02whiteem2

Hey all. Just wanted to see what you guys think of my setup before i go buy it. I was gonna get Blues/Sportlines. I don't do any autoX and its just for a DD which i drive alot. On stock ex steelies right now and prolly gonna get some 16's when taxes come in. I need new LCA's so i was gonna get em off of Dezod as well as the ingalls Camber kits (F+R). My front sway and endlinks are loose but i was gonna just have my mechanic tell me what needs to be fixed when i take it in. I been looking thru the pics posts but most of them don't work/ don't have my setup. Any tips would be appreciated as i would like to buy my parts this weekend.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

sounds good to me. cant go wrong with eibach springs.

02whiteem2

also should i spend sone extra money on the ES bushings for my LCA's or just stick with the ingalls?

MindBomber

The ES bushings were well worth it for me, they made a significant handling improvement for the relatively low cost. They do squeak a bit more and stiffen up the ride, so that's something to be considered.

I'd recommend a Megan camber kit, lots of us have used them and have good things to say about them. The advantage is that they're aluminium, whereas ingalls is steal and will rust.

02whiteem2

where did u pick up the megan camber kit?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

the ES bushings on the lca felt just like stock to me as far as stiffness, but they are noisy in the winter if you go over bumps and take hard corners. cant beat it for a lifetime part tho. hi speed turning response is better too.

02whiteem2

Yeah the fact they they will last is why i wanna switch them. My current ones are gone. I hear clunking whenever i turn or go over bumps. My LCA's look rusted so i figure i should change them out too before they snap. So where would i find the Megan camber kit and how much does it run?

Speed9117

iTrader: (1)

That's the exact same setup I have... Sportlines, Blues, and ES bushings and I love it. I can post a pic of my setup if you want.

Speed9117

iTrader: (1)

Check out this thread for a pic of my car with this setup.

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/4...kico-blue.html

02whiteem2

Looks good Speed 9117. What camber kit are you running on your setup? And how long have you had that setup? I am hoping my blues will last a good while. My stockers are still going strong but are leaking and its been almost 10 yrs almost 5 yrs with me. Do you guys reccomend changing anything else? like tie rod ends or ball joints or etc..? I got 135k on the vic and all parts are original.

MindBomber

Unless there's extremely heavy rust pitting on the lcas, they aren't going to snap, I've never even heard of that happening on one of our cars before. I'd personally save a bit of money and just put a coat of rust paint on them.

Speed9117

iTrader: (1)

I'm running an SPC rear camber kit. I opted to not do the front, but kinda wish I had. I have very very very very slight camber wear. almost nothing serious but I might as well have done it at the same time.

Anyway, I've had the setup for a little over a year and everything looks great still

The only other thing I've heard of people replacing are the ball joints. Mine were find so I haven't swapped them out yet, but if you have the money the moog ones are $50 each and you'll save yourself an alignment by doing it at the same time.

02whiteem2

Well to be honest the only reason the LCA's are on my list is because when i had my headgasket done, the shop gave me a write up on what needed to be done with the suspension. the LCA bushings were all shot (explains the clunking sound) They are probably still good so should i just change the bushings?

Speed9117

iTrader: (1)

Yeah you don't really need to change the ball joints unless they are cracked and loose so you should be good just doing the LCA bushings...

Although if you're having a shop do it you would probably save big on labor to do it all at once. It just depends what you want to do and the condition of the ball joints.

02whiteem2

Yeah labor is a bitch so id like the change all that i can while i'm in there. Ill prolly just change the bushings. Ill look at my LCA's again when the rain stops and see how rusty they are. Besides the ball joints what else might give out due to the stress of being lowered?

Speed9117

iTrader: (1)

maybe sway bar end links and tie rod ends? those are the only things I can really think of that get replaced a lot, but I've been lowered a year and haven't had any problems with either. And that's even after beating on the tie rod ends 3 or 4 times while I was working on my suspension.

So on another note there are a bunch of great DIYs on spring/strut installs and on the LCA bushings if you felt ambitious and wanted to tackle it yourself. This was the exact project that got me going. Les scwhab wanted some obscene amount for labor and with the help of the DIY a buddy and me took a day and did it ourselves. It was the first major project for both of us. If you have the time and space I'd say go for it!

Here's the DIY for the springs

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/4...info-pics.html

The only thing you would have to pay for labor wise at that point is to have a shop press the bushings which should be under $100.

