the D17 does not suck
09-23-2010
#91
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09-23-2010
#92
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I would reccomend saving up as much money as possible to build the head before you swap it, whether you build it for n/a or boost. Adding a cam and springs would be a great idea, but it depends on what youre looking for. If you really wanna build youre motor, get a donor motor, and build it with pistons rods and the vtec head then swap it in.
Again, this is all what youre looking for, just remember that something is always bound to go wrong when you start something so plan accordingly. But I can definitely recommend the swap though...
Its a lot of fun being able to switch your vtec engagement point and find the best engagement point. 
09-23-2010
#93
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i was trying to get around to saying that...you said it would only last a couple pulls at the boost...i was trying to say i got a couple months.... def not the most reliable thing at that high boost.
09-23-2010
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09-23-2010
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Definitely just read this thread again and yeah this thread is so full of failure. A motor can be built, yes, no matter what it is. The argument i guess is which is better to start off of: the k or the d? The answer is the d but its all about what money you have to spend and what the car is used for. If you go the d17 route you have more maintenance issues, these come with any engine running high boost, its just part of the game. So in the long run you may spend just as much money boosting the d17 as you would swapping and boosting the k.
For DD going the k route is the best option start with more displacement and power so you dont have to boost as much which makes a more reliable build.
I am really pissed with the shitastical people that are on these forums sometimes. If you want to make power, go the route that works for you, but just do it right the first time.
Baron: I agree with the K being a marvel of engineering, except that it rotates cw. I have heard that they do have oiling issues but I heard that people just drilled out a couple oil ports and that solved the problem. Personally, my route is going to be getting a project rex and keepin the vic as a DD, my head swap and a cam once i get it will be as far as i go for it. The d17 is still a d, it can be built but theres just not a lot of aftermarket support for it still and its much easier to get an older chassis and do either a k swap in it or a b swap and boost it.
Schwoogie: I give you props for making good power out of a d17, unfortunately your personality has made you lose all your credibility, this is civicforums.com, d17 build discussions can be discussed but there is no need for an argument with everyone that questions you. I do have to ask why after you built your d17 that you didnt get an aluminum intake manifold? yes, the plastic one can take it but why not get a better flowing one, with shorter runners specifically designed for boost? And why did you use a stage 3 cam and not a stage 2 turbo cam? What are your plans for the future? Again, im not hating just wondering why some people on here are so shitty...
For DD going the k route is the best option start with more displacement and power so you dont have to boost as much which makes a more reliable build.
I am really pissed with the shitastical people that are on these forums sometimes. If you want to make power, go the route that works for you, but just do it right the first time.
Baron: I agree with the K being a marvel of engineering, except that it rotates cw. I have heard that they do have oiling issues but I heard that people just drilled out a couple oil ports and that solved the problem. Personally, my route is going to be getting a project rex and keepin the vic as a DD, my head swap and a cam once i get it will be as far as i go for it. The d17 is still a d, it can be built but theres just not a lot of aftermarket support for it still and its much easier to get an older chassis and do either a k swap in it or a b swap and boost it.
Schwoogie: I give you props for making good power out of a d17, unfortunately your personality has made you lose all your credibility, this is civicforums.com, d17 build discussions can be discussed but there is no need for an argument with everyone that questions you. I do have to ask why after you built your d17 that you didnt get an aluminum intake manifold? yes, the plastic one can take it but why not get a better flowing one, with shorter runners specifically designed for boost? And why did you use a stage 3 cam and not a stage 2 turbo cam? What are your plans for the future? Again, im not hating just wondering why some people on here are so shitty...
09-23-2010
#96
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Well i just did a head swap for my a1, got the head off craigslist for $225 already ported and polished. Got a vafc-II off a member on here for $150 shipped with a plug and play harness. The swap is pretty easy, if youve ever done a head gasket than its the same thing basically.
I would reccomend saving up as much money as possible to build the head before you swap it, whether you build it for n/a or boost. Adding a cam and springs would be a great idea, but it depends on what youre looking for. If you really wanna build youre motor, get a donor motor, and build it with pistons rods and the vtec head then swap it in.
Again, this is all what youre looking for, just remember that something is always bound to go wrong when you start something so plan accordingly. But I can definitely recommend the swap though... Its a lot of fun being able to switch your vtec engagement point and find the best engagement point.
