krudmuphin

iTrader: (1)

Cheapest, yet good quality coilovers available are Ground Controls (which require you to buy shocks seperately) People recommend Tockico HP Blues or Koni Yellows.
Other options are Skunk2 (recommended by some, not me personally) and TEIN's entry level coilovers like the Basic or Street Basis.

All of these options run about $700.
You will need to get an alignment after installation too which is $50-$150 depending on the place.

My setup checks out like this:
TEIN Street Basis Coilovers - $715
Ingalls Rear Camber Kit (used) - $40
Installation - FREE, did it myself
Alignment - $175 (I got way ripped off...)
TOTAL: $930

And that's just an entry-level setup.

lowlife9

i got an idea how about you save some more money and then buy something better ???

SSMCivicCoupe

iTrader: (2)

Im going to be doing the work all myself. My current set up is Tein S techs on stock shocks. Been running that setup for about 3 months and I just want to go lower.

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

sell the springs, put it toward the $700 budget and get coilovers...


you should have saved your money and did it RIGHT the first time huh? this is what we are all trying to tell you.

if you get cheapy-shitty coilovers (aka rokkor) you will be disappointed to only replace your suspension AGAIN.

so save up those monies and buy somethign worth while.

SSMCivicCoupe

iTrader: (2)

What do you guys think of Nuespeed springs on tokico blues? Drop is about 2.25 inches according to their website.

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

your making the same mistake again. you will be dropped but you wont be able to adjust it to your liking.

if you buy springs, you will ALWAYS have a bigger gap in the front than you do in the rear (a lil less with the neuspeed)

example:




you'll see that and have OCD and regret not having coilovers where you can adjust every milimeter of a drop

like this:

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

tokico blues are only capable of handling a drop to about 1.5" before they blow out. they are made more of a mild drop not 2+ inch. the only strut that is truly made to handle a 2+ inch drop are koni yellows.

ive ran a 4+ inch drop on my car for 40k and they are still perfectly fine.

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

in case you didnt think i was serious about the 4+ inches

SSMCivicCoupe

iTrader: (2)

So what would be a good option then? Koni yellows with Ground controls?
btw what are you on currently?

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

SM in the username - is it from autoX?
also, we assuming you have a 7th gen, correct?

about RK/RC: you might find some good reviews on the rokkor/raceland, but then they are cheap and designed for sale volume, so quality control of theirs means some will come ok, some simply... will not.
lucky's game, yer life, so you get what you pays. just remember that the guy driving next to you did not choose to cheap out on suspension componenets, so be sure to swerve from them if they break and you need to go off-road.

now, if you into autoX as username suggests, yer not gonna be top dog in that setup... save for better.

listen to sl33py, he did his homework and listened too and reads a lot (from what i know )

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

heres a better shot of the even drop

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

any coilover that isnt race land, rokkor, d2, ksport

im dropped on GC and koni yellows. they are really amazing and run with the suspension that are a couple grand (like KW v3). they arnt exactly a cheap option. the koni yellows will run you $700 alone. GC will run you $350. they are also much much more complicated and harder to install than regular coilovers.

you can get tein basis for under a grand...

the acceptable, good, low-cost coilovers are tein basis or progress (there are more)

the basic coilovers are height adjustable, but are not dampening adjustable (soft to firm)


the higher end coilovers are KW v3, GC/yellow, tein superstreet or tein flex...etc

all these height adjustable and dampener adjustable.

lowlife9

yeah supply and demand shot the price of progress coil overs up like crazy. when i bought mine two years ago they were under a grand now there over $1,400.

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

that and progress has made better progress #wordplay with their suspension like more accurate valving for individual springs rates for different cars...etc

krudmuphin

iTrader: (1)

I hear nothing but positive about progress, but I'm more than happy with my TEINs.
And really, if you're just using your car for daily driving, you won't really need the adjustable damping. They're already pretty soft and set up for urban roads.

SSMCivicCoupe

iTrader: (2)

I found some skunk2 Pro S coilovers locally for 500 but they are for the rsx. Will they fit our civics?

lowlife9

i believe so but the rsx is alot heavier so you will have worse ride quality and i believe you also need rsx tie rod ends.

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

Only if you have a 03-05 civic plus you need rsx tie rods

lowlife9

i wonder if you can use the ksport adapters if you have 14mm crash bolts ???