02whiteem2

I would attempt it but i don't have all the tools, the time ( i work 48 hrs a week and have school full time), or the friends (who know what they are doing) to help. I talked to my mechanic and he said 350 to install everything including alignment so thats not too bad. So my list has come down to:

Tokico Blues
Eiback Sportlines
ES LCA Bushings
ES front Sway Bar Bushings ( Mechanic said they are going. anyone know the Stock size or if i should upgrade?)
Megan Racing Rear Camber Kit
Ingalls Front Camber kit
Corsport Endlinks (mechanic said they are going)

As far as ball joints and tie rod ends, ill talk to my mechanic on how they look.

If this all looks good i'm gonna buy it all tomorrow. Thanks for all the help by the way.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

stick with MOOG endlinks front and rear. oem and any aftermarket (metal racing style) links will snap in no time on a lowered car. prolly wont be able to find the front es sway bushings in your size. there are like 5 different sizes depending on your year and model of civic. the old bushing should have a number in it so take it off and check to be sure. i would just put an oem on as they work well enough. usually a front camber kit is not needed but its good to have just in case.

02whiteem2

Sorry for all the questions but you guys are really helpful. Where do i find the MOOG endlinks? I haven't seen them online. And as far as my loose sway should i just take it to my mechanic and have him fix it as he sees fit since there is no real upgrade necessary?

MindBomber

MOOG endlinks are good quality for a stock sway bar, but aftermarket endlinks for upgraded sway bars would certainly not snap just because a car is lowered. There's a reason why a set of spherical endlinks are $300-400 dollars.

Go to energysuspensionparts.com for your MOOG and ES parts, I've ordered from them multiple times and the pricing and service is nothing less than outstanding. It wouldn't hurt to consider ordering ES motor mount inserts as well. The rear is a bitch and it would be expensive and time consuming to install, but the front takes 10 minutes and the bushing is very prone to failure and beginning to clunk. (Honda screwed up big time all our bushings...)

No upgrade is necessary on the front sway, many people actually remove it entirely to increase slope and thereby traction through hard cornering, others downgrade to smaller 03-05 sway bars for the same reason. With tokicos/eibachs the stock size front should work well.

Don't feel pressured to change out the ball joints now, you'll save a bit on labour but nothing to significant since the bulk of the work is pressing the new ball joints into the knuckle. It would probably only take a mechanic an hour to change both of them if they need to be done in the future.

02whiteem2

I've searched the site u posted and don't see the endlinks. Anywhere else they might be located?

MindBomber

hmm they used to carry them, hopefully Gear can chime in..

Speed9117

iTrader: (1)

You might try some local parts stores. My local Oreilly auto parts carries Moog parts. They might be able to help you out.

Sounds like you have a pretty good plan there

I'm glad I could actually help and contribute. I was in the same position a year ago and I'm glad I've learned enough to help someone else do it. haha.

rep is a good way to say thanks haha

02whiteem2

i'll look around when i get a chance. But if i don't find it what should i do.

Speed9117 U've ben repped

EDIT:: Found them on the oreilly website so i can get them shipped up here since none of the places by me have them. Thanks for the tip Speed 9117!!!!

MindBomber

The endlinks Dezod assembles are great quality, inexpensive too.

http://www.dezod.com/pd_dezod_motors..._spec_rear.cfm

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

i snapped a set of aftermarket links (from dezod actually, but they are all basically the same) in less than a year with the stock bar. twisted in half and the bar was hanging by the bushings. my moog links have been fine over a year and are twice as thick as stock. i think the aftermarket all metal endlinks that are supposedly upgrades are not made very well at all. just my experience. i got the moog parts special ordered at kragen auto parts local. advance auto in east coast can get them too.

MindBomber

The dezod ones I linked to above?
Interesting, all the reviews I read were good.

When I think aftermarket endlinks I don't think the slightly above OE grade ones like Dezods; more like Function 7, ASR, Hotchkis, Whiteline, Perin. Lots of the highest grade endlinks aren't even adjustable to eliminate the weak point on track cars, they're just a solid chunk of metal.

like this, try breaking that haha

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

yup the dezod ones. if i can hook up my external drive i will try and find the old pic i took. they look like superman grabbed both sides and twisted them apart lol.

okay, now that last pic you posted is a real endlink lol. assuming the metal is solid and not hollow i hope.