I'm EXavier on clubsi: http://forums.clubsi.com/showflat.ph...rt=&PHPSESSID= I have an cai, hp header and cat back...I believe that will affect a/f ratio as the OBDII computers are known for not reacting well with mods.
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Originally posted by PatrickB
i dunno seems a lil far fetched.. but a stock mustang is fawkin slow.
i dunno seems a lil far fetched.. but a stock mustang is fawkin slow.
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Originally posted by 02SilverSiHB
??????????????????????????????????????????????/
I have a cai don't you see that in what I just posted? The dyno and all and check my profile. Many people have seen my a/f and have agreed that it is hurting my power curve. You're the first to disagree. I'm EXavier on clubsi: http://forums.clubsi.com/showflat.ph...rt=&PHPSESSID= I have an cai, hp header and cat back...I believe that will affect a/f ratio as the OBDII computers are known for not reacting well with mods.
??????????????????????????????????????????????/
I have a cai don't you see that in what I just posted? The dyno and all and check my profile. Many people have seen my a/f and have agreed that it is hurting my power curve. You're the first to disagree. I'm EXavier on clubsi: http://forums.clubsi.com/showflat.ph...rt=&PHPSESSID= I have an cai, hp header and cat back...I believe that will affect a/f ratio as the OBDII computers are known for not reacting well with mods.

I assume you replaced the short ram with the cold air?
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Ok, let me get some basics down here quick. A stoichmetric air/fuel ratio (stoichmetric meaning what is considered the perfect mix) is 13.7:1. Lower means richer.... higher means leaner. Stoichmetric would generally be the ideal fuel mixture for the combustion chamber. However, most compressions combined with the octane of fuel (generally no higher than 91 to 93 octane) would see some detonation with a 13.7:1 fuel ratio if this was used commonly during acceleration.
SOOOO... what this means is MOST cars come from the factory with a built in "dummy" curve, meant to protect the car from detonation. Even more so does this happen in cars that require premium gas, so that way if some dingleberry puts in regular, it won't destroy the car.
Hence, most cars would probably carry an average air/fuel of around 12. Some cars ARE tuned more aggressively from the factory, like the Nissan 350Z for example. This gives the engine a bit more power, but takes away that "dummy" ratio should improper fuel hit the tank.
HOWEVER, this has an adverse affect. When you add bolt on mods, like intake header and exhaust, this naturally MAKES YOUR AIR/FUEL LEANER. Meaning if you were 13:1, i/h/e might make it 13.5:1. Since the 350Z is curved close to 13.5:1, when you add bolt ons, it makes the air/fuel TOO lean, causing detonation and a loss of horsepower. This has been proven, because bolt ons for the 350Z generally cause a loss of power. Likewise, what has also been proven is adding high octane gives an increase of power to the 350Z because of the increased air/fuel, and the higher octane fuel's resistance to detonation.
However, just for fun, let's throw in the ECU. SOME ECU's are made with different mappings for different situations. Others are passive and simply have closed and open loop mappings.
Then there is the civic Si and RSX and S2000 and other cars with such ECU's that actually ADJUST for an increase in air/fuel ratios. So your civic initially gets X gain from the bolt ons, but over time, much like the S2000, the ECU learns and readjusts your fuel curve back to stock. You are still making the extra power from your bolt ons, but you have lost a bit of your "original" X gains because the ECU made your air/fuel a little richer again. (the 350Z ECU does not do this which is why power is lost with bolt ons. the bolt ons make the air/fuel too lean and the ECU doesn't adjust for it)
So what does this mean for you? Your air/fuel is probably close to what your stock air/fuel was when the car had nothing on it at all. And a 12-13:1 air/fuel ratio is about what a car should be at, so other than the initial spike of 15:1, I'm not sure what they are thinking is hurting your air/fuel? If anything, you could make it a little leaner with a VAFC and that would give you some more power. But your air/fuel looks fine to me for a car running with what you have.
Sorry for the long read, but I'm just trying to explain best I can. I do have SOME idea of what I'm talking about.
If I get a chance, I will ask UL from s2ki if he has anything to add. (UL owns his own dyno shop and has a GREAT DEAL of automotive knowledge. In fact, Hondata uses HIS dyno shop for their R&D so he kinda knows his stuff)
SOOOO... what this means is MOST cars come from the factory with a built in "dummy" curve, meant to protect the car from detonation. Even more so does this happen in cars that require premium gas, so that way if some dingleberry puts in regular, it won't destroy the car.
Hence, most cars would probably carry an average air/fuel of around 12. Some cars ARE tuned more aggressively from the factory, like the Nissan 350Z for example. This gives the engine a bit more power, but takes away that "dummy" ratio should improper fuel hit the tank.
HOWEVER, this has an adverse affect. When you add bolt on mods, like intake header and exhaust, this naturally MAKES YOUR AIR/FUEL LEANER. Meaning if you were 13:1, i/h/e might make it 13.5:1. Since the 350Z is curved close to 13.5:1, when you add bolt ons, it makes the air/fuel TOO lean, causing detonation and a loss of horsepower. This has been proven, because bolt ons for the 350Z generally cause a loss of power. Likewise, what has also been proven is adding high octane gives an increase of power to the 350Z because of the increased air/fuel, and the higher octane fuel's resistance to detonation.
However, just for fun, let's throw in the ECU. SOME ECU's are made with different mappings for different situations. Others are passive and simply have closed and open loop mappings.
Then there is the civic Si and RSX and S2000 and other cars with such ECU's that actually ADJUST for an increase in air/fuel ratios. So your civic initially gets X gain from the bolt ons, but over time, much like the S2000, the ECU learns and readjusts your fuel curve back to stock. You are still making the extra power from your bolt ons, but you have lost a bit of your "original" X gains because the ECU made your air/fuel a little richer again. (the 350Z ECU does not do this which is why power is lost with bolt ons. the bolt ons make the air/fuel too lean and the ECU doesn't adjust for it)
So what does this mean for you? Your air/fuel is probably close to what your stock air/fuel was when the car had nothing on it at all. And a 12-13:1 air/fuel ratio is about what a car should be at, so other than the initial spike of 15:1, I'm not sure what they are thinking is hurting your air/fuel? If anything, you could make it a little leaner with a VAFC and that would give you some more power. But your air/fuel looks fine to me for a car running with what you have.
Sorry for the long read, but I'm just trying to explain best I can. I do have SOME idea of what I'm talking about.
If I get a chance, I will ask UL from s2ki if he has anything to add. (UL owns his own dyno shop and has a GREAT DEAL of automotive knowledge. In fact, Hondata uses HIS dyno shop for their R&D so he kinda knows his stuff) 

