Zef's EK "Weekend Warrior" Build Thread!
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Hey guys! Here to represent the 6th genners amongst all you 7th genners. Got some time off from class so figured I'd finally pile a thread together and bring you guys up to speed on what's been goin' on. As the title clearly states I'm looking for this car to both be a DD and a track car. There's a racetrack literally 20 minutes away from school and SCCA sanctioned autocross events are constantly going on at Hershey Park from April to October so I figured I kick this project into high gear.
This is what I came home to today; I feel like a kid at Christmas!
Some pics of pretty much what she looks like now, minus the CTR grill and Type R lip. She's getting a serious scrub-down tomorrow.. will upload fresh pics then ;]
Here's the C1 block I got for a really good deal. It's not quite bare. It came with the caps, girdle, CPS, thermostat housing etc. There's quite a bit of work to be done to get it to where it needs to be but I'm very hopeful. Looking to get it cleaned and powder-coated before I put it all together.
Rear Discs from a 99 Si
1'' MC, new rear wheel bearings, DC2 calipers, 40/40 prop valve, brake lines, e-brake cables, caliper bolts, etc etc.
Here's the EK4 tall wing I managed to snag. It's in really rough shape but it's the one wing that I actually really like so I figured it's definitely worth getting re-painted and fitted.
Thin Side Moldings!
DB8 Rear Seats.. quite a bit of sunfading. Still looking for an upholstery shop that can repair it, though I may just follow some of the dye-guides. My main concern is the red stitching.
It's been quite an undertaking so far but hopefully when I get it all together it'll be a monster. As you can see there's still quite a bit of body work to do. Getting the stock skirts and door trim painted, the wing re-painted and the front fender replaced. Also got the side markers + wiring harness from PWJDM.
At this point i'm snagging deals as I see them (which is why you see parts from a little bit of everything). The motor and the rest of the engine work is definitely getting done last. The interior, body work, suspension and brakes are all going to get done first.
Hope you guys tag along for the ride. Will update as often as I can. Also can't wait for electric130's ground kit to come in!
This is what I came home to today; I feel like a kid at Christmas!
Some pics of pretty much what she looks like now, minus the CTR grill and Type R lip. She's getting a serious scrub-down tomorrow.. will upload fresh pics then ;]
Here's the C1 block I got for a really good deal. It's not quite bare. It came with the caps, girdle, CPS, thermostat housing etc. There's quite a bit of work to be done to get it to where it needs to be but I'm very hopeful. Looking to get it cleaned and powder-coated before I put it all together.
Rear Discs from a 99 Si
1'' MC, new rear wheel bearings, DC2 calipers, 40/40 prop valve, brake lines, e-brake cables, caliper bolts, etc etc.
Here's the EK4 tall wing I managed to snag. It's in really rough shape but it's the one wing that I actually really like so I figured it's definitely worth getting re-painted and fitted.
Thin Side Moldings!
DB8 Rear Seats.. quite a bit of sunfading. Still looking for an upholstery shop that can repair it, though I may just follow some of the dye-guides. My main concern is the red stitching.
It's been quite an undertaking so far but hopefully when I get it all together it'll be a monster. As you can see there's still quite a bit of body work to do. Getting the stock skirts and door trim painted, the wing re-painted and the front fender replaced. Also got the side markers + wiring harness from PWJDM.
At this point i'm snagging deals as I see them (which is why you see parts from a little bit of everything). The motor and the rest of the engine work is definitely getting done last. The interior, body work, suspension and brakes are all going to get done first.
Hope you guys tag along for the ride. Will update as often as I can. Also can't wait for electric130's ground kit to come in!
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I am going to be following this thread pretty closely because you have the same goal in mind as myself. I wand my 99 SI to be a DD and a Track Car, so I will definitely be chipping in I am sure. The main difference is I will be building the B16A2 that's already in the car. Good luck on all the work.
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Update!
Changed the oil in the stock D. Tried out the PWJDM Oil Plug (I needed a new one anyway) and was actually surprised that it caught quite a bit of gunk.
Got my fog light covers back.. was a little disappointed at the quality but realized that most of it will be covered by the lights anyway.
When I got the new hood I also got a new liner. Unfortunately two of the clips won't snap in.. looking at just hot gluing them in.
Nice and clean!
Tonight I'm going to take apart the rear discs and get the trailing arms, hubs and calipers powder coated. Also need to buy a press to put in the new bearings.
Steel brake lines are on the way as well as hawk ceramics for the front and rear. Looking at new rotors for the rear. Debating between Brembo blanks and Honda blanks. Once everything for the brakes are done the next is the suspension.