I would reccomend saving up as much money as possible to build the head before you swap it, whether you build it for n/a or boost. Adding a cam and springs would be a great idea, but it depends on what youre looking for. If you really wanna build youre motor, get a donor motor, and build it with pistons rods and the vtec head then swap it in.
Again, this is all what youre looking for, just remember that something is always bound to go wrong when you start something so plan accordingly. But I can definitely recommend the swap though...
Its a lot of fun being able to switch your vtec engagement point and find the best engagement point.
09-23-2010
#97
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Your cousins will probably find pulling a d series head very easy, it really is, the only unfortunate thing is pulling the intake manifold, i broke the oil pressure switch doing it and that was a pain, the only thing to be really careful of is cleaning the mating surfaces to get the head gasket to seal. But yeah, thankfully modding civics is relatively cheap compared to modding other cars, good luck let me know if you do it and run into any problems.
09-23-2010
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Definitely just read this thread again and yeah this thread is so full of failure. A motor can be built, yes, no matter what it is. The argument i guess is which is better to start off of: the k or the d? The answer is the d but its all about what money you have to spend and what the car is used for. If you go the d17 route you have more maintenance issues, these come with any engine running high boost, its just part of the game. So in the long run you may spend just as much money boosting the d17 as you would swapping and boosting the k.
For DD going the k route is the best option start with more displacement and power so you dont have to boost as much which makes a more reliable build.
I am really pissed with the shitastical people that are on these forums sometimes. If you want to make power, go the route that works for you, but just do it right the first time.
Baron: I agree with the K being a marvel of engineering, except that it rotates cw. I have heard that they do have oiling issues but I heard that people just drilled out a couple oil ports and that solved the problem. Personally, my route is going to be getting a project rex and keepin the vic as a DD, my head swap and a cam once i get it will be as far as i go for it. The d17 is still a d, it can be built but theres just not a lot of aftermarket support for it still and its much easier to get an older chassis and do either a k swap in it or a b swap and boost it.
Schwoogie: I give you props for making good power out of a d17, unfortunately your personality has made you lose all your credibility, this is civicforums.com, d17 build discussions can be discussed but there is no need for an argument with everyone that questions you. I do have to ask why after you built your d17 that you didnt get an aluminum intake manifold? yes, the plastic one can take it but why not get a better flowing one, with shorter runners specifically designed for boost? And why did you use a stage 3 cam and not a stage 2 turbo cam? What are your plans for the future? Again, im not hating just wondering why some people on here are so shitty...
For DD going the k route is the best option start with more displacement and power so you dont have to boost as much which makes a more reliable build.
I am really pissed with the shitastical people that are on these forums sometimes. If you want to make power, go the route that works for you, but just do it right the first time.
Baron: I agree with the K being a marvel of engineering, except that it rotates cw. I have heard that they do have oiling issues but I heard that people just drilled out a couple oil ports and that solved the problem. Personally, my route is going to be getting a project rex and keepin the vic as a DD, my head swap and a cam once i get it will be as far as i go for it. The d17 is still a d, it can be built but theres just not a lot of aftermarket support for it still and its much easier to get an older chassis and do either a k swap in it or a b swap and boost it.
Schwoogie: I give you props for making good power out of a d17, unfortunately your personality has made you lose all your credibility, this is civicforums.com, d17 build discussions can be discussed but there is no need for an argument with everyone that questions you. I do have to ask why after you built your d17 that you didnt get an aluminum intake manifold? yes, the plastic one can take it but why not get a better flowing one, with shorter runners specifically designed for boost? And why did you use a stage 3 cam and not a stage 2 turbo cam? What are your plans for the future? Again, im not hating just wondering why some people on here are so shitty...
good, one more that is talking sense... Let's bring it back to topic...
09-23-2010
#100
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Definitely just read this thread again and yeah this thread is so full of failure. A motor can be built, yes, no matter what it is. The argument i guess is which is better to start off of: the k or the d? The answer is the d but its all about what money you have to spend and what the car is used for. If you go the d17 route you have more maintenance issues, these come with any engine running high boost, its just part of the game. So in the long run you may spend just as much money boosting the d17 as you would swapping and boosting the k.
For DD going the k route is the best option start with more displacement and power so you dont have to boost as much which makes a more reliable build.
I am really pissed with the shitastical people that are on these forums sometimes. If you want to make power, go the route that works for you, but just do it right the first time.
