D16 or B18B rods in D17?
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Is it possible to use an aftermarket d16 rods in a d17? Or fit b18b rods?
The aftermarket connecting rods available for the d17 are so far for my budget, and is easy to found used d16 rods.
I also heard about usisng b18b rods in d16's. Is it possible with the d17? I know both rods (d16 and d17) have the same lengths as the b18b, but what about the "main" bore diameter and pin diameter? And what about clearance issues? The d17 have more stroke, I think it can affect the clearance between the piston and rod.
Another thing is the thickness of the rod. Does them fit on the d17 crank?
The aftermarket connecting rods available for the d17 are so far for my budget, and is easy to found used d16 rods.
I also heard about usisng b18b rods in d16's. Is it possible with the d17? I know both rods (d16 and d17) have the same lengths as the b18b, but what about the "main" bore diameter and pin diameter? And what about clearance issues? The d17 have more stroke, I think it can affect the clearance between the piston and rod.
Another thing is the thickness of the rod. Does them fit on the d17 crank?
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Rep Power: 325 Re: D16 or B18B rods in D17?
The journal width is the same for the d17 and the d16. I think the d16 stroke is too short and the ls rods have a longer stroke so I don't think they'll work. I haven't taken the measurements but this would be my assumptions. I'd try checking honda tech for the stroke of the d16 and b18 to find out but I doubt you'll want to use them. If Gery comes across this post, I'm sure he'll chime in, I believe he knows the rod differences by heart.
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Rep Power: 399 Re: D16 or B18B rods in D17?
The journal width is the same for the d17 and the d16. I think the d16 stroke is too short and the ls rods have a longer stroke so I don't think they'll work. I haven't taken the measurements but this would be my assumptions. I'd try checking honda tech for the stroke of the d16 and b18 to find out but I doubt you'll want to use them. If Gery comes across this post, I'm sure he'll chime in, I believe he knows the rod differences by heart.
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I think it will show some dividends. I thought of trying to use some SCATs or EAGLEs because the specs on the rods from the D17 to D16 are close, but far from from spot on:
Center to center
5.394 for both
BE Bore
1.890 for both
BE Width
D17 .780
D16 .892
PE Bore
.748 both
PE Width
D17 .90
D16 .716
Rep it up!
Center to center
5.394 for both
BE Bore
1.890 for both
BE Width
D17 .780
D16 .892
PE Bore
.748 both
PE Width
D17 .90
D16 .716
Rep it up!
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BE Width
D17 .780
D16 .892
PE Bore
.748 both
PE Width
D17 .90
D16 .716
----------------
Then a d16 rod don't fit on a d17 crank and a d17 rod don't fit on a d16 piston?
What about the b18b? I really about using them on a d16 using a 19mm pin bushing.
D17 .780
D16 .892
PE Bore
.748 both
PE Width
D17 .90
D16 .716
----------------
Then a d16 rod don't fit on a d17 crank and a d17 rod don't fit on a d16 piston?
What about the b18b? I really about using them on a d16 using a 19mm pin bushing.
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Another thing is I plann to use P29 (ZC) piston on my N/A d17 with 11:1 to 11.5:1 compression. To do that I have to send the ZC pistons with the D17 rods to a machine shop, so they "cut" the "PE width" of the d17 rod from .90 to .716 to fit on the pistons. Right? Or is better to "open" the piston instead the rod?
The d17 rod could hold the extra compression?
P.S.
What ring gap you suggest?
The d17 rod could hold the extra compression?
P.S.
What ring gap you suggest?
Last edited by gmcuajo; 04-26-2007 at 11:59 AM.
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Rep Power: 399 Re: D16 or B18B rods in D17?
I'm beginning to not see the point of all this. Crowers are around 689 for a set, eagles/scats are 300 ish IIRC.... so by the time you have a shop start milling and boring rods and checking to see how much of this actually fits together... how much money do you honestly think you're gonna save?
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Rep Power: 272 Re: D16 or B18B rods in D17?
Yeah it definetely will be way more money to go about it that way, if it even some how works out correctly. Im pretty sure right off hand the D17 pistons have a different compression height and the combustion chambers are bigger. If you are gonna do it this way its best if you use a whole d16 setup. I got the crank for next to nothing, the oil pump was getting replaced anyways, my scat rods were dirt cheap and the SRPs I got from our supplier for a steal too. In cases like that, its not a bad way to go. What you are planning on doing will cost you more and probably create lots of headaches for ya. Any good machine shop wont be able to spec all that stuff out and machine it up for the cost of buying either a D16 rotating assembly or a D17.
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[QUOTE=Boilermaker1;4180829]I'm beginning to not see the point of all this. Crowers are around 689 for a set, eagles/scats are 300 ish IIRC.... QUOTE]
So eagle/scats have a set for d17 for $300? If yes, I didn't knew. Tell where I can buy them.
The d16 rods can be found used at low cost.
And spent $689 for Crower rods, is a lot of money...
So eagle/scats have a set for d17 for $300? If yes, I didn't knew. Tell where I can buy them.
The d16 rods can be found used at low cost.
And spent $689 for Crower rods, is a lot of money...
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Yeah it definetely will be way more money to go about it that way, if it even some how works out correctly. Im pretty sure right off hand the D17 pistons have a different compression height and the combustion chambers are bigger. If you are gonna do it this way its best if you use a whole d16 setup. I got the crank for next to nothing, the oil pump was getting replaced anyways, my scat rods were dirt cheap and the SRPs I got from our supplier for a steal too. In cases like that, its not a bad way to go. What you are planning on doing will cost you more and probably create lots of headaches for ya. Any good machine shop wont be able to spec all that stuff out and machine it up for the cost of buying either a D16 rotating assembly or a D17.
