Brake Failure
05-19-2018
#1
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Brake Failure
So long shot finding/joining/asking this forum as I see theres not much action in the 7th gen groups (understandably if we all have cars like mine who prefer living on jacks) but we are (a) handy and (b) on a ridiculously tight budget.
fast forward the the issue: car drove to work with brakes, left with none? No obvious fluid leaking, reservoir is still full, no air in the lines, pads and rotors arent beautiful but they definitely have some time left, calipers are functional. So we're kind of narrowed down to believing its the master cyl, the booster (but im to the impression the brakes would be locked on), or this little gem known as a proportioning valve (that in all my years of junkers I have never heard of until this very evening).
there is slightly more brake if the brakes are pumped when attempting to stop, but she goes right to the floor without. Also seems more willing to lock up rather quickly if the brakes are pumped, but just one front and occasionally one back tire. Im more inclined to believe its the master cyl as it seems to be fairly common and im distrustful of this mysterious proportioning valve, but the father-in-law is fairly certain its the valve. But from what knowledge the internet has provided it sounds like that valve should be leaking if its the issue?
So, long story short, knowing all this and being on a tight budget, which part would you be more inclined to swap first?
fast forward the the issue: car drove to work with brakes, left with none? No obvious fluid leaking, reservoir is still full, no air in the lines, pads and rotors arent beautiful but they definitely have some time left, calipers are functional. So we're kind of narrowed down to believing its the master cyl, the booster (but im to the impression the brakes would be locked on), or this little gem known as a proportioning valve (that in all my years of junkers I have never heard of until this very evening).
there is slightly more brake if the brakes are pumped when attempting to stop, but she goes right to the floor without. Also seems more willing to lock up rather quickly if the brakes are pumped, but just one front and occasionally one back tire. Im more inclined to believe its the master cyl as it seems to be fairly common and im distrustful of this mysterious proportioning valve, but the father-in-law is fairly certain its the valve. But from what knowledge the internet has provided it sounds like that valve should be leaking if its the issue?
So, long story short, knowing all this and being on a tight budget, which part would you be more inclined to swap first?
05-19-2018
#2
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Re: Brake Failure
If your not losing brake fluid. IE resivior is still full , your master cylinder lost a circuit and needs to be replaced/rebuilt.
Otherwise park the car somewhere clean, pump the brakes multiple times being sure to not run out of brake fluid and then look for the drips..
leaking rear brake cylinder will be hard to spot without taking apart the drum or losing a lot of brake fluid. Front one will drip onto ground in a hurry.
Otherwise park the car somewhere clean, pump the brakes multiple times being sure to not run out of brake fluid and then look for the drips..
leaking rear brake cylinder will be hard to spot without taking apart the drum or losing a lot of brake fluid. Front one will drip onto ground in a hurry.
05-19-2018
#3
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Re: Brake Failure
Some other info.
Your brakes are criss crossed redundant. Front left and rear right on one fluid circuit and front right and rear left on the other. That is deliberate for instancance exactly as your encountering, failure of one brake line / cylinder won’t cripple all 4.
Portioning valve keeps rear wheels from locking up since they have far less traction on the ground than the front.
Your brakes are criss crossed redundant. Front left and rear right on one fluid circuit and front right and rear left on the other. That is deliberate for instancance exactly as your encountering, failure of one brake line / cylinder won’t cripple all 4.
Portioning valve keeps rear wheels from locking up since they have far less traction on the ground than the front.
05-20-2018
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Okay so as of now the update is that the MC would not separate from the booster, so after hours of failed attempts we pulled it all out, and broke the booster, which is lovely. So now we've got a booster from scrap car, with the cyl still attached as of now. But we have to quit for the day, so im now wondering can we look forward to fitting the booster and cyl in together? So we dont have to bleed the cyl, or will we have to separate? Also, in the event that this one is ****, will a booster of a si work on my special ed? We were originally going to take one off an si but the whole booster looked different. But the si was in better shape lol
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