Just a quick peek at what I'm going to be rocking for suspension:
Koni Yellow's, Ground Control Sleeves (350F/280R)
DC2 Front lower control arms with the PCI bronze bushing kit. (PCI doesn't make a kit for the EK so I gotta swap the arms)
94-99 Integra Front Sway Bar (same size as the current one, but need to swap since the end-links for the DC2 FLCA's are different)
Buddy Club Extended Ball Joints
Buddy Club Front/Rear Camber kits
Extended Ball Joints will correct the suspension geometry from lowering the car but restrict shock travel since it lowers the car an additional 0.75''. The GC adjustable sleeves will allow me to raise the car to bring it back to my desired ride height. Plus they're Eibach springs.. which are awesome. Looking to get the GC top hats, too.
Function 7 LCA's
Energy Suspension Bushings
Considering doing Spherical bushings for the trailing arms since it's such a critical part of the cars suspension.
Also still deciding on a rear sway bar size.
Will update again tomorrow.. it's gonna be a long night in the man cave
Hahaha, I actually abhor this state so I'd much rather represent the 6th gen community
Thanks for all the support guys! I promise I will not disappoint!!
Changed the oil in the stock D. Tried out the PWJDM Oil Plug (I needed a new one anyway) and was actually surprised that it caught quite a bit of gunk.
Got my fog light covers back.. was a little disappointed at the quality but realized that most of it will be covered by the lights anyway.
When I got the new hood I also got a new liner. Unfortunately two of the clips won't snap in.. looking at just hot gluing them in.
Nice and clean!
Tonight I'm going to take apart the rear discs and get the trailing arms, hubs and calipers powder coated. Also need to buy a press to put in the new bearings.
Steel brake lines are on the way as well as hawk ceramics for the front and rear. Looking at new rotors for the rear. Debating between Brembo blanks and Honda blanks. Once everything for the brakes are done the next is the suspension.
Just a quick peek at what I'm going to be rocking for suspension:
Koni Yellow's, Ground Control Sleeves (350F/280R)
DC2 Front lower control arms with the PCI bronze bushing kit. (PCI doesn't make a kit for the EK so I gotta swap the arms)
94-99 Integra Front Sway Bar (same size as the current one, but need to swap since the end-links for the DC2 FLCA's are different)
Buddy Club Extended Ball Joints
Buddy Club Front/Rear Camber kits
Extended Ball Joints will correct the suspension geometry from lowering the car but restrict shock travel since it lowers the car an additional 0.75''. The GC adjustable sleeves will allow me to raise the car to bring it back to my desired ride height. Plus they're Eibach springs.. which are awesome. Looking to get the GC top hats, too.
Function 7 LCA's
Energy Suspension Bushings
Considering doing Spherical bushings for the trailing arms since it's such a critical part of the cars suspension.
Also still deciding on a rear sway bar size.
Will update again tomorrow.. it's gonna be a long night in the man cave
Hahaha, I actually abhor this state so I'd much rather represent the 6th gen community
Thanks for all the support guys! I promise I will not disappoint!!
Last edited by Zeferint; 10-20-2011 at 05:03 PM.
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Just a quick peek at what I'm going to be rocking for suspension:
Koni Yellow's, Ground Control Sleeves (350F/280R)
DC2 Front lower control arms with the PCI bronze bushing kit. (PCI doesn't make a kit for the EK so I gotta swap the arms)
94-99 Integra Front Sway Bar (same size as the current one, but need to swap since the end-links for the DC2 FLCA's are different)
Buddy Club Extended Ball Joints
Buddy Club Front/Rear Camber kits
Extended Ball Joints will correct the suspension geometry from lowering the car but restrict shock travel since it lowers the car an additional 0.75''. The GC adjustable sleeves will allow me to raise the car to bring it back to my desired ride height. Plus they're Eibach springs.. which are awesome. Looking to get the GC top hats, too.
Function 7 LCA's
Energy Suspension Bushings
Considering doing Spherical bushings for the trailing arms since it's such a critical part of the cars suspension.
Also still deciding on a rear sway bar size.
1) Looking at your spring rates - 350F/280R, That's a little soft for track use.
The typical formula for a Spec Civic has the rear spring rates ~100lb/in greater than the front. This usually gives rates of 400-500lb/in front and 500lb/in+ in the rear. Given the 60/40 (approx) weight distribution for the Civic, that would put the rear frequencies at the upper end of the 2Hz range.
2) I would steer clear of the pillowballs and bronze bushings, until everything is dialed in. This stuff is for getting that extra 1/10th, realistically. Dial in your suspension first. Tires, Camber, Swaybars, Damping and Springs then add/subtract the goodies later. For a part time track/DD, you will need to clean and lubricate the bushings pretty frequently. Keep it plug and play for now, then add the bling (e.g. LCAs).
