View Poll Results: Will polishing the inside of an intake manifold improve performance?
Yes, it will improve performance
0
0%
No, it won’t do anything at all
3
100.00%
No, it will reduce performance
0
0%
Voters: 3. You may not vote on this poll
D17VTECPOWER threads consolidated - how a member should not behave
11-06-2018
#2192
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
11-06-2018
#2194
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Any problems with an ELD bypass?
Oooh now everything depends on what your (wrong) PCM is programmed for. Maybe Japan didn't have ELD or would not recognize faults with ELD, like Canada didn't have ELD equipped at all on some cars. Same for EGR, maybe whatever car your PCM is for was not equipped with EGR.
11-06-2018
#2195
Re: Any problems with an ELD bypass?
Oooh now everything depends on what your (wrong) PCM is programmed for. Maybe Japan didn't have ELD or would not recognize faults with ELD, like Canada didn't have ELD equipped at all on some cars. Same for EGR, maybe whatever car your PCM is for was not equipped with EGR.
11-06-2018
#2196
Registered!!
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Forest Park, IL
Age: 43
Posts: 296
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 77 
Re: Any problems with an ELD bypass?
MY alternator will approach 20 volts at redline full fielded. You should minimum add something like a vr 125 voltage regulator so you can drive 30 minutes at highway rpm without frying things.
Is your battery larger than oem? Is your alternator goodoodand pulled correctly? lt sounds like you're creating band-aid fixes for problems you already somehow created.
Is your battery larger than oem? Is your alternator goodoodand pulled correctly? lt sounds like you're creating band-aid fixes for problems you already somehow created.
11-06-2018
#2197
Re: Any problems with an ELD bypass?
MY alternator will approach 20 volts at redline full fielded. You should minimum add something like a vr 125 voltage regulator so you can drive 30 minutes at highway rpm without frying things.
Is your battery larger than oem? Is your alternator goodoodand pulled correctly? lt sounds like you're creating band-aid fixes for problems you already somehow created.
Is your battery larger than oem? Is your alternator goodoodand pulled correctly? lt sounds like you're creating band-aid fixes for problems you already somehow created.
11-06-2018
#2199
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Any problems with an ELD bypass?
Thanks. I know that the car the PCM is from had EGR because the harness that the PCM came with had an EGR plug. I also presume that the car it’s from has an ELD because with the ELD plugged in, the alternator sometimes goes into low charge mode under light load like it did with the US PCM. But with the ELD unplugged, the alternator always stays in high charge mode. So the PCM at least recognizes the ELD input. My guess is that due to different emissions regulations, JDM PCMs aren’t programmed to recognize some faults, like ELD or EGR problems.
11-06-2018
#2200
Re: Any problems with an ELD bypass?
I never full fielded my alternator, so I don’t know how many volts it would produce when full fielded. However, the maximum voltage that it’ll produce with the ELD unplugged is 14.5 volts, which is completely safe. That’s actually no higher than the maximum voltage it’ll produce with the ELD plugged in.
Last edited by D17VTECPOWER; 11-06-2018 at 12:32 PM.
11-06-2018
#2201
Re: Any problems with an ELD bypass?
Cars sold in other markets (countries) only have to meet regulations for the markets they are sold in. For all I know some markets don't follow the same OBD2 standardization we are used to seeing on cars in the US, so they don't even have the usual plug we would expect here.
Running without ELD is nothing like full fielding. He won't really hurt anything.
Running without ELD is nothing like full fielding. He won't really hurt anything.
11-06-2018
#2202
"Marge, anyone could miss Canada! All tucked away down there."
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Barrie, ON Canada
Posts: 8,991
Received 1,122 Likes
on
937 Posts
Rep Power: 190 
Re: Any problems with an ELD bypass?
I never full fielded my alternator, so I don’t know how many volts it would produce when full fielded. However, the maximum voltage that it’ll produce with the ELD unplugged is 14.5 volts, which is completely safe. That’s actually no higher than the maximum voltage it’ll produce with the ELD plugged in.
Last edited by Colin42; 11-08-2018 at 08:23 AM. Reason: emphasis
11-08-2018
#2203
Re: Any problems with an ELD bypass?
It does mess with how the alternator performs. With the ELD plugged in, the alternator goes into “low charge” mode under light loads, only charging at 12.5 volts. But with the ELD unplugged, the alternator charges at 14-14.4 volts constantly, regardless of load. I don’t see why this would be a problem, but I thought that I better double check.
11-09-2018
#2204
Re: Cheap sound system upgrade
Yes it would. However the question is: will it make enough of a difference for it to be worth it?
