mac25 build
#92
Dr Krieger of Modification
Thread Starter
Re: mac25 build
I checked the
-valves/seals/retainers/springs (all look good)
-pulled the header to see if I ported through an oil gallery (looked good, thank goodness).
-I'll check plugs soon
-and the pcv system
-I'm not sure because the sound is deeper now but it may be reving at a higher rate now with the port job; this may be leading to over an over pressured crankcase and oil being pushed past the valve seals or up through the pcv into the intake.
At this point I'm just gina say F it and top her up when needed, I'm also thinking of trying
5w30
then 5w40
-valves/seals/retainers/springs (all look good)
-pulled the header to see if I ported through an oil gallery (looked good, thank goodness).
-I'll check plugs soon
-and the pcv system
-I'm not sure because the sound is deeper now but it may be reving at a higher rate now with the port job; this may be leading to over an over pressured crankcase and oil being pushed past the valve seals or up through the pcv into the intake.
At this point I'm just gina say F it and top her up when needed, I'm also thinking of trying
5w30
then 5w40
#94
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LOL, Josh!
Cam,
like mentioned in another thread, 5-30 or 5-40 could cause some issues with low VTEC pressure
Cam,
like mentioned in another thread, 5-30 or 5-40 could cause some issues with low VTEC pressure
#95
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#99
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#100
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now, Josh, your replies remind me of the old "suck, blow, bang" articles from the Sport Compact Car magazine
huh, that article title sounds wrong....
huh, that article title sounds wrong....
#103
Dr Krieger of Modification
Thread Starter
Re: mac25 build
2018 update...
Well long story short a fdew months ago my timing belt snapped, due to the water pump leaking on the belt, which was my fault because I left the pump with 3 put of 4 bolts, since one snapped.
Anyway, head is back off, thank goodness everything looks fine, probably because I was running low compression pistons which didn't smash the valves.
I just put the pistons back in, and found out why it was burning so much, some how two of the pistons had rings cloaked at the wrist pins. I also replaced the front main seal, the water pump again, this time OEM, the belt, oem and tensioner oem.
In fun news I'm also designing an intake manifold for boost, and j30 throttle body application.
Well long story short a fdew months ago my timing belt snapped, due to the water pump leaking on the belt, which was my fault because I left the pump with 3 put of 4 bolts, since one snapped.
Anyway, head is back off, thank goodness everything looks fine, probably because I was running low compression pistons which didn't smash the valves.
I just put the pistons back in, and found out why it was burning so much, some how two of the pistons had rings cloaked at the wrist pins. I also replaced the front main seal, the water pump again, this time OEM, the belt, oem and tensioner oem.
In fun news I'm also designing an intake manifold for boost, and j30 throttle body application.
#104
Dr Krieger of Modification
Thread Starter
Re: mac25 build
PS: The metal cut set, the shop messed up on and scaled too large.
The cardboard set was cut after and scaled to the correct size but a few holes were off by 1/16", which was my fault.
Hopefully with the final version everything will work out.
The cardboard set was cut after and scaled to the correct size but a few holes were off by 1/16", which was my fault.
Hopefully with the final version everything will work out.
#105
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woah, so it was the rings...
#107
Dr Krieger of Modification
Thread Starter
Re: mac25 build
...well after like three months the engine is rebuilt again... this time I clocked my pistons right (I hope) and removed/replaced the broken water pump bolt which lead to the timing belt braking.
As you can also see I built my own intake manifold ended up costing me $1100, mostly tool cost like welding gear, saws and clamps; as well as the water cutting fee to cut the plates I designed and 3d modeled. I tried to weld the final piece on my own but ended up warping the hell out of it and it looked like ****, so for the final version I spot welded it together and payed a shop to weld/seal it up.
Looks friggen epic IMO!
.................
At the moment I just started her today for the first time with this manifold. I have a crazy high idle surge from 1100 to 3000 up and down rhythmically , pretty fast. With the IACV unplugged (Idle air control valve) it will idle with a fast lope at 1000rpm. So naturally I thought it was a faulty IACV from the j30 throttle body...
But I unplugged the j30 IACV and then plugged in my stock d17 IACV (not installed into the j30 TB, just in the open because I wanted to see if it was moving open and closed) and the idle still surges but the D17 IACV does not actuate and since it is not connected to the j30 tb on the vehicle it can not cause the surging.
The only two things I have connected that could dump more air into the system are the IACV and supper noob question here, but the electric component that comes from the fire wall to the fuel rail then into a cylinder, then into an electrical control valve and finally to the intake manifold. What is that thing? I am having problems trying to find a diagram of the way it is installed stock and what it is called, in order to research the issue.
#108
Dr Krieger of Modification
Thread Starter
Re: mac25 build
Haha figured it out. It was actually a massive vacuum leak because there was a vacuum port left open on the underside of the j30 TB that I forgot about because I ran all of my stock vacuum lines to the manifold. Took me like 45 minutes to find it as I slowly puffed a cigar and blew it into the manifold.
#111
Dr Krieger of Modification
Thread Starter
Re: mac25 build
Intercooler is in, j30 throttle body now working with custom intake manifold, gauge cluster installed, air fuel and boost gauges and sensors installed (well I still need to wire the third party rsx-s air fuel sensor, that's why that wire is hanging out), rsx-s fuel pump, oil catch can, remote exhaust cutout installed, because rice =D.
Still need to install
-injectors
-plugs
-SC mount
-sc14 supercharger
-supercharger oil cooler
-aem FIC (...stupid emenage is in the trash now)
Also, as you can see I smashed the front end, trying to park the car on a farm, at a house party... lol. One day she'll look pretty, but boost first.