Baron: I agree with the K being a marvel of engineering, except that it rotates cw. I have heard that they do have oiling issues but I heard that people just drilled out a couple oil ports and that solved the problem. Personally, my route is going to be getting a project rex and keepin the vic as a DD, my head swap and a cam once i get it will be as far as i go for it. The d17 is still a d, it can be built but theres just not a lot of aftermarket support for it still and its much easier to get an older chassis and do either a k swap in it or a b swap and boost it.
Schwoogie: I give you props for making good power out of a d17, unfortunately your personality has made you lose all your credibility, this is civicforums.com, d17 build discussions can be discussed but there is no need for an argument with everyone that questions you. I do have to ask why after you built your d17 that you didnt get an aluminum intake manifold? yes, the plastic one can take it but why not get a better flowing one, with shorter runners specifically designed for boost? And why did you use a stage 3 cam and not a stage 2 turbo cam? What are your plans for the future? Again, im not hating just wondering why some people on here are so shitty...
For DD going the k route is the best option start with more displacement and power so you dont have to boost as much which makes a more reliable build.
I am really pissed with the shitastical people that are on these forums sometimes. If you want to make power, go the route that works for you, but just do it right the first time.
Baron: I agree with the K being a marvel of engineering, except that it rotates cw. I have heard that they do have oiling issues but I heard that people just drilled out a couple oil ports and that solved the problem. Personally, my route is going to be getting a project rex and keepin the vic as a DD, my head swap and a cam once i get it will be as far as i go for it. The d17 is still a d, it can be built but theres just not a lot of aftermarket support for it still and its much easier to get an older chassis and do either a k swap in it or a b swap and boost it.
Schwoogie: I give you props for making good power out of a d17, unfortunately your personality has made you lose all your credibility, this is civicforums.com, d17 build discussions can be discussed but there is no need for an argument with everyone that questions you. I do have to ask why after you built your d17 that you didnt get an aluminum intake manifold? yes, the plastic one can take it but why not get a better flowing one, with shorter runners specifically designed for boost? And why did you use a stage 3 cam and not a stage 2 turbo cam? What are your plans for the future? Again, im not hating just wondering why some people on here are so shitty...
09-23-2010
#101
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im am not trying to make an argument out of everything...everytime i say something someone else says bs or says it cant be done so idk...sorry if im not liked...it is what it is i guess.... i have an aluminum intake manifold.... i had it on the stock motor and i lost torque... i havent tried it on the built setup yet.. and as far as i know longer runners means more torque and i have a pretty good size turbo so i need all the torque i can get...when i get back to the dyno i will try it again... i used the stage3 b/c you get more hp and loose less tq...the idle is the only thing that sux sometimes... my plans are for at least 450hp by the end of the year somewhere around 500 for the spring...
The same goes for the cam, the stage 3 is for n/a, yes it works as does the stock cam which is also for n/a, but the turbo cams duration and lift is specifically designed for a turbo car, the stage 3 cam moves your powerband so far up that it can hinder your performance significantly as well. The turbo cam has your powerband placed where itll work best with boost and opens the valves at the best time for boost, etc. With such high boost you could be making the numbers you already want with the manifold and cam. I know that the stage 3 cam makes the most horsepower, but thats for n/a, boost is a whole different ball game when it comes to the cam. I sincerely suggest the turbo cam.
Again, just my $0.02...
09-23-2010
#102
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Well, depending on what youre using your car for wil determine which to use, longer runners means more low end torque but hinders upper rpm performance. Most people run aftermarket, bigger intake manifolds with bigger throttle bodies and shorter runners because boosted engines are really designed for high end performance. The stock plastic one works but an aftermarket (well, custom actually) works much better and can really help you get to your hp goals.
The same goes for the cam, the stage 3 is for n/a, yes it works as does the stock cam which is also for n/a, but the turbo cams duration and lift is specifically designed for a turbo car, the stage 3 cam moves your powerband so far up that it can hinder your performance significantly as well. The turbo cam has your powerband placed where itll work best with boost and opens the valves at the best time for boost, etc. With such high boost you could be making the numbers you already want with the manifold and cam. I know that the stage 3 cam makes the most horsepower, but thats for n/a, boost is a whole different ball game when it comes to the cam. I sincerely suggest the turbo cam.
Again, just my $0.02...
