Ktuner and the D17
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Man, those gauges are nice. Looks real good.
Are the oil gauges usually pegged like that? lol
Are the oil gauges usually pegged like that? lol
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FYI....OIL IS THE LIFE BLOOD OF A T3T4 TURBO!
I have had so many oil issues from the feed line either melting or crimping I have officially went with brass fittings, fuel injection rubber lines, and zip ties! I figure the lines won't last so they will be replaced with every oil change...BTW the line is only 4 bucks at the auto parts store. pics to come showing the setup.
I have had so many oil issues from the feed line either melting or crimping I have officially went with brass fittings, fuel injection rubber lines, and zip ties! I figure the lines won't last so they will be replaced with every oil change...BTW the line is only 4 bucks at the auto parts store. pics to come showing the setup.
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Just out of curiosity, do you need a turbo timer? I believe I have one laying around that I'm willing to part with.
I would also have to side with team "use hose clamps vs zip ties." If a zip tie breaks, that oil doesn't go to turbo, then bye bye turbo. Lol
I would also have to side with team "use hose clamps vs zip ties." If a zip tie breaks, that oil doesn't go to turbo, then bye bye turbo. Lol
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Re: Ktuner and the D17
FYI....OIL IS THE LIFE BLOOD OF A T3T4 TURBO!
I have had so many oil issues from the feed line either melting or crimping I have officially went with brass fittings, fuel injection rubber lines, and zip ties! I figure the lines won't last so they will be replaced with every oil change...BTW the line is only 4 bucks at the auto parts store. pics to come showing the setup.
I have had so many oil issues from the feed line either melting or crimping I have officially went with brass fittings, fuel injection rubber lines, and zip ties! I figure the lines won't last so they will be replaced with every oil change...BTW the line is only 4 bucks at the auto parts store. pics to come showing the setup.
Where did you purchase your feed line from? What brand is it?
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the feed lines were from DNA....
They are now from Oriely's Autoparts....
Has anyone ever seen a zip tie break???? Officer's use them many times instead of handcuffs.....
Haters gonna hate...
I ran zip ties for all my fuel and oil lines on my race karts, which by the way went a hell of a lot faster than my civic.
This is not me racing but it is the class i used to race...
They are now from Oriely's Autoparts....
Has anyone ever seen a zip tie break???? Officer's use them many times instead of handcuffs.....
Haters gonna hate...
I ran zip ties for all my fuel and oil lines on my race karts, which by the way went a hell of a lot faster than my civic.
This is not me racing but it is the class i used to race...
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Re: Ktuner and the D17
the feed lines were from DNA....
They are now from Oriely's Autoparts....
Has anyone ever seen a zip tie break???? Officer's use them many times instead of handcuffs.....
Haters gonna hate...
I ran zip ties for all my fuel and oil lines on my race karts, which by the way went a hell of a lot faster than my civic.
This is not me racing but it is the class i used to race...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaDHi9sD0mw
They are now from Oriely's Autoparts....
Has anyone ever seen a zip tie break???? Officer's use them many times instead of handcuffs.....
Haters gonna hate...
I ran zip ties for all my fuel and oil lines on my race karts, which by the way went a hell of a lot faster than my civic.
This is not me racing but it is the class i used to race...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaDHi9sD0mw
Zip ties for what?
That explains. DNA aka china brand is trash for oil lines. I run DNA header currently, but never risk a crucial line.I bought some lines made by Fragola off summit racing. I trust that. Cause I had done research people from all over the various car forums talk bad about el cheapo chinese ebay oil lines.
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660cc injectors installed this weekend.
Was able to push 9 psi! hit 120 mph somewhere....
Time to check the setup for leaks...i would think the turbo would push more boost at 6,000 rpms...
Waste Gate has both springs installed for 14lbs...
Was able to push 9 psi! hit 120 mph somewhere....
Time to check the setup for leaks...i would think the turbo would push more boost at 6,000 rpms...
Waste Gate has both springs installed for 14lbs...
