Official K-swap Discussion and Research Thread.
#181
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Don't do the accord or element. The k24a1 (crv) is a good k24. This allows you to swap on a better head when you have more money. The k24a4 and the k24a3 don't allow you to do this unless you swap the pistons.
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Rep Power: 171 Re: Official K-swap Discussion and Research Thread.
Yeah the crv would be good. I remember there was something else about the early crv motors that wasn't great though. I'll have to look it up. Either way I'm not super concerned with the head swap because there is still plenty of potential for power with the k24. With i/h/e and a kpro tune I figure I could make some pretty respectable power to the wheels without spending much extra money.
I will definitely have to keep an eye out for crv stuff though.
I will definitely have to keep an eye out for crv stuff though.
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Rep Power: 169 Re: Official K-swap Discussion and Research Thread.
They all make around the same horsepower and torque. The k24a2 (tsx) is the best k24, but it is not cheap. (200 hp). The k24a1 (crv) is second because you can put on a k20a2 (rsx type s) head and you will have 200 hp. It's a poor mans k24a2.
The element and accord will not bolt up to ANY k20 head because of valve and piston clearance issues. I found a crv long block for $300. They're everywhere.
Also do not buy a k24z engine. Hondata kpro only supports the k24a engines and not the k24z ones.
K24a1 with k20a2 head and rbc/I/rh/e kpro will make around 225 hp
The element and accord will not bolt up to ANY k20 head because of valve and piston clearance issues. I found a crv long block for $300. They're everywhere.
Also do not buy a k24z engine. Hondata kpro only supports the k24a engines and not the k24z ones.
K24a1 with k20a2 head and rbc/I/rh/e kpro will make around 225 hp
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Rep Power: 171 Re: Official K-swap Discussion and Research Thread.
Yeah it would be nice to have the option to upgrade the head later with no other modifications.
I wish I could find a crv long block that cheap though :/ I can't seem to find jack crap in my area for under $500, but I guess that's why I'm planning to have to hunt for a couple months...
If you do know any reliable places to get a good engine let me know though!
Also, as a side note the part collecting has started. Modestly, but it's going. Picked up an RSX subframe, shifter cables (with box - not that I think I need it...) and throttle cable for $80 at the local junk yard. Under budget already haha.
I wish I could find a crv long block that cheap though :/ I can't seem to find jack crap in my area for under $500, but I guess that's why I'm planning to have to hunt for a couple months...
If you do know any reliable places to get a good engine let me know though!
Also, as a side note the part collecting has started. Modestly, but it's going. Picked up an RSX subframe, shifter cables (with box - not that I think I need it...) and throttle cable for $80 at the local junk yard. Under budget already haha.
#185
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Rep Power: 288 Re: Official K-swap Discussion and Research Thread.
225 at the crank... lower on the dyno.
They all make around the same horsepower and torque. The k24a2 (tsx) is the best k24, but it is not cheap. (200 hp). The k24a1 (crv) is second because you can put on a k20a2 (rsx type s) head and you will have 200 hp. It's a poor mans k24a2.
The element and accord will not bolt up to ANY k20 head because of valve and piston clearance issues. I found a crv long block for $300. They're everywhere.
Also do not buy a k24z engine. Hondata kpro only supports the k24a engines and not the k24z ones.
K24a1 with k20a2 head and rbc/I/rh/e kpro will make around 225 hp
The element and accord will not bolt up to ANY k20 head because of valve and piston clearance issues. I found a crv long block for $300. They're everywhere.
Also do not buy a k24z engine. Hondata kpro only supports the k24a engines and not the k24z ones.
K24a1 with k20a2 head and rbc/I/rh/e kpro will make around 225 hp
#187
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Rep Power: 171 Re: Official K-swap Discussion and Research Thread.
Alright, I'm trying to sort out what I need as far as swap electronics, cables, etc goes. I think I have a pretty good idea but want to run it by you guys to make sure.