The same goes for the cam, the stage 3 is for n/a, yes it works as does the stock cam which is also for n/a, but the turbo cams duration and lift is specifically designed for a turbo car, the stage 3 cam moves your powerband so far up that it can hinder your performance significantly as well. The turbo cam has your powerband placed where itll work best with boost and opens the valves at the best time for boost, etc. With such high boost you could be making the numbers you already want with the manifold and cam. I know that the stage 3 cam makes the most horsepower, but thats for n/a, boost is a whole different ball game when it comes to the cam. I sincerely suggest the turbo cam.
Again, just my $0.02...
09-23-2010
#103
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hey appriciate the $0.02.... im using a precision sc34...alittle big for the motor and dont hit full boost till 5000 and i shift at 8200...yes the cams power range is higher but i have no $$$ left so im stuck with what i got lol... btw this is my daily driver so i havent had the time to play with the intake manifolds to see what is giving me the best power... that will be winter time when i have a beater to drive.. i street tune it and then go to the dyno to clean it up. and i think one of the kids on here made 497 or 501 at 30 something pounds...so going by what he did i think im on my way but i know what you are saying
09-23-2010
#104
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What trim sc34 are you using? and yeah i hear ya man on having no money, haha. Well if you decide not to use your aluminum one, i'd be interested in it, haha. I remember seeing that guy who had 497 at 31 psi, i have no clue what he had for internals or intake manifolds though.
09-24-2010
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its a 61 on the intake side and i think 48 on the exhaust.... this turbo was rated to 450 but i have seen over 500 so i am hoping i dont need to get another one to reach my levels i want... im pretty sure it was pistons rods sleeved built head with a stage 2 cam.... dont remember the intake manifold but im pretty sure it was custom....im pretty close to what he has motor wise( not on purpose lol) except for the cam and manifold and i use hondata and i think he might have use aem... but not sure though
I know a dub guy using a .70 air .48 exhaust turbo on his 1.8t passat. Running 27 psi it takes a while before it really spools up, usually 5000 it really starts to get going finally. I know that when he finally got an intake manifold and a catback his gains were about 50hp, plus it started spooling up a lil faster. He got a turbo cam recently but hasnt been to the dyno yet, but it does pull harder with that cam (although he had stock before). Thats the only example i know of since i dont know any turbo d17s personally besides what i see on here.
09-25-2010
#106
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The same goes for the cam, the stage 3 is for n/a, yes it works as does the stock cam which is also for n/a, but the turbo cams duration and lift is specifically designed for a turbo car, the stage 3 cam moves your powerband so far up that it can hinder your performance significantly as well. The turbo cam has your powerband placed where itll work best with boost and opens the valves at the best time for boost, etc. With such high boost you could be making the numbers you already want with the manifold and cam. I know that the stage 3 cam makes the most horsepower, but thats for n/a, boost is a whole different ball game when it comes to the cam. I sincerely suggest the turbo cam.
Again, just my $0.02...
Stage 3 cam does not make the most horsepower N/A and it does not move your power band up.
it moves it down so you have massive amounts of torque down low. It has no top end N/A it will get you up to about 80 real quick and then it will fall flat on it's face
the d17 does not make enough static compression to make the cam effective while being N/A maybe with gx pistons but not stock
09-25-2010
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Stage 3 cam does not make the most horsepower N/A and it does not move your power band up.
it moves it down so you have massive amounts of torque down low. It has no top end N/A it will get you up to about 80 real quick and then it will fall flat on it's face
the d17 does not make enough static compression to make the cam effective while being N/A maybe with gx pistons but not stock
it moves it down so you have massive amounts of torque down low. It has no top end N/A it will get you up to about 80 real quick and then it will fall flat on it's face
the d17 does not make enough static compression to make the cam effective while being N/A maybe with gx pistons but not stock
Now if the build were to only consist of a stage 3 cam and no internals then yeah you would be right, it would have some low end torque but would fall flat on its face beyond 5500 rpm or so. This is because of the stock compression.
09-25-2010
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Maybe my wording confused you, but the stage 3 cam makes the most hp (out of the 4 available) for a n/a build (this is including internals) If you look at crowers website the specs for the stage 3 cams rpm range is much higher than stock, and within that rpm range the power band is moved up. Maybe if we could find some dyno sheets to look at we could know for sure.
Now if the build were to only consist of a stage 3 cam and no internals then yeah you would be right, it would have some low end torque but would fall flat on its face beyond 5500 rpm or so. This is because of the stock compression.
Now if the build were to only consist of a stage 3 cam and no internals then yeah you would be right, it would have some low end torque but would fall flat on its face beyond 5500 rpm or so. This is because of the stock compression.