We're talking about less than 50 watts over less than a 10ft long piece of wire. If you were talking about 500 watts then you would definitely want to upgrade the speaker wire.
We're talking about less than 50 watts over less than a 10ft long piece of wire. If you were talking about 500 watts then you would definitely want to upgrade the speaker wire.
11-12-2018
#2206
Re: Cheap sound system upgrade
Another interesting benefit to upgrading the power and ground wires is that the radio runs cooler. When I’d crank the volume with the factory wires, the radio would get noticibly warm to the touch. But now that I upgraded the wires, the radio barely gets warm to the touch. Kind of weird, but I guess it makes sense since the radio obviously runs more efficiently when it’s not starved for power. More efficient operation means less waste heat.
11-12-2018
#2207
Do I need to replace my master cylinder?
So I just got done doing a drum to disc swap on my 05 Civic. I bought a conversion kit for $200 shipped to my door. I changed the proportioning valve, E brake cables, and obviously the spindle assemblies. But the person I bought the conversion kit from emailed me and told me that he suggests that I get a master cylinder from an EP3 Civic, or even better, an RSX-S for the brakes to work well. He said that those master cylinders make more pressure. Is that true? Thanks.
11-12-2018
#2208
The legs in the public bathroom stall
Re: Do I need to replace my master cylinder?
I will first assume that you are driving an LX with no ABS. What are the bore sizes of the various master cylinders? Are they the same. The RSX-S MC will have been used exclusively with ABS/VSA. It is a split diagonal hydraulic system which means that the front/rear halves of the master have the same pressures unlike old American RWD stuff. If the bore sizes are the same then you will gain absolutely nothing with a swap. Even if the bore sizes are different you likely won't ever notice a difference. Smaller/larger bores affect the amount of effort required to press the pedal the same distance. But since you are without question driving a power brake vehicle, once again you likely won't ever notice a difference.
I thought I heard you were buying a 08 SI so that all the R&D work would already be done and engineered for you.
I thought I heard you were buying a 08 SI so that all the R&D work would already be done and engineered for you.
11-12-2018
#2209
Re: Do I need to replace my master cylinder?
I will first assume that you are driving an LX with no ABS. What are the bore sizes of the various master cylinders? Are they the same. The RSX-S MC will have been used exclusively with ABS/VSA. It is a split diagonal hydraulic system which means that the front/rear halves of the master have the same pressures unlike old American RWD stuff. If the bore sizes are the same then you will gain absolutely nothing with a swap. Even if the bore sizes are different you likely won't ever notice a difference. Smaller/larger bores affect the amount of effort required to press the pedal the same distance. But since you are without question driving a power brake vehicle, once again you likely won't ever notice a difference.
I thought I heard you were buying a 08 SI so that all the R&D work would already be done and engineered for you.
I thought I heard you were buying a 08 SI so that all the R&D work would already be done and engineered for you.
11-13-2018
#2210
The legs in the public bathroom stall
Re: Do I need to replace my master cylinder?
When people performed rear disc conversions on old school RWD cars they needed more pressure available to the rear than was supplied by the factory sized MC.
People who researched and studied these old systems had to make choices for pedal feel. Did they want more pedal travel and a softer pedal, did they want rock hard pedal? You have power brakes so you won't notice a difference the way an old manual brakes system car owner would.
You also have no ABS, ABS will go a very long way to mask proportioning issues. If you get the bias off then the ABS just releases and applies pressure as needed to prevent wheel slip.
If you have the correct proportioning valve for the calipers you are installing it will likely be perfectly fine. If you are truly concerned about it then you need to do research. Did into the catalogs and service information to find the master cylinder bore sizes. If the bore sizes are actually different (which I doubt) then you might gain slightly but likely won't feel a difference due to the power brake booster.
But the biggest question is why even convert to disc. The only reason I would change to rear disc on any honda was if it was part of a 5 lug conversion. Due you plan to build a rally/parking lot racer? There are factory engineers quoted on record that the only reason they ever put rear discs on something short of an race car was competitive pressure from the other auto makers. To say that again, they only went to rear disc because every else did too.
11-13-2018
#2211
Re: Do I need to replace my master cylinder?
Yes/no and probably not. Traditionally in the old days of rear disc brake conversions changing the master cylinder was a prerequisite. The reason for this was that RWD car used a front rear split on the hydraulic system with proportioning balance splits of somewhere in the neighborhood of 71%/29% with 71% biased to the front. Honda uses a diagonal split system with a 50/50 balance.
When people performed rear disc conversions on old school RWD cars they needed more pressure available to the rear than was supplied by the factory sized MC.
