threeoten

I loaded the suspension with the vehicles weight by jacking up under the LCA, then torqued the castle nut to its lowest spec (43ftlb) and the cotter pin hole is not lining up with the castle nut, nut went past the hole. The original castle nut is taller than the new one and would line it up just perfect. Should I use a washer + the new nut or can I just reuse the old one (it looks just fine)? Also is the boot over compressed?

mikey1

the suspension does not need to be loaded when tightening that bolt,

you torque it to the minimum torque value, if the hole does not line up then you TIGHTEN the nut more until the next hole lines up, you never loosen it to make to hole line up,

then you insert the cotter pin

and no, you should not use a washer

threeoten

Honda manual says it does need to be loaded in 'Lower Arm Removal' section. So I did.

I used the old castle nut for now, I'll pick up a couple new OEM nuts from the dealership. Just wondering if the boot looks too crushed?

ezone

The boot will squish and wrinkle, thats fine.

RIPSAW

Appears the taper was a few thousands small but you say new nut is shorter. Obvious not OEM part that I would hope is only problem. I would look very close for any cracks in arm... I would use the old nut that is long enough if it looked in good condition. If it's OEM and not rusted, it probably better quality then the replacement. You are not going to find a proper grade 8 washer unless you go to a McMaster and spec a Mil. Spec. washer but they do not sell a few.. You could always drill another carter hole.

drhawkinz

i think he's saying the nut is higher than the hole so when the pin is in it doesn't sit in between the castles.

mine was the same way. I put the pin in so that the loop stood up into the gap and then bent the other side so one part wrapped around under the nut and the other just sticks straight up in the air. If the nut does start coming loose it's not going to make it very far.

ezone

The interference fit between the two tapered parts (ball joint stud and the hole it fits through) is what locks them together after proper tightening of the nut. Once this is achieved, you could remove the nut and throw it away and probably never have it come apart unless you smack some incredible pothole or curb.
Kids, don't try that at home.


IF I were forced to use the new (too short) castle nut supplied with the ball joint, I'd tighten the nut then shove a cotter pin through the hole like drhawkinz described, just so in the off chance the nut were to ever back off on its own, it can't fall off.

IF the old castle nut fits a lot better, use that sucker instead. I would just use it, I wouldn't bother trying to purchase new unless there's some sort of damage that makes it unusable.






The only time I remember ever seeing one of those nuts backed off was when someone at a bodyshop didn't tighten the dang thing in the first place. The cotter pin was the only thing that prevented a huge disaster in that case.

RIPSAW

mikey had his inney and outtys confused.. I know I would be very concerned in that terrible looking crack in threeoten's first picture in post one. I would probably be replacing more then the balljoint.

mikey1

was going to say the same thing

ezone

I figured that was the sheetmetal of the LCA mashed up from beating on it to get the joint to pop free.

threeoten

It looks cracked in the photo, but it's just the way it was welded actually. It's totally solid.

But yeah, I just threw the old nuts on there and they line up fine.

XXWoodmanXX

To be honest, the 'eyelet' and legs of the cotter pin will hold it just fine, where the castle nut sits now. As a precautionary, just be sure and bend the legs up, not down.