09-25-2010
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Maybe my wording confused you, but the stage 3 cam makes the most hp (out of the 4 available) for a n/a build (this is including internals) If you look at crowers website the specs for the stage 3 cams rpm range is much higher than stock, and within that rpm range the power band is moved up. Maybe if we could find some dyno sheets to look at we could know for sure.
Now if the build were to only consist of a stage 3 cam and no internals then yeah you would be right, it would have some low end torque but would fall flat on its face beyond 5500 rpm or so. This is because of the stock compression.
Now if the build were to only consist of a stage 3 cam and no internals then yeah you would be right, it would have some low end torque but would fall flat on its face beyond 5500 rpm or so. This is because of the stock compression.
sorry but I have dealt with every single cam crower makes for the d17 the stage 3 does not do jack **** on N/A and I have raised the compression on my engine before I went boosted and was running the stage 3
crower can say what they want but they never actually tested one on one of these motors. I went further than anyone else with the NA on the d17. I ended up with some were around 160-170 possibly 175 N/A that was with 10 to 1 compression ratio (actaully higher cause the block and head was decked a couple of times so it might be like 10.5 to 1 or higher), custom intake mani, 4-2-1 dc sports full race header. Fully flow benched port and polished head, w/ crower valve springs retainers, Crower stage 2 N/A cam (also ran the stage 3 but it does not make power) , bronse valve guides, de-shrouded valves black nitride flat bottom valves, ARP head studs and rod bolts, oh and K-pro
there are a bunch of NA thread up on here still go have a look.
and jonathan2006 is about to be the next person to take it to the next level with the GX piston which will put his compression at 12.5 to 1. it was just too hard for me to try to get my hands on the pistons and when I did the calculator on how much extra power I would make from bumping up to that high of a compression it will only gain 11 hp which wasn't worth it.
also the stage 2 cam you can run the rpm's up a lot higher than the stage 3 cam before the power band falls away
Last edited by bomerman19; 09-25-2010 at 03:03 PM.
09-25-2010
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sorry but I have dealt with every single cam crower makes for the d17 the stage 3 does not do jack **** on N/A and I have raised the compression on my engine before I went boosted and was running the stage 3
crower can say what they want but they never actually tested one on one of these motors. I went further than anyone else with the NA on the d17. I ended up with some were around 160-170 possibly 175 N/A that was with 10 to 1 compression ratio (actaully higher cause the block and head was decked a couple of times so it might be like 10.5 to 1 or higher), custom intake mani, 4-2-1 dc sports full race header. Fully flow benched port and polished head, w/ crower valve springs retainers, Crower stage 2 N/A cam (also ran the stage 3 but it does not make power) , bronse valve guides, de-shrouded valves black nitride flat bottom valves, ARP head studs and rod bolts, oh and K-pro
there are a bunch of NA thread up on here still go have a look.
and jonathan2006 is about to be the next person to take it to the next level with the GX piston which will put his compression at 12.5 to 1. it was just too hard for me to try to get my hands on the pistons and when I did the calculator on how much extra power I would make from bumping up to that high of a compression it will only gain 11 hp which wasn't worth it.
also the stage 2 cam you can run the rpm's up a lot higher than the stage 3 cam before the power band falls away
09-26-2010
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so what setup you have in it now??? if you dont mind me asking... i personally never tried the cam NA...i was turbo first then decided to do a cam and that came woke up the car... i mean zero to hero.... i am happy with it but never tried any other cams so i dont have anything to compare to...
The current setup is the flowbenched head valves all that jazz with the crower stage 2 NA cam and that is killing me cause there is so much overlap in the cam that it is blowing all the boost right out of the motor but I am dropping the stage 2 boost cam in tomorrow. I also stumbled across a built block with a 1000 miles on it and crower rods, wiesco pistons, block saver, and darton sleeves(nice but not necessary) for $800 so I have that in there. M-factory LSD, TiAl wastegate and BOV (7.5 lbs spring), jdm fabtech custom prototype long tube intake mani, k-pro, junk OBX turbo Mani (working on making a new turbo mani for the 7thgen community), and T3 super 60 with .42 AR., and 750 RC injectors (walboro 255 goes in tomorrow also)
Its fast it jumps up quick but since it has the NA cam in it the power band is from 4000 to 5000 rpm and thats pretty much it. since we have a couple 7thgens that are making 220 and 240 on 10 lbs up here and we know what they feel like mine seems to feel like to everyone else that it is making around 250-260 on 7.5lbs.