I order ZC replacement pistons for $103 with pins, rings...
Making it fit in the head is the easiest part. Use a 0.030 gasket, cut off 1.5mm of the compression height, notch for the valves, then cut off some the dome to achieve the desire compression.
What I am worry is with the fitment of the d17 rod with the zc pistons, and if the rods will hold that compression (horsepower). But I know that a machine shop can "shave" the pistons to make them fit. They do that with the Integra Type R pistons to fit the B18B rods.
Last edited by gmcuajo; 04-26-2007 at 09:44 PM.
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Rep Power: 399 Re: D16 or B18B rods in D17?
[QUOTE=gmcuajo;4181021] eagle doesnt make D17 rods. they make D16 rods, but then you need to play with them
If you think 689 for crowers is a lot, then dont look at the price of Pauter or carillos.
Regardless.... there's a price to play the game, especially with an oddball engine. You either play it, or you figure out how to do it some other way, which usually ends up being more expensive. If you want to go through all that crap, then one would assume you got the know how to figure it out. Other wise, you shouldnt be even thinking about trying it.
I'm beginning to not see the point of all this. Crowers are around 689 for a set, eagles/scats are 300 ish IIRC.... QUOTE]
So eagle/scats have a set for d17 for $300? If yes, I didn't knew. Tell where I can buy them.
The d16 rods can be found used at low cost.
And spent $689 for Crower rods, is a lot of money...
So eagle/scats have a set for d17 for $300? If yes, I didn't knew. Tell where I can buy them.
The d16 rods can be found used at low cost.
And spent $689 for Crower rods, is a lot of money...
If you think 689 for crowers is a lot, then dont look at the price of Pauter or carillos.
Regardless.... there's a price to play the game, especially with an oddball engine. You either play it, or you figure out how to do it some other way, which usually ends up being more expensive. If you want to go through all that crap, then one would assume you got the know how to figure it out. Other wise, you shouldnt be even thinking about trying it.
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Rep Power: 272 Re: D16 or B18B rods in D17?
Im pretty sure you'd hafta take almost .100 off off those pistons to clear the chamber. If so, there isnt going to be anything left after you cut in valve reliefs. Another thing to take note of is that the rings may sit higher in the bore, maybe too high. You are going to change the compression so much to make things clear, you wont have any more than when you started. The D17a2 pistons come up just about flush with the cyl. There really isnt a ton of room up in there either. Why are you asking us if you are dead set that it will work though. Just do it an see what happens I guess. You say "the entire rotating assembly!" like its a big deal. I got a mint crank for 50 bucks all cleaned up. I put a complete rotating assembly with H beams and SRP forged pistons together for about 650-700. If you can beat that kind of money with those kind of parts, after all that work your going to do then maybe you can justify saying that idea is rediculous. I have had these motors side by side and weighed out all the options already. Do what you wanna man, obviously we arent going to change your mind.
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Rep Power: 257 Re: D16 or B18B rods in D17?
How much do you plan on boosting? Remember the old SF kits that ppl were using back 2 years ago. Ppl were boosting 10psi all day and blowing headgaskets from a crap fuel system. I think your internals meaning the rods will be fine for anything under 10psi. Now if your talking bigger hp numbers meaning 250+ bite the bullet and get some crower D17 rods. That's my 2cents. Good luck mate.
Just reread what I wrote and sounds like your going n/a. What compression ratio are you planning on running. 10.5:1?11:1. If you're doing a complete build just buy the crower rods and don't think twice about it.
Just reread what I wrote and sounds like your going n/a. What compression ratio are you planning on running. 10.5:1?11:1. If you're doing a complete build just buy the crower rods and don't think twice about it.
Last edited by ronaldo9; 04-27-2007 at 11:56 AM.
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Rep Power: 272 Re: D16 or B18B rods in D17?
I think they'd be fine n/a but it depends entirely on what you are doing with them. Those pistons you are going to use are way out of whack compared to d17 pistons. Everytime you change dimensions of the pistons, deck height, head surface, gasket thickness, etc., you change your compression ratio. You'll definetely need someone with extensive engine knowledge to configure it correctly. the last thing you'd want is 12.5:1 compression or to find out you really are only going up to .1 or 2 on compression when shaving the head could get you that much cheaper. Its important to remember that the compression ratings for those pistons are relative to there engine/head combo. Once you change everything, those numbers go right out the window. I'd be more concerned with cutting the tops of the pistons than the rods failing. Make sure to change out the rod bolts for ARPs and I think with good tuning you'd be ok.
#20
Re: D16 or B18B rods in D17?
ok i kno this is a very old thread. but i believe i have the reciept for a cheep good stroker build for the d17a2!
first d17a2 block with crank, then i took a set of p28 rods and piston in the block which brings my almost dead even to deck hieght.
the only problem im having is i will have a little value Slap im over deck hieght by 0.087 of an inch.
this is after the gasket and everything?
does anybody have any idea's oh how to solve this slight problem?
first d17a2 block with crank, then i took a set of p28 rods and piston in the block which brings my almost dead even to deck hieght.
the only problem im having is i will have a little value Slap im over deck hieght by 0.087 of an inch.
this is after the gasket and everything?
does anybody have any idea's oh how to solve this slight problem?
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