cmiller_01ex

the reason i decided to turbo instead of swap is because i can put a turbo kit on the car with a mild tune and it will run for alot cheaper than the k swap. also its faster and my car will be down for less time. then i can put more into it part by part and save for those parts where as for k swap it all has to be done at once. yea i could buy part by part then put it all in but like you said then i have the hp that the motor has then to get faster i have to spend more money time and everything else. and as of right now i got my intercooler for free. all my piping is gonna be free. i got boost and voltage gauge free. a new gt35r turbo for 40 bucks i'll be buying a turbo manifold for 90 i got a free blow off valve. i mean after that there aint much left that needs to be bought. i'll have my ecu sent off to have hondata put on befor i even swap the manual into it. so i'll be set. there are a few odds and ends left in my turbo kit i know but i wont be spending the 4 grand that you did. also since im running used or cheap parts i can always swap out the stuff for higher grade parts when ever i can afford them too. the k swap is only expensive parts. but from what ive seen is worth it as well. idk maybe i'll get another civic one day and swap a k just to say i have both.

CrewChief

iTrader: (1)

Hey I'm all about turboing a D17 over a K swap. Thats why I did it. Keep us posted on how it works out for you. I loved mine for the last 9 Years. Never had a problem that I didnt cause.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

late reply, but it's about laws - ye can't put an engine older than the shell in it. Emission reasons, maybe?

asvarelaem2

ehm...hey there folks...it's 1am and i've been jumping around the forum reading on some info on boosting. I'm 19 and still learning about all this goodness....so...anyway...boost seems fun and cheaper than the k swap...found a turbo kit for the d17 for 1k on ebay...i'm a college kid so this is still tough for me to afford. every single other part from ebay has treated me great...and don't see why this wouldn't either. so i'm guessing i'd buy that bad boy and then buy a piggy back f/ic like this ....i've never tuned a car...and am avoiding dyno tuning for sake of $$ but have heard of street tuning..and would like to learn more about this...keep in mind that i'd like to push about 150-190whp...not too crazy but still good for driving to school and schooling a few cars here and there. I'm not trying to spend money on more internals at the moment so trying to make the best speed for the least money...while prolonging my engine's life...i care more about my engine than power...cuz...well..it's the only car i have...i'd like a bit more guidance on how this tuning works from the right people who've had experience...maybe just post me a link on how to even install or use a piggy back...i've read info here..i'd just like a bit more personal input. please explain as if you were talking to a child.

MindBomber

Street tuning is NOT a wise idea, especially on a finicky piggy back. Read up, you'll see lots of engines have been destroyed because people tried to street tune. Even if you cheap out on everything else, don't cheap out on the tune because that will be what really makes a difference in terms of reliability.

My honest opinion, if budget is a serious concern do not even consider turbo. Just stay N/A.

civicjtq

Could someone help me out here... .

okay I have a Greddy turbo kit with greddy ultimate e management but I have ordered hondata flash-pro to use instead.. what do I do step by step to remove the Greddy E management.. and do I HAVE TO get my ECU back to stock somehow before letting the performance garage tune my car with flash-pro????

DragonCivic

Hey guys i'm looking to Turbo my 7th gen but the issues im running with is what Fuel Rails would i need to use? My 2001 EX A/T is my daily driver show car and only gonna be running AEM F/IC, Mishimoto Transmission Cooler w/ Fan, Honda Of Japan 410/cc injectors, AEM Fuel pressure Regulator and of course Walbro 255LPH fuel pump...I been looking for them day and night and no sign...What the hell do I do? I had dreams about doing K20 but i know it won't be in this lifetime..Any help would be nice guys

Thanks

CrewChief

iTrader: (1)

you will need to modify your stock rail o swap to the D16Y8 intake manifold.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Whoe... CrewChief.. Back again.

CrewChief

iTrader: (1)

I check in from time to time.

civic_pro

7 or 8 lbs is about the most you can run on a bone stock engine without problems, but you have to bump up the fuel to 45psi with FPR

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

Tom's (BlueEM2) trying to be a troll. lol. He knows better.

31psi was done by this dude named Andy (used to be a member here before the great "schism" -- when 7thgencivic.com was bought by the guys that changed it to civicforums.com). 31psi on a built as hell D17A1 with an -a2 head, stage 3 cam, blah blah blah.. Put down 489whp and 360ft-lbs.

mac25

You can actually run both a turbo and a supercharger. it's known as a twin charged set up.

but you won't need it. you generally don't run both together. the supercharger is used while the turbo is spooling (building enough force for boost by the exhaust spinning the turbo turbine) because the supercharger is belt driven and makes boost at any rpm. where as the turbo charger will need enough exhaust gas to spin the turbine which creates intake boost.

(how ever, this is for twin screw/roots superchargers. a centerfugal supercharger is basically a turbocharger that is belt driven and will also need spooling time)

now the reason you won't need a twin charged setupis that your engine is low displacment, meaning the amount of air and fuel which can be burned and turned into exhaust is low in volume. this means you can run a smaller turbo and it will be able to make your power needs. if you had a large engine you'd need a large turbo to be able to handle the additional volume, these larger turbos need time to build pressure, which is where the supercharger is handy.


as well for the transmission swap it shouldn't be too pricey, maybe $800 in parts and rented equipment, they go for about $500 here in BC, Canada. but it will be a pain in the ***.

to remove the auto stuff you have to

-disconnect the battery lead
-drain oil
-drain transmission
-drain coolant

-unhook the auto engine harness

- take out your drivers seat
-take apart the auto shifter assembly

-remove the header

-pull the axles out from the transmission

-pull the engine out with a hoist

-jack up the car
- remove the auto sub-frame

- remove the auto ECU

to install the manual stuff

-remove auto transmission from engine, replace with manual

-wire in the manual ecu and engine harness

-install the manual sub-frame

-drop in the engine

- replace axles (you might need manual axles)

-replace header

-fill the fluids

-connect the manual shifter, shift linkage, clutch, clutch fluid

-reinstall the seat

-connect the battery
-and ground a few of the wires only auto's use, one is the park brake and the park lights (you'll have to find a DIY on which wires, as i've forgot)

optional installation

manual shifter housing and boot
manual dash cluster.

CrewChief

iTrader: (1)

Andy never got that car to run reliable. I know cause I used to work on it with him. He would keep stretching timing belts and jump timing. Best I ever got out of mine was 328whp and 318wtq at 25psi. It was great and daily driven at 25psi. I could have done more but didn't want to splurge in a EL manifold. stuck with my dezod log mani. for around 5k you can have a really reliable and well built 300+ D17.