for N/A the stage 3 has no HP it's all torque and it is super low so if you had a good clutch and and your were good off the line you could take any one off the line it made so much so quick but as soon as you got up to 60-80 the car just slowed way down and everyone else would blow past. but the stage 3 idles really nicely compared to the stage 2 NA cam.
stage 1 is great drop in no tune just go and a good 20 hp increase
stage 2 N/A makes the most power N/A but you need k-pro to tame the idle cause it is rough and lopey.
and I have even played with Gerry's custom cam profile I liked that one a lot but it is too rough for stock valves and will break them eventually unless you have hardened valves. But there is only a couple of people that have seen that cam and only a couple that have the specs and part number for that cam.
stage 2 boost vs. stage 3 with boost is a hard one I think i like the stage 2 boost under boost better. the stage 3 is good we had it on Andy's car (the one that hit 489 hp) but I don't think it wakes up till like 11 lbs when you get enough static compression in the car
stage 2 boost= power plus smoothness IMO
09-26-2010
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sorry but I have dealt with every single cam crower makes for the d17 the stage 3 does not do jack **** on N/A and I have raised the compression on my engine before I went boosted and was running the stage 3
crower can say what they want but they never actually tested one on one of these motors. I went further than anyone else with the NA on the d17. I ended up with some were around 160-170 possibly 175 N/A that was with 10 to 1 compression ratio (actaully higher cause the block and head was decked a couple of times so it might be like 10.5 to 1 or higher), custom intake mani, 4-2-1 dc sports full race header. Fully flow benched port and polished head, w/ crower valve springs retainers, Crower stage 2 N/A cam (also ran the stage 3 but it does not make power) , bronse valve guides, de-shrouded valves black nitride flat bottom valves, ARP head studs and rod bolts, oh and K-pro
there are a bunch of NA thread up on here still go have a look.
and jonathan2006 is about to be the next person to take it to the next level with the GX piston which will put his compression at 12.5 to 1. it was just too hard for me to try to get my hands on the pistons and when I did the calculator on how much extra power I would make from bumping up to that high of a compression it will only gain 11 hp which wasn't worth it.
also the stage 2 cam you can run the rpm's up a lot higher than the stage 3 cam before the power band falls away
Are you coming to IA next month Bomerman?
And im pretty much convinced not to even try to build n/a anymore. I think its time for boost.
09-26-2010
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09-26-2010
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oh I forgot that they had more than one
and nope I have boilermakers wedding on the 16th and closing on my new house on the 18th plus I have class
and then in the mix of it all I am working on new turbo mani's for the d17 and brake kits for the toyota tacoma's (taco's) I won't be able to make it out till next summer. but this last one was so big that they ran out of room at the race track
and nope I have boilermakers wedding on the 16th and closing on my new house on the 18th plus I have class
and then in the mix of it all I am working on new turbo mani's for the d17 and brake kits for the toyota tacoma's (taco's) I won't be able to make it out till next summer. but this last one was so big that they ran out of room at the race track
09-26-2010
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oh I forgot that they had more than one
and nope I have boilermakers wedding on the 16th and closing on my new house on the 18th plus I have class
and then in the mix of it all I am working on new turbo mani's for the d17 and brake kits for the toyota tacoma's (taco's) I won't be able to make it out till next summer. but this last one was so big that they ran out of room at the race track
and nope I have boilermakers wedding on the 16th and closing on my new house on the 18th plus I have class
and then in the mix of it all I am working on new turbo mani's for the d17 and brake kits for the toyota tacoma's (taco's) I won't be able to make it out till next summer. but this last one was so big that they ran out of room at the race track
09-26-2010
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I'm boosted now I turbo'ed the car in 3 days and made my ic piping and down pipe from scratch and I did this the weekend before IA and then drove it from DC to IA.
