speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

You know it Richard!

tuningmycivic

iTrader: (11)

wtf is a sorostitute?? co-ed??

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

It simply has to be warped man. There is no way I should constantly push coolant when I dog the car, this is after 3 new head gaskets, plus I ran a a leakdown test on it.

Cyl #1 - 8% loss
Cyl #2 - 25% loss
Cyl #3 - 20% loss
Cyl #4 - 8% loss

That pretty much confirms it right there. The car's coolant temps are fairly erratic as well. I can be running at 196 F, turn on the heater and I jump to 205 F. I turn off the heater and I'm down to 187 F and then it climbs back to 196-199. After ******* on it, the coolant in my rezzie bubbles like an aquarium as well. Definitely pushing exhaust gas into the water jackets of the head.

She simply has to be warped. And it happened when it overheated this summer to the point where the car would not start. It even burned up a coil pack when it happened.

HonCiv02

man foos i give you mad props for not once seriously considering giving up, i am sure a lot of other guys out there would have thrown in the towel, but you, NO WAY! i still cant wait to see this thing run when you get everything taken care of - i know it is going to be epic.

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Oh, I have seriously considered giving up already. Problem is that I'm a stubborn bastard when it comes to problems and I not really known for giving up on stuff. I think if I didn't have this extra head sitting here, I would be less likely to be so optimistic about the problems I'm encountering.

I just hope that I don't have a leak in the the rings of #2 or #3.

greeen01civic4d

iTrader: (7)

have u done compression tests?? id like to see what kind of compression ur running at idle, if u did have a leak at the rings, that would surely tell u

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Buh bye.

greeen01civic4d

iTrader: (7)

sadly, u probably dont have access to the equipment to do it, did u use a compression gauge, ie just hooked up to each cylinder? because u can have it tested electronically as well, but usuaully honda is are the only ones who can do it, but if ur registering that much compression loss ur head is probably toast anyway, do u lose any coolant? or just push back into the res? and as far as ur rings being worn, or having a cylinder problem, If compression is low in one or more cylinders, you can isolate the problem to the valves or rings by squirting a little 30 weight motor oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and repeating the compression test. The oil temporarily seals the rings. If the readings are higher the second time around, it means the rings and/or cylinder is worn. No change in the compression readings tells you the cylinder has a bad valve

love the brakes btw, when did brembo start making drilled and slotted for our cars? this is the first ive seen of it! im excited to see how it goes tho, i love the brembo's on the wife's car, stop really well for oem replacements, but for the pads, ive never heard of pbr, how well do they stop? i use hawk ceramic oin both of mine, and love em, but they are a little dusty, how much brake dust do u get, and are those ceramic

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

did u use a compression gauge, ie just hooked up to each cylinder?

Yeah, gauge hooked up to each cylinder individually, rotate to TDC, pressurize to 100psi, determine loss.

do u lose any coolant? or just push back into the res?

Nope, just pushes it back into the res.

when did brembo start making drilled and slotted for our cars?

Brembo doesn't make them D/S from the factory. Folks buy the blanks and then typically do that stuff to the rotors themselves the same way they add the lug holes for the different vehicles.

but for the pads, ive never heard of pbr, how well do they stop?

PBR and Axxis are the same manufacturer. They stop really well IMO. I haven't done any actual measured braking tests but they grip better than the knock-off set I had on there.

how much brake dust do u get, and are those ceramic

Can't really tell yet since I just put them on. They are a semi-metallic pad, vice ceramic.

The break-in procedure was a little involved. It involved some 60-40mph braking to warm things up, then some mulitple (7-8), consecutive 60-10mph hard stops (cram pedal to floor) to properly bed the pads in and take the zinc coating off the stopping surface. There were clouds of smoke billowing out from both wheel wells by the 5th go-round, it was awesome. Even though they were smoking like crazy, no brake fade. So yeah, I'm happy with them.

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

these are just soem things you might want to consider next time u get new rotors...

and no offense too u or ur car...

you're actually downgrading ur brakes...

and they're not "offical" brembos. they are brembo blanks drill/slotted by a 3rd party...

brembo doesnt make drilled+slotted for our cars....or any cars with such a small rotor...


u lose about 40% surface area with slotted and drilled...and that is a DRAMATIC lost in surface area....hence ur braking potential will significally go down.

most people who have slotted or drill have GIGANITC rotors..and calipers..

plus, if u get it slotted/drill with a 3rd party, there is a good chance that they will crack because it was slotted/drilled after the rotor was made. hence it becomes more brittle than origionally.


brembo drills/slots it when the rotor is being made and therefore it does not become brittle if you would have drilled/slotted them after they cooled down.

btw, a member here was selling his AEM BBK (big brake kit) for bout 200...

why didnt u get those? they would have been a significant upgrade

Alpha 5

iTrader: (8)

AIM BBK thread
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...hlight=AEM+BBK

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

I didn't get the BBK because I don't want to mess with figuring out a new proportioning valve to compensate for the larger rotor and number of pistons. There was a good article posted on the site a while ago about how BBKs are not a good idea because they seriously change the bias. Unless you account for that increase in bias to the front wheels with a new proportioning valve and somehow reprogramming your ABS to factor in the new size and effect it has on stopping, then BBKs are actually worse than my D/S Brembos.

I know they've been D/S'd by the 3rd party company I bought them from, I said that in my response to Adam.

I've read up and down about the myths, drawbacks, and benefits of drilled, slotted, D/S, and smooth rotors. I appreciate the advice, but the only upgrade that you can really do is smooth rotors and better pads. Like I said, I ran my other D/S el cheapo rotors for 3 years with no problems. My car will see the track maybe once per month. With those factors, I'll take the looks over the potential risk of cracking which hasn't happened to me yet.

