SpdRcrChk

iTrader: (6)

NOS systems, NX systems, ZEX systems, VENOM systems. Pretty much all of these companies offer kits applicable to our cars.

thiscrackerntam

You're runnin an NX kit now arent you SpdRcrChk?

Boosted2k2

iTrader: (3)

Someone explain this to me. I know you don't spray in 1st gear. But if you have the Zex kit, how do you avoid that if you go WOT in 1st gear to start?

thiscrackerntam

I spray in 1st

SpdRcrChk

iTrader: (6)

Feather the gas and feather the clutch.

Way I did it....off the line...rev up to about 4-5 grand.....but instead of just dropping the clutch and punching the gas on the go....I'd feather the gas and the clutch till i caught traction, and then proceeded to punch it. That's the way to do it when runnin it off the line and spraying infirst gear.

You can always just hit the switch in second once you've got traction. Or get a window switch. But doing it the way i said is fine and prolly better once u get the hang of it.

02civic

iTrader: (3)

not sure about the numbers you'd get...elevation and weather along with driver skill could add up to as much as .8 +/-. With a 50 shot i'd expect to see low 15's....if not a 15 flat. a 75 shot would probably put you in the mid 14s on a stock vic...tires would hold you back though

slicksivik

iTrader: (9)

what is wot, sounds stupid, but no ones has answered it in like 5 pages and in all the posts i've seen. wot meaning 4 rpm or more or what? what just purging, can u just purge but not shot or do u have to since u cleared the line? im talking manual transmission by the way. say im driving and going like 4 rpm in 3rd gear and i keep it in third gear and just run through the rpms will the nitrous shot or what? if it does wouldn't it readline or no? does the nitrous cause it to redline or no? no ones really explained this cuz i haven't read it in any posts. im asking more how it works like step by step going through the process. ie: start at 3-4k then shift at 7k then in second gear go to 5k etc... like when would it activate or when should u activate it or how it activates. im confused on this part. and on how it would run the rpms up or whether it wont. wot doesn't mean anything to me unless u explain it to me

SpdRcrChk

iTrader: (6)

WOT = wide open throttle.

SpdRcrChk

iTrader: (6)

^^^ see above


Purging is just clearing the lines. No you don't have to spray afterwards. Hell, if you wanted to you wouldn't ever have to spray ur car at all, just go around purging. LoL But spraying is much more fun.

The nitrous doesn't cause it to redline or hit the rev limiter...you will if you don't shift in time. All the n2o does is make you faster, therefore, your RPM's / Speed will climb quicker. Just make sure you shift BEFORE 7000 RPM's. And yes....assuming you have a WOT setup....you will spray all the way through the gear until you shift/let off the gas. I wouldn't recommend power shifting......I would recommend quick shifting.

Ok here it goes...this is an EXAMPLE. It wont necessarily be like this every single time....sometimes you'll be in other gears, sometimes you'll be launching out the hole....w/e.

Say you're cruising down and you're about to race someone from a 2nd gear roll. Make sure your nitrous is activated (i.e. the switch is positioned to ON if you have this common setup and your bottle is open). Once you decide to go .....when you FLOOR the pedal (meaning you'll be at WOT) the nitrous and fuel mixture (if you have a wet kit) will spray into your TB (throttle body). Make sure you shift before 7grand......and then once you're in the next gear and at WOT again...same thing happens, etc etc.

Whether you're more comfortable with power shifting or quick shifting is a matter of choice. I always quick shifted and never had any trouble.

What RPM, what gear, what mph etc all depends on the race. They wont all be exactly the same.

Oh yeah...and try not to miss gears.

slicksivik

iTrader: (9)

im probably not the only one to want to ask this but, ... if u put the bottle in the trunk and i have a sub in there, would bumping the subs cause increased pressure in the bottle causing it to explode because its a gas and by shaking it, it causes it to expand? what would u do if it does become pressurized? i saw to use a cool towel but i think that was if it becomes to lean (to pressurized from warming it to much) also, on ur example, u said wot is wide open throttle, i kno that, but when u say wot, u mean slamming on the gas pedal and causing it to accelerate fast? also, if u are accelerating to 7000rpm would u get there quite quick considering the nitrous makes it go a lot faster? then u said u have to shift at like 7k, so the nitrous really is only running for a short few seconds. then once u shift theres no nitrous until u slam on the gas in the next gear which makes it continous from gear to gear or no? how long would u be able to do this, like from gears 2-4 or so? cuz if u go through all the gears its a good 10 seconds or 15. would that be safe on ur engine. im full of questions, sorry to ask them all just curious and considering buying it but not sure on many things. read up on all the posts in the forum and on the nx site. still doesn't answer all my questions or concerns.