Here's my plan:
k24a1 or a4 with Accord 5 spd (Hasport has mounts for the accord 5 speed as far as I know)
Honda CRV 5 speed ECU (PPB? I think?)
RSX wiring harness
Hasport/Ktuned/hybrid racing swap harness and immobilizer bypass
RSX subframe (already purchased)
Hasport Mounts
RSX shifter box and cables (already purchased)
RSX throttle cable (already purchased)
RSX/EP3 throttle body (cable actuated)
EP3 axles
EP3 radiator/slim fans
Then fill that out with misc stuff to that isn't swap specific or is specific to the engine like exhaust, clutch, ps pump, etc.
Is there anything I am missing? Anything listed that won't work with any particular parts?
I may go straight for kpro or go the immobilizer bypass route depending on funds.
Here's my plan:
k24a1 or a4 with Accord 5 spd (Hasport has mounts for the accord 5 speed as far as I know)
Honda CRV 5 speed ECU (PPB? I think?)
RSX wiring harness
Hasport/Ktuned/hybrid racing swap harness and immobilizer bypass
RSX subframe (already purchased)
Hasport Mounts
RSX shifter box and cables (already purchased)
RSX throttle cable (already purchased)
RSX/EP3 throttle body (cable actuated)
EP3 axles
EP3 radiator/slim fans
Then fill that out with misc stuff to that isn't swap specific or is specific to the engine like exhaust, clutch, ps pump, etc.
Is there anything I am missing? Anything listed that won't work with any particular parts?
I may go straight for kpro or go the immobilizer bypass route depending on funds.
#188
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Rep Power: 165 Re: Official K-swap Discussion and Research Thread.
There's someone selling a K20A3 on 7thgenhonda if you're interested.
RSX K20A3 Motor (~60k, stock internals, longblock with stock RSX A3 Manifold) $350 picked up
I know you said you're going k24 but I just thought I'd throw that out there
RSX K20A3 Motor (~60k, stock internals, longblock with stock RSX A3 Manifold) $350 picked up
I know you said you're going k24 but I just thought I'd throw that out there
#190
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http://www.7thgenhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30354
You can't view the marketplace unless you have a certain number of posts.
Edit: First link I posted was a NEW for sale that has some k20, some k24 stuff.
This is the one I was talking about before.
http://www.7thgenhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29673
You can't view the marketplace unless you have a certain number of posts.
Edit: First link I posted was a NEW for sale that has some k20, some k24 stuff.
This is the one I was talking about before.
http://www.7thgenhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29673
Last edited by got2run5; 07-26-2013 at 07:25 PM.
#192
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Rep Power: 165 Re: Official K-swap Discussion and Research Thread.
Ummmm if you want... here's the guys username "robertschultz1" I'm pretty sure that use on this forum give you some sort of reputation.
#193
Re: Official K-swap Discussion and Research Thread.
I Just finished my em2 k swap yesterday and turned the key for the first time! Very exciting but i hit a few problems. Been trying to research but not getting anywhere so im resorting to posting for help.
I have a JDM k20a (a3 equivalent) running USDM k20a3 ECU
Here's the problems i have so far,
1. Car starts and idles high for a min then starts to fluctuate or pulse.
2. Tachometer doesnt even move at all.
3. Havent seen the radiator fan turn on once.
I think the idle problem MAY (and this is a big MAY) be because i have the Throttle Cable too tight? Or that i havent done the ECM/PCM Idle Learn procedure (because i cant get my tachometer to even move from 0) but im not sure yet
For the Radiator Fan Switch i have 1 wire connected to the GRN/WHT under the fuse box and the other to a ground on the body. I read somewhere that the GRN/WHT wire needs to be spliced into ECM B6 as well but im not sure if thats correct.
Other than that everything else SEEMS to be working. Im only throwing two codes, 1 for vtec (i have a JDM k20a3 doesnt have oil pressure switch for vtec solenoid) and Intake Manifold Runner low voltage (my motor doesnt have this sensor) if anyone has any idea about my problems let me know please i would greatly appreciate some input.
