tfnaaf

iTrader: (2)

Wasnt trying to make it sound like you didnt know, was just trying to be informative to the unkowning that may be reading

Jrfish007

iTrader: (3)

Careful. I've worked on old V8's, new V8's and V10's and rebuilt 2 civic motors now, and I will tell you the civic motor is far harder because it has over head cams. Older engines have the cam in the block and all you have to get the hg is remove the rockers and heads. On a civic you will have to taking the timing belt off (don't forget to get a new tensioner if the d17 is hydraulic, I'm not sure) then remove the cam and then the heads. Then after you put it back together you will have to adjust the timing of your cam (major pain) and if you screw that up, say good bye to your engine, or at least the heads, but I would replace the entire engine. Not so simple on the over head cam engines

Jrfish007

iTrader: (3)

Oh yeah, remember to have your Helm's manual there for all the torques specs, really important for aluminum engines. And make sure you torque your valve cover gasket down exactly as they say, the wrong load will cause your cam bearings to go bad and kill your cam.

2K1Civic17"Gabe

iTrader: (9)

Im thinking since the timing belt needs to be replaced, I may bring my car to a shop. Thats one thing I dont want to mess with or learn right now. Id rather somebody else mess it up, and make the shop put a new motor in.

Thanks for the info, and I will be bringing it to a shop.

Peace

2K1Civic17"Gabe

iTrader: (9)

cool cool.

Peace

Jrfish007

iTrader: (3)

Smart choice.... I know how to do it and have done, and still just take it to a shop myself.

2K1Civic17"Gabe

iTrader: (9)

would the car heat up a little bit from not having enough coolant/air in the radiator?

Last night I opened the radiator cap and there wasnt nearly enough coolant. I added some (quite a bit) until it was full,t han turned the car on with the heater/a.c on. I let it run and sit like this until no more air bubbles were coming out (they were quite large, and a LOT of them). In the end a bunch of little bubbles came out, than nothing for a minute or so. I added some more coolant, and let it sit incase it were to go down more. It was fine. So I turn the car off, add more fluid for what went down, and put the cap back on.

My car has been staying cooler today than it has any other time since ive been boosted. After a few drives, when I check the water temp, it says its cooler than its been in a LONG time.



Would being 8-12 oz. under on coolant, and having a lot of bubbles cause the car to heat up slightly? Especially after long drives on hot days?

Seems like it would, since there is less coolant, there is less heat being transfered away? Am I correct on this? I know you have to have the required amount in there for the car to work proper/cool enough. I was pretty far under.

I brought my car to a shop a month or so ago, and they were supposed to work on my clutch. They ended up taking the radiator hoses off/drained it. When I got the car towed back to me so I could work on it, the last thing I did was add coolant. I just put it in the overflow, and thought it was good. WRONG! At least its running much better now. Keep my fingers crossed I didnt damage anything.

Im still learning a shitload....

Jrfish007

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, if your car is low on coolant, it can easily over heat, more importantly it can cuase uneven heat transfer (i.e. someparts of the engine become cool while other parts heating up). This can cause uneven thermal expansion, but I'm doubting this a big problem, if it is you will notice a big power drop.

Another tip, if you have coolant in your oil (from a blown hg) you will see a tanish milky like color in your oil. Check your dip stick, maybe even drain the oil and check it. If this ever does happen, DO NOT start the car, you bearing will die quickly. But if you've made it this long, I doubt this is a problem, generally cars die in about 10 minutes under these conditions, but you can still check for piece of mind.

2K1Civic17"Gabe

iTrader: (9)

Oil is normal color. I checked it a day ago. Looks perfect for oil at around 1000 miles use. I was worried about the uneven thermal expansion as well. I think Im good to go. Car is driving like a champ today. Still about the same power, just stays way cooler. I wonder if I should risk trying out my a/c (for when the kids are in the car and only at idle when no airflow through the cabin). I think Im gonna wait until I put my throttle body bypass back. I believe thats whas causing my idle issues. Car drives/idles fine, just when I let off the gas until I come to a complete stop, the rpms stay at 1500. Once I stop and let off the break real fast, the idle stays at 700, until I tap the gas. than the same thing. It sounds like the bypass is messing something up in there.


Thanks for everything!

Peace

supermex

iTrader: (4)

HG in our car is a biach to change.
I did it the first time and it was sooo hard and time consuming
then the second time around I let my mechanic do it for $300.00 well worth it!

Gabe, you shoud concider changing for a better radiator and oil cooler when boosting.
This will keep the temperature down specialy in high temp wheather.
Also why can't your settings not save when the battery goes dead?
Are you talking about the e- manage settings?

Boosting my car was deffinately worth it, just for the learning experience along and I'm still learning there is so much I still have to learn.

Oh,I did mention that removing the thermostat will cause the computer to run at close loop and I was wrong
I stand corrected the computer will run at open loop.
Thanks Havok!

NashVegasEX

iTrader: (1)

Just a side note ... If you are going to lift the head off and replace a head gasket, spring the $96 for the ARP head studs if you havent already ... I had the same overheating issues from nitrous and after changing the HG and going to the ARP studs, I havent had a problem since ... just my .02 worth