EternalVTEC

iTrader: (3)

i believe this is partially incorrect. buy drilling the holes and slotting the rotors, you are DEcreasing the surface area, thus requiring a LARGER rotor to achieve the same fade resistance of stock, more material = more heat the rotor can soak up = better fade resistance

in effect, a "Big Brake Kit" may have little to no more surface area than stock. the benefits of the drilled holes are marginal and merely create points for stress cracks to occur, and the slots arent really needed because a decent set of new pads doesnt "gas-out" like older pads did, thus making the slotting unnecessary.

this is a good DIY dont get me wong, but there are better rotor choices out there(brembo blanks, etc.)

just trying to inform people

Grey

iTrader: (61)

You're kinda repeating what the ads for non-drilled rotors say. What you're saying makes sense, but there are a ton of factors to consider. The amount of frictional force does not decrease with surface area; kinda a law of physics. You have a point with the more mass = more heat soaking capability. Although it's how hot the rotor gets that's most important. Less mass = more hot, but less mass due to holes = less hot. There's an optimum point here. One that balances cooling through surface area and mass.

tfnaaf

iTrader: (2)

^^^ pretty much yes, but may not have to refill after each wheel. Usually you can do both backs then check fluid level then both fronts and top it off at the end. But this all varries with how many times you have to bleed each wheel.

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

what are the sizes for the 4 bolts and the bleeder screws so I know what size wrenches to have?

dubz01si

what the hell do you do when your phillp screw is stripped the F-ing thing just stiped on my with the right size phillip F\/ck

tfnaaf

iTrader: (2)

use a drill bit and just drill out the head of the screw then the rotor will come off. then you can usually easily remove the stub of the screw after the rotor is off. Ive done it MANY times

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

What you can also do is put the wrench on the nut and use a hammer and hit the wrench untill the nut comes loose. I do this with changing my oil.

Fred

Taking Grey's advice in his DIY on brakes, I bought an impact screw driver. you hit it with a hammer. The good news was that I got the two screws out of the rotor BUT I coudn't get the rotor off the hub. Any ideas?

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

have you tried using a mallet to hit the rotor?

tfnaaf

iTrader: (2)

penetrating oil, and TAP the face ( in between the wheel studs ) LIGHTLY. DONT hit the surface that the pads ride on. Worse case use a LARGE generic gear puller and grab the out side of the rotor with the hooks tighten it sligtly and then tap on rotor again. Rinse and repeat.........

hankscorpio

iTrader: (1)

Grey, i just put on some aem rotors and now i think i put them on the wrong way. My rotors are in like yours are in the picture but I just want to make sure that the picture is the old one and not the updated one. I don't have a picture of mine, but again they look like yours in the picture. Mine are only slotted though and heres a rough diagram of what the drivers side looks like.

|````(```|
|````o```| Caliper Here
|,,,,,,),,,,,|

let the ( represent the 'rough' direction of the slots.
( for some reason extra spaces are taken out so i had to put in `'s instead)

Don't laugh at my diagram, but it just seems like this way is the way that would wear the pad the least since its the middle of the curve thats hitting the pad first as opposed to the ends. Hope this made sense.

Grey

iTrader: (61)

Yep, the way they are in the picture is the way they're not supposed to be. Hehe... I should post an updated pic, huh?

hankscorpio

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the help.

I was searching through the members rides pics for other peoples install and every picture i saw, people had there rotors in the wrong way except for one.

This was the only picture i could find of them in the correct direction

Grey

iTrader: (61)

Well... It's a weird thing actually. The direction you should have them in is different from vendor to vendor. I'm following Brembo's instructions for their own make of cross-drilled rotors (not the ones I bought), so I don't know... I guess you should read up on the matter and pick a direction that sounds rational.

ChunkyMonkey

i just need to change my brake pads...are all these steps neccessary? thanx in advance...piece

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

no, just remove your bottom bolt from your caliper and swing the caliper up, remove the pads, install the new ones, push back in your piston, and swing the caliper back down and put the bolt back on and your finished.

ChunkyMonkey

thanks...i didn't want to do all that stuff just to change my pads...

dru106

iTrader: (13)

Oh man!! If you cant do that dont mod your car

rzc

Great DIY... just did mine over the weekend only took me less than an hour and a half. I ended up using Brembo "blanks". Great DIY sure saved me lots of headaches!

Thanks again!
RC

woodee

Awesome DIY. Took me about 2 hours thanks!!!

HoldDaMayo

Took me about an hour and a half, I did it with Brembo Blanks and Hawk HPS pads and WOWOWOW!!! I love the new braking feel, I drive with alot more confidence... i feel with this combination I can get everything out of my 205/40/17's...

I give this DIY a 10!

Shlomo

iTrader: (1)

i've got some brembro blanks and axxis pads on the way so i'll be putting them on in a week or two. i got one question though, aren't you supposed to clean off the rotors before installing them? i heard that they are shipped with a sealent type coating for protection. Is this true? and if so what do you clean it off w/? Thanks

MIT

iTrader: (10)

i just installed the brembo blank and aem pads......yeh more confidence when doin hard stop.......

sealent type coating on rotor? i didnt clean mine....what' up with that ......

Shlomo

iTrader: (1)

i just remember hearing something about cleaning off the coating before use. Your set up is ok though?

karlozc2003

iTrader: (13)

I was tolled to clean of the rotors before installing them because it has some type of anti rust coat. BTW i also have the blank Brembo w/axxis pads

Shlomo

iTrader: (1)

so did you just clean them with a brake cleaner, or degreaser, or what?

CrazyCakes

iTrader: (2)

spray them off with brake clean and you'll be fine. some rotors come with a gold coating on them those you need to wash with soap and water before install, but for brembos just spray them down good with cleaner.

Shlomo

iTrader: (1)

cool thanks for the help

Shlomo

iTrader: (1)

yeah, i just got them in today (brembro blanks and pbr ultimates) and on the box it says to wash the blanks w/ brake cleaner. Also, the rotors weigh 11.5lbs each. i/ve got to weigh the stock ones once the come off.

XxJDMCivicxX

iTrader: (1)

Just to help out ppl incase grey didn't mention it if those screws don't come out of the rotor you can buy a center punch and it i'll do the trick. It's very very very useful for cars that are a bit older than our civics or for ppl that don't live in 1 season climates.

I have yet to come into contact w/ a brake rotor that you actually had to clean w/ soap I have used brake cleaner on almost all the different brakes installed even big brake kits.