Alpha 5

iTrader: (8)

Keep us infromed about the breaks. I was thinking about getting the AEM BBK. Can you link me to the article you were reading about the abs and proportioning valve? That would be a good read.

greeen01civic4d

iTrader: (7)

i second that, a good read indeed, ill take a look around, if i dont find, u should post it up, thanks Clint

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Here's the quote from the thread (thank dog I organize my subscriptions).

jrock

iTrader: (1)

I was looking into getting the bbk too.....scrap that idea....I think I will go with some powerslots

greeen01civic4d

iTrader: (7)

yea, after the read, i dont think that 1200 bucks or more just isnt worth it, not after brake tune and all, it just wouldnt be worth it on a street car, especially when braking in front of someone who has tiny stockers, ud just end up getting rear ended all the time, ive considered it over and over, but i just cant justify it... excellent read Clint, thanks

sql_civic

iTrader: (10)

Clint, those brakes look fine. Good luck with them.

DaRk_MauL

iTrader: (7)

well maybe you have to take a look at the other side. what if someone with
better brakes is riding in front of you , well i think you'll be the one doing the
rear ending with the tiny stockers.

here is belgium the rule is that you need to be able to stop for every car that
is in front of you. well you can do that with leaving enouph space but you
never know what will happen right.

greeen01civic4d

iTrader: (7)

also a very good point.... damn u for playing devils advocate

DaRk_MauL

iTrader: (7)

HEHE glad i made that point ...
peace.

Alpha 5

iTrader: (8)

I don't think that either one of you read all of the info that Foos posted.

If you did you would have come to the realization that in an emergency situation, when the ABS is activated and the vehicle is equipped with a BBK, you will actually STOP SLOWER. There for increasing your stopping distance.

You will have to tune the brake system for the increased stopping ability of the vehicle.

skipbarber

iTrader: (34)

im so lost, i have no idea whats going on. clint, you think you have a warped head? didnt you straight edge everything before popping in new HG's? PBR PADS FTMFW! I think ive permanently switched to the Axxiss ultimates.

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Yeah Edwin. I can't think of any other reason of why I have gone through three head gaskets, and still push exhaust gas into my water jacket, causing the rezzie to fill up. I straight-edged, but really, how accurate is that? Obviously only enough for NA and not boost. It's a pain in the *** at this point since it throws everything off. Add to that my flaky alternator and I can't maintain a steady AFR at idle for ****.

She's great under boost, but I think I may need to switch to Iridium plugs as well. I'm running NGK BKR7Es which are a copper plug. They're a step colder, but still copper and I think some of my idle issues may be due to them. I don't know. My idle was rock solid with the RSX-S injectors, but not since I switched to the SRT-4s. Honestly as long as I get it to pass emissions, I give a rat's *** if the idle is flaky.

Yeah, love the new brakes. Much firmer on the stops.

Did you get your spun bearing sorted out yet?

So at this point I'm looking at another $400 - around $40 for new plugs, $60 for a gasket set, and then $260 for the HO alternator. Cars are fun!

DaRk_MauL

iTrader: (7)

well the post I replied to its says ''BETTER BRAKES'' it doesnt say BBK.
and about the rear ending that it also can be the other way around.

skipbarber

iTrader: (34)

my "new" motor is getting hot tanked today because it has a nice, thick, chunky layer of salt on it, but the guts are flawless (donor car had 16k on the clock) so, as far as i can tell, so far, so good. while im at it im going to check all the bearing clearances and if need be, drop some new rings in. Im also waiting on ARP rod bolts which i decided very last minute to buy since they are a fairly common fail point for boosted honda's. Im off from school most of next week for thanksgiving, so Im hoping to get it running during that time. and your alternator problem...been there, done that. Not only did mine die, it died on a sunday, and no one stocked it, so I ended up getting raped ($2XX?) by the local dealer which does NOT have wholesale pricing but they did give me a core credit. then i come on here and see people selling used ones for like $35 wtf is that all about?

As far as your idle problem is concerned, all i know is that piggy backs, from what ive observed, dont like running BIG injectors, they can usually handle a step up or two, but anything beyond that, and you get problems. particularly when you try using peak hold injectors on a saturated system or vice versa, I see it at school all the time. go HONDATA, I KNOW YOU WANT TO... don't give up man, ive had to live without a car for two weeks and bumming rides in exchange for brake jobs and ****, it sucks, but I can't wait to get my car running again. You need to hurry up and move state side so you can have local moral support and helping hands.

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Naw - not giving up at all. I drive the **** out of the car everyday so I'm good as long as something catastrophic doesn't happen. Plus I disconnect my MBC and am just running 6.5psi off the wastegate to be safe. I'll be going Hondata for my next big expensive mod.

Luckily my alternator hasn't died yet, it's limping along right now with it's erratic voltage.

I just need to sell some crap is the bottom line. I'm tired of spending operating money on repairs. I've got about $600 worth of stereo equipment sitting in boxes behind me that I want to put in the car, but at the end of the day, is it worth it? I'm starting to think not. I may throw it up on Ebay and be done with it. I don't need more than I have already.

Or I may just say **** on it and buy everything I need and keep the stereo stuff too. We'll see. Time to take a hard look at my toys and see what I really need to hang on to. And sacrifice what I don't to the Honda gods.

And yeah, I seriously need to get back stateside. 11 months and counting.

rednwhite04

iTrader: (3)

I spell stop like this, W-I-L-W-O-O-D. haha. It's nice to be able to stop on **** hairs isn't it?

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Yeah. I usually stop on them when I'm eating and have to pick one out of my teeth.

Rufus

iTrader: (17)

el oh el