Progression of my K20A *updated 7/10/06
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Rep Power: 338 yes, it is a VERY fine piece of work. I don't think it's a design flaw ... the last person who had it before me obviously broke the flex pipe, and knew it, and sold it for cheap. I just happened to be the person to pick it up.
Nah, the oem EX swaybar fits perfectly. Apparently people with rsx-s's have a problem, but there is a 1 1/2 finger clearance with the header and the front sway ... my DCRH had like a 1 finger clearance. But I know they weren't hitting the sway.
aznchink: I only ran once ... it was a 14.3 @ 99 mph with a 2.4 60' @ 80F @ 1200 ft elevation (haha). But the setup I had back then was the oem DC5-R b-pipe (2.125"), oem DC5R full header/cat. I'm putting down very close to 15 whp more than that setup ... so that's good.
as far as the tranny goes, I did put a quaife lsd in when I first got the swap ... I do plan to also add an exedy clutch/8 pound fly (as if the oem dc5r 10 pound fly isn't light enough ) and I will also be replacing my 6th gear with a 6th gear from a tsx... so my gas milage will go up since it is longer.
Right now, I'm getting 26 mpg 50/50 city/hwy combined... hopefully it'll be bumped to about 28 mpg after the 6th gear. Final drive will remain the same though.
Nah, the oem EX swaybar fits perfectly. Apparently people with rsx-s's have a problem, but there is a 1 1/2 finger clearance with the header and the front sway ... my DCRH had like a 1 finger clearance. But I know they weren't hitting the sway.
aznchink: I only ran once ... it was a 14.3 @ 99 mph with a 2.4 60' @ 80F @ 1200 ft elevation (haha). But the setup I had back then was the oem DC5-R b-pipe (2.125"), oem DC5R full header/cat. I'm putting down very close to 15 whp more than that setup ... so that's good.
as far as the tranny goes, I did put a quaife lsd in when I first got the swap ... I do plan to also add an exedy clutch/8 pound fly (as if the oem dc5r 10 pound fly isn't light enough ) and I will also be replacing my 6th gear with a 6th gear from a tsx... so my gas milage will go up since it is longer.
Right now, I'm getting 26 mpg 50/50 city/hwy combined... hopefully it'll be bumped to about 28 mpg after the 6th gear. Final drive will remain the same though.
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Originally Posted by HondaLuver
why not jsut get a real car in the begining?
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Originally Posted by 5.0calypso93lx
I'm gonna have to agree with HondaLuver on this one. How can you sleep at night knowing you just spent $9k without the Toda header, which i know isn't cheap, and run a 14.3 and have 214whp??? It just amazes me. And who knows how much you bought the car for.
what I do with my money is my decision and you have no bearing on it.
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Rep Power: 0 Yeah, no need to listen to the haters man. I'm approaching 8k for my k20a2 swap (6,xxx miles on it). It may seem high to most, but it is justified in my mind because I want it. Good luck with the Toda Manifold, I'm gonna stay posted with your manifold issues because I want the same...
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Originally Posted by aznboysrfr
hondaluver was obviously joking. he has spent more than I have. there are people on this forum who spent more than twice of what I have on their cars. It's called a hobby.
what I do with my money is my decision and you have no bearing on it.
what I do with my money is my decision and you have no bearing on it.
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Originally Posted by 5.0calypso93lx
You are right on that part, i'm just trying to understand why. And i do know exactly what its like to have built something yourself from the ground up. I did with my car, and even stripped the paint to repaint it, all new interior, new motor, tranny, everything. But i've spent less than your motor swap alone, and i'm looking for high 12's.
you obviously know that cars that are 10+ years old are going to be insanely cheap to mod/build. There are just so many domestic parts out ... it's so easy to be fast with a domestic car ... like you said, less than the cost of my swap and you're in the 12's.
If you are having trouble sleeping at night because you can't figure out why I do what I do, then you have to look at the people who are in car shows... look at cars like the Hondata cars ... look at all the K20-swapped eg hatches (who have to spend on average $1500-2000 more than I did just to get their car running), etc.
If you're gonna complain about me spending tons of money just to run a 14.3, then that is garbage. I had an oem header and exhaust at the time. Right now, my car is fully capable of running around mid 13's. This may not sound like a lot to you, but you have to look around and see how many bolton, stock ecu coupes are running mid-high 13's all motor.
