Progression of my K20A *updated 7/10/06
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Rep Power: 338 Progression of my K20A *updated 7/10/06
hello, I'm not sure if anyone's been keeping track of my dynos ... but just a brief summary...
I typically dyno at this shop called Hookups in Upland, CA. If anyone knows Upland, they have an elevation of 900-1300 ft (depending where you are). With each power mod I added, I would dyno again ... so here goes:
Mods:
K20A
17x7.5" ssr comps (13 pounds)
215/40/17 tires (19 pounds)
Type S Injen CAI
oem DC5-R header/cat
stock DC5-R ecu
stock DC5-R full catback exhaust (2.5" new piping on the axleback)
Nextgear Intake Manifold Gasket
dyno graph here 10/22/05
I pulled peak 200 whp, 138 wtq
Added mod:
DC Sports ceramic race header
dyno graph here 11/19/05
This time I pulled peak 207 whp, 143 wtq
Added mod:
-T1R 2.5" b-pipe (stock dc5-r is 2.125")
-225/45/17 Michelin Pilot Sport 2's (4 pounds heavier each than my previous tires)
I guess I never got around to uploading this dyno graph ... but I gained about 1 peak whp and gain 4-6 whp in the midrange in some places (after vtec). Not bad for having much heavier tires to spin.
And finally, yesterday, I dyno'ed at a different shop in Irvine, CA, which is much closer to me. I didn't add any mods, but this shop is at sealevel, unlike Upland which again is 900-1300 ft. elevation.
dyno graph here 01/10/06
I pulled 212 whp, 146 wtq.
After that, we then proceeded to remove my DC5-R axleback ... and then ran again twice and got 214 whp, 148 wtq.
good stuff, eh? ... I'm running SUPER SUPER lean from 5000-6000 rpms, which is why my power has a ridiculously huge dip ... super lean as in 15.5:1 a/f.
dyno graph here 04/08/06
this is a partial tune done at church's automotive. I had a cracked flexpipe on my header at the time, so I didn't get a full tune ... only a week later, that crack turned into a totally broken flexpipe, which made my car sound like it was open header. Currently being fixed, and I will be getting a full tune very shortly.
This time, I put down 224 hp, 165 tq. These numbers are rated at the hub because it was a dynapak dyno ... the wheel were taken off. Wheel HP numbers are around 5-10 hp less.
Dyno graph here 7/08/06 ...:
I got my new dyno .. fixed all the problems and got re-tuned.
I pulled 239.5 hp, 173.5 tq ... wewt! These numbers are rated at the hub because it was a dynapak dyno ... the wheel were taken off. Wheel HP numbers are around 5-10 hp less.
I typically dyno at this shop called Hookups in Upland, CA. If anyone knows Upland, they have an elevation of 900-1300 ft (depending where you are). With each power mod I added, I would dyno again ... so here goes:
Mods:
K20A
17x7.5" ssr comps (13 pounds)
215/40/17 tires (19 pounds)
Type S Injen CAI
oem DC5-R header/cat
stock DC5-R ecu
stock DC5-R full catback exhaust (2.5" new piping on the axleback)
Nextgear Intake Manifold Gasket
dyno graph here 10/22/05
I pulled peak 200 whp, 138 wtq
Added mod:
DC Sports ceramic race header
dyno graph here 11/19/05
This time I pulled peak 207 whp, 143 wtq
Added mod:
-T1R 2.5" b-pipe (stock dc5-r is 2.125")
-225/45/17 Michelin Pilot Sport 2's (4 pounds heavier each than my previous tires)
I guess I never got around to uploading this dyno graph ... but I gained about 1 peak whp and gain 4-6 whp in the midrange in some places (after vtec). Not bad for having much heavier tires to spin.
And finally, yesterday, I dyno'ed at a different shop in Irvine, CA, which is much closer to me. I didn't add any mods, but this shop is at sealevel, unlike Upland which again is 900-1300 ft. elevation.
dyno graph here 01/10/06
I pulled 212 whp, 146 wtq.
After that, we then proceeded to remove my DC5-R axleback ... and then ran again twice and got 214 whp, 148 wtq.
good stuff, eh? ... I'm running SUPER SUPER lean from 5000-6000 rpms, which is why my power has a ridiculously huge dip ... super lean as in 15.5:1 a/f.
dyno graph here 04/08/06
this is a partial tune done at church's automotive. I had a cracked flexpipe on my header at the time, so I didn't get a full tune ... only a week later, that crack turned into a totally broken flexpipe, which made my car sound like it was open header. Currently being fixed, and I will be getting a full tune very shortly.
This time, I put down 224 hp, 165 tq. These numbers are rated at the hub because it was a dynapak dyno ... the wheel were taken off. Wheel HP numbers are around 5-10 hp less.
Dyno graph here 7/08/06 ...:
I got my new dyno .. fixed all the problems and got re-tuned.
I pulled 239.5 hp, 173.5 tq ... wewt! These numbers are rated at the hub because it was a dynapak dyno ... the wheel were taken off. Wheel HP numbers are around 5-10 hp less.
Last edited by aznboysrfr; 07-10-2006 at 04:22 PM.
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Rep Power: 0 Cool. Why did you dyno the 3rd one at a different place? To maintain consistency you should have done the same dyno all 3 times. That extra 5whp could be just from dyno differences or even correction factor.
Reagrdless...............Nice job on the swap.