SpdRcrChk

iTrader: (6)

It's heat that causes the n2o to expand. That's why people use a bottle warmer. Gas expands, pressure increases. And that's why they COOL bottles before they fill them (the opposite).

Quote:

what would u do if it does become pressurized? i saw to use a cool towel but i think that was if it becomes to lean (to pressurized from warming it to much)

THat last one seems hard to understand. But from what I gather.....cooling the bottle lowers the pressure. Warming it up increases the pressure (i.e. the gas expands). If you have a purge...and you have too much pressure, you can always just purge to lower the pressure in the bottle.

Quote:

also, on ur example, u said wot is wide open throttle, i kno that, but when u say wot, u mean slamming on the gas pedal and causing it to accelerate fast?

Wide open throttle means the pedal is on the floor and the throttle body is wide open. Take off your intake and look into your throttle boddy. When you accelerate....it opens up. The amount that it's open depends on the throttle position. WOT means just that.....its wide open...and this occurs when you floor the pedal. And yes....if you're at WOT you will accelerate faster than if you were at say 35% throttle. The RPM's that you're at when you floor it does have an effect too.

Quote:

also, if u are accelerating to 7000rpm would u get there quite quick considering the nitrous makes it go a lot faster? then u said u have to shift at like 7k, so the nitrous really is only running for a short few seconds. then once u shift theres no nitrous until u slam on the gas in the next gear which makes it continous from gear to gear or no?

Once again...if your set up is hooked up to spray at wide open throttle...technically when you're shifting gears you're not at wide open throttle (like if you're quick shifting....lifting your foot off the pedal briefly between shifts and then slamming it again once you're in gear) And yes....the n2o only sprays (if your kit is hooked up to WOT) at WOT...while you're in gear. There's no reason to spray otherwise. Yes...the n2o is continuous from gear to gear as long as it's activated and you're at WOT.

You'll notice your RPM's climb a little quicker than if you were to floor it when you're naturally aspirated. Just watch your RPM's.

Quote:

how long would u be able to do this, like from gears 2-4 or so? cuz if u go through all the gears its a good 10 seconds or 15. would that be safe on ur engine.

You can spray from 1st through 4th. 5th gear spray isn't really recommended. On a 50-75 shot....it will be take less than 15 seconds to go through all those gears. Take for example my 14.5 at the track. That's less than 15 seconds and I raced spraying in 1st. Plus...in between shifts...there was no n2o spraying into the motor because i quick shift...and therefore I'm not at WOT in between shifts. Most (if not all) Nitrous kit manufacturers do not recommend spraying in 5th and they do not recommend spraying for more than 15 consecutive seconds.

Quote:

im full of questions, sorry to ask them all just curious and considering buying it but not sure on many things. read up on all the posts in the forum and on the nx site. still doesn't answer all my questions or concerns.

If you're really not sure of how this works or what you're doing, then you might wanna hold off on getting nitrous. If you're not a good driver, I wouldn't recommend it either.....unless you get all the safety "fool" proof items there are out there to make sure you don't blow up and even still there's a chance of it happening.

I think your best bet is to find someone that HAS nitrous.....and maybe go for a ride w/them so you can observe and see how things are done (assuming this person is experienced a/nitrous) if you're still confused.

slicksivik

iTrader: (9)

what "fool" proof items are there? and i see u said something about a msd ignition or something else that controls when the nitrous sprays and at a certain rpm, can u explain how that works more and how much those run. thanx

SpdRcrChk

iTrader: (6)

Well the MSD Window Switch (not ignition) controls what RPM's your kit sprays between. They offer modules that you plug in that determine the ranges that it sprays (i.e. 3000 thru 6570 would require thee 3000 module and the 6570). What this would do....is when the n2o is activated, it will only spray between these set RPMs no matter what. And basically....it means that you don't have to worry much if you hit fuel cut because the window switch will have shut down the nitrous before 7k.

The WOT microswitch is KIND OF a safety measure. This only allows you to spray when you're at WOT. But....most kits are set up this way anyway.

The purge is kind of a safety measure if you have a bottle warmer.....it allows you to release pressure if you've managed to build it too much. It also allows you to clear the lines before spraying if there is n2o that's been sitting there too long. Most bottle warmers, however, come with a relay that will automatically shut off the warmer before it gets the pressure up to high. I've encountered problems with these relays before, so an in cabin n2o gauge can help you keep a close eye on that.