3) Same goes for the RCAs (extended ball joints). Jury is still out on the benefits. You'll be blowing through ball joints anyways, keep it stock and save some $.
4) Let the track and your car decide on swaybar size, both front and rear.
Good luck!
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Not to try to sway the conversation away from the car, but can someone explain in novice terms what the numbers mean in the spring rates? I'm hoping to do something like this in the summer with my em2, and start learning the basics for auto-slalom and so on, so I need to start getting an idea of what suspension mods I should be looking at.
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Congrats! Looking forward to seeing the progress. Couple of things to consider:
1) Looking at your spring rates - 350F/280R, That's a little soft for track use.
The typical formula for a Spec Civic has the rear spring rates ~100lb/in greater than the front. This usually gives rates of 400-500lb/in front and 500lb/in+ in the rear. Given the 60/40 (approx) weight distribution for the Civic, that would put the rear frequencies at the upper end of the 2Hz range.
2) I would steer clear of the pillowballs and bronze bushings, until everything is dialed in. This stuff is for getting that extra 1/10th, realistically. Dial in your suspension first. Tires, Camber, Swaybars, Damping and Springs then add/subtract the goodies later. For a part time track/DD, you will need to clean and lubricate the bushings pretty frequently. Keep it plug and play for now, then add the bling (e.g. LCAs).
3) Same goes for the RCAs (extended ball joints). Jury is still out on the benefits. You'll be blowing through ball joints anyways, keep it stock and save some $.
4) Let the track and your car decide on swaybar size, both front and rear.
Good luck!
1) Looking at your spring rates - 350F/280R, That's a little soft for track use.
The typical formula for a Spec Civic has the rear spring rates ~100lb/in greater than the front. This usually gives rates of 400-500lb/in front and 500lb/in+ in the rear. Given the 60/40 (approx) weight distribution for the Civic, that would put the rear frequencies at the upper end of the 2Hz range.
2) I would steer clear of the pillowballs and bronze bushings, until everything is dialed in. This stuff is for getting that extra 1/10th, realistically. Dial in your suspension first. Tires, Camber, Swaybars, Damping and Springs then add/subtract the goodies later. For a part time track/DD, you will need to clean and lubricate the bushings pretty frequently. Keep it plug and play for now, then add the bling (e.g. LCAs).
3) Same goes for the RCAs (extended ball joints). Jury is still out on the benefits. You'll be blowing through ball joints anyways, keep it stock and save some $.
4) Let the track and your car decide on swaybar size, both front and rear.
Good luck!
Quick update on disassembling the trailing arms; the huge bolt behind the bearing refuses to come loose.. currently soaking in PB blaster haha.
Also, how stiff can I go on the Koni's without worrying about them blowing?
Not to try to sway the conversation away from the car, but can someone explain in novice terms what the numbers mean in the spring rates? I'm hoping to do something like this in the summer with my em2, and start learning the basics for auto-slalom and so on, so I need to start getting an idea of what suspension mods I should be looking at.
Last edited by Zeferint; 10-20-2011 at 06:35 PM.
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great! don't forget to upload whatever you had done so far too
Max said all, so I won't go in there :P
PS: after installing the wing, remove the internal mirror - it will be useless :P and you will be placed in SM just for that
Max said all, so I won't go in there :P
PS: after installing the wing, remove the internal mirror - it will be useless :P and you will be placed in SM just for that
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And really? SM for a wing? Ah well.. I'll be in SM after I'm done with the engine bay anywho haha.
But what do you think about the Koni's? How stiff can I go? Or should I just have them revalved anyway?
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revalves - you will need to decide springs first, they need to be revalved for the springs, not the other way :P
The wing placing you in SM was a joke!!! don't believe in that
The wing placing you in SM was a joke!!! don't believe in that
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And it's too bad.. ricers should have their own autox class haha
Disassembled most of the trailing arms to find out I dont have the proper tools to take off the spindle... D'oh! It's dad's b-day tomorrow so project is on hold for now. Looks like I'm taking most of this stuff with me to college haha. Would be a lot more fun than writing papers
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If you're willing to step-up to coilovers in the Flex price range, I'd suggest taking a hard look at AMR as well. The quality of that brand is absolutely unreal and they have a lifetime warranty, they're made in an independent shop in Seattle where all the other big brands are made overseas. Even Tein is being manufactured in Taiwan now
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If you're willing to step-up to coilovers in the Flex price range, I'd suggest taking a hard look at AMR as well. The quality of that brand is absolutely unreal and they have a lifetime warranty, they're made in an independent shop in Seattle where all the other big brands are made overseas. Even Tein is being manufactured in Taiwan now
Edit: Just checked their website out and all I can say is wow. +1 for that recommendation...after the brakes are done I am totally getting my hands on these! I'm legit excited to spend $1500 haha.