Enjoyin that swap though? Gotta be a fun ride in an EM2 N/A chassis.
Reagrdless...............Nice job on the swap.
Enjoyin that swap though? Gotta be a fun ride in an EM2 N/A chassis.
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Rep Power: 0 I have a couple questions. First if you do not mind me asking how much from start to stop did you spend. Two how hard is it to smog a swapped newer car in Cali. Its just so hard to work on any thing new that I stick to older cars. But I so want to build a streetable k20 in a crx or ek/eg. Btw your ride is siiick post up more vids maybe even track runs!
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Originally Posted by dezod
Cool. Why did you dyno the 3rd one at a different place? To maintain consistency you should have done the same dyno all 3 times. That extra 5whp could be just from dyno differences or even correction factor.
Reagrdless...............Nice job on the swap.
Enjoyin that swap though? Gotta be a fun ride in an EM2 N/A chassis.
Reagrdless...............Nice job on the swap.
Enjoyin that swap though? Gotta be a fun ride in an EM2 N/A chassis.
I originally dyno'ed there to begin with, however their dyno wasn't working properly. He had the incorrect mass drum number size, so all of his dynos were reading far too low. He very recently got it corrected and dyno'ed my car for free for my 4th dyno... otherwise I probably would've gone to him every time.
yep, it's a fantastic ride.
i'm pretty sure the only difference is the 1200-ish ft. elevation vs. the sea-level elevation.
Last edited by aznboysrfr; 01-11-2006 at 02:35 PM.
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Originally Posted by cg95660
I have a couple questions. First if you do not mind me asking how much from start to stop did you spend. Two how hard is it to smog a swapped newer car in Cali. Its just so hard to work on any thing new that I stick to older cars. But I so want to build a streetable k20 in a crx or ek/eg. Btw your ride is siiick post up more vids maybe even track runs!
I don't think it's very hard to BAR a k20 into an ep3/em2 ... trying to get it to pass BAR in an older car is another story since there are sooo many things you have to change out. Not to mention it's a few thousand dollars more expensive for the swap into an older car, again because you have to change out so many things.
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Rep Power: 305 how well does the type-s injen CAI fit for you? i need a new one, my AEM sucks, the transmission hits it everytime i go to 5th. was thinking about an Si intake also
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Originally Posted by doubledeuce2k2
how well does the type-s injen CAI fit for you? i need a new one, my AEM sucks, the transmission hits it everytime i go to 5th. was thinking about an Si intake also
when you install your intake, you gotta put it in 5th first to make sure you have enough clearance when you secure it in.
With my Injen, I had to fiddle with it a bit to make sure it fit properly. It's a very tight squeeze ... I also had to zip tie it to make sure it didn't sag too much ... and if the filter you have is too big, it's gonna hit your bumper.
a bit of a hassle for the Injen ... but it works now.
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Originally Posted by aznboysrfr
I spent probably almost $9k so far include all of my swap mods ... not including the rims.
I don't think it's very hard to BAR a k20 into an ep3/em2 ... trying to get it to pass BAR in an older car is another story since there are sooo many things you have to change out. Not to mention it's a few thousand dollars more expensive for the swap into an older car, again because you have to change out so many things.
I don't think it's very hard to BAR a k20 into an ep3/em2 ... trying to get it to pass BAR in an older car is another story since there are sooo many things you have to change out. Not to mention it's a few thousand dollars more expensive for the swap into an older car, again because you have to change out so many things.
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Originally Posted by tinman
Let me know if you get that thing legit for Cali smog. I really want to know if the ULEV designation will be a problem.
btw, you have an AWESOME house!! I love it!
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Rep Power: 338 ^ haha okay.
I'm gonna get dyno'ed again (I'm a dyno *****) on 3/11 ... there's a dyno day at one of the local shops I goto ... dynojet.
the new things I'll be adding (nothing major):
sw1, fp60/lc20, amsoil mtf and probably ngk laser iridiums (oem for rsx-s)
I'll keep you guys posted when that happens.
I'm gonna get dyno'ed again (I'm a dyno *****) on 3/11 ... there's a dyno day at one of the local shops I goto ... dynojet.
the new things I'll be adding (nothing major):
sw1, fp60/lc20, amsoil mtf and probably ngk laser iridiums (oem for rsx-s)
I'll keep you guys posted when that happens.
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Rep Power: 338 Received my SW1 filter and I put it on ... it seems like it gave me some pretty good gains.
I also just got a Toda race header and I put it on .. however, it has a cracked flex pipe, so I'm getting a very noticable exhaust leak. I have to special order the part from Toda ... it'll take up to 4 weeks ...
so I should have my next dyno with my Toda header/SW1 filter within about 6 weeks time.
I also just got a Toda race header and I put it on .. however, it has a cracked flex pipe, so I'm getting a very noticable exhaust leak. I have to special order the part from Toda ... it'll take up to 4 weeks ...
so I should have my next dyno with my Toda header/SW1 filter within about 6 weeks time.
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Originally Posted by jknudsen
Can't they overnight that stuff from Japan?! just kidding..thanks for keeping us updated...good luck on your next dyno run...
sounds stupid, but it would be nice to have it "overnighted from japan".
the flexpipe leak is giving me a headache.
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Rep Power: 248 car will be sick once u get that k-pro and smoothin that dip before vtec kicks in. u run in the 1/4? you gonna mess with the tranny?
Last edited by AznChinksta; 01-24-2006 at 02:52 PM.