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Rep Power: 97 Re: Ktuner and the D17
Anyone have a possible solution/experience to a miss fire consistently around 7-8lbs of boost?
660cc injectors, stock fuel pump, ktuner boost controller set to 12 lbs, stock MAP sensor, stock fuel rail.
Starts to hesitate around 7lbs then won't go over 8.7lbs.
afr is around 12.5
WG has the duel springs in it set at 14lbs...i actually installed a 3rd spring so who knows what the real setting is at now.
checked for leaks but none "visible" Haven't done a leak down test as of yet.
It feels as if the WG is opening up, but would that cause a miss fire?
I'm shooting for 10lbs of boost...
BTW A1 engine with stock cam w/265,000 miles on it....crowler cam and A2 head on it's way.
660cc injectors, stock fuel pump, ktuner boost controller set to 12 lbs, stock MAP sensor, stock fuel rail.
Starts to hesitate around 7lbs then won't go over 8.7lbs.
afr is around 12.5
WG has the duel springs in it set at 14lbs...i actually installed a 3rd spring so who knows what the real setting is at now.
checked for leaks but none "visible" Haven't done a leak down test as of yet.
It feels as if the WG is opening up, but would that cause a miss fire?
I'm shooting for 10lbs of boost...
BTW A1 engine with stock cam w/265,000 miles on it....crowler cam and A2 head on it's way.
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faulty wastegate, perhaps? That would only cause a boost pressure issue, however. Doesn't quite account for the misfire. That head->turbo mani leak would only cause low boost issues, too. Problem may lie elsewhere. Definitely get, at the very least, a compression test done, just to make sure that 10psi you're running hasn't FUBAR'd the head gasket. What spark plugs you running? Back in this forum's hayday, the plugs of choice for a boosted D17A2 were the Denso IK20 iridium plugs. Coincidentally the same plugs I'm still running to this day from Azumi's boost era
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Rep Power: 97 Re: Ktuner and the D17
So all the stock plugs were gaped around .42.
With the advise from 5.0Thunder, i gaped them down to .30.
BOOOM, no more hesitation!
Spark blow out is what i do believe it is called.
Thanks 5.0!!!
With the advise from 5.0Thunder, i gaped them down to .30.
BOOOM, no more hesitation!
Spark blow out is what i do believe it is called.
Thanks 5.0!!!
#82
Re: Ktuner and the D17
No problem man! Yeah, spark blowout is the term we've been using for decades, though it's not literally blown out like a candle.
Basically, when you add boost and extra fuel to an engine, the combustion chamber pressure is increased a LOT and it requires more energy to jump the spark plug gap. At high RPM, this energy is hard to come by since the coils are trying to recharge in a much shorter span of time between ignition events so they stop arcing at a certain RPM. If you can't add spark energy (in the form of stronger ignition coils), you simply close the gap down to enable the arc. At a plug gap of .030 you should be safe for plenty of boost on the D17.
Basically, when you add boost and extra fuel to an engine, the combustion chamber pressure is increased a LOT and it requires more energy to jump the spark plug gap. At high RPM, this energy is hard to come by since the coils are trying to recharge in a much shorter span of time between ignition events so they stop arcing at a certain RPM. If you can't add spark energy (in the form of stronger ignition coils), you simply close the gap down to enable the arc. At a plug gap of .030 you should be safe for plenty of boost on the D17.
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Back in my karting days (super charged briggs and open 2cycles) we ran some crazy designed spark plug you couldn't gap...i wonder if this would work???
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Re: Ktuner and the D17
lol just make sure you keep sensor resolution in mind when selecting a sensor. that 44psi (4 bar minus atmospheric) is scaled along a 0-5v range so if you're planning on running 20psi for example, you'd never use half of that voltage range, which kills your resolution and muddies up the data that your ECU receives. You'd be better off finding a 2.5bar sensor so that youre scaling 22psi (2.5bar minus atm) along 0-5v, lending twice the resolution and accuracy for your ECU. It's important for fueling and ignition timing.