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

Not sure of seriousness since you hate ksport

But yes you Couls use them

SSMCivicCoupe

iTrader: (2)

It's so hard to decide on which coilovers to get. I heard that when I do get coilovers I need to use my stock top hats? Is that true?

lowlife9

yes i don't like ksport but considering the adapter is just a little piece of metal i don't see a problem with is also if they did fail you would still be able to maintain control of the vehicle. some kits come with top hats some don't its not really a big deal i would actually prefer to use stock top hats anyway as far as fitment is concerned.

SSMCivicCoupe

iTrader: (2)

Is that same for the rear? Also when ever I turn Left or Right there is some kind of popping noise from the front. Could it be the bearings that go under the top hat? Because I remember that when I was putting my S Techs on that bearings flew everywhere when I removed the top hat.

krudmuphin

iTrader: (1)

Kits vary with top hats depending on the brand. Front and rear are slightly different. On mine, all struts use the stock top hats.

That popping noise you here is coil binding and it's a very common problem because our Civics have MacPherson Struts in front which rotates the entire strut as you steer the car. The popping is the spring resisting that turning motion and snapping around in the spring seat. It's not a harmful problem, but it can be annoying.

The remedy is to lubricate between the spring and the spring seats, and between any bearings and plates you have in your strut assembly. A good lube will last about 8 months. If you want the problem gone for a long time, you can try adding thrust bearings to your strut assembly.

SSMCivicCoupe

iTrader: (2)

I noticed that the popping only happens when I'm at a slop but during normal driving it's fine, so I don't think it's the coil binding because wouldn't it make that noise every time I made a turn?


Also another question about camber kits is that does the alignment shop adjust the camber when I take it in for an alignment or would I have to do it myself?

krudmuphin

iTrader: (1)

No, it is most definitely coil binding. It happens at very low speed (especially turning the wheel at a dead stop!) and sometimes when turning sharply on a sloped surface. It doesn't happen above a certain speed. There is a lot more stress keeping the spring from rotating when the car is sitting almost still.

An alignment shop will adjust the camber for you, but you have to let them know that you have adjustable arms and specify the degree of camber you want. If you don't choose a number, they'll set it to 0 degrees.

I'm at -1 all around which is helpful for fender clearance, but it makes the steering have sharper turn-in and it catches ruts in the road more easily. I learned from this mistake and I only recommend negative camber in the rear and leave the fronts at 0.

SSMCivicCoupe

iTrader: (2)

Whats a good number to set my rear camber at?

How long should I wait to get an alignment after I get my coilovers on?
I really appreciate you answering my noobish questions.

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

No problem. We ate here to help and steer you in the right direction.

As for camber, you can run up to -3 degrees before you really wear out your tires unevenly.

I run a -2 in front and -1 in rear.

However, many shops will not align it to a specific spec you want. They will do oem specs which is 0 camber all around (or as clOse to zero as possible)


What I would do is adjust your height to your desired height. Drive on it for a few days (like 30 ish miles) to let them settle in. If you like the stance/even-ness of the new look, go get it aligned.


Since you have coilovers it might be a good idea to invest in a place that offers lifetime alignment (ie Firestone). I routinely adjust my coilovers up and down (especially in the winter when I raise up my car to for snow chains on). I also drive me car pretty hard so it does mess up the alignment faster.

SSMCivicCoupe

iTrader: (2)

Yea I was thinking of -2 or -1 for the rear but if they dont accept the specific spec I want will it be ok if set it as 0. Would that cause uneven wear on my tires?


The last time I went to firestone I asked them about their alignment and they told me that they have a one time alignment for like $80 and then they have the Lifetime Alignment for $120 or $140 I forget but I asked them if they could do lowered vehicles they said it depends on how low the car is and that he would have to look at the car before he can give me offer me their Lifetime alignment. Is it true that they cant give me lifetime if im lowered?

krudmuphin

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure about the lifetime alignment deal, you'll just have to meet with a Firestone representative in person and have them examine the car.

Tire wear with negative camber is not really noticeable, nor is it very harmful. But if your toe or caster is misaligned, that would cause more severe wear problems. A good alignment shop will make sure those are both in check.

With negative camber, the inside edges will still wear faster. Unless you like to drive hard and corner hard, in which case, negative camber might actually make your tires wear more evenly.