The current setup is the flowbenched head valves all that jazz with the crower stage 2 NA cam and that is killing me cause there is so much overlap in the cam that it is blowing all the boost right out of the motor but I am dropping the stage 2 boost cam in tomorrow. I also stumbled across a built block with a 1000 miles on it and crower rods, wiesco pistons, block saver, and darton sleeves(nice but not necessary) for $800 so I have that in there. M-factory LSD, TiAl wastegate and BOV (7.5 lbs spring), jdm fabtech custom prototype long tube intake mani, k-pro, junk OBX turbo Mani (working on making a new turbo mani for the 7thgen community), and T3 super 60 with .42 AR., and 750 RC injectors (walboro 255 goes in tomorrow also)
Its fast it jumps up quick but since it has the NA cam in it the power band is from 4000 to 5000 rpm and thats pretty much it. since we have a couple 7thgens that are making 220 and 240 on 10 lbs up here and we know what they feel like mine seems to feel like to everyone else that it is making around 250-260 on 7.5lbs.
for N/A the stage 3 has no HP it's all torque and it is super low so if you had a good clutch and and your were good off the line you could take any one off the line it made so much so quick but as soon as you got up to 60-80 the car just slowed way down and everyone else would blow past. but the stage 3 idles really nicely compared to the stage 2 NA cam.
stage 1 is great drop in no tune just go and a good 20 hp increase
stage 2 N/A makes the most power N/A but you need k-pro to tame the idle cause it is rough and lopey.
and I have even played with Gerry's custom cam profile I liked that one a lot but it is too rough for stock valves and will break them eventually unless you have hardened valves. But there is only a couple of people that have seen that cam and only a couple that have the specs and part number for that cam.
stage 2 boost vs. stage 3 with boost is a hard one I think i like the stage 2 boost under boost better. the stage 3 is good we had it on Andy's car (the one that hit 489 hp) but I don't think it wakes up till like 11 lbs when you get enough static compression in the car
stage 2 boost= power plus smoothness IMO
The current setup is the flowbenched head valves all that jazz with the crower stage 2 NA cam and that is killing me cause there is so much overlap in the cam that it is blowing all the boost right out of the motor but I am dropping the stage 2 boost cam in tomorrow. I also stumbled across a built block with a 1000 miles on it and crower rods, wiesco pistons, block saver, and darton sleeves(nice but not necessary) for $800 so I have that in there. M-factory LSD, TiAl wastegate and BOV (7.5 lbs spring), jdm fabtech custom prototype long tube intake mani, k-pro, junk OBX turbo Mani (working on making a new turbo mani for the 7thgen community), and T3 super 60 with .42 AR., and 750 RC injectors (walboro 255 goes in tomorrow also)
Its fast it jumps up quick but since it has the NA cam in it the power band is from 4000 to 5000 rpm and thats pretty much it. since we have a couple 7thgens that are making 220 and 240 on 10 lbs up here and we know what they feel like mine seems to feel like to everyone else that it is making around 250-260 on 7.5lbs.
for N/A the stage 3 has no HP it's all torque and it is super low so if you had a good clutch and and your were good off the line you could take any one off the line it made so much so quick but as soon as you got up to 60-80 the car just slowed way down and everyone else would blow past. but the stage 3 idles really nicely compared to the stage 2 NA cam.
stage 1 is great drop in no tune just go and a good 20 hp increase
stage 2 N/A makes the most power N/A but you need k-pro to tame the idle cause it is rough and lopey.
and I have even played with Gerry's custom cam profile I liked that one a lot but it is too rough for stock valves and will break them eventually unless you have hardened valves. But there is only a couple of people that have seen that cam and only a couple that have the specs and part number for that cam.
stage 2 boost vs. stage 3 with boost is a hard one I think i like the stage 2 boost under boost better. the stage 3 is good we had it on Andy's car (the one that hit 489 hp) but I don't think it wakes up till like 11 lbs when you get enough static compression in the car
stage 2 boost= power plus smoothness IMO
09-26-2010
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It would probably take me about 10 hours to drive all the way out there from richmond. And yeah the summer one was really big and ungodly hot. I think they are thinking of moving the summer one because there was not enough room but we will see I plan on being there next year.
sweet...nice setup...i have to agree when i was around like 8-10psi the car moved but once i was at 15psi it started to go good. i am assuming that is also due to the fact that im starting to get into the efficency range of my turbo.....since you have had both stage2 turbo and stage 3 NA cams the only problem i seen to have is i cant get it to idle lower than 1000 and turn the wheel and not have the car stall...just wondering if the stage2 was any better
Thanks once the cam and fuel pump go in (started raining today so no go) it's just an electronic boost controller and tune and I am done till I can afford a new turbo. and once I get a new turbo I will go for broke and try and set a new record. probably going to be a GT30 dual ball bearing with a t3/4 twin scroll 3 inch v-banded housing and 3 inch exhaust but that is pricey and I am buying a house so money is going to be tight for that one so it might be a while
and there's boost and then there is BOOST. I know all about big boost from andyman97 car (375 hp @ 20 psi street map, and 489Hp @ 30 psi race map & c16) I got to drive it a lot.