People who researched and studied these old systems had to make choices for pedal feel. Did they want more pedal travel and a softer pedal, did they want rock hard pedal? You have power brakes so you won't notice a difference the way an old manual brakes system car owner would.
You also have no ABS, ABS will go a very long way to mask proportioning issues. If you get the bias off then the ABS just releases and applies pressure as needed to prevent wheel slip.
If you have the correct proportioning valve for the calipers you are installing it will likely be perfectly fine. If you are truly concerned about it then you need to do research. Did into the catalogs and service information to find the master cylinder bore sizes. If the bore sizes are actually different (which I doubt) then you might gain slightly but likely won't feel a difference due to the power brake booster.
But the biggest question is why even convert to disc. The only reason I would change to rear disc on any honda was if it was part of a 5 lug conversion. Due you plan to build a rally/parking lot racer? There are factory engineers quoted on record that the only reason they ever put rear discs on something short of an race car was competitive pressure from the other auto makers. To say that again, they only went to rear disc because every else did too.
When people performed rear disc conversions on old school RWD cars they needed more pressure available to the rear than was supplied by the factory sized MC.
People who researched and studied these old systems had to make choices for pedal feel. Did they want more pedal travel and a softer pedal, did they want rock hard pedal? You have power brakes so you won't notice a difference the way an old manual brakes system car owner would.
You also have no ABS, ABS will go a very long way to mask proportioning issues. If you get the bias off then the ABS just releases and applies pressure as needed to prevent wheel slip.
If you have the correct proportioning valve for the calipers you are installing it will likely be perfectly fine. If you are truly concerned about it then you need to do research. Did into the catalogs and service information to find the master cylinder bore sizes. If the bore sizes are actually different (which I doubt) then you might gain slightly but likely won't feel a difference due to the power brake booster.
But the biggest question is why even convert to disc. The only reason I would change to rear disc on any honda was if it was part of a 5 lug conversion. Due you plan to build a rally/parking lot racer? There are factory engineers quoted on record that the only reason they ever put rear discs on something short of an race car was competitive pressure from the other auto makers. To say that again, they only went to rear disc because every else did too.
11-14-2018
#2212
The legs in the public bathroom stall
Re: Do I need to replace my master cylinder?
I can agree with replacing drums for visual effect. I have a 65 Plymouth project that I have had for 20 years and it is also in need of a total rear brake system. So I have done the same math, do I spend X number of dollars to retain drum brakes or do I just a little more and get a system that stops better and looks better. Of course since I converted that car to front disc more than a decade ago I have different bolt patterns front and rear. I pity anyone that tried to work on that car without me around. It still has the original wheel studs on the left rear wheel, which means that it has one wheel out of 4 with left handed lug nuts. How many people expect to deal with left handed lug nuts?
11-15-2018
#2213
Re: Do I need to replace my master cylinder?
I can agree with replacing drums for visual effect. I have a 65 Plymouth project that I have had for 20 years and it is also in need of a total rear brake system. So I have done the same math, do I spend X number of dollars to retain drum brakes or do I just a little more and get a system that stops better and looks better. Of course since I converted that car to front disc more than a decade ago I have different bolt patterns front and rear. I pity anyone that tried to work on that car without me around. It still has the original wheel studs on the left rear wheel, which means that it has one wheel out of 4 with left handed lug nuts. How many people expect to deal with left handed lug nuts?
11-15-2018
#2214
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Do I need to replace my master cylinder?
So should I have noticed an improvement when I converted to rear discs?
11-16-2018
#2216
Re: EPS conversion pro’s and con’s?
Great suggestion, thanks. So I took the belt off, and I think that the engine is a tiny bit more responsive without the belt on. However,it's also getting a lot cooler outside, so I can't say for sure that the performance improvement I think I'm feeling is entirely from taking the belt off the power steering pump.
11-18-2018
#2217
OF top 99.5% creator (Formerly of the Puffinblunts variety)
Re: EPS conversion pro’s and con’s?
You can always elect to go manual steering and develop some Popeye forearms through parallel parking and three-point turns..
11-23-2018
#2218
Trans slow to upshift
So I have a problem with my transmission. The trans seems slow to upshift from 2nd to 3rd gear at full throttle. So when I floor it on the highway, it downshifts to 2nd gear like it should. However, the trans is slow to upshift to 3rd gear. What I mean is that when the engine gets to redline, instead of upshifting to 3rd gear, the trans usually stays in 2nd gear too long, causing the engine to hit the rev limit for 1 or 2 seconds, then it shifts to 3rd gear and continues accelerating. Sometimes when it shifts to 3rd gear, the engine surges once or twice before it engages. The fluid level is good, there are no codes, and the TPS and MAP sensor is reading correctly. Any ideas? Thanks.