I've already been down the turbo route ... and I didn't have a pleasant experience. This car is my daily driver and I could use the reliability of a motor swap.
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Rep Power: 338 my tires are sufficient enough for it.
another guy on here ran a 14.2 with his bolton k20a3 ... 1.8 or 1.9 60' if I remember correctly ... bfg kd street tires.
I just need to learn how to drive
another guy on here ran a 14.2 with his bolton k20a3 ... 1.8 or 1.9 60' if I remember correctly ... bfg kd street tires.
I just need to learn how to drive
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Originally Posted by aznboysrfr
my tires are sufficient enough for it.
another guy on here ran a 14.2 with his bolton k20a3 ... 1.8 or 1.9 60' if I remember correctly ... bfg kd street tires.
I just need to learn how to drive
another guy on here ran a 14.2 with his bolton k20a3 ... 1.8 or 1.9 60' if I remember correctly ... bfg kd street tires.
I just need to learn how to drive
hell yea you do... i grab the "oh **** bar" in your car everytime we take off... lol
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Rep Power: 0 Well good luck to you. As for my screen name, 5.0 is whats in my car and i have a 93 lx hatch mustang, and its calypso green. What do you guys do once you start making some good power, and need to get better traction?
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Rep Power: 338 daniel: it's "oh **** handle!" ;PPP
5.0: yeah, that's what I figured. The problem is that I don't like losing traction ... this is part of the reason for me going with the 2.0 instead of the 2.4L. Legal problems with cops and smog are also a BIG problem with me going 2.4L.
lots of power (300-400) isn't -too- hard to do with a 2.4L turbo ... but I don't like freeway-only races. I wouldn't be able to get traction downlow since it's FWD ...
and my favorite people to race is the AWD crowd ... who are always saying that racing from a roll or freeway races are for losers...
When some guy's awd cars loses to my fwd car, they have to feel really, really stupid.
Obviously some guy putting down 300+ awhp is gonna kill me, but you get the idea. I'm talking about the less modified ones ;P
5.0: yeah, that's what I figured. The problem is that I don't like losing traction ... this is part of the reason for me going with the 2.0 instead of the 2.4L. Legal problems with cops and smog are also a BIG problem with me going 2.4L.
lots of power (300-400) isn't -too- hard to do with a 2.4L turbo ... but I don't like freeway-only races. I wouldn't be able to get traction downlow since it's FWD ...
and my favorite people to race is the AWD crowd ... who are always saying that racing from a roll or freeway races are for losers...
When some guy's awd cars loses to my fwd car, they have to feel really, really stupid.
Obviously some guy putting down 300+ awhp is gonna kill me, but you get the idea. I'm talking about the less modified ones ;P
#47
Originally Posted by aznboysrfr
daniel: it's "oh **** handle!" ;PPP
5.0: yeah, that's what I figured. The problem is that I don't like losing traction ... this is part of the reason for me going with the 2.0 instead of the 2.4L. Legal problems with cops and smog are also a BIG problem with me going 2.4L.
lots of power (300-400) isn't -too- hard to do with a 2.4L turbo ... but I don't like freeway-only races. I wouldn't be able to get traction downlow since it's FWD ...
and my favorite people to race is the AWD crowd ... who are always saying that racing from a roll or freeway races are for losers...
When some guy's awd cars loses to my fwd car, they have to feel really, really stupid.
Obviously some guy putting down 300+ awhp is gonna kill me, but you get the idea. I'm talking about the less modified ones ;P
5.0: yeah, that's what I figured. The problem is that I don't like losing traction ... this is part of the reason for me going with the 2.0 instead of the 2.4L. Legal problems with cops and smog are also a BIG problem with me going 2.4L.
lots of power (300-400) isn't -too- hard to do with a 2.4L turbo ... but I don't like freeway-only races. I wouldn't be able to get traction downlow since it's FWD ...
and my favorite people to race is the AWD crowd ... who are always saying that racing from a roll or freeway races are for losers...
When some guy's awd cars loses to my fwd car, they have to feel really, really stupid.
Obviously some guy putting down 300+ awhp is gonna kill me, but you get the idea. I'm talking about the less modified ones ;P
i agree with you in full!i think that for a fwd dailydriver not having such high hp/tq numbers is better.having better traction and zip down low is fun period.a supercharged K is perfict.
you have a much more updated and reliable engine with the ability to keep up with current tech.i love supecharged k motors. thier powerband is amazingly fun and smooth with more than enough power for dailydriving and the ability for a good run at the strip.--s/c k20 is on my list for my 93
bottom line is people spend lots of money on manny different hobbies that simply make them happy and forfills important factors in their life.