Currant mod list 2019:
Suspension:
energy bushings
raceland coils
dc camber kit
progress sway bar
custom 2 inch spacers all round
new mounts
dc strut bar
front sway delete
fenders cut 4-5" all round, lowerd 3-4" all round
transmision:
lsd
6 puck unsprung cletch
8.5 pound flywheel
rebuilt
aluminum shift linkage bushings
aluminum shifter base bushings
Engine:
crower stage 1 cam
1/4" radius port and polished head
custom intake manifold
j30 throttle body
k1 rods
wiseco pistons 8.8:1
aem cam gear
new bearings and seals
new timing belt/waterpump OEM honda
Arp head studs
Engine Managment:
AEM FIC-6
Boomslang harness
AEM UEGO 30-0300 wideband air fuel sensor
Cooling:
Yonaka 3 core radiator
Yonaka inter cooler and piping
Fuel:
rsx-s pump
Emissions:
K&n intake
DC racing header
2.25" downpipe
Megnaflow 2.25" high flow cat
megnaflow 2.25" cat. back
egr block plate
remote cutout
Gauges:
Blox racing cluster
AEM UEGO A/F gauge
Ebay special boost gauge
sound:
Sony deck
0 gauge wiring
1000 watt amp
500 watt 12" sub
Misc:
Oil catch can
cruise control delete
interior delete
AC delete
rims
head lamps
Newer civic steering wheel
Still need to install
-injectors
-plugs
-SC mount
-sc14 supercharger
-supercharger oil cooler
-aem FIC (...stupid emenage is in the trash now)
Also, as you can see I smashed the front end, trying to park the car on a farm, at a house party... lol. One day she'll look pretty, but boost first.
Currant mod list 2019:
Suspension:
energy bushings
raceland coils
dc camber kit
progress sway bar
custom 2 inch spacers all round
new mounts
dc strut bar
front sway delete
fenders cut 4-5" all round, lowerd 3-4" all round
transmision:
lsd
6 puck unsprung cletch
8.5 pound flywheel
rebuilt
aluminum shift linkage bushings
aluminum shifter base bushings
Engine:
crower stage 1 cam
1/4" radius port and polished head
custom intake manifold
j30 throttle body
k1 rods
wiseco pistons 8.8:1
aem cam gear
new bearings and seals
new timing belt/waterpump OEM honda
Arp head studs
Engine Managment:
AEM FIC-6
Boomslang harness
AEM UEGO 30-0300 wideband air fuel sensor
Cooling:
Yonaka 3 core radiator
Yonaka inter cooler and piping
Fuel:
rsx-s pump
Emissions:
K&n intake
DC racing header
2.25" downpipe
Megnaflow 2.25" high flow cat
megnaflow 2.25" cat. back
egr block plate
remote cutout
Gauges:
Blox racing cluster
AEM UEGO A/F gauge
Ebay special boost gauge
sound:
Sony deck
0 gauge wiring
1000 watt amp
500 watt 12" sub
Misc:
Oil catch can
cruise control delete
interior delete
AC delete
rims
head lamps
Newer civic steering wheel
Last edited by mac25; 04-25-2019 at 02:45 PM.
#112
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weeeh! some progress! :P
#114
Dr Krieger of Modification
Thread Starter
Re: mac25 build
...well I now know why people buy, pre built, third party wideband Air Fuel sensors. Lol.
Since my car's a 2002 with narrow band A/F, I tried to save money by buying an rsx wide band, and gauge, then wire it separately and placing it in it's own exhaust bung. (So stock AF is still active).
I didn't know that the ecu needs to monitor the heator circuit and fluctuate its voltage to maintain a steady temperature.
.........
Long story short, after a month trying to pinout everything and clone the ecu signals, I ended up buying an AEM 30-0300 wideband (which has a built in control unit).
Since my car's a 2002 with narrow band A/F, I tried to save money by buying an rsx wide band, and gauge, then wire it separately and placing it in it's own exhaust bung. (So stock AF is still active).
I didn't know that the ecu needs to monitor the heator circuit and fluctuate its voltage to maintain a steady temperature.
.........
Long story short, after a month trying to pinout everything and clone the ecu signals, I ended up buying an AEM 30-0300 wideband (which has a built in control unit).
#117
Dr Krieger of Modification
Thread Starter
Re: mac25 build
AEM FIC-6, with Boomslang harness and AEM UEGO 30-0300 wideband, now installed!
...now to learn about street tuning 😀.
I want to get a handle on tuning before I install the injectors, plugs and charger.
......
Still need to
-fab SC mount
-install SC
-install injectors
-install plugs
-street tune fuel map
-dyno tune
😁
...now to learn about street tuning 😀.
I want to get a handle on tuning before I install the injectors, plugs and charger.
......
Still need to
-fab SC mount
-install SC
-install injectors
-install plugs
-street tune fuel map
-dyno tune
😁
#118
Dr Krieger of Modification
Thread Starter
Re: mac25 build
...omg! Friggen two weeks later, finally understand how to set up the FIC on board MAP sensor.
All the posts I saw for hondas were using the OEM MAP (or an upgraded MAP in OEM position), run as a MAF using voltage mapping.
Tried scaling the FIC MAP output to the OEM MAP, in 2bar and 3Bar... turns out the OEM MAP is 1.7bar. Hahaha, so I had to manually scale the voltages per psiA in between 1bar and 2bar.
All the posts I saw for hondas were using the OEM MAP (or an upgraded MAP in OEM position), run as a MAF using voltage mapping.
Tried scaling the FIC MAP output to the OEM MAP, in 2bar and 3Bar... turns out the OEM MAP is 1.7bar. Hahaha, so I had to manually scale the voltages per psiA in between 1bar and 2bar.
#120
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computers fasten our lives. NOT!
LOL!
LOL!