speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Edit, look in previous post.

civicfan1203

You can do it!!!

MarchMadnessisM

so ive spent the past couple of days reading this post to get all the way here to page 37 and i must say damn foos u have way more patience than i would haha good job gettin it running but it looks like you still have a ways to go to get it on the road, good luck with everything tho, god knows i dnt have that kind of patience, which is why im willing to give it to a shop n say do it right and just pay for it, not to mention i really dont know enough to do it all myself, im going to be doing simple stuff like CAI, Exhaust, and LED Kit on my own, but when i eventully get a turbo my car will be in the shop haha but good job man i love the vids and im glad u made it through the whole video w.o cursing i kno it must be hard

Alpha 5

iTrader: (8)

A hole video with no cursing or objects falling or any excitement. The last video was kinda boring. But it was for data logging purposes so it was functional. Good build, good work and good luck with getting it on the road soon.

MarchMadnessisM

yea i started laughing out loud in my architecture class when i saw the hood fall n i swear all 200 ppl jus stared at me but it was all good

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Buh bye.

TransformedBG

iTrader: (6)

Oh and get out that monkey suit! LOL

burke420

iTrader: (4)

still closer and closer my friend.. keep it going!

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Thanks fellas! BG, that **** is hilarious!!!

WilmncChris

iTrader: (1)

email me tomorrow..sorry its been busy at the shop as you can tell when i am eating lunch at 4pm

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

I'm just jealous your *** was in the drive-thru at Taco Bell when I called you!! I have to drive 2 hours to get my chalupa on!

Buds302

iTrader: (2)

that last vid makes it sound like you got a monster cam in there!

try un plugging the GM sensor and just run the stock one and see what it does. the injector tick is gonna stay there. mins do it. and the SRT4 ones were louder.

drew22mader

iTrader: (9)

Speedfoos, every time i'm talking to chris he is in the drive thru too hahah, what a coincidence.

As for my car, my car will be at BnT Performance (Chris' shop) next week getting the rest of everything done to it and some added things and getting dyno'd and tuned.

DsevenEm2

iTrader: (6)

sounds good drew22mader... is ur thread still alive?

thanks for explaining that foos about the datalog and what not. i think this forum has to go down as one of the greatest.. it should be stickied sometime in the future when its all said n done.. this is a great source of information right here.. liek u said this is what a forum is all about.

hey buds, whats the gm sensor...?

sorry if its thread jacking but some of these things i duno.. and i dont wana start a thread asking what every little thing is. thanks.

drew22mader

iTrader: (9)

Yea my thread is still alive, i just haven't posted any updates or anything cause the car is just sitting in the garage for the past 3 weeks lol, no big deal, just waiting to trailer the car down, then i'll have dyno #'s and stuff to show for soon.

greeen01civic4d

iTrader: (7)

drew, was it u that was on unique whips??

drew22mader

iTrader: (9)

Yea it was me

MarchMadnessisM

yea i agree this is what forums are all about this is great stuff n this better be put on DIY because this stuff is gold man but good luck with the trouble shooting

greeen01civic4d

iTrader: (7)

how was that btw

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

The GM sensor is an aftermarket 3 BAR MAP sensor (made by GM) that you run to the PCS (or whichever EMS) instead of using the stock MAP sensor. They both stay plugged into the vac system - stock MAP hole is a pain to plug - but you have to disconnect the clip for the stock sensor (I realize this now).

Most EMS's will take the signal from a 3 BAR MAP, use that to determine where the engine needs to be on the AFR tables, and continue sending stock MAP readings to the ECU so it thinks everything is happy and stock. The stock MAP sensor pukes on boost so you either need to bypass it or replace it.

DIY, boy, ummm, I guess I could condense this at a later date into a DIY, but let me get this thing running right first.

I'm going to grab a cup of coffee and then head out to the garage for today's festivities!

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Buh bye.

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Buh bye.

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Under dash aftermarket gauge wiring looks good. Time to pull the center console and gauge cluster to make sure everything is good there.

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Does anyone have a listing of the D17A2 ECU pinouts?? Andyman used to but he pulled all of his DIYs back in April. Muchos appreciation to anyone who finds an accurate one. I'm searching my *** off right now to try and find one.

DaRk_MauL

iTrader: (7)

here ya go.

Connector A (31 Pins)
1-blk/wht-Primary O2 sensor heater control
2-yel/blk-Power Source
3-yel/blk-Power source
4-blk-Power ground
5-blk-Power ground
6-wht-Primary O2 sensor
7-blu-Crankshaft position
8-yel-Sensor return volt
9-red/blu-Knock sensor
10-grn/yel-Sensor ground
11-grn/wht-Sensor ground
12-blk/red-Idle air control valve
13-wht/blk-EGR Valve position VTEC ONLY
14-blk/wht-Secondary O2 sensor heater control
15-red/blk-Throttle position sensor
18-wht/grn-Vehicle speed sensor
19-grn/red-MAP Sensor
20-yel/blu-Sensor Voltage Supply
21-yel/red-Sensor Voltage Supply
23-brn/yel-Logic ground
24-brn/yel-logic ground
25-wht/red-Secondary O2 Sensor
26-grn-Top dead center sensor
27-brn-Igniton coil 4
28-wht/blu-coil 3
29-blu/red-coil 2
30-yel/grn-coil 1

Connector B (24 Pins)
2-yel-Fuel injector 4
3-blu-Injector 3
4-red-Injector 2
5-brn-Injector 1
6-grn-Radiator fan control
7-red/blk-A/T Pressure control solenoid valve A
8-red/wht-Engine Coolant sensor
9-blu/blk-VTEC Oil pressure switch VTEC ONLY
10-wht/blu-Alternator L Signal
13-wht/red-Alternator FR Signal
14-blu/red-EGR Valve VTEC ONLY
15-grn/yel-VTEC Solenoid valve
16-blk/red-A/T Pressure control solenoid valve B
17-red/yel-Intake air temp sensor
18-wht/grn-Alternator control
21-yel/blu-EVAP Canistor purge valve

Connector E (31 pins)
1-grn/yel-Immobilizer fuel pump relay
2-wht/red-Secondary O2 Sensor EX Only
3-brn/yel-Logic ground
4-pnk-Sensor ground
5-yel/blu-Sensor voltage source
6-blk/wht-Secondary O2 sensor heater control EX Only
7-red/yel-PGM-FI main relay 1
9-yel/blk-Ignition input signal
12-blu/orn-Cruise control signal
13-wht/blu-Interlock control unit
14-lt grn-Fuel tank pressure sensor
15-grn/red-Electrical load detector
16-lt grn/blk-Power steering pressure switch
18-red-A/C Clutch
20-blu/red-EVAP bypass solenoid valve
21-lt grn/red-EVAP Canister shut valve
22-wht/blk-Brake pedal position switch
23-lt blu-K line
24-yel-Multiplex control unit comm line
26-blu-Engine speed pulse
27-red/blu-Immobilizer code
29-brn-Service check signal
30-red/wht-Write enable signal
31-grn/orn-MIL or check engine light enable

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

I saw that, but shouldn't it have two RPM wires? One going in from the bay and then one going out to the gauge cluster? I'm trying to trace the one in the bay down to see where it goes and where it actually ties to pull the signal.

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Buh bye.

WilmncChris

iTrader: (1)

Well here is what i would do..take the pcs harness and check all the wires to make sure you are getting a signal. Do a Ohms check on all of the wires in the harness.

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Buh bye.

WilmncChris

iTrader: (1)

Holly **** you have got a mess on your hands