Last edited by Zeferint; 10-21-2011 at 11:56 PM.
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My k20 block is sitting here, I can't decide whether I want to go n/a or f/i either. I'm leaning towards forced induction with a 12.5:1 CR, because that would be ideal for both nitrous and a supercharger, so I can start with the nitrous and if I feel I need more power then it'll be time to step with a rotrex.
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If you're willing to step-up to coilovers in the Flex price range, I'd suggest taking a hard look at AMR as well. The quality of that brand is absolutely unreal and they have a lifetime warranty, they're made in an independent shop in Seattle where all the other big brands are made overseas. Even Tein is being manufactured in Taiwan now
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^^^ http://www.amrengineering.com/proddetail.html?veid=49
I played with the idea of nitrous...there really aren't any shops in my area that specialize in it and wouldn't have any place to fill up.
I played with the idea of nitrous...there really aren't any shops in my area that specialize in it and wouldn't have any place to fill up.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXZP4P6X7Q4
I like this video, because rally really tests suspensions more than any other type of racing and they handle the job well.
On a side note, **** autox, I'm going to start rallyx when my build is complete.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZXgN...eature=related
Last edited by MindBomber; 10-22-2011 at 10:20 AM.
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^^ Awesome dude.. Mindbomber is certainly the oracle for suspension knowledge
Brakes are fully disassembled, I got the DC2 calipers for the rear. Hawk ceramics and brake lines came in. Unfortunately I go back to college today so it won't go in until I come back for Thanksgiving. Once the brakes are done, it's going to be time to save for some AMR coilovers, energy suspension bushings and a set of Advan RG II's.
As far as power is concerned, I decided that I am going to go the JRSC supercharger route, and before all the turbo fans crucify me there's a number of reasons factoring my decision: it's inexpensive, lots of bottom end (which I want for autocross and track days), minimal engine modifications, better powerband, and lets be honest...everyone and their grandmother has a turbo. Plus, with the LHT intercooler setup, it will perfectly fit within the power range that I'm looking for (260-280whp).
Brakes are fully disassembled, I got the DC2 calipers for the rear. Hawk ceramics and brake lines came in. Unfortunately I go back to college today so it won't go in until I come back for Thanksgiving. Once the brakes are done, it's going to be time to save for some AMR coilovers, energy suspension bushings and a set of Advan RG II's.
As far as power is concerned, I decided that I am going to go the JRSC supercharger route, and before all the turbo fans crucify me there's a number of reasons factoring my decision: it's inexpensive, lots of bottom end (which I want for autocross and track days), minimal engine modifications, better powerband, and lets be honest...everyone and their grandmother has a turbo. Plus, with the LHT intercooler setup, it will perfectly fit within the power range that I'm looking for (260-280whp).
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260-280whp supercharged is perfect for autocross, add a small shot of nitrous for the straight aways and you'll have more than enough power.
I'm good with suspensions, but not the best. Sandro is a Jedi master at suspensions, I'm just a Jedi.
I'm good with suspensions, but not the best. Sandro is a Jedi master at suspensions, I'm just a Jedi.
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Jedi master... You calling me tiny, green, and speaking gibberish that very few understands?
"The force with you be" or similar :P
"The force with you be" or similar :P
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Glad you took it easy on me. I thought I was gonna get the Jar-Jar label.
JICs are now being made in the USA. A definate step up from Taiwan. Yen is too strong for it's own good (or the dollar is too weak). Almost went this route over the Flex. Was going to pick up a FLT-A2, but couldn't pass up the deal.
My wishlist for coilovers would be Ohlins or J's.
http://www.speedstar-racing.com/stor...21ff427dc72149
http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/Me...&Store_Code=EM
I'd consider a JIC FLT-A1, for the track too.
JICs are now being made in the USA. A definate step up from Taiwan. Yen is too strong for it's own good (or the dollar is too weak). Almost went this route over the Flex. Was going to pick up a FLT-A2, but couldn't pass up the deal.
My wishlist for coilovers would be Ohlins or J's.
http://www.speedstar-racing.com/stor...21ff427dc72149
http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/Me...&Store_Code=EM
I'd consider a JIC FLT-A1, for the track too.
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I was tempted to name this one Sdaidoji
also added
Last edited by MindBomber; 10-24-2011 at 09:36 PM.