you don't want the idle lower than 1000 for that cam you want it at either 1000 or 1100 rpm. and then use the slide in k-pro to adjust the duty so it doesn't stall at full lock.
and the stage 2 idle wise k-pro is truly the only way to get the car to idle at all with the N/A stage 2 and even with k-pro it fights it like you wouldn't believe. you are either stalling or spiking the idle it is the hardest cam to get to idle it's ridiculous.
09-27-2010
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It would probably take me about 10 hours to drive all the way out there from richmond. And yeah the summer one was really big and ungodly hot. I think they are thinking of moving the summer one because there was not enough room but we will see I plan on being there next year.
Thanks once the cam and fuel pump go in (started raining today so no go) it's just an electronic boost controller and tune and I am done till I can afford a new turbo. and once I get a new turbo I will go for broke and try and set a new record. probably going to be a GT30 dual ball bearing with a t3/4 twin scroll 3 inch v-banded housing and 3 inch exhaust but that is pricey and I am buying a house so money is going to be tight for that one so it might be a while
and there's boost and then there is BOOST. I know all about big boost from andyman97 car (375 hp @ 20 psi street map, and 489Hp @ 30 psi race map & c16) I got to drive it a lot.
you don't want the idle lower than 1000 for that cam you want it at either 1000 or 1100 rpm. and then use the slide in k-pro to adjust the duty so it doesn't stall at full lock.
and the stage 2 idle wise k-pro is truly the only way to get the car to idle at all with the N/A stage 2 and even with k-pro it fights it like you wouldn't believe. you are either stalling or spiking the idle it is the hardest cam to get to idle it's ridiculous.
Thanks once the cam and fuel pump go in (started raining today so no go) it's just an electronic boost controller and tune and I am done till I can afford a new turbo. and once I get a new turbo I will go for broke and try and set a new record. probably going to be a GT30 dual ball bearing with a t3/4 twin scroll 3 inch v-banded housing and 3 inch exhaust but that is pricey and I am buying a house so money is going to be tight for that one so it might be a while
and there's boost and then there is BOOST. I know all about big boost from andyman97 car (375 hp @ 20 psi street map, and 489Hp @ 30 psi race map & c16) I got to drive it a lot.
you don't want the idle lower than 1000 for that cam you want it at either 1000 or 1100 rpm. and then use the slide in k-pro to adjust the duty so it doesn't stall at full lock.
and the stage 2 idle wise k-pro is truly the only way to get the car to idle at all with the N/A stage 2 and even with k-pro it fights it like you wouldn't believe. you are either stalling or spiking the idle it is the hardest cam to get to idle it's ridiculous.
09-27-2010
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no there is no reason to by the time you switch over to c16 the methanol just because added weight yeah you could possibly squeeze out more but 400 on the street in a fwd car with a LSD is already too much to handle so why bother unless it is all drag.
the record is held by andyman97 I shot the video of it and helped build that car 489hp on 30lbs of boost and c16 race gas.
the only person that has come really close to beating him out is lsbrazila down in brazil but he has been having trouble getting things together he almost gets it and then something goes boom.
I'd say next in line would be me but it is going to require a different turbo a new custom mani (which i haven't thought up of yet) and new exhaust. that is of course if I even want to go that far to be honest I don't think I do cause 375-400 on the street is too much to handle for FWD and I am just having too much fun where I am at right the moment. If I did try and break it it would be for my buddy george the dc crew and a couple of guys over on 7thgen I don't think it would be for me and it would be a while down the road.
the record is held by andyman97 I shot the video of it and helped build that car 489hp on 30lbs of boost and c16 race gas.
the only person that has come really close to beating him out is lsbrazila down in brazil but he has been having trouble getting things together he almost gets it and then something goes boom.
I'd say next in line would be me but it is going to require a different turbo a new custom mani (which i haven't thought up of yet) and new exhaust. that is of course if I even want to go that far to be honest I don't think I do cause 375-400 on the street is too much to handle for FWD and I am just having too much fun where I am at right the moment. If I did try and break it it would be for my buddy george the dc crew and a couple of guys over on 7thgen I don't think it would be for me and it would be a while down the road.