Thanks a lot!
I have a JDM k20a (a3 equivalent) running USDM k20a3 ECU
Here's the problems i have so far,
1. Car starts and idles high for a min then starts to fluctuate or pulse.
2. Tachometer doesnt even move at all.
3. Havent seen the radiator fan turn on once.
I think the idle problem MAY (and this is a big MAY) be because i have the Throttle Cable too tight? Or that i havent done the ECM/PCM Idle Learn procedure (because i cant get my tachometer to even move from 0) but im not sure yet
For the Radiator Fan Switch i have 1 wire connected to the GRN/WHT under the fuse box and the other to a ground on the body. I read somewhere that the GRN/WHT wire needs to be spliced into ECM B6 as well but im not sure if thats correct.
Other than that everything else SEEMS to be working. Im only throwing two codes, 1 for vtec (i have a JDM k20a3 doesnt have oil pressure switch for vtec solenoid) and Intake Manifold Runner low voltage (my motor doesnt have this sensor) if anyone has any idea about my problems let me know please i would greatly appreciate some input.
Thanks a lot!
#194
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Re: Official K-swap Discussion and Research Thread.
Hey guys, I'm not sure if this was covered or not, didn't want to read a million posts, haha. Anyone know which responds better to a turbo, the k20 or the k24? Also, more specifically, which exact motor responds best to boost? Thanks
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#196
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Re: Official K-swap Discussion and Research Thread.
Decide what you can afford and go from there.
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#198
Re: Official K-swap Discussion and Research Thread.
Getting ready to do this soon. Everything I read is about k20a2 or a3 but never anything about the z series. Would a k20z series be the same swap process?
#199
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There are some wiring differences between a2 and z1. You'll have to research.
#200
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Re: Official K-swap Discussion and Research Thread.
You have to worry about mounts, why the engine is being sold like a crack in the block at this time I think the best route is to swap with Rsx Type S engine thats what I'm thinking for myself I'm just waiting on a reply from a gentleman that I asked...I run a ex 2012 auto but I want to go manual and have more horsepower so..rsx type s engine is the best to go. If anyone knows of any re-construction ill have to do please let me know in the comments or reply thanks
#202
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False. K24Z7 is the best option for you because it came in the 9th gen Si's. Makes it smog legal and it's designed to go in the car. Just research the swap.
Last edited by FRSam; 06-16-2020 at 02:01 PM.
#203
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So just spent a couple hours or so reading through every single post on this thread. I have an 04 civic and have a k24 (not sure exactly which version yet, I think out of a crv) sitting in my backyard and plan on swapping it in over the next year or so. I picked up an rsx subframe a week ago and it came with a random hasport mount which I’ve found to be an auto-manual swap mount (as far as I can tell). The guy I purchased the subframe from also gave me a type s radiator with fans, is this usable? I’ve Been researching the swap for a little bit now, but just out of curiosity if I were to run a smaller turbo pushing less than 10 lbs how much power could be expected? I’m very excited to learn more and have fun along the way. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, as I know a lot more people know better than me through the 9 years of posts I’ve read.
#204
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I tried fitting an RSX radiator but it was just a little too wide. I didn't feel like trimming some of the metal body to make it work. EP3 radiator fit a lot better.
#205
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10lbs with a small turbo on a stock engine is probably good for 220-250whp.
Last edited by FRSam; 08-17-2020 at 04:19 PM.
#207
Re: Official K-swap Discussion and Research Thread.
Hi I’m new to the whole forum deal basically I am trying to do a k24a swap into my 1999 civic em1 as budget as possible without it falling apart. I’ve heard that the tsx header can be a pretty close fitment to a lot of swap headers but I haven’t seen anything in person. Does anyone know of any oem exhausts I can steal parts from to try and cheap out a bit more here? Aswell as any more advice for keeping my pockets a little less empty would be greatly appreciated
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be careful, this thread is about 7th gen cars, you have a 6th gen car, they are different
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