Front Upper Strut bolt question (for all diy'ers)
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Rep Power: 350 Front Upper Strut bolt question (for all diy'ers)
Well, the upper mounts on my b&gs have **** the bed. One nut/bolt on either side in the front just spins and I cant break the nut off of the tower to remove them.
Is there a way to somehow hold the bolt from the underside so I can take the nut off? I forgot completely what the stock upper mounts look like.. Anyone? Bueller...
Is there a way to somehow hold the bolt from the underside so I can take the nut off? I forgot completely what the stock upper mounts look like.. Anyone? Bueller...
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Rep Power: 257 Take it to a shop. I had the same problem when I wanted to change strut bar from a cheapo ebay bar to neuspeed strut bar. The bolt was stripped so I first tried to break it off and rethread it but we couldn't. I took it to shop and they had to take out the whole strut assembly from the bottom to remove it. New top mounts cost me like 100 bucks.
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Rep Power: 0 I'll take a look at my B&Gs when I get home tonight. I know everytime we've run across this problem at our shop, we've realized that vice giprs/ large channel lock pliers can be your best friend...
And so can the hammer and torch.
And so can the hammer and torch.
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Rep Power: 350 thanks for the input but im going to take them off anyway to send the front struts to be rebuilt.
to clarify, which is hard to explain, can I remove the bolts by jacking the car up and working from the bottom up on them? Is there a way to get channel locks around the bolt to hold it in place while I work the nut from the top?
thanks all.
to clarify, which is hard to explain, can I remove the bolts by jacking the car up and working from the bottom up on them? Is there a way to get channel locks around the bolt to hold it in place while I work the nut from the top?
thanks all.
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Rep Power: 0 just checked out the bottom of the upper mount. doesn't look like there's gonna be a way to hold if from the bottom, unless you use the slit/screwdriver method and try to notch the bolt head with a dremel or something and then use a screwdriver from underneath.
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Rep Power: 290 OK, this is just what I'de try. Put a slit it the top of the bolt (dremel-whatever), put the socket on the nut with a screwdriver thru the center hole. A screwdriver with a nut section near handle (snap-on) will help as will a socket with a "nut" section on top. Otherwise visegrips!
Good luck
Getto, but works!
Remove the other nuts and put a pickel-bar (ball joint remover) or screwdrivers under the open area, aka pry up on the top while loosening. An air wrench really helps!
Good luck
Getto, but works!
Remove the other nuts and put a pickel-bar (ball joint remover) or screwdrivers under the open area, aka pry up on the top while loosening. An air wrench really helps!
Last edited by pon55; 10-27-2006 at 05:59 PM.
#16
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Rep Power: 350 thanks pon. the second one may work if i can get enough force on the bolt. btw both sides have a stripped bolt....f*uckkkk
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Rep Power: 350 well car is to low to take to a shop for one thing lol. no one can get it up on the forks.
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Rep Power: 0 Blou is there anyway you can post a pic of the top and bottom side of the stud? I havent worked on mine in a long time and dont remember exactly what it looks like. I'd go look but im at work.
#22
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Rep Power: 350 wish i could man, its a damn process to jack up my car, thats why i am asking. i hopefully will jack it up this weekend...
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Rep Power: 0 Yeah I know what you mean man. Mines lowered on the eibach sportlines, which isnt too bad. I still have to lay two 2x6"s down roll back up on top of the first one and then the second and then I can fit my jack under it. I try to do it as little as possible.
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