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Rep Power: 261 i say overpowering the street is the most fun.
with a turbo/supercharger, you can always turn the power down.
With a turbo, you can control the power for each gear. Turbo XS has their 4 stage boost controller. Control the boost for the first 4 gears for traction.
with a turbo/supercharger, you can always turn the power down.
With a turbo, you can control the power for each gear. Turbo XS has their 4 stage boost controller. Control the boost for the first 4 gears for traction.
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Rep Power: 261 he is a working man. And he gets paid well for his time, and knows how to save/spend money.
unlike me. I dont get paid well and i am not good at saving my money.
unlike me. I dont get paid well and i am not good at saving my money.
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Rep Power: 0 whats he do? I work my *** off too. I work on septic tanks/septic systems and indoor plumbing, and I started saving to mod my civic at 14 and I'm now 15, but any way I add up the numbers, I still can't see a swap or turbo, is he still living at home?
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Rep Power: 338 yes, I'm still living at home ... I make just over $30k/yr ... I only have to pay for my car payments, gas, food and (recently ex-)girlfriend
although I'm spending about $225 in gas per month since I have to use 100 octane ... (but not for -too- much longer).
although I'm spending about $225 in gas per month since I have to use 100 octane ... (but not for -too- much longer).
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Rep Power: 379 lol. i spend like 35 max a week for gas now.. hehe i love 87.. hahaha.. jk man... looks like i got a rental for the next month, lets see what i get...
why don't you move out of your parents house and become a real man! lol
why don't you move out of your parents house and become a real man! lol
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Originally Posted by HondaLuver
why don't you move out of your parents house and become a real man! lol
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Rep Power: 338 Well ... I just got dyno-tuned at Church Automotive. Unfortunately, Shawn Church didn't do the tuning ... they only tuned for 1 hour too, since I didn't want to spent too much time tuning when I have a huge header leak.
Toda doesn't seem to want to call me back about a new flexpipe piece ... and it's been over 2 months now ... -_-;;;;
so anyway...
my new numbers ... 224.3 hub hp, 165.6 hub tq. This was done on a dynapak dyno, so they read roughly 10 hp higher than dynojets... so this should make it right around 214 whp. Doesn't really make sense since my last dyno was 212 whp ... since the tuning was done at a different shop, I can't overlay it from my previous dynos.
The guy who tuned my car said he'd be able to get around 230 hp if he had more time ... unfortunately when I was watching him tune, he seemed to focus most of his time on my low/non-vtec cam profile ... which I don't understand because I really don't care about low end heh. Looking at my torque curves, it really didn't look like he touched the high cam too much ... oh well.
I think shawn tuned another K20A EM2 (a member on this forum) and he got 221 hub hp with just intake, exhaust, kpro ... so I still think there can be much better improvements.
Anyway, a dyno graph will follow on Monday ... I only have a scanner at wrk.
edit : I am using straight 91 octane now.
Toda doesn't seem to want to call me back about a new flexpipe piece ... and it's been over 2 months now ... -_-;;;;
so anyway...
my new numbers ... 224.3 hub hp, 165.6 hub tq. This was done on a dynapak dyno, so they read roughly 10 hp higher than dynojets... so this should make it right around 214 whp. Doesn't really make sense since my last dyno was 212 whp ... since the tuning was done at a different shop, I can't overlay it from my previous dynos.
The guy who tuned my car said he'd be able to get around 230 hp if he had more time ... unfortunately when I was watching him tune, he seemed to focus most of his time on my low/non-vtec cam profile ... which I don't understand because I really don't care about low end heh. Looking at my torque curves, it really didn't look like he touched the high cam too much ... oh well.
I think shawn tuned another K20A EM2 (a member on this forum) and he got 221 hub hp with just intake, exhaust, kpro ... so I still think there can be much better improvements.
Anyway, a dyno graph will follow on Monday ... I only have a scanner at wrk.
edit : I am using straight 91 octane now.
Last edited by aznboysrfr; 04-08-2006 at 04:18 PM.
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Rep Power: 787 the hardest thing is finding a good tuner. if you fixed the exhaust leak, there is no excuse for the low numbers. oh and 93 octane is common around here the a/f will tell the story when you post it