An a/f gauge (if you actually pay attention to it) can tell u if you're running lean....upon which you might wanna not spray!!!

There are some nitrous kits, like the VENOM kit (but it's a dry and not a wet kit) that will automatically shut down the nitrous FOR you if it reads that your a/f mixture is too lean (it hooks up to ur 02).

If you're really worried about your shifting and don't have a window switch...a shift light can help you remember when to shift.

These are just a few of things that can help you monitor your kit. But they still aren't a guarantee that something can go wrong. Solenoids can stop working, or get stuck open, electical connections can go bad...etc etc etc. Don't just use 7thgencivic.com as a resource...try and read as much as you can from other good sources like the manufacturer websites themselves. I believe NX and VENOM host their manuals online!

ShYbOy

so what are the basic mods to make it ready to install nitrous? and what websites or places are there to buy good prices on nitrous, zex, nos,...etc...

01WingsWestCivic

iTrader: (5)

wow, didnt think this thread would still be around... speedracerchick, holding it down rather nicely i would put an intake at least, that way you dont destroy your factory intake, but you can put it on a stock vehicle if you so desire, just be smart

SpdRcrChk

iTrader: (6)

Thanks 01WIngsWestCivic

Like 01 said....there really aren't any "basic" mods that you need for n2o. But......it would be nice to have an intake, header, exhaust, etc. etc. It would also be nice if you had an AFC so you can dyno tune the car.

Ebay is prolly you're best bet for the n2o kit.

xjoshmillerx

detonate....you meen blow the f#*k up?...I have been thinking about it for a while. But you don't know if your engine is going to "detonate" untill you suck the bottel a few times, right?

(great post, I learned a lot thanks)

thiscrackerntam

Detonate doesnt necessarily mean you've blown up or you're going to. Its just means some bad wear that is taking place. Yes, severe detonation can cause servere damage to an engine thats why its important to check your plug consistently and act accordingly.

botlbobjr

This is for those using the 75 shot

How are your cars running with it? Everythin still ok?

Also my father is going to install my kit if i buy it.
He has a hook up on NX kits.
Which kit# should i buy?

Thanks

thiscrackerntam

Our cars respond pretty well to nitrous. Most of my time sprayin has been with using the 75 jets. Everything still fine and still runnin strong with exception to the clutch. Mine slips spmetimes so I'm working on buying a new one now. Thats one thing u can pretty much count on replacing after a lil while.

C2i0v0i1C

iTrader: (2)

detonation means that the AF mixture inside the cylinder is combusting before it should be, which can lead to a blown engine. the occurance of detonation is not bad wear, it CAUSES bad wear and if it continues and nothing is done to correct the problem, then ull have a bigger problem. HIGHER OCTANE fuel can greatly reduce detonation, the higher the octane the more stable it is, the lower then well obviously its less stable. if u are adding anything to the combustion chamber i would just get new plugs anyways, to make things better, they are not really that $$$$$$ anyways

thiscrackerntam

Never said detonation was the same thing as bad wear by definition, but thanks for summing that up for those who are asking the questions.

01WingsWestCivic

iTrader: (5)

fyi... dont **** around and spray at low rpms. it has nasty consequences! lol

Ershall

iTrader: (4)

which would be? a quick redline?

thiscrackerntam

No less than 2k rpm's. However it also depends on if your're luggin the engine.

01WingsWestCivic

iTrader: (5)

meaning like, dont cruise at like 3k rpms in 3rd or 4th (where are cars are slugs) and start spraying, once that nitrous pools up in the manifold... thats all she wrote. after mine let go, i had to replace the manifold, and throttle body assembly.

MIAMIVTEC

01WINGSWEST & SPDRCR>> how much were your gauges? and how much did u pay for the zex? if u dont mind. did u install it your self? Do u recomend we have a shop install it?

Also, this might be a dumb question... but are there two switches 1) to spray and 2) to clean the lines (purge)? and if there are, are they included in the kit? thanks>

robo1040

iTrader: (5)

ok here is a question, what is the Zex 10 lb bottle rated at, i mean like how hot can it get in my truck before it will blow the saftey disk, and what is the max pressure, i tried to look on the zex website but i couldent find the specs on it. has anyone had a problem with heat?

Havok2k1

iTrader: (3)

Maybe 1500 psi?

Cocky

iTrader: (6)

okay, i have a 02 DX automatic, gonna be getting an EX HP Header, and Greddy Evo 2 exhaust, what's the highest shot i can safely run? all i need is the wet system, and new plugs.. or anything else?